Metal Fabrication

[vdotmatrix]

I am modifying a wood splitter to mount vertically on my Kubota. I will weld a cross bar for the side attachment point and making tabs to weld to the top where a pin can be unserted.

the tabs will be 3/8” thick and the clevis pin should be about 3/4” in diameter.

question(s)

• If the pin is 3/4”, should the hole be 3/4” or slightly larger 13/16”?
  
  
• should i use a 3/4” bit, hole saw or oxy-acet torch?

 

[RoninB4]

...

 

[bugnut]

vdot not sure which way you are headed, but the pins diameter on a cat 1 3 point are 7/8" and top link is 3/4" if i recall correctly.

I'd suggest using something like this as a pattern for your weldment.

3-Point Hitch Categories: From 0 to 4

Not every 3-point hitch is created equal; they have five categories, matched to the strength of the tractor where they’re installed.

www.hobbyfarms.com

 

[vdotmatrix]

vdot not sure which way you are headed, but the pins diameter on a cat 1 3 point are 7/8" and top link is 3/4" if i recall correctly.

I'd suggest using something like this as a pattern for your weldment.

3-Point Hitch Categories: From 0 to 4

Not every 3-point hitch is created equal; they have five categories, matched to the strength of the tractor where they’re installed.

www.hobbyfarms.com

This was very helpful. I sent a message to verify top hitch hole size before I begin fabrication. I removed the splitter from the trailer and welded a loop on the top. The green splitter image I borrowed….but this where I am headed. I will run hoses from the Kubota’s hydraulics.

 

[threepiece]

A 3/4 pin will not pass through a 3/4 hole without force. Typically I provide clearance depending on application. Stuff with deep holes that are left outdoors gets the most.

 

[tarbellb]

How are you planning to store this? Vertically or laying down?

I would be planning to store vertically, smaller footprint and will allow you to attach and go without manipulating first

You could incorporate the vertical foot into the design, depending on restrictions the cross bar could be foot? Will need to triangulate for stability.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My first choice to drill those holes would be a mag drill.

 

[vdotmatrix]

A 3/4 pin will not pass through a 3/4 hole without force. Typically I provide clearance depending on application. Stuff with deep holes that are left outdoors gets the most.

Ye, i was about to drill a 13/16” hole then i thought I should verify what the top link size is first.

 

[vdotmatrix]

How are you planning to store this? Vertically or laying down?dunno

I would be planning to store vertically, smaller footprint and will allow you to attach and go without manipulating first I HAVE A GIANT 40ft. I-beam with a motorized chain hoist across the way…easy enough to move around.

You could incorporate the vertical foot into the design, depending on restrictions the cross bar could be foot? Will need to triangulate for stability. ???

I have a 40x60 bld and have plenty of room.

 

[vdotmatrix]

My first choice to drill those holes would be a mag drill.

Nice! Can I borrow yours?
Hole saw or drill bit?

 

[tarbellb]

Shoot... I hate moving things around just to get going

Regardless of how you fab it up I would put a base on it so it stands or leans vertically.

****** and go, no moving 100s of pounds by hand

As for the hole, this doesn't require precision other the lining up. Grab a 7/8" hole saw (or 2) and go nuts. Unless your oxy skills are excellent, reaming out a large hole after is a pain

 

[NUTTSGT]

Nice! Can I borrow yours?
Hole saw or drill bit?

If you lived close, I would say to bring it over.

I would also consider sleeving the hole to prevent the tubing from wallering out.

As for a base, I would consider building a dolly for it to store it on. Make it hold it upright and moveable. Unhooking it so it's sitting right on the dolly. When you need the splitter, get the tractor close and move the splitter to the 3 point.

 

[vdotmatrix]

If you lived close, I would say to bring it over.

I would also consider sleeving the hole to prevent the tubing from wallering out.

As for a base, I would consider building a dolly for it to store it on. Make it hold it upright and moveable. Unhooking it so it's sitting right on the dolly. When you need the splitter, get the tractor close and move the splitter to the 3 point.

If you lived close, I would say to bring it over.

I would also consider sleeving the hole to prevent the tubing from wallering out.

As for a base, I would consider building a dolly for it to store it on. Make it hold it upright and moveable. Unhooking it so it's sitting right on the dolly. When you need the splitter, get the tractor close and move the splitter to the 3 point.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachments/img_1143-jpeg.2510787/
You gave me an idea about making a dolly.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Shoot... I hate moving things around just to get going

Regardless of how you fab it up I would put a base on it so it stands or leans vertically.

****** and go, no moving 100s of pounds by hand

As for the hole, this doesn't require precision other the lining up. Grab a 7/8" hole saw (or 2) and go nuts. Unless your oxy skills are excellent, reaming out a large hole after is a pain

The holes on some of the other equipment is about 3/4” so the pin must be smaller. That top pin must not bee so important.

 

[Wfallison]

FWW, holes for bolted connections are typically 1/16" larger in diameter than the fastener shank.

 

[Gutman]

Regarding hole size vs pin size, I've pondered that same question often, especially after I've finished fabricating something and I found out that I should have taken into account things like criticality of alignment, play or slop of the attachment points, coatings/paint/powedercoat, etc as it always seemed like it became harder to ream out an 'undersized' hole after the fact.

So now try to go at least a 16th, if not an 8th over for those reasons. I've also worked to standardize the necessary pin size for all my implements and attachments because I have found myself in a situation more than once with the oversized pin for the undersized hole.

Before I got a mag drill, I'd use a hole saw, as my torch work leaves something to be desired. A friend is pretty good with one but he uses a washer as circle guide.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Regarding hole size vs pin size, I've pondered that same question often, especially after I've finished fabricating something and I found out that I should have taken into account things like criticality of alignment, play or slop of the attachment points, coatings/paint/powedercoat, etc as it always seemed like it became harder to ream out an 'undersized' hole after the fact.

So now try to go at least a 16th, if not an 8th over for those reasons. I've also worked to standardize the necessary pin size for all my implements and attachments because I have found myself in a situation more than once with the oversized pin for the undersized hole.

Before I got a mag drill, I'd use a hole saw, as my torch work leaves something to be desired. A friend is pretty good with one but he uses a washer as circle guide.

I learn so many tips from you guys. Thanks!

 

[JuncleJohn]

Tape measures are inadequate for measuring bolts, pins and holes. Get yourself some calipers and a decimal chart.

Clearance holes vary with pin or fastener size. 1/32 is typical for 1/4“bolt, 1/16 for a 3/4”, 1/8 for 1-1/4“ etc.

John

 

[vdotmatrix]

Tape measures are inadequate for measuring bolts, pins and holes. Get yourself some calipers and a decimal chart.

Clearance holes vary with pin or fastener size. 1/32 is typical for 1/4“bolt, 1/16 for a 3/4”, 1/8 for 1-1/4“ etc.

John

I had my mechanic measure this as I am not on the property.

 

[DAWrench]

Slightly oversize holes on 3pt equipment are your friend. A little slack doesn't hurt and makes getting the pins in WAY easier!!!

 

[vdotmatrix]

Since this is a custom project I am going to wait until I get back to personally measure the top link’s hole and span width, use a drill press to accurately drill the holes and weld the bracket to fit the right length pin. Thanks for everyone’s help….

 

[Lassen Forge]

Following, as I have attachments to make now that we have our crawler coming. You want some slack on 3 point attachments - I'd at least drill to 25/32nds otherwise you will have issues with your pins binding. You can always ream out if it's still sticky.

 

[vdotmatrix]

Following, as I have attachments to make now that we have our crawler coming. You want some slack on 3 point attachments - I'd at least drill to 25/32nds otherwise you will have issues with your pins binding. You can always ream out if it's still sticky.

Thank you…

 

[bugnut]

typically drilling a hole with shop equipment will produce a slightly oversize hole if that is not oversize enough, a trick to enlarge a hole in mild steel or lesser materials is to toss a rag into the hole drilling process, this will cause the drill to run slightly off center and create an oversize hole.

if this were my project, the top link holes would be a pair of gusset plates bought on line and delivered to me, as plates of all sizes and shapes with holes are available in an variety of places. example below or if i really wanted to work a piece of channel appropriate width to fit the existing top clink connector drilled thru

Gusset - 3/4" Hole - 3.25mm Thick

Check out the deal on Gusset - 3/4" Hole - 3.25mm Thick at JBugs.com

www.jbugs.com

for the lower 7/8 pin attachment the draw bar shown will work well and readily available, made to fit standard tractor 7/8 pins, this will only see the load weight of the assembled log splitter. Even cheaper might be angle iron with tabs on the end with holes already drilled again bought and delivered ready to weld. ebay and google search will yield materials required

for storage the idea of moving around the shop has great merit but it will be top heavy. Being lazy a trip to HF for either a hand truck that becomes a permanent holder or if you're not moving often a furniture dolly, be careful and secure if storing upright

Good luck!

 

[vdotmatrix]

typically drilling a hole with shop equipment will produce a slightly oversize hole if that is not oversize enough, a trick to enlarge a hole in mild steel or lesser materials is to toss a rag into the hole drilling process, this will cause the drill to run slightly off center and create an oversize hole.

if this were my project, the top link holes would be a pair of gusset plates bought on line and delivered to me, as plates of all sizes and shapes with holes are available in an variety of places. example below or if i really wanted to work a piece of channel appropriate width to fit the existing top clink connector drilled thru

Gusset - 3/4" Hole - 3.25mm Thick

Check out the deal on Gusset - 3/4" Hole - 3.25mm Thick at JBugs.com

www.jbugs.com

for the lower 7/8 pin attachment the draw bar shown will work well and readily available, made to fit standard tractor 7/8 pins, this will only see the load weight of the assembled log splitter. Even cheaper might be angle iron with tabs on the end with holes already drilled again bought and delivered ready to weld. ebay and google search will yield materials required

for storage the idea of moving around the shop has great merit but it will be top heavy. Being lazy a trip to HF for either a hand truck that becomes a permanent holder or if you're not moving often a furniture dolly, be careful and secure if storing upright

Good luck!

i like the idea of buying made but i enjoy fabrication.