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Metal ceiling is in, quick related drywall question...

GreenScrew

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I want to install sheetrock on the walls running perpendicular to the studs. The beveled edge of the sheetrock will **** against the ceiling trim and I'm just wondering if the bevel will be noticeable after painting?

A couple options I have would be to run the sheetrock parallel so that an unbeveled edge meets the ceiling, or I could trim the beveled edge. I don't like either of those options if the bevel will be inconspicuous.

What are your thoughts?
 
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GreenScrew

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Walls are 8' sitting on a single row of cinder block, with 6 ceiling mounted fluorescent lights (4 foot x 2 bulbs). Garage is 24x28.
 

bullnerd

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I think they make a smaller metal "J" channel, like 5/8, run that around the top and cut the d-wall square. Slide it up inside, just like metal walls. Actually "F" channel would have been ideal, but too late.
 
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GreenScrew

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Right, that was an option I articulated as "running parallel to studs". This does pose some additional work in that there are more seams (it's really just 8' longer seam to finish not a big deal) but also finishing the seam butted up to the finished ceiling will be challenging. Maybe I'm overthinking things...

I've also considered that since I'll likely add wainscoting for added durability - I could also add an "accent" trim board picking up off of the wainscoting but running along the ceiling similar to baseboard that would hide the beveled edge. Would this look tacky? Nice? Or I can leave it as an option based on whether the beveled edge of drywall is aesthetically unpleasing.
 

-Brent-

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You can buy drywall edge trim, specifically, "J bead" or J channel. It's vinyl. It's used when running drywall up to a dissimilar material (metal, block, etc.).
 
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James-W

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Cut off the bevel and push that edge of the drywall up to the ceiling. Then put up a piece of trim to hide any imperfections of the drywall cut. You could use trim without cutting off the edge of the drywall, but if you do the trim won't sit tight to the drywall and MIGHT cause a problem with laying flat.
 

cozy200305

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I want to install sheetrock on the walls running perpendicular to the studs. The beveled edge of the sheetrock will **** against the ceiling trim and I'm just wondering if the bevel will be noticeable after painting?

A couple options I have would be to run the sheetrock parallel so that an unbeveled edge meets the ceiling, or I could trim the beveled edge. I don't like either of those options if the bevel will be inconspicuous.

What are your thoughts?

I'm curious how you trimmed the edges? Did you use that metal j channel for the ends of your steel to sit in on your ceiling?

I will be going through exactly what you are shortly btw.
 
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brownbagg

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drywall is installed sideways so when you tape the joint you tape the bevel. also stagger your joints so they are not on top of each other. do not install the drywall vertical, it will rack at every joint because its weaker with both panel on jams 2x
 
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GreenScrew

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You can buy drywall edge trim, specifically, "J bead" or J channel. It's vinyl. It's used when running drywall up to a dissimilar material (metal, block, etc.).
Do they make a channel that's deep enough to cover the drywall beveled edge? It would need to be like 2" deep wouldn't it? Unless I trim that off first at which point I'd probably just **** it to the ceiling J channel and I think it'd look fine.

I'm curious how you trimmed the edges? Did you use that metal j channel for the ends of your steel to sit in on your ceiling?

I will be going through exactly what you are shortly btw.

Yep, the edges of the metal ceiling are terminated in J channel. BTW, the ceiling looks fantastic and every buddy that stops over leaves wanting to do the same to their garage.


Bead of caulk?
This definitely won't address my concern for the beveled edge of the drywall sheet.

drywall is installed sideways so when you tape the joint you tape the bevel. also stagger your joints so they are not on top of each other. do not install the drywall vertical, it will rack at every joint because its weaker with both panel on jams 2x
I just can't see how I would "tape" the joint when it terminates at the ceiling J channel. I wouldn't want tape/mud on the J channel.
 
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GreenScrew

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At this point I'm leaning towards leaving the beveled edge butted to the ceiling to see how it looks once its painted and if I don't like it will have a plan B to use some sort of trim/border to address it. I'm even thinking I could use a darker flat accent color as a border around the ceiling edge that would hide the bevel that would tie in with other color accents in the garage. Depending on whether I do the knotty pine wainscoting or not. If I do the wainscoting I think I can get away with a trim board.
 
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GreenScrew

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Oh, and THANKS for all the comments and feedback. This community is greatly appreciated! Chose the ceiling finish and built my lighting solution based on threads here and couldn't be happier with the results!!
 

justanengineer

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JMO but if youre drywalling anyway, might as well drywall and mud the ceiling under the tin too so as to get a decent fire rating and better insulation. Saving a few bucks/time on drywall is silly if your insurance wont cover losses or worst case, someone gets hurt bc youre cheap&lazy.
 

-Brent-

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Do they make a channel that's deep enough to cover the drywall beveled edge? It would need to be like 2" deep wouldn't it? Unless I trim that off first at which point I'd probably just **** it to the ceiling J channel and I think it'd look fine.

Not that I have used or seen. You can get a sheetmetal fab shop to bend you something that could - but for the price, just rip an inch off and run it in the channel.
 

barks

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"I could also add an "accent" trim board picking up off of the wainscoting but running along the ceiling"? It's called 'crown molding'.
 
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