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Metal Wall Plates

Teken

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The Bad Lands
Would like some feed-back as to the application of metal wall plates over the studs to protect the wiring in my garage. I believe for the very small price for these plates, the cost is well worth it.

To be honest I have been in alot of garages in my city and have not once seen anyone apply these plates to their build. I am in the middle of getting the code book for my local, to see what it states, but either way I know I am covered and not concerned.

Is it over kill? IMO, I believe there are too many variables in life and if something is going to happen it will happen. Why not take the extra time, and small amount of $$$ to protect life and property.

From The: Oh shiiiiiiiiiiiet, events from yourself, or others.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 

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jvitez

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Big Sky Country, Canada
AFAIR they're only required if the hole is drilled less than 1.5 inches from the inside edge of the stud, i.e. giving room for the drywall screws to not drill into the wire. Otherwise, not needed, but what's wrong with excellent as opposed to good enough? :bounce:
 

Aceman

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Eastern Oregon
If the drilled hole, not the cable in the hole, is less than 1.25" from the face of the stud, it requires a plate.
 

Sharps

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Although not required by code, I use the nail plates on every 2X4 that has wiring passing through it. Not only do I feel better about the work, I sleep better at night and for the few hundred dollars that it may take for house, it is well worth it.

Oh yeah, the inspector(s) are always impressed that I do this exclusively whether required by the code or not. Makes building easier if the local building official knows he doesn't have to sweat your work.
 

rodm1

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good idea and you will have no problem locating the wire in 15 to 20 years.
 
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Teken

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in garage/workshop i cover stud/nail plates all wire and air lines,crossdrill studs @ 30" off the floor ,and tell H/O totake lots of in - wall photos

Absolutely!!! :thumbup: Memory is short, 10, 15, 20 years down the line. Having photo's mean two things for me.

1. I know where everything is in relations to what I am working with, and where things can and can't be mounted / screwed into.

2. Insurance Coverage: My insurer knows what's in place and when a claim (God forbid it ever happens) will know right down to the material cost as to what is being replaced right down to that little metal cover plate.

Honestly, I don't know where I would be with out a digital camera these days. If I had to use a SLR camera with film in it, I know I could have never taken the 5000+ pictures of my build and all the reno's I am doing right now.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 

Motofixxer

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Yep I agree, use em. I bought the 50pk at HD. Works out to .18ea Chump change compared to the work involved in repairing a wire with a screw through it.
 

Norcal

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The trade term for those is "safety plates", wall plates usually refer to plates for wiring devices such as switches. They are cheap insurance.
 

Motofixxer

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Called "Nail Plates" here but some also call them "protector plate" I think they are actually stamped that too.
 
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Teken

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Yep I agree, use em. I bought the 50pk at HD. Works out to .18ea Chump change compared to the work involved in repairing a wire with a screw through it.

You know I looked every where for a bulk pack at both HD, Lowes, Rona Revy's none to be found. Would you have a direct link for the said item? As I could only find a 12 pack at my local timber mart.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 
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porschedude996TT

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Santa Maria, California
I got them at HD. Went thru three boxes of 100 each box. I put them over my copper air lines in the wall, all the wiring in the walls. I was overkill, but I didn't sweat it when the drywall crew sent to work. Way too much to loose. Thinking about having a screw thru the copper tubing months before i charged the system made me un-easy.
 
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Teken

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Must be the crappy HD in my area then. I went to all three in my city last month and couldnt find any bulk packs. Then again, if one could find a ****** soul to help a guy out maybe . . . Just maybe I could have found some !!!:mad::mad:

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 

Motofixxer

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I found the bulk boxes 1 shelf section down from the individual sold pieces. Why they don't just have them all together...I have no idea. The first time I bought them I asked if they had boxes. The guy says oh yea they are down here...
 

katit

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Just food for thought for those who take pictures of everything for insurance.
I sure hope you don't keep those pictures on your PC or DVD that you store in a house. In that case you may not have a proof when you need it..
 
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Teken

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Just food for thought for those who take pictures of everything for insurance.
I sure hope you don't keep those pictures on your PC or DVD that you store in a house. In that case you may not have a proof when you need it..


That is definately a great reminder for sure. In my case all important files, documents are held off site in a safe deposit box at the bank. All of the 24 hours live video feed is sent to a VPN off site which is also backed up by my 16 TB NAS device.

Back up, Back up, Back up . . .

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 

ddawg16

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My walls are 2x6...but I put them in anyway.....I was more concerned about drilling than a nail or screw....

And lots of pics.....

And we keep backup copies at the in-laws...and I have copies of their stuff....it's unlikely we will both burn down....if we do, the pics are the least of my worries.
 

metal1313

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clinton NJ
i wont buy them at hd, they are over priced last time i bought them. i go to fastenal, and online if i need them. i use them over wires, water pipes, and other plumbing. you can never count on what someone else will do. ive seen 4in nails for holding pictures
 

Costner

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No offense, but using protection plates on every wire and on ever stud is simply a waste of time and money. If your wire (or hole) is within 1.5 inches of the face of the stud then by all means have at it, but assuming 1/2" drywall and assuming you are using 1 1/2" drywall screws that will only penetrate the stud by 1" so you are easily covered.

There are other places it will make sense such as a wire going through a stud at eye level or where cabinetry or shelving is expected to be installed etc, but for wire running at the typical 24" to 30" height, it isn't necessary at all because if you are thinking ahead far enough to install plates on every stud, you are surely intelligent enough to know there is a wire in that general area (and the likely hood of have a need to drive a 3" screw at 24" off the ground near an outlet and actually hitting the actual wire are miniscule).

For 2x6 exterior wall framing (standard for my area) - the need is even less. On top of everything else those plates can actually create a small hump in the drywall so that alone is enough for me to keep their usage to a minimum. I suppose someone could chisel a recess for them or use a router to remove some material from the face of the stud so they remain flush, but that is a tad overkill and requires an even greater time investment.

I could install five point harnesses and wear a neckbrace and helmet when driving to get groceries too - but it doesn't make much sense to go overboard for what might happen or could in theory occur. If you were building a house to account for every possible problem which might ever occur, it would be 300 square feet in size and would cost $450,000 to build it.
 

Motofixxer

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Costner, I understand completely what your saying. And agree to a point. But for me personally, I will just go with the small investment in time and material. Especially in my garage where I never know what kind of bracket, shelf, cabinet or device I may want to install in the future in that general location. I can easily see a bracket I might want to install to hold something using a 3" screw. My wiring is pretty horizontal all the way around, but due to double studs nailed together or knots in the studs. The wiring changes height slightly in a few places. So for safety and minimal damage, I'm going to use the nail plates for additional protection. That's a choice we each get to make when we build. I have seen a few pro electricians that install them on every stud too. I bet they don't do it because they have to. They just don't want to deal with fixing something later. Or maybe they just know the sheet rockers around here :wtf:
 

Kevin54

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No offense, but using protection plates on every wire and on ever stud is simply a waste of time and money. If your wire (or hole) is within 1.5 inches of the face of the stud then by all means have at it, but assuming 1/2" drywall and assuming you are using 1 1/2" drywall screws that will only penetrate the stud by 1" so you are easily covered.

Check and see what local code dictates. It will vary from place to place. It used to be that if you had 2x4 walls the nailplates were required by code. If you had 2x6 walls they were not required by code. IIRC when I built my family room with 2x6 construction they were then required. Reason being that some contractors couldn't hit their *** with both hands and the holes through the studs varied considerably. Some would be too close to the edge. So it was easier to change code than to inspect every hole. Again I am not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure that was how it was explained to me only not in those exact words by the building inspector. Anyways, it's cheap insurance to invest a few bucks in nail plates. There has been many a house that has had electrical problems and/or a water leak due to piercing what was behind the wall. And you also have to remember that not every drywaller will use the same length of screws, and you will have the finish guy finish off trim with a nail gun and that finish nail may just pierce.
 

Sharps

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Although, some of the contributors here feel that it is unnecessary to use nail plates throughout a structure. Everyone should speak with the local inspector to see what is required by the County or City Codes. Some locales have adopted much more stringent requirements than others, because of problems in the past of the absence of nail plates on 2X4 construction.

I personally never want to worry about the phone, cable, speaker, air, electrical or anything else in structure being damaged by an errant nail, trim nail, screw or other Act of Installation.

YMMV, but for the minimal cost and the time it takes to hammer nail plates inside a structure with the wiring and options roughed-in, I will spend the extra time and money and not worry about it. It is also so easy to convince people a job was done well and exceeds all code requirements with photos that are taken of all the extra work, both hours of it...:)
 

PassnThru

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Bowling Green KY
Not meaning to hijack the thread but we are talking about nail plates. In my experience they are fairly thick and do effect the application of drywall somewhat. Does anyone actually slightly notch the stud to install them flush?
 

Sharps

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Not meaning to hijack the thread but we are talking about nail plates. In my experience they are fairly thick and do effect the application of drywall somewhat. Does anyone actually slightly notch the stud to install them flush?


I do not notch the 2X4/6 material. I have not found that the greenboard (water resistant) sheetrock that we use is not affected at all with the installation of the nail plates. When installed properly, I cannot tell the nail plates are behind the green board (and I am picky), of course this is not the thinnest sheetrock that Home Depot or Lowes tend to offer. I find that the extra $1-3 / sheet for the greenboard is also a well spent upgrade for a construction project. Buyers and clients tend to appreciate a well built, over-constructed, home or building if the cost is kept competitive. In the current market, with renovations and few new construction projects, it gives one a leg up on the competition.

I may have to sacrifice a little in materials, but the labor is essentially the same. So the extra $500-1,000 spent on a building is cheap insurance against call backs, damages, and helps the value of the building as they are generally indicated as "above average" or "superior" in appraisals against comparables.

HTH
 
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Teken

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To be honest I haven't noticed if there has been a problem with the dry wall not seating flush with the wall. Keep in mind that I am using fire rated sheet rock both being 1/2" to 5/8".

Then again the plates are at the top and the bottom of the studs, this may be giving me that even look?

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .
 
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