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metallic epoxy from cohills

Beeney24

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Feb 5, 2013
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just finished putting down some 100% solid epoxy w/ cheaper epoxy base coat with Cohills Quick silver-- and mixed in a batch of black onyx

here's the results so far....
 

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bdamico

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bad ***. was it what you were expecting? these can be a bit unpredictable.
 
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Beeney24

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They gave me alcohol to spray on at the end to give it a bubbly acidic look, which I passed on after we squeegeed it out. It was also recommended that we back roll it, which we passed on. The spike shoes was making marks with the spikes and straps, and the epoxy was hardening quick as it was only around 55* when applied. I did some research and found a YouTube video by concrete designs that I tried to emulate, except they used a light tan and a brown....think I may apply the top coat tonight
 

bdamico

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They gave me alcohol to spray on at the end to give it a bubbly acidic look, which I passed on after we squeegeed it out. It was also recommended that we back roll it, which we passed on. The spike shoes was making marks with the spikes and straps, and the epoxy was hardening quick as it was only around 55* when applied. I did some research and found a YouTube video by concrete designs that I tried to emulate, except they used a light tan and a brown....think I may apply the top coat tonight

don't wait longer than in directions--i think usually around 24 hrs
 
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Beeney24

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Too late. Just applied it....I'd imagine that stuff can go down anytime, hell its extremely tacky, got it on the handle...I guess we will see...
 
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Beeney24

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wow- talk about fumes...almost had to pack up and check into a hotel...

the urethane looks a little spotty-- and not uniform...does this go away ?? do i need to put another coat on it ? it's still tacky and has been 24 hours....
 

thegarageguy

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sounds like epic fail buddy. Sounds like something wasn't cured yt and you applied a top coat anyway. From the sounds of it, you will have to scrape it all off, solvent scrub it, possibly grind it off.

Would be best to research more before you apply any chemicals to avoid a disaster in the future
 
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Beeney24

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sounds like epic fail buddy. Sounds like something wasn't cured yt and you applied a top coat anyway. From the sounds of it, you will have to scrape it all off, solvent scrub it, possibly grind it off.

Would be best to research more before you apply any chemicals to avoid a disaster in the future
The epoxy went down perfectly, how could I have not waited long enough, if some people are saying to apply within 24 hours.

Anyways, I stopped by the store and purchased a 2nd kit of urethane top coat 450...which was recommended anyways, the only issues I have are seeing some places that are over coated with the top coat and some that was tacking up, the shop states it appears some moisture may be in there, I'm going to see if when it cures, it smooths out...if not they said to lightly sand and apply 2nd coat...
 

thegarageguy

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The epoxy went down perfectly, how could I have not waited long enough, if some people are saying to apply within 24 hours.

Because you stated that you applied the polyurethane while the epoxy was still tacky, which would be a huge mistake, regardless of what the can or anyone else says.
 
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Beeney24

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Oh ok...that's a relief, I must have mid typed, the epoxy wasn't tacky at all when I applied the top coat. The top coat was super tacky
 
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Beeney24

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Pic of metallic epoxy urethane coating
 

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hofiveo

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Feb 26, 2013
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First off, if the epoxy was left to dry over 24 hours before applying the urethane top coat you have a greater chance of inter-coat peeling. The 24 hour window for coating epoxy after applied is so there is a chemical bond between the epoxy and urethane. You waited over 48 hours to apply urethane so there is a greater chance of the urethane peeling up in the near future. With the tempature(Air?) being 55, floor may be around 45-50 degrees you may have slowed the cure process and caught just enough of the window, we will see. Urethane is not a high build material, it is a thin mil build material. At a certain thickness it will amber, crack and bubble. Most urethanes are applied at ~300-500 sg ft a gallon. My suggestion is get a 4.5" grinder and remove all urethane from joints and coat with solid color urethane. Tape off all joint edges and take your time. Good luck. Worst is you will have to sand off the urethane and re-apply, maybe apply another metallic epoxy coat if sanding messes up the epoxy to bad.
 
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Beeney24

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Feb 5, 2013
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Thanks hofive0-- it appears to just be the 2nd layer of urethane that is peeling, where the 4" curb meets the slab. The epoxy appears to be fine, i can remember in the area where it's peeling up there was a low spot and the urethane was puddling, it probably got too thick in that area...Would I be able to coat over that section in hope that it doesn't spread ?
 

hofiveo

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How long did you wait between first and second coat of urethane did you wait? Most materials have a "window" of recoat time without sanding before applying the next coat. If you do not apply that next coat say before 24 hours you need to sand floor for a mechanical adhesion. If you apply after the 24 hours without prepping it has a high chance of peeling up. If you apply material within the 24 hour window, no prepping required, just apply. It would help for you to detail the whole process of your installation from what method of prep, materials used, how you applied the materials, amount of materials, size of floor, application methods, times between each step of process, weather and application tools. Helps you get better answers and also helps the GJ. Not being a jerk just trying to help.
 
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Beeney24

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I waited 3 days before applying the 2nd coat...the temps went down to highs in the 50s, so I wAited a few days till it hit 70 again...lightly sanded the first coat before applying 2 nd---360 sf. Used the one gallon mixed with .25 gallon...oh well if the top coat peels it peels...
 
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