Metal cutting saw - long handle

[tonyprovo723]

Anyone know of a long handle saw to cut metal. 3/8 - 1/2 threaded rod actually from masonry anchors. Might be stainless hardware. I have to reach out along the side of a chimney to cut some fasteners. Approximately 4 feet out horizontally or I can get on the chimney and reach down approximately 12- 15 feet.

I'm thinking of a pole saw prefer powered maybe a long stick for a reciprocating saw?

TIA

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[Milton Shaw]

Any kind of extension that long is going to make the recip saw shake like crazy, because it weighs so more than just a saw blade that it is designed for. I don't know if something like a grit saw with two ropes and someone outside and inside pulling back and forth would work but that would be an option. Something like the chainsaw/rope combo you throw over a limb.

 

[zkling]

BTDT, I welded a hack saw to a piece of black pipe. I was cutting pieces off of an antenna.

If I was you, I would go for the 4' horizontal route.

 

[NC Rick]

That sounds like a PITA! I think the recip. saw on a stick will be uncontrollable. A porta-band on a stick from below and above (two people)? I hope you post about the solution. I’m too lazy to try an extended hacksaw and getting cut pressure will be hard.

 

[tonyprovo723]

Thanks - you guys are confirming thoughts. Stay Tuned-

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[metaleltr]

They make cutting torches that are about 3ft long

 

[BukitCase]

If they ARE stainless, a cutting torch will just make a mess - Also, unless you find a "you ****" deal, one of the "demo" torches can cost several hundred $$$.

Maybe a small (4-1/2") side grinder, clamp it on a 7 or 8' piece of 1" EMT with TWO large geared hose clamps (so it won't shift on the conduit), then put a thin cutoff disk on it, lock the trigger on, keep the back end of the conduit under your arm, STAY CENTERED ON THE LADDER and only extend the grinder - support the grinder enough so it doesn't try to "dig in" and end up pulling you off the ladder...

You can tell by the length of EMT that I'm recommending the "side" delivery. That should keep the "pole" of your "pole grinder" fairly easy to control.

The cutoff disk will cut thru stainess, but it'll be slower than if it's regular steel; the sparks will be pretty orange if it's stainless -
https://www.welding.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/404.jpg

HTH... Steve

 

[larry_g]

Maybe a small (4-1/2") side grinder, clamp it on a 7 or 8' piece of 1" EMT with TWO large geared hose clamps (so it won't shift on the conduit), then put a thin cutoff disk on it, lock the trigger on,
https://www.welding.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/404.jpg

HTH... Steve

This is what I would try. I would weld up a piece of flat iron to the pole so that I could run a bolt through the flat iron and into the side handle hole of the grinder to give a solid mount. The flat iron could also be a U shape so that you could bolt into both side handle holes if the grinder has them. I would also have the plug near so that you can shut things down if things go awry.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[tonyprovo723]

We had a quick window open to test using this so I threw together last night a PVC handle on a saw handle. Stanley Fat Max saw handle meant to hold hack saw and reciprocation saw blades. $5-15 online. Looks like a drywall - jab saw. I inserted it in the bell end of electrical pvc conduit. I think it was 1" and heated it. The bell end collapsed snug around the handle. Not tight but snug. I then threw a couple self tapping screws in it. I made it about 5 foot long. My guys using laughed but said it worked. They used a 9" Milwaukee blade. They cut 2 of the 8 fasteners this way. The others where challenging and to reach and might be done on ladder or with a longer stick of PVC. Test wise, it looks like it will work for the project.

 

[tonyprovo723]

BTW- thanks for the ideas.

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[tonyprovo723]

Here is a close up of the head. PVC is only slightly scorched.


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[NC Rick]

Did it do the job? Sounds hard to get down-force with.