Metal Cutting Miter Saw

[gearhead1]

New miter saw from Evolution - pivots like a wood cutting miter saw to do angles. I got all excited until I saw the price of $850!

Anyone ever put a regular metal cutting chop saw on a turntable to mimic a miter saw for fast set up for angle cuts?



https://store.evolutionpowertools.com/blogs/evolution-posts/the-new-miter-chop-saw-s355cps?utm_source=drip&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=+New+Product%C2%A0+The+Industry%27s+First+14%22+Metal+Cutting+Mitering+Chop+Saw

 

[metaldad]

i use 10'' metal blades in my makita miter.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

That chop saw looks badass I'm still using my Rage 3. I told myself I'd spring for their chop saw next. I can't do a price like that without a return on money. Here's to dreaming.

 

[GeoBruin]

That's really what was needed to keep up with the crop of small mitering bandsaws out there. Unfortunately it will still be loud and throw chips everywhere.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I like it but I bought a grizzy mitering bandsaw & it has a larder capacity & much safer.

7" x 8-1/4" 1 HP Swivel Metal-Cutting Bandsaw at Grizzly.com

<h1>G0613 7" x 8-1/4" 1 HP Swivel Metal-Cutting Bandsaw</h1> <h2>This saw is built for accuracy and production!</h2> <p>With the G0613 7" x 8-1/4" 1 HP Swivel Metal-Cutting Bandsaw, easy angle set-ups between 0° and 60° means no wasted time between cuts. <p>Lever controlled blade guide locks...

www.grizzly.com

 

[tarbellb]

I liked my Evo 380 (cast base, dedicated metal cutting 14" blade), even thought it was the best buy in the category. Ive run just about every cold cut on the market.

But ever since getting my pivoting head band saw I almost always walk over to it first- quiet, no hot chips, cheap blades, and cuts everything I throw at it.

These cold cut saws have there place, they really shine in fast production aluminum work, window frames, awnings, etc... fast, accurate, repeatable.

Those damn hot chips, the noise, and the blade cost is a real negative in my usage.


This is likely a versatile tool, Evo does make decent stuff, but not sure I would drop $800+ on this vs the Grizzly posted above!

 

[ez-duzit]

What you want is a mitering bandsaw. Mine is a combination vertical/horizontal.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I still use a cold cut saw but the band saw is the go to. I had a little mishap when the blade caught the c chanel and smacked my hand. There is very little room for error with the cc saw, bs is much safer. Keep in mind the work piece was properly clamped and my hands were not near the blade, accidendents do happen even when you are careful.

 

[Tomstir]

But ever since getting my pivoting head band saw I almost always walk over to it first- quiet, no hot chips, cheap blades, and cuts everything I throw at it.

What did you get?

 

[JMcFly]

I have the evolution rage 3. I used it to cut the steel square tubing for my camper shell build and everything in my head was telling me this is not how metal is supposed to be cut. Cut but everything was clamped down and it cut through like butter. I would like to get a mitering bandsaw, I would feel much more comfortable with that

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I still use a cold cut saw but the band saw is the go to. I had a little mishap when the blade caught the c chanel and smacked my hand. There is very little room for error with the cc saw, bs is much safer. Keep in mind the work piece was properly clamped and my hands were not near the blade, accidendents do happen even when you are careful.

Cold cut of dry cut saw? I assume you're talking about a dry cut. Uncommon for a 11rpm cold saw to swing parts around...

 

[Sumboodie]

Miters are great and all, but I can't think of many times that I needed other than 90, or 45.

 

[iamhomeless]

I have an older evolution compound miter saw meant for wood and metal, i pulled the combination blade and put in a dedicated metal blade because it's was a little rough on wood and I have other wood saws

It is pretty nice to be able to cut weird angles reliably.

 

[rancherbill]

i use 10'' metal blades in my makita miter.

Do you cut steel? Do you get any broken teeth?

I cut Aluminum with an ordinary blade with mine

 

[metaldad]

Do you cut steel? Do you get any broken teeth?

I cut Aluminum with an ordinary blade with mine

i bought a lenox 10'' 52 tooth blade from amazoom.
used it, pharting around, to cut flue pipe.
26 gage? had to use miter saw, to get a nice pair of opposing 90's, to fab up a near zero rise 90 fitting.
worked great.
thicker steel, id tend to select a band saw, or a cut off wheel in a side winder.
haven't attempted to cut thicker steel with it.
guy at work uses a 12'' to cut unistrut. he seems to like it

 

[Renegade1LI]

Cold cut of dry cut saw? I assume you're talking about a dry cut. Uncommon for a 11rpm cold saw to swing parts around...

Dry cut

 

[whateg01]

Miters are great and all, but I can't think of many times that I needed other than 90, or 45.

You aren't building enough stuff. I have fixtures to make cutting 45 and 30 easy on the bandsaw so I don't have to resquare the head but I have other stuff that I use for other angles quite often.

 

[Sumboodie]

You aren't building enough stuff. I have fixtures to make cutting 45 and 30 easy on the bandsaw so I don't have to resquare the head but I have other stuff that I use for other angles quite often.

No, not so much, just most things are square.

 

[rancherbill]

i bought a lenox 10'' 52 tooth blade from amazoom.

What's the blade rated for RPM? Most metal blades are lower than a miter saw. It works for thinner stuff but I understand the teeth can shatter with thicker steel. As I say I cut Aluminum but it is much softer.

 

[tarbellb]

What did you get?

My little Klutch (Nortern Tool house brand) table top band saw. Grabbed it a while back, sub $200. Great for quick cuts at that capacity.
Also recommend the bigger Grizzly, comes on a dedicated stand, <$800 iirc.

 

[Tomstir]

My little Klutch (Nortern Tool house brand) table top band saw. Grabbed it a while back, sub $200. Great for quick cuts at that capacity.
Also recommend the bigger Grizzly, comes on a dedicated stand, <$800 iirc.

Thanks
I keep going back and forth between the chop saw type and band saw type. That grizzly has been viewed a bunch of times too. I just don't have the space for it. The cost of the portable band saw type like hem have gone up a bunch too. I have a dedicated miter stand with an old milwaukee 14" that I want to upgrade......keep getting pulled in both directions. I'm a home gamer so I don't need top end stuff......but the good stuff is sooooo much better at times...I only work on my own projects for fun so I am not pressured for speed..........plus I just broke my foot......so I'm out for a few months.....the debate continues......

 

[tarbellb]

If money is tight go bandsaw.
I promise you don't want to buy 14" carbide blades... ask me how I know.

 

[dr_clyde]

It always amuses me to what lengths guys here will go to avoid using a bandsaw.

Without exception, every single "dry cut" saw I've ever seen, used, or been around has been a LOUD, messy, expensive way to cut steel. A bandsaw will cut everything a home shop guy will ever want to cut, quietly and accurately without flinging razor sharp chips all over the shop and making you deaf in the process. And bandsaw blades are a heck of a lot cheaper than these carbide toothed 14" blades.

A simple portaband will cut a LARGE portion of what a home shop guy needs, and if you're even a little clever with some jigs or fixtures you can pretty easily repeat miters with them for only a few hundred bucks. The SWAG stand and some simple guides make it very easy to cut shapes and miters on things.

Obviously if space and funds allow a horizontal saw with a swivel head or vise is much better, but not everyone can justify one.

One of the HEM Saw 782XL benchtop saws would be my choice if I had to have something with a base. They're under $800 and are made by a company that makes industry known and respected saws.

If you have the space, power and money a proper cold saw is the best way to miter things, but it seems most home shop guys are unwilling to spend much money on sawing. I get it, not for everyone, but once you experience the ease and power of a nice cold saw it's hard to ever think about going back to one of the dreaded dry cut monsters.

 

[ez-duzit]

It always amuses me to what lengths guys here will go to avoid using a bandsaw.

Without exception, every single "dry cut" saw I've ever seen, used, or been around has been a LOUD, messy, expensive way to cut steel. A bandsaw will cut everything a home shop guy will ever want to cut, quietly and accurately without flinging razor sharp chips all over the shop and making you deaf in the process. And bandsaw blades are a heck of a lot cheaper than these carbide toothed 14" blades...

Good one.

And a quality bi-metal bandsaw blade lasts and lasts, even on stainless steel.

 

[whateg01]

It always amuses me to what lengths guys here will go to avoid using a bandsaw.

Without exception, every single "dry cut" saw I've ever seen, used, or been around has been a LOUD, messy, expensive way to cut steel. A bandsaw will cut everything a home shop guy will ever want to cut, quietly and accurately without flinging razor sharp chips all over the shop and making you deaf in the process. And bandsaw blades are a heck of a lot cheaper than these carbide toothed 14" blades.

A simple portaband will cut a LARGE portion of what a home shop guy needs, and if you're even a little clever with some jigs or fixtures you can pretty easily repeat miters with them for only a few hundred bucks. The SWAG stand and some simple guides make it very easy to cut shapes and miters on things.

Obviously if space and funds allow a horizontal saw with a swivel head or vise is much better, but not everyone can justify one.

One of the HEM Saw 782XL benchtop saws would be my choice if I had to have something with a base. They're under $800 and are made by a company that makes industry known and respected saws.

If you have the space, power and money a proper cold saw is the best way to miter things, but it seems most home shop guys are unwilling to spend much money on sawing. I get it, not for everyone, but once you experience the ease and power of a nice cold saw it's hard to ever think about going back to one of the dreaded dry cut monsters.

Or if you don't want to wait 3 minutes to make a cut. Oh wait that's the bandsaw that makes slow cuts. If I could only have one, I would opt for a bandsaw, and did. But my evolution has been well worth the money spent on it.

 

[Jswain]

Or if you don't want to wait 3 minutes to make a cut. Oh wait that's the bandsaw that makes slow cuts. If I could only have one, I would opt for a bandsaw, and did. But my evolution has been well worth the money spent on it.

A 3 minute cut that I don't have to stand at the saw, wearing a faceshield...my favorite part of a band saw. Gives me time to prep/clamp/tack the other pieces.

I liked the portaband too, and had it built into a table but the 4x6 makes productivity a helluva lot better.

 

[dr_clyde]

Or if you don't want to wait 3 minutes to make a cut. Oh wait that's the bandsaw that makes slow cuts. If I could only have one, I would opt for a bandsaw, and did. But my evolution has been well worth the money spent on it.

I just set the feed and walk away and it shuts off when it’s done. Oh wait, that’s with real machine tools…

All kidding aside, not sure what you’re cutting that takes that long. I was just cutting 1-1/2”x 16ga sanitary stainless tube today and was averaging maybe 30 seconds a cut with the portaband? If that? Maybe you’re just not using the right tooth/pitch profile for what you’re cutting if its taking that long.

Most common tubes and structural shapes don’t take more than 30-45 seconds to cut on the bandsaw. It’s when you get into the big solids things slow down.

 

[ez-duzit]

My metal-cutting bandsaw (gear-head 7" x 10" Vectrax mitering) is one of the most essential machines in my shop.

 

[whateg01]

I just set the feed and walk away and it shuts off when it’s done. Oh wait, that’s with real machine tools…

All kidding aside, not sure what you’re cutting that takes that long. I was just cutting 1-1/2”x 16ga sanitary stainless tube today and was averaging maybe 30 seconds a cut with the portaband? If that? Maybe you’re just not using the right tooth/pitch profile for what you’re cutting if its taking that long.

Most common tubes and structural shapes don’t take more than 30-45 seconds to cut on the bandsaw. It’s when you get into the big solids things slow down.

Yeah like the 4" 4130 round bar that I had to make several parts of. Tbf, it wouldn't have cut in seconds any other way either. But when making parts to fit something it's a pita to wait for a part to get cut, fit it, wait for the next part, lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[tarbellb]

You definitely don't want to be cutting big solid stock with a dry cut.... bye bye blade!

 

[tarbellb]

Current deal on one of the best dry cuts on the market.
MK Morse 14" $325 shipped via Prime

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHXOKI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Still would consider getting a new bench top band saw or used floor band saw first.

 

[Tomstir]

Being stuck at home has given me time to watch more videos about fabrication and stuff. Lately it seems that they all agree the big evolution is the way to go and all wish they had purchased sooner......better cuts, quicker, blades last for 1000's of cuts.....they all can't be shills....can they? So I start thinking of maybe purchasing one of those......then the DR and tarbellb bring me back to band saw land!!! I have a small vertical band saw for plate and odd cuts, I just want a better way of cutting box tubing and such with an ability to miter.

Current deal on one of the best dry cuts on the market.
MK Morse 14" $325 shipped via Prime
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHXOKI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Still would consider getting a new bench top band saw or used floor band saw first.

I know that you posted that only 1.5 days ago but that link shows $479 and only 2 left in stock.
Maybe I need to get both!!!!

 

[tarbellb]

That MKmorse went quick fast and in a hurry it looks like

Ive owned the 14" Evo, its a great saw, likely the best price point dry cut on the market. But still, I am sold on bandsaws.

Dry cuts are good for quick production type work, yes they are quicker, yes they are accurate, but they throw hot chips (you WILL get burned w/o ppe), they are loud, and they are prone to blade failure. I used my dry cut for years in a small production shop, ive gone through LOTS of blades.

Bandsaws are cheaper to operate, easier to use, and yield similar if not better results.

 

[mogandave]

For "cutting" nineties on steel angle, channel, round and flat bar, I think it's pretty tough to beat an iron worker.

Miters on steel tubing & bar that requires a clean, burr-free cut, I think a cold-saw is best.

Bigger stuff of all profiles, or one saw does all, horizontal band-saw.

We had a couple of these (ours were older models than these though) in daily production for at least ten years and they were great. The saw rotates instead of the work so set-ups and material handling/storage is easy, quality quick-vice was standard, and the best chip & coolant control I've seen on a bandsaw. And (at least when we got them) they were cheap. Not sure if they are available in the US.

Ergonomic 320.258 DG

Ergonomic 320.258 DG A gravity bandsaw with a robust cast-iron arm and 27 mm high saw band. The machine is equipped with a large rotary table, which is a good basis for processing short pieces of material. Table synchronously rotated with the arm and so there is no initial cut of the belt to the...

bomar-saws.com

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Bringing up and old thread, but after my smoke stack project, I watched youtube videos of this new miter saw and dreamed about how it could have done the project easy. I know I said I wouldn't unless it made me money, but I want it!

 

[whateg01]

Looking at it, I don't think it would be terribly difficult to convert one. Just have to make sure everything is solid enough. About like putting a regular horizontal bandsaw bow on a swiveling base to make a swivel head saw.