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metal cutting blade on portable table saw

jives

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Hi all;
I was given a Delta Shopmaster 10" benchtop table saw, 15-20 years old, works fine. I don't need or want, but if I can use with a metal cutting blade such as a Diablo Steel Demon that is made for a circular saw, then the saw can earn its keep. I've read lots of reviews of various metal cutting blades performing well in standard circ saws (not specialty metal cutting saws), so this seems like a no brainer. Saw is 10" (could put on a 7.5" blade), 13 amps (could be 15).

Anyone tried this? Downsides?
 
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CallumRD1

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I’ve had great results using a table saw breaking down aluminum stock with a 7-1/4” Diablo blade designed for aluminum. I’ve probably processed about a thousand pounds of stock this way but don’t get me wrong, you have to really know what you’re doing because the consequences of screwing up are extremely severe.
 
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jives

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Sorry, but I am unclear why this would be so dangerous -- kickback and so forth. Consider that a number of manufacturers make steel cutting circular saw blades for "regular" circular saws that generally spin at 4000-5200 rpm. Freud (Diablo Steel Demon) makes a metal cutting blade rated at about 5600 rpm, and even HF's entry is rated at 6000 rpm. Both are stated to cut sheet steel to about 1/4" at high rpms. My saw is rated at 4800 rpm.

So, again, is there a particular downside or danger that exceeds that of using one of these blades in a circular saw?
 

kelpaso1

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Sorry, but I am unclear why this would be so dangerous -- kickback and so forth. Consider that a number of manufacturers make steel cutting circular saw blades for "regular" circular saws that generally spin at 4000-5200 rpm. Freud (Diablo Steel Demon) makes a metal cutting blade rated at about 5600 rpm, and even HF's entry is rated at 6000 rpm. Both are stated to cut sheet steel to about 1/4" at high rpms. My saw is rated at 4800 rpm.

So, again, is there a particular downside or danger that exceeds that of using one of these blades in a circular saw?
Just because they make them does not make them ok or safe to use. There is a reason a "real" metal cutting saw has much lower RPM's.
 

Walkers

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This post gives me the willys! But, I guess someone has to have pictures with chunks of metal in their face a big cuts in appendage, otherwise the gory picture mill would grind to a halt.
 

cmandp

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With a circular saw you're advancing the tool into the work. And the if the saw was to jam the blade should spin (that's why you're not supposed to over tighten the blade bolt) and there's a retractable guard to help protect the blade from hitting you (hopefully you are also using it in a safe position that if either of those two things fail you wouldn't get cut). The work piece also would be shot away from you if a kickback occurred, but your also pressing down on it with the weight of the saw so that's unlikely. The blade is also mostly enclosed to keep chips from being thrown at you.

A table saw you are feeding the work into the blade. You also have a fence to jam the workpiece against along with the blade getting pinched in the kerf. And tablesaws are known to kick back and they shoot the work piece back at you, think metal spear. Not to mention chips being thrown right back at you. Steel is too hard a material to be cutting with a table saw (or most other wood working tools).

There's doing something a bit risky and taking some extra precautions and then there's cutting steel on a table saw. Please don't do it.
 

Steve_P

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Table saws - cutting wood, are one of the most dangerous tools - either that or a chain saw are the main emergency room tool use accidents.
Add cutting metal into the equation on a table saw with a way too high blade speed= Death wish.
 

kelpaso1

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When I was 16 or so I was making something out of wood that I had to cut a 1X4X6ft long in half length wise. Never used my dads table saw before (but watched and helped him before). Set up the fence and started cutting. I was young and stupid and did not make sure the wood stayed against the fence. It got crooked and binded up and launched that piece of wood past me and into the drywall behind. I had some splainin to do when my dad got home. To this day I am still very nervous if I have to use a table saw.

I wouldn't even attempt to cut metal on one.
 
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jives

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Yeah, I get all that. Know full well about kickback, binding, and so forth. Never an issue with using the miter and sled.

So, does this change the issue at all if only using the miter and no fence? Not trying to be difficult here, just fully exploring options.
 

2oolhound

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The skil worm drives are supposed to be good for steel. (they spin at something like 1600 rpm)

I was given a small 7.5" table saw a while back. I used a regular carbide tip blade with about 75 teeth on it to cut some strips off a 24" x 24" x 1/4 mild steel plate I had. It cut well. I then cut some sheet metal but as I recall I needed a thin plywood back plate. I don't think I cut more than 10 - 24" cuts before the blade was toast.

I saw a youtube video where a guy was cutting 1" steel with a handheld circular saw. I don't remember technicals like what blade, tooth count etc.
 
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CarterKraft

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Yeah, I get all that. Know full well about kickback, binding, and so forth. Never an issue with using the miter and sled.

So, does this change the issue at all if only using the miter and no fence? Not trying to be difficult here, just fully exploring options.

It wouldn't be very useful to me for steel but definitely for aluminum.
I have cut all sorts of AL on my table and miter saws with regular wood carbide blades.
As usual don't cut your fingers off, wear safety glasses and everything else is fine.
 

Walkers

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Yeah, I get all that. Know full well about kickback, binding, and so forth. Never an issue with using the miter and sled.

So, does this change the issue at all if only using the miter and no fence? Not trying to be difficult here, just fully exploring options.
No, it doesn’t change anything. This is a bad idea from the start. But ultimately, we all do whatever we want regardless of advice from others. So have at it and tell us how stupid we all are because it is such a phenomenal tool…
 

ycgoat

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I have a chop saw I used once upon a time with an abrasive saw blade and my problem was the sparks melted the plastic around it. I just tried a metal cutting blade and first the 1-1/2 angle moved around so I clamped it, then on the 2cnd cut it got hot and melted the plastic on the base.

Has me questioning the metal cutting blades at the higher speeds. the ratings are probably safety ratings not effectiveness.
 

ng8264723

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I am an ER doc it sounds like a great idea we have been slow lately with the exception of Covid. It's always great fixing table saw injuries. I love lining up the cut off appendages on the fluoroscope!!!!!!
I have had so many flying fingers over the years!
Broken noses!
Filleted noses!
All from table saws!
So sure add metal to the mix!
ORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Buy a Milwaulkee band saw and a SWAG table and save the copay.
I will be in the ER if you need me!
 

PoorUB

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Many times I have cut aluminum up to 1/2" thick in my table saw with a carbide blade for wood. Never tried steel. I have used normal carbide router bits on aluminum too.

The only issue I see is the blade throws metal slivers back at the operator. Avoid the thought to brush yourself off with your hands!
 

tarbellb

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Aluminum, sure, lots
Brass, yeah, done it

But steel is a bad idea


The pucker factor is high when processing metals through the table saw, and thats with proven safety measures in place.
 

Chumly

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I've ONLY, EVER used those metal cutting blades in a circ or hypoid saw for dropping into a kerf to cut rebar. I'm with all the others in this old post, I'm bit afraid of table saws as it is, let alone steel going through one. Plus, it takes up a lot of shop space for something I really don't think you'll actually use to cut metal.

Sell it, get a drop saw instead.
 
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jives

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Okay, since this post was revived I will conclude it with my decision. I did not put on a metal cutting blade. I improved my portaband table to be more secure, though it it quite limited in what it can do. I decided to turn to benchtop table saw into a disk sander, at least until I can get my hands on a good disk/belt sander unit for a super cheap price. Cut the carbide teeth off an old 10" blade, ground smooth, made sure it was true round, backed with a smaller blade to stiffen, stuck on an adhesive sanding disk, and voila', it works.
 

1Garageman

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Don't do it! You are obviously having second thoughts about it, or else you wouldn't of even asked. It is a STUPID idea to even risk your safety to cut metal. Sell the free table saw online and use that money to buy a proper metal cutting device. It will save you time, money, and body parts in the long run!!
 

mike93lx

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Okay, since this post was revived I will conclude it with my decision. I did not put on a metal cutting blade. I improved my portaband table to be more secure, though it it quite limited in what it can do. I decided to turn to benchtop table saw into a disk sander, at least until I can get my hands on a good disk/belt sander unit for a super cheap price. Cut the carbide teeth off an old 10" blade, ground smooth, made sure it was true round, backed with a smaller blade to stiffen, stuck on an adhesive sanding disk, and voila', it works.
Good call
 

neophyte

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Okay, since this post was revived I will conclude it with my decision. I did not put on a metal cutting blade. I improved my portaband table to be more secure, though it it quite limited in what it can do. I decided to turn to benchtop table saw into a disk sander, at least until I can get my hands on a good disk/belt sander unit for a super cheap price. Cut the carbide teeth off an old 10" blade, ground smooth, made sure it was true round, backed with a smaller blade to stiffen, stuck on an adhesive sanding disk, and voila', it works.
Ironic.
My worst woodworking injury was sanding my fingertips off when I was rushing something.
That was on a belt sander, but I presume a disc sander would work almost as well.
I also lost some hair that got yanked right out while using a spindle sander. At least that happened so quick I didn’t even feel it.
Never wear loose clothing around a sander. Or have long loose hair around one.

As to the other safety issues raised concerning table saws.
While plenty of people get hand injuries and the occasional face injury(usually eye injuries) I don’t hear much about table saw death injuries.(they can happen, usually from bad kickback into the abdomen)

Years ago someone posted a link to some Russian website that had pictures of angle grinder injuries.
A number of the injuries were dead people on stainless table tops, killed by grinding wheels that had broken.
There were grinding wheel parts sticking out of peoples chests, and heads.
There were also pictures of broken grinding wheels sticking out of peoples legs, and people missing sections of their hands.
Wire wheels used on grinders can also easily grab clothing and **** it in, along with flesh(there have been threads on GJ about members having this happen)
Basically, angle grinders whether large or small can easily cause severe injury, and most people don’t even think about it.
( I mention this since you were discussing cutting metal)

As far as bandsaw go, while bandsaws can be relatively safe, plenty of people get injured using the saws.
The user accidentally pushing their finger into the blade is the normal method, resulting in either a crosscut or rip cut of their finger/s.
The other safety issue is leaving the blade guard to high, and running your arm or hand into the blade,
Or trying to cut something that isn’t flat against the bandsaw table and having the piece flip, pulling you hands into the blade.(Sam Maloof, a well known chairmaker has said he is used to cutting wood like this, has gotten injured, It’s definitely not safe, but it was what he was used to so he continued).
All the above are for vertical bandsaws.

As far as cutting sheet metal with a tablesaw.
it really depends on what material you are cutting, whether you are using the right blade, and doing so within the recommended speed range for the blade, and how you are doing the cut, whether the saw is safe.
Bridge City Toolworks, back when it was owned by the founder, used to cut the brass stock for measuring square blades on a tablesaw, with a blade made for cutting brass.( or maybe just general “metal”) This was mentioned decades ago in some article in Fine Woodworking.
maybe the guy used dome type of setup like a cutting sled to make things safer, but I don’t recall.
If using a sled on a tablesaw is an option due the size of the piece you are going to cut, it would make things significantly safer.
Using a sled would be a must for smaller pieces of metal.

Lastly, one safety issue most people don’t think about is with the metal stock that is being cut.
Metal that is cut can have a sharp burr edge that can be very sharp, and easily lacerate a person when handling both the offcut and the main piece.
Long pieces of metal stock can be dangerous if cut at an angle, since the resulting offcut and main pieces can be very sharp, and easily impale a person if you accidentally walk int the piece, or the offcut falls unfortunately. ( I know people this has happened to).
Offcuts can also fall on feet, which is one of the reasons for steel toe boots, and Metatarsal guards on some safety boots.
 
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