Metal garage damage repair

[Seturner]

My daughter has a metal garage that is 30’x 16’ x 13’ that was damaged when a tree fell on it. The roofing was destroyed in a couple of areas and one of the support posts and “truss” were bent. We had someone repair it but they use shorter sheets of metal to roof it. They also attempted repair on the bent support components, but there is a big dip in the roof now. Needless to say, it leaks profusely.

This is not going to be a litigated issue, so no advice here will be used for that purpose. I can source proper 31’ metal panels for the roof, but I need a new post and truss. They are 2-1/2“ round about 10 gauge. They also slip fit together. It seems the local metal building people are only interested in selling new sheds and not repairing. The second picture is after repair.
The person that repaired it said it had the dip in the roof because the tree knocked it out of square. How can I make this watertight?

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like the seam of the steel is right at the low spot. in any case, was there always a seam there or is that new from having new metal installed?
as far as the truss, have you asked the company if they will supply a new one(s) so that you can replace it ( them)

 

[Seturner]

There were full length panels before with no vertical seams. The repair guy said he couldn’t find the tubing.
I have been able to find new panels that are long enough to go from end to end (why didn’t he?) and I guess I have to find the bent tubing.

 

[DGersic]

Looks a lot like exhaust tubing. Got a local muffler shop that does custom work?

 

[readhead]

I think I used to sell that brand of building years ago and I can’t recall the name. They are out of business now. The pipe is not exhaust tubing. As I recall it was the same as fence tubing. The sleeves for the joints were 8” long pieces of tube with a section cut out so you could pound them into the legs and rafters and install screws to hold everything together. The system was kind of crude but it worked.

Seems like you should be able to pull and push everything back into place and install new sheeting. It will probably take more sheeting than you think because a lot of the metal probably got stretched when it was damaged.

 

[mikedodge]

The pipe within the pipe is part of the problem. It's not giving it the pushed out strength it needs from the pipe being solid.
It looks like you can see on the inside that the dip is also because that pipe is now too short. That crack at the bend is probably a weak spot too that might cause future issues.
That piping sort of looks like conduit but that might not have the same strength. You're best solution is probably to get in touch with a company that builds similar buildings and see if they can provide something or maybe see if you can replace that whole loop with square tubing. At least it can be cut and welded to the same lengths and angles.

 

[Seturner]

I think I used to sell that brand of building years ago and I can’t recall the name. They are out of business now. The pipe is not exhaust tubing. As I recall it was the same as fence tubing. The sleeves for the joints were 8” long pieces of tube with a section cut out so you could pound them into the legs and rafters and install screws to hold everything together. The system was kind of crude but it worked.

Seems like you should be able to pull and push everything back into place and install new sheeting. It will probably take more sheeting than you think because a lot of the metal probably got stretched when it was damaged.

From looking at Google Earth, on the Pro version you can scroll back in time, and this building was present at least since 1997. there are no labels anywhere. The frame is 10 gauge 2-1/2 tubes. Very heavy. The original roof had continuous panels about 31’ long. The entire roof was replaced after the tree fell on it, but are all only about 12’ long.

 

[Seturner]

The pipe within the pipe is part of the problem. It's not giving it the pushed out strength it needs from the pipe being solid.
It looks like you can see on the inside that the dip is also because that pipe is now too short. That crack at the bend is probably a weak spot too that might cause future issues.
That piping sort of looks like conduit but that might not have the same strength. You're best solution is probably to get in touch with a company that builds similar buildings and see if they can provide something or maybe see if you can replace that whole loop with square tubing. At least it can be cut and welded to the same lengths and angles.

I agree. The original pipe was severely bent, so they cut it out. I am willing to bet it bent the other angles in that piece too and the peak is now lower too. I agree replacing that whole rib would be best

 

[619DioFan]

The tubing looks similar to chain link fence tubing. You can get that at HD or Lowes. If you have to do this project yourself a 12 ton pipe bender from harbor freight will handle the bends. I found my 12 ton HF bender on CL for 15.00 bucks. Just fill the tube with sand , seal the ends with duck tape and it won't kink.

 

[Zeke]

Do you weld? If not even a lot of hobby welders understand what's going on there and can fab something.

 

[KenC]

It looks like the repaired 'truss' is also the location of the low spot. If so, I'd try this: remove the screws holding the metal in place except for a few at each end. Use a piece of lumber, 2x4 is probably enough to lift that piece that's splice in. Use a board slight longer than the floor to truss at the low spot. Notch the top of the 2x to fit over the tube and slip it over the tube and sit on the floor (or use a board under it if not a hard surface). Now use a heavy hammer to drive the 2x toward vertical. Cheap and effective carpenter's jack! Now check the roof dip. If it's gone, use screws to attach that repair to the original truss parts. That will lock it in place.

I'd do this before replacing the metal with a continuous part.

Of course one could sub a weld for the screws if desired.

 

[Kpaige]

I would source tubing of the same specs then make a pattern off the existing good ones and get a local shop to mandrel bend it. A lot of fab shops have the ability and possibly even a custom exhaust shop might be able to do it.

 

[nadogail]

Looks a lot like exhaust tubing. Got a local muffler shop that does custom work?

Maybe you could find an Electrician to bend some EMT, (Electrical Metallic Tubing), also called Thin Walled Steel Conduit

 

[jonesg]

good excuse to buy a pipe bender.

there are techniques to avoid filling the pipe with sand on youtube.

 

[Bert_]

If it was mine and I had the roof off, I would run 2x4's across the pipe rafters and put the sheets on the right direction like a normal roof.

The carports run the roof panels lengthwise because it saves a small amount of money.

 

[Seturner]

Some really interesting ideas I hadn’t thought of. Thanks.
it rained pretty heavy here yesterday and I was able to see where the water was coming in. It was dripping off the entire length of the vertical seams on both the low part and the normal part. That’s what I figured as there is nothing to stop the water from running sideways under the overlapping pieces.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ right, with that seam in the roof panels, you'll never get them to seal as the water will run under the seam & into the building. caulking would work for a while but it will fail and need to be re done on an ongoing basis .
if that was mine, I would get some steel tube equivalent size and cut & weld the damaged truss to be like it's supposed to be. also check the others for bends etc and fix them . but if you don't weld, that's no answer, I realize so you're at the mercy of others. lots of good suggestions above.