Metal Halide LED Retrofit WITHOUT ballast bypass?

[HoosierBuddy]

Hey guys,

I know, I know. I should bypass the ballast on my old security light in order to do an LED replacement...BUT

The fixture is 35 feet off the ground. As I don't have a 40 foot ladder, the only way I have to access it is to use an extension ladder inside my barn, on the second floor to reach a 28" square window that under the security light. Once I get to the window, standing on the ladder) I can remove the window, lean out of the opening and barely reach the bulb on the security light.

In order to have enough access to do anything else, I would have to climb onto the window sill (climb the ladder further, stick my entire torso out the window, spin on the ladder and sit my **** down on with my legs inside the barn 20 feet above some steps and the rest of me outside 32 feet above pavement)...and I don't think I have it in me to do that.

In any case...my question is does anyone make an LED replacement that can live with the ballast still installed, or should I just stick with a stock metal halide replacement bulb.

Thanks guys!

Phil

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

I hear home depot rents ladders.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[Norcal]

From a short term solution just replacing the lamp and then work out a plan to retrofit or replace the fixture later might be the best.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I hear home depot rents ladders.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

Good to know Kevin! DO they also rent pickup trucks to haul them?

PHil

 

[HoosierBuddy]

From a short term solution just replacing the lamp and then work out a plan to retrofit or replace the fixture later might be the best.

Yeah...that's kind of where I ended last night. I found a replacement metal halide at my local Ace Hardware and put it in and got the light working for the first time in about 10 years (I've been busy). Bad thing was the window that was built to be removable came out in pieces so I had to build a new window from scratch. Waiting on the paint to dry now and then I'll climb up there again and install it.

Nothing's ever easy....unless you own a bucket truck...because if I had a bucket truck, this job would be a cakewalk.

I just hate running that metal halide lamp. I think it was 250 watts. Good news is it's on both a dusk-to-dawn sensor AND a switch...so I can shut it off when not needed.

Phil

 

[CGT80]

Yes, HD does rent truck, but I don't recall if they have a ladder rack.


Of course, I always bypass the ballast when doing commercial lighting maintenance, but I can reach the fixtures with a bucket truck. Metal Halide isn't a terrible light and the amperage draw for a single fixture isn't too bad, so I would just replace the lamp with another MH.


Replacing the fixture with a dedicated LED unit usually gives better light than using a cob style lamp and rewiring. Some of the new LED drivers are **** and when they go out, the lamps will flash or just go out completely. I have replaced about 40 drivers from two properties that had poor quality drivers in the new fixtures. If you get a crappy one, you might have to get up there again.


You can rent a scissor lift or man lift and have it delivered, if you have access, or consider having a lighting company come out with a bucket truck. With that expense, I would replace the fixture with a good quality LED.



Another possibility is to attach an anchor point neat that window and use a harness to protect yourself while working at the top of the ladder or reaching through the window, and have a person on watch or a cell in your pocket should you need it. I know that I would rather be in a lift than on a ladder and much prefer to have the harness even at 30 feet in a bucket truck, as it adds some comfort........I hate heights.


Good luck and be careful.......maybe find a friend who doesn't mind heights and has a truck.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I just wanted to wrap this thread up with a bow by making a final update.

After I replaced the original metal halide bulb with what appeared to be an identical bulb from Ace Hardware, the light worked properly for about 4 hours, I shut it off, and it wouldn't come back on. I did note the light would flash a tiny bit when turned from on to off, leading me to feel the bulb was fine...and potentially the ballast had given up the ghost....perhaps because the new bulb didn't match the ballast? I have no idea as the old bulb had no markings remaining on it.

I contacted my local electrician. He came out and set up scaffolding and ladders, got up there and swapped the whole light fixture out to an LED one. It works great and is significantly brighter than the old one.

So...all's well that ends well.

I'm waiting on a bill. My wife said that they had 5 guys out there working on it. Not that it took 5 guys....I figure with the virus running around they may be a bit slow this week.

Phil

 

[Bert_]

I just wanted to wrap this thread up with a bow by making a final update.

After I replaced the original metal halide bulb with what appeared to be an identical bulb from Ace Hardware, the light worked properly for about 4 hours, I shut it off, and it wouldn't come back on. I did note the light would flash a tiny bit when turned from on to off, leading me to feel the bulb was fine...and potentially the ballast had given up the ghost....perhaps because the new bulb didn't match the ballast? I have no idea as the old bulb had no markings remaining on it.

I contacted my local electrician. He came out and set up scaffolding and ladders, got up there and swapped the whole light fixture out to an LED one. It works great and is significantly brighter than the old one.

So...all's well that ends well.

I'm waiting on a bill. My wife said that they had 5 guys out there working on it. Not that it took 5 guys....I figure with the virus running around they may be a bit slow this week.

Phil

Glad it's working.

Yes the bulb absolutely must match the ballast. Even going by the wattage can cause problems. To be sure you must match the ANSI code. This will be listed inside the fixture cover. For metal halide the code will start with M. A common one is M59 for a probe start 400w metal halide