Metal ceiling panels,12' or 16'?

[bullnerd]

Need some advice,about to order the metal liner panels for the ceiling of my 30' by 40' pole building.

I was going to order 12' but am now thinking 16' would be quicker/easier?

Anyone that has done this job please give some suggestions as this will be my first shot at it.

Probably working alone but with a drywall lift.

Cant wait to get this done!

Also any tricks for hanging the vapor barrier would be useful too.Any special homemade gadgets for holding it up,etc...Which way,what size rolls....Trusses are 4' OC.

Thanks for any tips, I've done a lot of searching.

 

[jhogan2424]

I'd like to see some posts on this subject also and hopefully someone will throw up some pictures of their setup. I will be using the liner panels for my ceiling soon. Can I ask where you are purchasing your metal and about how much is it per square foot? Thanks.

 

[bullnerd]

Northeastern building supply in jackson Nj,closest supplier to me.

They beat me up on the price,one sales guy quoted me $1.75 lnft then when I went to order a different sales guy said no way,$2.18 lnft!

The material comes from metal sales in PA,but cant buy direct.

 

[cyamaha2007]

get a drywall lift to hold the steel. It works great, pre drill the holes. I stapled the vapor barrier to the trusses. Look at my build bellow for some pictures.

 

[cyamaha2007]

Oh and ask for seconds or number 2 metal it saved me a ton. It was way cheaper than regular liner panel.

 

[Red05GT]

We've hung panels from 8-23' using a drywall lift with a couple of 16' 2 x4s to support
the panel from bending, when hanging longer panels. We usually use a couple of lengths
of panels to counter break the joints so as to keep the panels running straight. For example, for a 40' run we would probably go 16',16',8'. Next run 8',16',16'. We like to
lay out electrical boxes to fall in the flat portion of the panels. We found using a cordless
impact is easier to install the fasteners. The price of 2nds, or liner panels can be 30-40 cents a foot less than # 1 metal and you won't be able to tell the diference.

 

[bullnerd]

So 16' s it is.
Didnt think about predrilling,someone did recommend the impact though.
I'll ask about the seconds.
All good tips fellas,thanks and keep them coming if you got them.

I checked out your pics Yamaha,what length were your panels?

Nice shop BTW.

 

[gnxtc2]

When I did mine, I did not pre-drill holes. The screws pierced the metal no problem.

The plant that makes the panels is in Scranton, PA. I ordered the panels from http://www.bestbuymetals.com/ and picked it from Scranton which was a little over an hour ride for me.

How high is your ceiling? The longer you make the panels, the more difficult it is going to be to handle them yourself. IMHO you're going to need help.

If you are getting 16'ers, order 16'6" in case the spans aren't exactly spaced evenly.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[bullnerd]

Wow!Nice transformation Bill!

Thanks for the pics.

I'll try to find someone to help out and along with the lift and some support boards hopefully I'll be good.

My trusses are 10' up,so not too bad.

How long did you go?

Building is Amish built,its right on!

PS,how about a close up of the trim around the windows if you get a chance?

Do you own a GNX btw? I have a T-type.

 

[gnxtc2]

Wow!Nice transformation Bill!

Thanks for the pics.

I'll try to find someone to help out and along with the lift and some support boards hopefully I'll be good.

My trusses are 10' up,so not too bad.

How long did you go?

Building is Amish built,its right on!

PS,how about a close up of the trim around the windows if you get a chance?

Do you own a GNX btw? I have a T-type.

Thanks

I used J channel for the panels around the exterior opening of the window. Then used aluminum siding trim sheet to fill in around the inside window ledge. Then caulked the seams. If you look closely in the rough pics, there is a wood nailer on the inside of the metal studs.

The beams are 24"OC. I ordered 10'6" sheets. My shop is 35'W x 60'L x 12'H.

GNX....I wish but I have a GN.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks again Bill.

Beautiful GN.

 

[trbomax]

Predrilling is good if the truss c/l's are true,and the holes end up in a nice straight line. We used 16' with a drywall lift. I padded the lift arms with some towels to prevent any marking of the metal. I would not use and impact as the hammering knocks the paint off of the screws and makes them stand out. Just use a cordless drill,they should not be put in tight enough that an impact is reqd. as it will put a reversed dimple in the metal.

 

[Jbullfrog]

My shop is 38x54 and I used 18'-6" sheets for most of it. Tab nailed the 6ml vapor barrier to the trusses before the steel. It is screwed parallel to the trusses with 2x4 in joist hangers on 36" centers between the trusses. The sheets over lap 12" down the middle. I have osb walls and the steel ceiling. My steel was used and the extra screw holes help keep the shop from having an echo. We put it up with a forklift basket and a snorkel lift.

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks a lot Max,thats some good info....especially since I dont have an impact gun with a torque setting feature!

Bullfrog -whats "tab nailed" ?

 

[Jbullfrog]

Order the new brushless 3 speed 18v Makita impact from Amazon. You need it for this job and will use it often after this. I just finished a 108'x60' pole shed at the farm and screwed 1/2 of it myself with my Makita. The 2nd speed works great for self tapping pole shed screws, as it keeps you from burning the tips by over speeding them. It is well worth it too.

 

[bullnerd]

Northeastern building supply in jackson Nj,closest supplier to me.

Uuuhhhh....yup?

Bullfrog ,thanks for the tip,how about that tab thing?

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

We put up 16' long panels from Menards; they were on sale and instock. Happened they fit perfect (OK ... should have been 16' 1.25"). Two guys (both 59y/o, 5-7, one works in office) using 8' ladders, drill/drivers, and my GF using a push broom as a deadman in the middle. We didn't predrill (white hex head pole build screws went right through the steel panel) and sometimes didn't mark the trusses on last panel and "missed" a few; which I "fillied" with the big plastic headed rivets they use on race cars. It was work, but we got it done. I don't think I would have try it on longer pieces with a third guy and a ladder. Looks nice. I used slatwall on the walls.

Next phase is flourescent lights. I'm NOT going to try to cut square or round holds for the boxes. I'm either going to surface mount conduit box with a simple 1/2" or 3/4" hole drilled through the panels and feed the the romex through the hole into the box or go direct with the romex into the flourescent fixture.

Wish I would have "discovered" the GJF, pole building steel, and slatwall at Menards five or six years ago!

 

[Jbullfrog]

I used this

http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp...50SLBC-1&SDesc=Bostitch®+Cap+Stapler+Kit

It staples a 1" plastic disc used for Tyvek, tar paper, and vapor barrier. I put J-channel around the outside all the way around.

 

[rburke65]

I am also getting ready to do my ceiling. A buddy and I got a row and a half up ....off step ladders, but we were not happy with the 2nd row. It was starting to gap at the raised ridges and not running true. But I did notice that my friend was shooting his screws on an angle. I know that each successive piece "nests" on the previous, but....... So I took the second row down. Is there any helpful suggestions or hints, tricks out there? Is there a sequence to installing the screws? I have a drywall lift reserved for this Friday....the 22nd. so that should help. And I like the idea of staggering the seams. One issue that I have is my sheets are 12' even and my trusses are 24" on center. In hind site....should have ordered 12' 6" but the price would have jumped on the special order. Too late now. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.

 

[bullnerd]

I used this

http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp...50SLBC-1&SDesc=Bostitch®+Cap+Stapler+Kit

It staples a 1" plastic disc used for Tyvek, tar paper, and vapor barrier. I put J-channel around the outside all the way around.

Dang..Iforgot about those things ,very cool,thanks for the link.

Yeah I was going to add an inch or two to the panel length for overlap,not sure why I would need more than that?

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks for the tin tips guys.

Anyone have any tips for the vapor barrier? How did you hold it up? Hand, 2by4, special tricks? What width is easy to handle?

 

[rburke65]

I just did my vapor barrier on my ceiling last week. I started with a piece 60' by 16' wide and my ceilings are 13' 6" high. What a ***** by yourself! I did have two 10' step ladders and I tried to drape the plastic.....6 mil......over the one ladder to take some of the weight, and it did help a little. But what really helped was when I took two 10' 2x4s and screwed them together to make one that was about 13'-7" long. I then put the prop under the plastic and jammed it under the bottom of the truss and there by holding the weight of the plastic. Worked well. But it was difficult to keep it straight when you start out with a piece that long. I had to make 'mid corse correction' 15' into the run. You'll never see it.

 

[bullnerd]

Yeah I'm thinking of going with something more managable.Maybe somthing that can be held right up the the trusses and rolled along?