Metal ceiling screwup

[Brianc500]

Steel ceiling panel screwup

I'm finishing the pole barn on my property (30x40 -12' ceiling HT) and I decided to finish the ceiling with metal paneling from Menards. They were special order, so I had to specify a length. My trusses are 24" on center so I ordered 8' panels thinking like I'm working with OSB of sheet rock. It's now just come to my attention that I've probably screwed up big time. I've never hung steel on a ceiling before and didn't know the panels will need to overlap by 6".

So am I going to have to cut every panel down to 6'-6" to work or is there some other configuration I can do to make these panels work.

 

[metlmunchr]

I've never done any metal ceiling work either, and don't really know why they'd need to overlap, but I'd guess you screw the sheets together at the overlap to keep everything tight and aligned.

Could you order some 1 ft long pieces and put them on every 4th truss prior to putting up your 8ft panels? Seems like that would give you the overlap, eliminate having to cut your existing sheets, and you'd buy less additional material than you would if you cut 18" off of all the 8 footers.

To be clear, the sheets would still **** at the joint, but both would overlap the 1 ft piece by 6"

One thing I can say from experience is that cutting any sort of ribbed or corrugated sheet is one of the least fun things you'll ever do, and if it was my job I'd only start cutting as a last resort.

 

[schurtjl]

Can you cancel or modify your order? I'm just about finished with installing the metal on my ceiling. My shop measures 56' x 56' (exterior measurements), so I ordered my panels 28' in length. Long enough for the first sheet to overlap the middle truss by 6 inches or so. Then the front sheet overlaps that middle truss as well by 6 inches. If there's any way possible, you might try to switch your order so you can span your shop with two pieces. Install the piece at the rear of the shop first, then the front piece. Hides that joint better that way. The attached picture shows when I first started, the back row installed lapping over the middle truss.

 

[jbwilkins]

Re: Steel ceiling panel screwup

I would think since it's a ceiling and not weather proof the 6" overlap would be overkill.....but panels at just 8' don't leave you any wiggle room if the framing is off by more than an inch....

 

[Glory]

You don’t need that much overlap if it’s for an interior application.

You can also use metal strapping to bridge the area in question and they provide fast cheap backing to screw to. This would allow you to overlap by 1/4”, just enough to hide the reveal and allow for stitching screws to be drilled through each piece tidying them together at the overlap.

Pic shows the 20ga strap I used when installing my panels.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If they are still on order, try to cancel or change size on the sheets.

I wouldn't cut the sheets, that'll be a PITA if you don't have a nibbler. But if you do, pay attention to which end you hang so the factory sheared end is exposed.

If you had a siding brake or know somebody that does, you might be able to custom bend up some J-channel to cover each 8' seam.

 

[gungatim]

I wouldn't cut them at all. overlap as little or as much as you want. add on your order a few extra panels to cut down for the ends where they are too short. doesn't matter if there is extra overlap under the next piece, you won't see it at all...

 

[Brianc500]

Can you cancel or modify your order? I'm just about finished with installing the metal on my ceiling. My shop measures 56' x 56' (exterior measurements), so I ordered my panels 28' in length. Long enough for the first sheet to overlap the middle truss by 6 inches or so. Then the front sheet overlaps that middle truss as well by 6 inches. If there's any way possible, you might try to switch your order so you can span your shop with two pieces. Install the piece at the rear of the shop first, then the front piece. Hides that joint better that way. The attached picture shows when I first started, the back row installed lapping over the middle truss.

Unfortunately I only realized my mistake once the material was delivered, so no changing it now.

 

[Bretny]

Just but them up, get an extra sheet of the same material and cut 2in strips out to make a trim piece for the gap.

 

[Brianc500]

I wouldn't cut them at all. overlap as little or as much as you want. add on your order a few extra panels to cut down for the ends where they are too short. doesn't matter if there is extra overlap under the next piece, you won't see it at all...

I'm going to blow insulation over the ceiling once it's installed. If the panels don't overlap at the trusses will that cause a load issue. I plan on blowing in at least 12" of cellulose once it's installed.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

Just but them up, get an extra sheet of the same material and cut 2in strips out to make a trim piece for the gap.

That's a lot of cutting without plasma or a shear.

 

[cj7jeep81]

I wouldn't cut them shorter, and you could just overlap them the 18". I think trying to **** them up is going to be extremely difficult. When I've installed metal panels, I'd just use the self tapping screws, and run them through. If you **** them together, you'd have to run that screw in at an angle, and its going to want to skate across the panel vs punching through.

Personally, I'd just overlap the 18" (you won't notice it), and have to buy a few more panels.

 

[Hooked]

Personally, I would overlap about 6 inches with some ends/overlaps between trusses. Simply run a couple screws through the joint and be done with it. Blown insulation isn't going to cause a weight problem with the joints screwed together. I would stagger the unsecured joints.
Just my personal opinion.

 

[Brianc500]

Personally, I would overlap about 6 inches with some ends/overlaps between trusses. Simply run a couple screws through the joint and be done with it. Blown insulation isn't going to cause a weight problem with the joints screwed together. I would stagger the unsecured joints.
Just my personal opinion.

I think this is the best option, I don't want to cut a bunch of panels. As long as the weight will hold on the seams between the trusses I'm good with that. I planned to stagger the joints anyways just because it will look a little better.

 

[Bretny]

4.5in cutoff wheel will make quick work of that thin metal. No need for a sheer or plasma.

 

[Ck1]

I ordered 10’2” for my 24” Centers. Thus, 2” overlap with no issues.

I would consider using only about 1” over overlap and then nailing 2x4s next to the existing trusses so that you can get 3-4 trusses with your 8’ parts and then “reset” with a 5’8” row.

 

[Prospecter]

Strapping the ceiling perpendicular to the joists is preferred anyway, because it allows you to level out any uneven parts. Wood strapping (1x3 nominal) is typical in my part of Maine, and inexpensive. As others have said, go with what you have. Do the overlap. Should easily hold up the cellulose. Then order some extra pieces to make up the difference. Your ceiling will look great!

 

[My Old Tools]

You can cut them with a Skil saw and a plywood blade. Put the blade on backwards and cut away. It works great.

 

[Samh]

Strapping the ceiling perpendicular to the joists is preferred anyway, because it allows you to level out any uneven parts. Wood strapping (1x3 nominal) is typical in my part of Maine, and inexpensive. As others have said, go with what you have. Do the overlap. Should easily hold up the cellulose. Then order some extra pieces to make up the difference. Your ceiling will look great!

This would be my suggestion