Metal vs Wood Studs

[kf4zht]

Anyone use metal studs in their shop builds? I am sectioning off part of my basement shop to be a gun/reloading room. Partially to hide what there, partially to protect it, partially to have a cool room. Looking at putting either sheet steel or concrete backerboard under the drywall for some extra fire protection and limited security.

I built one at my last place and just used wood studs, after that I am considering metal. This will be on a concrete floor, wood ceiling, walls are a mix of concrete, wood and mix.

Metal
Pros - Easier to do piecemeal and solo, don't have to move a ton of stuff
Cons - Either weaker (25 ga) or more expensive, not sure on hanging cabinets on walls

Wood
Pros - More familiar, easy to find, know that I can hang cabinets
Cons - Will have to move tons of stuff, probably need a helper

 

[Want2race]

Having cut off part of my finger fishing wires thru metal studs I don't like them.

The big gain is they don't have to be pressure treated.

The bad- wouldn't put load on them like wood.
If you anticipate hanging things from the walls I say go wood.

My 2 cents- wood studs vs metal with plywood over them- I'll take the wood!

 

[The Customer]

I myself like metal studs in basement applications Especially if you've ever had water problem. So much easier to dry things out. Wood is cheaper and easier to wire.

 

[Toxicscrew]

Just need to plan out your cabinets beforehand and add blocking to the areas that will have cabinets. No big deal.

 

[Michigan Mike]

If you'r going with metal studs and going to hang cabinets you need to know your cabinet layout and put wood blocking in for backing. Even if you use wood studs blocking makes it much easier to hang the cabinets. If you have blocking inside the wall at top and bottom of the cabinets you don't have to look for studs.

 

[Andybull]

If you'r going with metal studs and going to hang cabinets you need to know your cabinet layout and put wood blocking in for backing. Even if you use wood studs blocking makes it much easier to hang the cabinets. If you have blocking inside the wall at top and bottom of the cabinets you don't have to look for studs.

+ 1.

 

[kf4zht]

If you'r going with metal studs and going to hang cabinets you need to know your cabinet layout and put wood blocking in for backing. Even if you use wood studs blocking makes it much easier to hang the cabinets. If you have blocking inside the wall at top and bottom of the cabinets you don't have to look for studs.

That makes a lot of sense. I really would only need blocking for top cabinets, and chances are any shelves will be free standing with just a tip over anchor at the top.

Looking at it this evening I think the metal is the only way to go unless I want to move everything out of that side of the basement including ripping a few benches out

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

 

[cactiki]

I would not use metal, because I can't make up my mind, so I want to be able to move things around or do something different next year. But I live in the desert and don't have to worry about flooded basements. After trying to mount cabinets to metal studs at work, I just decided that was not the way to go.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'd run a PT wood plate between the concrete and the steel studs if going steel, to prevent rust. Yeah, I know it's electroplated but it will eventually rust out if there is any trace of water.

 

[James-W]

Depending on where you are buying the wood studs you may have to pick thru an awful lot of them in order to find enough straight ones to do the job. In the past I have picked thru some studs that were so green I swear if they were planted they would grow.

 

[MushCreek]

I used all steel studs in the house I just built. With the quality of wood these days, I didn't want to get my walls straight afterward. I used 20 gage studs, and the total was about $100 cheaper than wood. That's right- cheaper. I bought them from a drywall supplier- much cheaper than the big box stores.

They were a lot more work. I didn't like the results of the little self-drilling screws, so I used pop rivets. Drilling and riveting is a lot slower than a nail gun and wood. You have to put wood anywhere you want to hang anything, and around door openings. Electrical wiring and plumbing will have to have plastic grommets to prevent chafing. There are holes punched in the studs for this, but not in the top/bottom channel, so you have to drill a lot of holes if wiring is going through the top or bottom.

If I did it over again, I'd still use steel. They are light- you can carry a bundle of ten like nothing. They will seem very flimsy until the walls are covered. Finished, my walls seem just a solid as any stud wall.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... I love workin' with steel studdin',....

I can find Tons of it in jobsite dumpsters, 'n I weld it together,...

Super strong framin',...

 

[Lippyp]

I did all the internal walls in my holiday home with steel studs, much lighter than wood which was the big plus factor for me. I find them pretty quick and easy to work with once you get the hang of it. Walls seem solid enough, I did slice my hands a few times though as they can be ****** sharp.

 

[ratdoggy]

I vote metal as I did.
They are straight
Once you get the hang of them they are easier IMHO
No mold or termite issues
Easier to carry 10 of them

I sistered wood to metal studs where I was going to hang a TV You could space the sistered studs every 32" and put in a french cleat to hang your cabinets

 

[9GUY9]

I just tore out a few interior basement walls that were done in steel. I always thought the walls seamed kinda flimsy, or hollow. There was also a good deal of corrosion on them. I debated rebuilding with wood or steel. I finally settled on wood. It was easier and I am happy with the choice. Walls feel much more solid now.

Not to say steel studs don't have their place. Most all new commercial construction is steel studded, and the end results are nice. My particular problem may have been a poor instillation.

 

[Firebird 1]

Im a commercial contractor and used steel exclusively. 20ga if your wanting a bit more strength. Go to a commercial drywall supplier and you can get blocking that is made in sheets that is made to fit with metal studs. Comes in 3 or 4ft lengths. I would use recommended self tapping screws though, Im not sure if pop rivets have the same strength. I know my building insp would frown upon them. x2 on treated plates, the studs will rust with direct contact to concrete over time.

 

[kf4zht]

Is there anything you are supposed to put between channel and concrete? IE in GA they want that thin foam between the bottom 2x4s and the concrete on foundations.

I will have to contact a drywall place. Probably need enough drywall to make it worth ordering from them anyway.

Next I need to find a nice sturdy door that doesn't look out of place inside a house.

 

[ratdoggy]

I used tar paper under the bottom sill plate. and used a ramset nailer to mount the channel to floor

 

[Apex Structures]

Metal studs are very easy to use and best of all, straight. I framed my basement using metal studs for the perimeter and one partition wall. The electrician loved wiring the space because he didn't have to drill holes, they were already there. They definitely cost more than wood, but I had a ran into them for a bargain, so I went that route.

 

[shortykorte]

I used metal studs in my garage renovation. One because I had to (fire rating) and two because of all the pros listed above. I used the heavy gauge 2x6 studs and have built a mezzanine above without problems.

 

[gasgas17]

We always use wood in residential settings. In basements we use plastic decking under all our walls. Rip it the full width of the studs and drywall. It keeps all the wood and drywall an inch off the floor if you do ever get a little water.