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Metal Science Question

StangStang

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Hey all,

I have a project of adding an immersion heater to a water based solution to clean suspension parts.

The cleaner is: simple green aircraft & precision cleaner at a ratio of 1 part cleaner to 3 parts water

The immersion heater is: Briidea https://www.briidea.com/products/15...hmpFQ0yeoKVu2B98gZKqmxnHCWJM-O3al3ijDRUb--Ujk


My goal is to support the immersion heater (horizontally) in the container (parts washer) so it is elevated off the bottom and not sitting in dirt/grime and isn't heating the bottom of the washer.

I came across some info that suggested that the metal supporting the immersion heater should be the same material as the immersion heater itself to prevent a reaction (different metals touching each other). Since the heater is encased in titanium, I figured that I should find some titanium rod to support the heater.

Is the info above true or can I use steel or stainless steel to support the immersion heater?

Thanks!
 
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StangStang

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I like the tile idea.

I forgot to mention that the heater will be horizontal in the tank
 
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StangStang

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On Ebay I purchased rubber (silicone?) encased heating coils which you stick on the outside of tanks, like on the bottom of a parts cleaner.
Purchased mine to stick on the bottom of a compressor for outdoor placement in the winter, along with a thermostat.

Similar to this................they make them in many different wattages


Interesting. I am aiming to hit 105°F in the solution, would this option get you there?

The heater I have will work, I just want to support it.
 
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StangStang

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Part of me thinks that I can use some grade 1 TIG welding filler (Titanium) and make a cradle to support the heater.
 
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StangStang

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Exactly what does your parts washer look like ? Dimensions ? If it is a round drum you could use a band type drum heater.

Take a look at this:

Jeggs Parts Washer: Click Here



All, I appreciate the offers to find a different heater and your inputs. However, can anyone answer my original question about a possible issue with metal reaction?

Regardless of what metal I use, my plan is to TIG weld a cradle to hold each end of the heater and submerge the cradle and heater into the cleaning solution.
 
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StangStang

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I guess another option would be to use steel/stainless steel, and then wrap it with high temp fuel line. I assume the rubber can withstand the temp of the 1500watt heater surface.
 
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PCustoms

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All, I appreciate the offers to find a different heater and your inputs. However, can anyone answer my original question about a possible issue with metal reaction?

I think you're overthinking this, but look up a galvanic chart to be sure.
 
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StangStang

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I think you're overthinking this, but look up a galvanic chart to be sure.
Yes, I have been telling myself this. However, I did read about differing metals possibly reacting in this setup which doesn't help with the over thinking part..
 

LopezBart

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The electrochemistry of titanium seems complex, like that of aluminum; the passivation effects of aluminum and titanium can interfere w/ each other, for example, esp. in the presence of chloride ions. I'd go with either a titanium (same alloy if possible) or non-metallic support. Note that the surface temperature of the heater could be quite high; Teflon might be a good choice for a support since it handle 450F or so.
 

rlitman

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I guess another option would be to use steel, and then wrap it with high temp fuel line. I assume the rubber can withstand the temp of the 1500watt heater surface.
I wouldn't risk it. You run the chance of creating a hot spot, which can burn out the heater. That's a LOT of heat to reach 105F.
The less material you have blocking the titanium from liquid the better.

I don't think you'll have any corrosion issues connecting that titanium tube to a stainless part under liquid, but the liquid in question matters a lot. I'm pretty sure your solvent choice is safe, but until you test this scenario out...

Anyway, the last time I did something like this (a long time back), I used a perforated stainless restaurant steam pan to raise the element off the bottom of my plastic tank, but I was using a straight water bath. I got away with it until I went away and enough liquid evaporated that the heater breached the surface and failed.
 

PCustoms

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Until you tun it on.
I went back and looked, I thought both ends were plastic.

Really makes you wonder how hot this gets as you're soaking in the tub...or is there some warning to remove it before you get in?
 
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StangStang

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I wouldn't risk it. You run the chance of creating a hot spot, which can burn out the heater. That's a LOT of heat to reach 105F.
The less material you have blocking the titanium from liquid the better.

I don't think you'll have any corrosion issues connecting that titanium tube to a stainless part under liquid, but the liquid in question matters a lot. I'm pretty sure your solvent choice is safe, but until you test this scenario out...

Anyway, the last time I did something like this (a long time back), I used a perforated stainless restaurant steam pan to raise the element off the bottom of my plastic tank, but I was using a straight water bath. I got away with it until I went away and enough liquid evaporated that the heater breached the surface and failed.

I was thinking, due to the galvanic chart that PCustoms suggested I check out, that I could use some 3/16" think 304 stainless steel rod. I would bend 2 U shaped and weld then onto a rod spanning the ends of the heater to support it.
 

mm08822

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Part of the mfr's problem is that they can't control the customer......what is the solution, is the heating element fully submerged, what is the material being cleaned, what is the contaminant, temps?

So they are protecting their product life against all of those unknowns. All of the precautions posted will become forgotten/ignored over time.

I wouldn't use anything less than stainless steel 304 or 316L. Even the titanium will work but everything has a cost. A couple of triangular chairs could be fabbed up out of sheet material or even use wire neatly bent to make the chairs.

Some cheap stainless pans/strainers could be a cheap source for the material.
 

PCustoms

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Part of the mfr's problem is that they can't control the customer......what is the solution, is the heating element fully submerged, what is the material being cleaned, what is the contaminant, temps?

So they are protecting their product life against all of those unknowns. All of the precautions posted will become forgotten/ignored over time.

You realize it's a portable hot tub heater, right?
 

mm08822

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You realize it's a portable hot tub heater, right?
Nope.........but whatever. Changing the original intent of the product comes with new concerns that the end-user has to assume/overcome.
 
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