The 8" Milwaukee is 300~ish and far more practical overall.His blade alone is $100. Then pulleys and a link belt he's already there.
I could see it for ripping thinner sheet metal,1/8 and less, into strips.It's certainly a cheaper option than a shear. OTOH my nibbler with an aluminum straight edge will eat some sheet metal up quick.Dies and punches are cheap.
We have that saw too. Bought it after the table saw. It's nice, and great for the big stuff, it doesn't cut as straight and the blades are easy to mess up. This saw cuts much more accurate. Our blade was only $42, as seen on Amazon. All of the other stuff was lying around, so for us, the price was right. The good milwaukee blade (which my dad broke) is a lot better than the $25 Oshlun" Blade for the skill saw. The Endurance blade costs more than this one though, at $60.
For aluminum I swap in a regular 100 tooth cross-cut wood low-rake wood blade. You can cut aluminum on a regular unmodified table saw, it might stink a bit though.
Cool build. Wonder if it would be possible to slow the blade enough on a standard table saw with pullies alone.
Yes. As said though, you will have to find a way to reduce the depth of cut to keep it from hitting the table. If I did it again, I would just switch motors, and maybe do a 1 to 1 pulley.
Yes, at the loss of some depth of cut. The larger the driven pulley, the less the blade can be raised before the pulley and belt contact the bottom of the table.
For sheet and plate, this wouldn't be a problem. Only on larger diameters of pipe would the tablesaw run out of cut depth.
FWIW, I just built a fence using 2.5" thick wall pipe as posts and rails. The guy helping me has a steel chop saw with a 14" carbide blade and it turns about a thousand RPM. Makes a helluva racket, cut slow, but then, it's doing a lot of work on that pipe.
jack vines
Yep. This one should be spinning at 1150RPM (I went and calculated it correctly). I would like the additional height, but I would have to re-make my fence as I would cut it in half .
Not bad at all, and he seemed well informed on safety and proper cutting methods.
No woodworker will ever do this to there own TS, or put into a wood shop with those chips flying. But the guy with a old TS sitting around and a 1750rpm motor in the corner....
10" ferrous metal cutting blades can be had for ~$40-60.
Thanks. It's kind of inherently dangerous as it spits hot chips right at your face. When I operate it, I always wear safety glasses, a face shield, ear muffs, and sometimes gloves. No scares yet. Also, unlike chop saws, there is no direct connection between the blade and the work. It's up to you to stop a kickback, were it to happen. (And inertia helps a lot)
Love it... I'd put a floating guard over the blade personally but the idea is sound.
That's not a bad idea... It might limit large work, but I just might do that.
