To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Metal cutting jig, layout tools?

Chaznsc

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
6,536
Location
SC
I'm cutting some metal (angle and tube) for a welding table and am practicing on some smaller stock. I'm pretty (ok, really) new to metal working so I'm wading into this and have some basic concerns. For instance, cutting angle iron on a 45 seems to be problematic for me, getting those lengths just right seems to be out of my reach. I'm using a Milwaukee chop saw and it does a god job, or I think to does.

Are there any layout tools available for the neophyte? I've got a square, protractor, etc, but a, thinking there's a better way.

Thank you.

chaz
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

gregtwojeeps

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
5,096
Location
Ky
Sounds like you have the right tools, it just takes practice on scrap. When I cut angle on angle iron, I always make my mark to the shortest point of the inside of the angle, not to the longest. . And remember, unlike fine woodworking that is to be stained the angles don't have to be .001 perfect. You are welding, so you have fill capacity in your welds to fill in any gaps that don't get TOO big. good luck.

P.S. It is handy when one is wrapping a outside edge of a table top with angle, to cut 45 deg angles on two short pieces of scrap. Lay the two scrap pieces on the table to fit well, then scribe a mark along the angle cuts down on the table top. Use the shortest part of the angle, or longest if you prefer, to transfer the measurement to your final piece to be cut. This will also help in showing if the angles are correct, sometimes a corner may be a beat up 80-90 degree which requires two less than, 45 deg. cuts. good luck
 
Last edited:

Ign

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
I do the opposite; mark to longest and layout with a 45 degree square back from there. Not sure it matters, whatever you're comfortable with.

Get the UltraFine Sharpies, and blue lasts longer than black but sometimes vanishes on certain mill scales. Get a tape measure you really like; the cheap Stanleys are not crisp IMO. I prefer Starrett Tough Tapes or the new Milwaukees, but tape measure preference is hotly debated & there are numerous threads on the board about just that.
 
OP
C

Chaznsc

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
6,536
Location
SC
My problem is marking. Since I have to flip the direction, I cue the base of one corner and the top of the other.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

csp

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,720
Location
Franktown, CO
I use a cutting disc on a 4.5" grinder for any cut that has to be accurate. As said, the blades wander on those chop saws with composite blades. Between that and the noise I sold mine after years of non-use.

Portabands work well too but you have to keep your eye on it. The blade doesn't run perpendicular to the base shoe on mine.
 
OP
C

Chaznsc

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
6,536
Location
SC
What I have found is that the fence on my chop saw is grossly inaccurate. Depending on how the angle is appropriated in the fence, I get a square cut, or a very noticeable acute cut on a 45 degree cross cut.
 

RAMBIN

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
133
Location
canada
I prefer coping my cuts but then again i use a torch i don't care for chopsaws. i find cope cuts like your talking a pain to get square.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom