Metal buildings...yeah or nah???

[theblur98ss]

Just looking for some input on metal buildings. I was planning on building a 30x40 garage but a 40x60 metal building would come out cheaper. Looking for any feedback....good or bad from owners of these. The location will be in Pennsylvania and it will be heated somewhat and eventually have lift installed as well. Building will be mostly for wrenching on cars and ripping apart scrap metal.

 

[boiler7904]

My first thought is to check on zoning for your location if you are in a metropolitan area. A lot of towns will limit detached garage size based on one of two criteria:

1. Percentage of open space of total lot size.
2. Size of accessory building (garage / shop) in relation to main structure (house).

Either way, there will likely be setbacks, easements, building seperation distances, etc. that have to be maintained that also limit building size.

Another general limiting factor could be the building height. Different towns figure it differently. Some go to the ridge height. Some use the eave height. Some use the average of the two.

The last item to consider is neighborhood covenants that limit what materials can be used on the exterior of the building - metal buildings aren't exactly known to be the prettiest things in the world. Neighbors usually object to big ugly buildings being built next to them and do everything in their power to hinder the owner from his right to build on his lot.

On the other hand, if you live on acreage in the middle of nowhere, most of this won't apply to you and you can do what you want.

 

[REFLEXX]

I'd vote for a hybrid, like www.miracletruss.com it has a steel skin, steel trusses, wood purlins & girts. Take a look at my thread for more info.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I have a 60x60 with a 16 ft eave and a 12/2 roof (21 ft peak) that I built in '99 as an aircraft hangar and general work shop. Metal buildings are not as tight as other kinds of structures. If you want them sealed up real tight, it will take some work. Also, if you want a shop with finished walls, you will have to build a "building inside a building" to get what you want, at additional cost. The upside to this is if you are in cold regions, you will have the insulation of the metal building and the insulation you put in the interior stud walls, and it will be very energy efficient.

For a large working area, I don't think a metal building can be beat. There are some things you need to do right the first time (as with anything you do) and insulation is one of them. Buy the very best. It cannot be replaced if it starts falling apart, except to de-skin the building and then replace the skins. Buy the top quality stuff, not the stuff that will fall apart in a few years. Mine is so brittle right now, anyone who comes in the hangar get a warning right off to don't touch the insulation, even with one fingertip, and don't let anything fall againist it.

Also, and some of this has been discussed here before, there are different quality metal buildings, and the price is very different. Cheap ones use poorly primed red iron that will begin rusting thru the primer in six months, the better ones will take years to rust, especially if you take time to touch up the scratches incurred during erection of the structure.

Generally, better quality buildings have **** in prulins that allow the main frames and trusses to be set out to the outside skin of the building, effectively widening the usuable interior of the building by a foot or more depending on the building size/metals used. middle of the road buildings use bypass prulins which pass outside of the main columns and frames of the building and waste space. These prulins are bolted to tabs welded to the frames. Cheap buildings use the bypass purlins but bolt them directly to the main columns and frames, omitting the steel tabs, thus a "looser" more flexible building.

Visit my hangar construction web pages.....

http://charles-dusty.tripod.com/hangar.html

Charles

 

[theblur98ss]

I like the looks of the micacle truss building. I have a coupe acres in the middle of no where so zoning and codes aren't really an issue. I like the idea of being able to do most of the work myself. There is a guy right down the road doing one of these buildings right now. I'm gonna have to stop by and get a look.

 

[OzCop]

I had a 40x50 Steel building built about four years ago, contracted to a guy who had a great reputation in the DFW metro area, (actually outside the metro area a few miles in Weatherford) who custom ordered steel purlins, girders, uprights, etc. and welded it all together. I had it wrapped in white insulation, and color choice of exterior walls and roof, plus two 15 ft. long roof vents that ran along the spine of the roof. I had two doors installed in front, one 12x12, and one 9x12 in order to drive RV inside, along with space to store enclosed trailer and a couple of race cars. I installed cabinets, sink, hot/cold water, and 200 amp electrical service myself, making certain I ample 120 outlets, a 50 Amp for the RV, both inside and out, and a couple of 220s for the air compressor and other power needs. He used 6 inch concrete for the base flooring, including a 25x40 concrete apron. Also used a 12x12 door for the rear, thinking I could drive the RV through and into the back yard. Unfortunately, I was unable to use it due to not having enough space to turn the RV prior to the fence which was only 35 feet away. It was not heated or airconditioned, but I did have a 40 inch fan I used to push the air, and never needed any heat to speak of. Bottom line, this building was as sturdy as the brick house in front of it, tight as a drum, cheaper electrical bills than imagined, and a wonderful place to hide out and work on the two race cars, clean the RV and trailer, etc... Cost without work I did myself was just over 30K, which included doors and power door openers for the two front doors. I had one walk-through door and one window, but plenty of lighting that seemed really bright with the exposed white ceiling/wall insulation. Counting material and my labor for water, electrical, and other necessities, one could add 5K, and still have less than 40K in this 2000 sq. ft. structure...
Unfortunately, my spouse retired from Verizon and decided we needed to return to KY after 11 years to be closer to her ailing parents...I couldn't argue with her logic, so I reluctantly put the place up for sale and promptly sold it, although with some regret on my part. If I were to build another building, it would be of the same type and material. I can't say enough positive things about my steel building experience...

 

[Double Venom]

Boy, have I been gone too long! I was on the site when it started, and my building went up about the same time. Don't know if you can do a search under my name that far back or not? My building is a "Kentucky Steel" building, good not great but good. Looked at multiple other steel buildings first and hard, went with KY. IF i were, and I'm not, but if I were to do it again, I think I would go with "Miracle Truss" steel this time. Done the 'wood' thing many times over the years and no way would I go back now!
DV
P.S. for those that knew, wrote, etc., thank you...

 

[RAYJAY]

Just looking for some input on metal buildings. I was planning on building a 30x40 garage but a 40x60 metal building would come out cheaper. Looking for any feedback....good or bad from owners of these. The location will be in Pennsylvania and it will be heated somewhat and eventually have lift installed as well. Building will be mostly for wrenching on cars and ripping apart scrap metal.

WHERE IN PA ???


I put up a stockade pole barn up over 10 years ago and its still going strong

easy to insulate and dry wall really warm in the winter also

Jeff

 

[theblur98ss]

I'm in western Pa. About an hour north of pittsburgh. I really like the miracle truss buildings but I feel they're too much $$$$.

 

[tubeman]

I just built a 50x80 metal building and love it! My question is what is the expected lifespan of a steel building?

 

[REFLEXX]

I'd do Miracle Truss again. Even if it was a building that I would live in. Check my thread for what the interior ends up looking like.

Its 100+ degrees outside and the interior never got above 82. That's WITHOUT any air conditioning, just the insulation and drywall! I can imagine what a "regular" steel building would be like (oven?).

If it's a shed or a hobby shop, then steel is fine. If it's a place where you will spend many hours, then go Miracle Truss. The nicer the building the more it helps property values. I spend about $70,000 on my 30 x 50, and it's gained every penny back in prop value by the time I was done.

As far as lifespan, they say 25+ years on the steel skin (roof and walls). As long as the rain stays out, I would imagine the trusses would last a LONG time (100's of years?)

 

[W-Cummins]

Its 100+ degrees outside and the interior never got above 82. That's WITHOUT any air conditioning, just the insulation and drywall! I can imagine what a "regular" steel building would be like (oven?).

That has got to be one of the biggest bull storys I have seen here! What are you comparing? A non insulated building to your insulated building?? Remove the insulation from yours and it too can be an oven. There is nothing in the design of your building that makes it cooler or warmer than a REAL steel building The only advantage to that design is that it makes it easy to attach drywall and conventional insulation to it.

So lets look at the advantages vs the disadvantages for that type of building

Cost more
Faster Attachment of Drywall
Fire danger (higher insurance cost)
Wood Rots and is subject to insects
Can use conventional insulation but you must cover it with drywall

They are one step up from a pole building in that they don't have the wooden poles in the ground but if your not worried about rotting the wood the pole building is much cheaper.

If I was building mine over today There is no way I would build any thing but another red iron framed building.

William....

 

[REFLEXX]

That has got to be one of the biggest bull storys I have seen here! What are you comparing? A non insulated building to your insulated building?? Remove the insulation from yours and it too can be an oven. There is nothing in the design of your building that makes it cooler or warmer than a REAL steel building The only advantage to that design is that it makes it easy to attach drywall and conventional insulation to it.

So lets look at the advantages vs the disadvantages for that type of building

Cost more
Faster Attachment of Drywall
Fire danger (higher insurance cost)
Wood Rots and is subject to insects
Can use conventional insulation but you must cover it with drywall

They are one step up from a pole building in that they don't have the wooden poles in the ground but if your not worried about rotting the wood the pole building is much cheaper.

If I was building mine over today There is no way I would build any thing but another red iron framed building.

William....

Yes I am comparing this building to a "regular" steel building with the thin (and expensive) insulation that an all steel building needs. You need to "build" walls inside a steel building (and insulate them) to get more thermal control.

I paid more for the ability to insulate better (sound and temperature). So you're saying that a regular red iron building, with the thin insulation will be 82 degrees in 102 degree heat?

If you have steel purlins and girts, do they not radiate the heat that is absorbed by the metal skin? The wood ones do not pass the same amount of heat.

I bought it BECAUSE I could use regular insulation and drywall. This building is now also MUCH more soundproof.

Fire danger? from what? all the wall 2x6's are horizontal, so there's no need for fire breaks. Fire likes to climb vertically through walls, no chance of that here. Also the 5/8" drywall is fire rated and is better than the 1/2" that's in a norma house. Is that thin insulation in "regular" steel buildings rated better than gypsum???

Wood rots, steel rusts. Pick your poison. BUT my wood purlins and girts are not exposed to the elements, they are sealed inside a metal box.

and if you live in an earthquake prone area (as I do). There's no better construction than wood with steel trusses. At least that's what the insurance guy says.

Look at the MT website, there are many people that have built HOMES & CHURCHES out of thier MT kits. I didn't want an industrial building, I wanted something better and paid for it.

my 2.5c

 

[JWS]

Dollar for dollar, I would always build a steel building/pole barn. Both styles have to have the inside walls finished so the deal with a building inside of a building is reaching as far as I am concerned. My dad when he retired and sold his gas station, we moved everything home to a pole barn as he only sold the building and ground. Both hoists, compressor, tools and many parts of non describable explanations. Anyway, new concrete floor, divider wall (to shorten the work area/need for heat) and insulated then white steel vertically attached on the inside. Bright, very warm in the winter, fire proof, really made a great shop. Less money spent on the building, more money available for toys, projects and tools.

 

[W-Cummins]

I'm glad that YOU think that you have a better building than an all steel building, but I don't see it (BTW I'm not saying your building is not very nice, just not better).

The main diffrence is that you have wood for purlans and girts. How that is better? Is the wood stronger than the steel?? If you think that wood is better why build a steel building at all??

You have 6" of conventional insulation in your walls? If so you have a R19 wall at best. You can put 6" or more insulation in the all steel wall just like you have. As for the cost I'm not sure that if you look at the installed cost your conventional insulation is that much cheaper. BTW there are lots of other insulation systems for steel buildings than just the scrim backed stuff. It's used becuse of its low cost and FAST application.

You do NOT have to build walls inside a red iron building to add more insulation to it. (you will need to sheet the walls with some thing just like you had to do in your building) ( well I guess you could have left the kraft paper for the walls

I bet the wood purlans and girts in your building will transfer more heat to the inside than the steel in mine will. Two things make me "think" this is true ( I have no proof that I'm right 1st becuse your wood contacts the steel roof and wall panels and the insulation is between them and the steel purlans and girts on mine. 2nd you have more of them ( my 16' wall has 2 girts and you have many more. BTW I know that steel conducts heat better than wood does, but wood does conduct it well enough that in a well insulated wall the studs print through quite well when looked at with a thermal camera.

As for the earth quake deal I will stick with the all steel structure. I don't see how steel with wood is better.

Lastly your building looks just like any steel building I have seen from the outside and the only diffrence I can see from the inside is that your truss's are not solid members (not worth any more $$) You can drywall either building inside if you want. I would probably use steel wall liner panels if I had to do my place over, as they are way better than dry wall for what I want to do. They are cheeper by far if you figure out the costs of the drywall and the money paied to paint and finish it. Not to mention much more durable.

William....

 

[REFLEXX]

William,

The best part is that you and I both already have bulidings we love. Now it's up to everyone else to figure out what matters to them.

But seriously, I have more views on my thread, so it MUST be a better building! Neener, neener!

Oh and my trusses look prettier with all them round rods!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You can go on all night about the merits of one type of construction over another. One thing I did find in my researching steel buildings, is that there is a huge difference in the quality of steel buildings, by manufacturer. Some have the cheapest quality primer on the steel and they paint it over the rust, and within weeks it bleeds thru, while others actually sandblast the steel and give it a good coat of red primer before they send it out. Some use C channel for prulins instead of Z material, and some even install a purlin at floor level, while others merely set a stamped angle in anchors in the floor to screw the bottom of the sheet to. Some (most) use bypass prulins that put the frames further into the building, eating into the usable width, while others use ****-in purlins, allowing the main frames to fit againist the outside sheet, widening the interior space available. Some use cross bracing of steel rods, others use cable cross bracing, some use diaphgram bracing (no cross braces at all, mine is done that way, the outside sheet is a gauge heavier) Lots of variables, so you simply cannot say you are going to buy a steel building, without saying you are buying a Ford or Lincoln or Rolls of metal buildings. Decide what quality you want, then look at some finished buildings of each manufacturer you are considering.

Indeed, if you want a finished shop, with sheetrock or OSB walls, and a ceiling, you may be better off with a pole building or a stud wall building. Cement or cinder block, properly done, is another option. I have a steel building, and am happy with it, but when I do the lean to shop addition some day (funds permitting) I may do stud construction (wood or metal) with metal siding to match, or I might go steel, C channel and Z prulins like I have now and finish the interior, but repairs to the house are my next priority.

Charles