Metal Panel cost

[3rdgendslmech]

Hey everybody, got a question for anybody that has ordered metal roofing panels recently (ish). I really want to finish the ceiling in my 24x32 pole barn this winter. Last fall and into early-Mid winter I made a makeshift paint booth on the inside with plastic and I was amazed at how fast my 24K mini split heated up and kept it at temp while I was priming and painting my truck. The walls except for 2 sections are finished off with R-19 and 7/16 OSB. So this is pretty much all thats left to be done. Once the panels are in I'm going to blow in enough insulation to get me to R30.
Tomorrow I'm going to email Wagler Steel in PA to get a quote for while 29ga panels cut in 8'3" lengths. They've gotta be a good bit cheaper than big box stores that want 50 a sheet and they're cut at exactly 8'.
Anybody have a idea what metal panels are going for from a supplier?

 

[like2wheel]

3 years ago I paid $1.67/lf ($.56/sf) for R panel from an Amish supplier. I believe it is 26ga.
I'd guess prices are quite different now.

 

[jack stand]

Iirc it's in the $3.50 (ft @36" coverage) range for good exterior metal. Ask Wagler if they have a "liner" panel. Often they get coil that has a paint or guage "issue" that is not a problem for interior finishes. It should be much less than $3.50 (ft).

 

[kj_mustang]

https://www.centralstatesmfg.com/find-a-distributor/

Check you area for someone that sells Central States metal. I bought liner panels from them for my interior.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

https://www.centralstatesmfg.com/find-a-distributor/

Check you area for someone that sells Central States metal. I bought liner panels from them for my interior.

PBS direct in Delaware. Found them the other night. Under $25 for 8.5' foot sections and they're on sale till the end of Nov. And they're a good 30-45 minutes closer to me.

 

[19D2P]

Don't forget you can (and should) go with a lighter gauge for an interior liner panel. Less cost and weight since you don't need the structural sheer benefit from a thicker gauge. I used Fabral interior on my shop and it was about 20% less than exterior panels at the time.

 

[Fishn1]

3rdgendslmech, if your close to Delaware, look up Tulls metal and lumber, they are in Whaleyville Md. I bought tin for my interior ceiling and it was reasonable. Been a few years ago, so not sure on cost Tho.

 

[larry_g]

I can go into my local building supply and they will order what I need with sheets cut to length.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Ended up going with PBS. Should be about a 3 hour round trip. Got 8'3" sections and 10' sections of J trim. Hopefully I get a call early next week and I can go pick it up on my day off next Friday. Total cost for everything was around 750. I added 3-4 extra sheets in case I have a mess up or I accidentally pick a vehicle up too far....

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Went Friday and picked up my metal. With everything that went on this past week, it was nice to go for a little ride over to the shore in the country. Stopped and talked to my uncle who I haven't seen much since his girlfriend ( might as well been his wife) passed away last year.
Anyhow, I probably wont really get started on putting the metal up till after the holidays....might get a little done the day after Xmas but we'll see. I dug out all my paperwork for the barn and found the truss build sheet. The bottom chord is 5psf. Everything I've been reading between here, google, and youtube says that between the metal and 10" of blowin in cellulose I'm well withing the 5PSF limit. What do you guys thing. I've kinda been run ragged this past week and originally my plan was going to be use fiberglass unfaced bats on top of a vapor barrier. I could do it at my own time, no rush and don't need a helper. Cellulose with a blower you need a helper and time.....neither that I really have. Plus all the reviews from the big box stores for cellulose are that the blowers are junk! That being said I did find a few posts that people buy the cellulose, fluff it in a storage bin, then throw it and level it out with a rake in the ceiling. Might be a little more time consuming but I can do it by myself at my own pace. Plus its A LOT cheaper than fiberglass.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

UPDATE: okay so last week I got 2 panels put up. First one went pretty easy because I it was a corner and I had the J trim to catch and hold it while I got some screws in. Second panel wasnt so fun. That being said I'm making a L shaped Jig to go from the floor to about an inch or 2 lower than the ceiling to hold the panels pretty close. Word of the wise to those who read this and are thinking like I did that "I just want the building up, I'll do the ceiling later....." It's easier to do it before you move all your **** in there and have to work around it. Not to mention I have to move electric lines for the lights, air line for the hose reel. I'm finally getting around to running the flood lights at the gable ends of the building because once the ceiling panes are in there's no going back lol.
Now I'm pretty sure between what everyone on here has said/done, it's pretty common to put plastic on the bottom sides of the trusses before you put the panels up right??? Some sites say its not needed.....some say it is.....from what I've read most of you guys are putting a V/B in. The cellulose I have has a fire retardent in it and from what I read that stuff is hard on metal making it rust.
If im lucky by the end of the weekend I'll hopefully have close to half of the celing up and possibly some insulation....

 

[HeavyD1]

When I did my ceiling a few years ago I bought a cheaper drywall lift from Harbor Freight and bolted a couple longer 2x4's on top. Made putting up the larger panels pretty easy.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Got another panel hung last night and put one bag of loose fill in at 10" (R30). I used a mortar mixer on the end of a 1/2" drill broke apart the bag into sections in storage totes and fluffed it. Took about 9 trips up the ladder and trying to get it spread out made for a lot of work. If I buy a dust collector from harbor freight, I'd still have to fluff it and I'd still need a helper to feed it while I'm up on the ladder. Then I'm stuck with a tool that I'll never use, and yeah I could try to recoup on Marketplace...... After doing some figuring, I think it's just going to be easier and less time consuming to use R30 rolls. The cost is going to just about break even

 

[PCustoms]

Got another panel hung last night and put one bag of loose fill in at 10" (R30). I used a mortar mixer on the end of a 1/2" drill broke apart the bag into sections in storage totes and fluffed it. Took about 9 trips up the ladder and trying to get it spread out made for a lot of work. If I buy a dust collector from harbor freight, I'd still have to fluff it and I'd still need a helper to feed it while I'm up on the ladder. Then I'm stuck with a tool that I'll never use, and yeah I could try to recoup on Marketplace...... After doing some figuring, I think it's just going to be easier and less time consuming to use R30 rolls. The cost is going to just about break even

Go rent a blower and do it all in 1 shot

Where did you get the insulation from? Most places offer free or cheap rentals if you buy enough.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Go rent a blower and do it all in 1 shot

Where did you get the insulation from? Most places offer free or cheap rentals if you buy enough.

So I got 4 bags at lowes the other day and I inquired about the machine and the guy that manages the lumber area said they have 2 units, one was broke, and the other has been out on rent for 2 weeks.
Like I said from the reviews, the insulation is great, but good luck getting a working blower.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Okay, I'm going with roll/batt insulation. Managed to scrounge up some help for a day but no luck at any of the big box stores on a working blower. 15" seems to be the standard width, that'd leave me a inch and half short of filling between the 4' O/C trusses or will 3 rolls expand out enough to cover that? Otherwide I'm running the rolls perpendicular to the trusses and cutting out where it lays over the bottom chord and some of the webbing.
Thoughts???

 

[HeavyD1]

The batts I used in that picture above were R38 for 24" spacing, I think the actual width might have been a touch less. They were up with no ceiling for a long time and never fell out, so they were relatively snug.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I've got basically 1/3rd of all the ceiling panels up after today. We got some cold weather and snow last week and work wore me out keeping up with broken equipment.
So being from Maryland it's a fairly common thing to have all 4 seasons in a week....sometimes the same day!
Anyhow this morning around 8am when I got down there to start working I noticed a pretty decent amount of condensation on the bottom of the roof panels. Temps yesterday went from 30s in the morning to 70 by noon and then back to 40s at night.
By lunchtime the condensation was all gone.
I got up into the attic area to have a closer look and there was only a few drops here and there where the condensation fell onto the vapor barrier. It wasn't the "rain" that some people experience. In the 7 years the building has been up this is probably the worst I've seen it. Is this going to be an issue once I put the fiberglass insulation in?
I've got full length soffit vents and ridge vents. The ridge vent does have those foam inserts between the ridge cap and roof to keep bees, bugs and small birds out. It's an open type of foam....think reusable hvac filter material.
I know it's to be expected during wild temp swings like we had, plus 8" of snow and some rain. Are the few drops that drip down on to the fiberglass going to be an issue or am I overthinking this?