This is the only way I will do it if the customer wants Romex. Flush mount never looks good even if you're fussy and is more work for everyone involved.
Metal roofing for ceilings???
- Thread starter Notgrownup
- Start date
This is the only way I will do it if the customer wants Romex. Flush mount never looks good even if you're fussy and is more work for everyone involved.
Raisedonadeere
Well-known member
I used white liner metal like in some of the pictures above. Seems like everyone who walks into my garage notices it and make approving comments. I don’t know if that happens because it’s not something they have seen before or what. Blown cellulose in attic. I am very pleased with the whole outcome.
Innovate1
Well-known member
I did surface mount light fixtures and used a step drill for holes for plastic bushings through the metal. I used the bushings that grip the romex and are used in junction box knockouts. The ceiling is a lot thinner but it worked ok. One hole got drilled a little oversize - I just used a small scrap of ceiling tin with the right size hole in addition. The flange was bigger than the hole so the back side was ok. It was just the catches that had a problem with the large hole. I have one ceiling outlet for a cord reel - surface mounted box screwed to the truss with the wire through a hole right beside the truss.
ddurrett896
Well-known member
Just finishing up mine now. Used 29 gauge Max Rib panels from McElroy Metals that cost $1.70 a foot.
Used a hand to help put up 16' J channel and did all of panels myself with a sheetrock lift. Handled 16' panels no problem. I'd use one even if I had help.
Had to adjust the surface mounted lights side to side so they lay between the ribs.
Used a 4" hole saw for the ceiling fan boxes. Could probably use shears but the hole saw left a clean hole.
Garage track support got tricky but there's an easy fix. Instead of the supports going thru the metal, I got the metal up and screwed, lagged an extra piece of angle iron to the bottom of the truss, then attached the support to that new piece. Gives me the ability to adjust the support if needed without taking down the panel or going in the attic.
Used a hand to help put up 16' J channel and did all of panels myself with a sheetrock lift. Handled 16' panels no problem. I'd use one even if I had help.
Had to adjust the surface mounted lights side to side so they lay between the ribs.
Used a 4" hole saw for the ceiling fan boxes. Could probably use shears but the hole saw left a clean hole.
Garage track support got tricky but there's an easy fix. Instead of the supports going thru the metal, I got the metal up and screwed, lagged an extra piece of angle iron to the bottom of the truss, then attached the support to that new piece. Gives me the ability to adjust the support if needed without taking down the panel or going in the attic.
For those of you that used metal in a smaller shop with lower ceilings, does it get really noisy and loud with echos when you are hammering or running loud tools? I'm thinking of lining the ceiling of my 24x30 garage with 10' ceilings. The walls will have cabinets and slatwall on it. My biggest concern is amplification of sound with such a low ceiling and metal.
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John in OH
Well-known member
No, I don't find noise to be a problem. I see a lot of posts were guys "think" it will be noisy, but it isn't. I would ABSOLUTLY use steel on the ceiling again!! NO regrets!!
Read through my garage build thread (link below) and you'll find multiple pics of the ceiling and ceiling outlets.
Raisedonadeere
Well-known member
I think I am getting less noise than with drywall. Someone suggested that the ridges on the metal breaks the sound up. Anyway my concern about sound vanished There is nothing goi g on with the sound that I can notice and my ears are very sensitive to reflected sound.
Thanks! My current garage had tape and mud slapped on the seams when the place was built and they walked away from it. Some of the tape is peeling, other spots cracked. I can do the metal for about 50% of what I was quoted to have it fixed and then I would still have to prime and paint.
I installed white 13'x3' panels (+/- 29 lbs each) in my shop ceiling. I used a scissor lift and did my best to keep the panels aligned. It isn't perfect by any means with the overlapping and such. That said, I would do it again. It cost about $2k in material and lift rental for a 40x50 shop. The finish is clean and highly reflective. My lighting is suspended from exposed conduit. It's still a work in progress but getting close.
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nadogail
Well-known member
My best High School buddy had 5V crimp metal ceilings in the house his father built in the 1950's. He told me that an architectural magazine later featured metal ceilings as a new developing trend.