You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Metal frame garage?
- Thread starter lumpy790
- Start date
rockettgpw
Well-known member
The type of steel frame you have pictured is only any good if it is inside a brick wall and lined with sheet rock or other panelling.
That system is used a lot here in Australia for housing(your pic looks to be an Aussie building site) with the advertising that it is termite proof and recyclable at the end of the buildings life. Supposed to be quicker to build.
These houses are ****, The main reason is that they too readily conduct heat regardless of what insulation is fitted. Its common here for black or slate grey steel roofs to be fitted which **** in the heat from the sun and conducts it down to the ceiling frame and gives you a nice big heater above your head in summer. Does the reverse in winter.
The frames have only enough strength to hold up themselves and the needed panelling. They are a pain to mount anything to the walls. There is no strength in the trusses for loft storage and they are a ***** to climb through to install services and ducting.
For the size you are building, the bracing would be very critical and 30' seems a long way for a light gauge bolted truss. Used in houses, the interior walls provide bracing as part of the wall frame. in a garage you only have the back wall to resist racking.There are no poles set into the ground for stability, the frame is just ramsetted into the slab.
Yes I hate them with a passion.
That system is used a lot here in Australia for housing(your pic looks to be an Aussie building site) with the advertising that it is termite proof and recyclable at the end of the buildings life. Supposed to be quicker to build.
These houses are ****, The main reason is that they too readily conduct heat regardless of what insulation is fitted. Its common here for black or slate grey steel roofs to be fitted which **** in the heat from the sun and conducts it down to the ceiling frame and gives you a nice big heater above your head in summer. Does the reverse in winter.
The frames have only enough strength to hold up themselves and the needed panelling. They are a pain to mount anything to the walls. There is no strength in the trusses for loft storage and they are a ***** to climb through to install services and ducting.
For the size you are building, the bracing would be very critical and 30' seems a long way for a light gauge bolted truss. Used in houses, the interior walls provide bracing as part of the wall frame. in a garage you only have the back wall to resist racking.There are no poles set into the ground for stability, the frame is just ramsetted into the slab.
Yes I hate them with a passion.
jbwilkins
Well-known member
This is one downfall of steel construction....
I suspect that all the electrical will probably have to be protected (EMT or FMC)....Just make sure that's factored into your cost....
.....The main reason is that they too readily conduct heat regardless of what insulation is fitted......
I suspect that all the electrical will probably have to be protected (EMT or FMC)....Just make sure that's factored into your cost....
Thank you for responding guys!
Contractor said pretty much the same thing you stated Rocket. The siding and Sheetrock tie it all together for strength. My Plan is 10 ft ceilings and insulating walls and ceiling. Maybe an office space in the attic. The metals thermal conductivity makes sence. Wonder how much condensation that will produce?
As for electrical it will probably need to use romex.
I am in SC so hurricane strength will be important too.
I am using this for my home based busines so half is going to be a warehouse with industrial shelving. Thinking about putting in a dividing wall.
Contractor said pretty much the same thing you stated Rocket. The siding and Sheetrock tie it all together for strength. My Plan is 10 ft ceilings and insulating walls and ceiling. Maybe an office space in the attic. The metals thermal conductivity makes sence. Wonder how much condensation that will produce?
As for electrical it will probably need to use romex.
I am in SC so hurricane strength will be important too.
I am using this for my home based busines so half is going to be a warehouse with industrial shelving. Thinking about putting in a dividing wall.
Last edited:
73RR
Blank Email
If you fully spray foam the walls it will stiffen the frame considerably and it will be better at reducing transferred heat.
Check your local codes for wall sheathing requirements for the hurricane issues.
Check your local codes for wall sheathing requirements for the hurricane issues.
Assuming the building is sheathed on the exterior and had 5/8" Sheetrock on the interior, is it really that much weaker than a comparable wood stick build?The type of steel frame you have pictured is only any good if it is inside a brick wall and lined with sheet rock or other panelling.
That system is used a lot here in Australia for housing(your pic looks to be an Aussie building site) with the advertising that it is termite proof and recyclable at the end of the buildings life. Supposed to be quicker to build.
These houses are ****, The main reason is that they too readily conduct heat regardless of what insulation is fitted. Its common here for black or slate grey steel roofs to be fitted which **** in the heat from the sun and conducts it down to the ceiling frame and gives you a nice big heater above your head in summer. Does the reverse in winter.
The frames have only enough strength to hold up themselves and the needed panelling. They are a pain to mount anything to the walls. There is no strength in the trusses for loft storage and they are a ***** to climb through to install services and ducting.
For the size you are building, the bracing would be very critical and 30' seems a long way for a light gauge bolted truss. Used in houses, the interior walls provide bracing as part of the wall frame. in a garage you only have the back wall to resist racking.There are no poles set into the ground for stability, the frame is just ramsetted into the slab.
Yes I hate them with a passion.
I'm interested too. Can you do 15-18' high with 18ga metal 2x6s?
More than likely yes, but depends on location.
DAVE VAN
Well-known member
I have a simular building in Gastonia NC. Well insulated and it works fine for my shop/business. 15 years old and no problems. Come take a look if you want to.
rockettgpw
Well-known member
Assuming the building is sheathed on the exterior and had 5/8" Sheetrock on the interior, is it really that much weaker than a comparable wood stick build?
Both systems when completed as buildings with the same cladding would be equally rigid, I'm supposing here as I'm no engineer. Wood seems to be more forgiving of unexpected loads or impacts. The steel members can only flex a little before they collapse, eg bumping the wall with a car.
Our electrical systems, U.S. - Australia, are very different, But here the metal frames are earthed and the last I knew, all circuits had to be RCD protected. We use pvc/pvc cable, with no conduit used for domestic, so all cut penetrations are to be bushed. The frames come with punched and rolled holes.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Since you have to have hurricane rating, look into Muller steel buildings, my building kit was cheaper than my cement, YMMV!
Per HOA rules garage has to match house vinyl siding and shingled roof.Since you have to have hurricane rating, look into Muller steel buildings, my building kit was cheaper than my cement, YMMV!
If you go with Romax you will need a insulating sleeve everywhere the wire goes through a hole in the metal.
I am not impressed with any construction method that uses drywall structurally.
I was in construction in progress condo building once.
Fire code demanded steel studs.
You could grab a stud and shake the whole wall.
“The dry wall guys will stiffen it up.”
When I was back later the drywall was up, but the wall still rattled.
“The tapers will stiffen it up”
Later, in the model unit, the wall still rattled.
I am not impressed with any construction method that uses drywall structurally.
I was in construction in progress condo building once.
Fire code demanded steel studs.
You could grab a stud and shake the whole wall.
“The dry wall guys will stiffen it up.”
When I was back later the drywall was up, but the wall still rattled.
“The tapers will stiffen it up”
Later, in the model unit, the wall still rattled.