Metal framed miter station

[RLRoby83]

Looking at building a miter saw station out of steel with wood top. Not sure what size tuning to use to support the wood top. Looking to have cubbies similar to the picture attached. The hard part is the station will be 14' wide and I want to be able to roll a 8' x 4' assembly table under it. That means I need a 97" unsupported span. But the back of the station will be mounted to the wall at every atud. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[Kaizen]

I’d go to 2x2 tube. Maybe eighth inch or a little thinner. Make in two sections each with front and back steel that run the length. Tie them together front to back at ends and every four feet or so. Don’t attach to wall just make legs. If wood I’d say attach as it’s easy to undo.
Don’t build in one piece as never be able to ever move it. Easy to have clear span using the method. Not much weight on top

Edit..consider making the assembly table as two 2x8 tables on wheels with a snap hinge or sash lock on the ends to lock them together. Then build mitre bench to fit both under it. Make cabinets or drawers under assembly tables so when tucked away you have usable space. I can see having a four foot thing sticking out get in the way


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[matt_i]

I had a rectangle tube in mind for your long span.

The 2x2x11ga seems like a good place....but if you sourced 1x2x11 ga then you could double it up side-by-side and have 4 thicknesses working in the vertical direction instead of two when you look at the moment of inertia for the cross-section.

Other idea is take your plastic folding sawhorses to the metal supermarket and ask them to test out a couple of tubes on an 8ft span. Just sit in the center and check the deflection...literally by seat of the pants

 

[bad_idea]

I would build the frame out of 2x2x1/4" angle for the horizontal members and 2x2x1/8" square tube for the vertical members. Make the section the saw sits on bolt in between two benches and it will be easy enough to disassemble. Or commit and weld it up. I built my bench 14' long in one piece at my last house. When I moved I cut it in half, moved, then welded it back together when I got it in place at the next house.

 

[RLRoby83]

I came across some 2 x 4 x1/8 tubing at no cost. Buy wouldn't want it to be on end due to the height. I assume laying it flat wouldn't be very strong?

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[sberry]

How strong does it have to be? There seems to be some unwritten code here that verything has to be built tube and miter corners,,, I rarely use tube, pretty much only if I have to and use angle if I can and design mostly square cut.

 

[RLRoby83]

How strong does it have to be? There seems to be some unwritten code here that verything has to be built tube and miter corners,,, I rarely use tube, pretty much only if I have to and use angle if I can and design mostly square cut.

750lbs at least. Would like to be able to have drawers behind the fence. So more is better.

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[bad_idea]

The 2x4 should be fine. As recommended by matt_i, weight test a piece. Put it across a couple saw horses and load some weight on it. My bench built out of 2x2x1/4 angle has held 1000 lb loads no problem. The wood top deforms long before the steel frame sags.

 

[bigguns69]

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174998

Here is an idear.....

 

[tarbellb]

I would go angle iron, 2x2x.125", you can get away with 2x4 wood for the verticals.

Advantage of the angle is tying into the wood framing easily, use the angle to span your 97" gap, both front and back. Save money and use wood for the vertical pieces.

Unless of course you are a proficient welder, then burn away!

If you go tube, you can do 16g 2"x2" no problem. 1/4" wall is complete and total overkill money burner.

 

[RLRoby83]

Came across 30 ft of 2x2x.025 for free from a friend. Wondering if bolting a piece of angle iron to the wall with the horizontal on top then the bench frame resting on that be easier to level and mount than bolting the bench directly to the wall?

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