Meter base knockouts brittle AF

[wcp0611]

I bought a Talon/Siemens 400 amp meter base off ebay. No returns but why would I want to? Went to knockout the 2" holes and both sides had the 3" hole come out instead. I mean, I've hit knockouts before and never had a problem but these had incredibly strong welds on the 2" and seemingly small or crappy welds on the 3" ones.

Anybody know what is allowed by code on a meter base to adapt from 3" to 2" so I can still use this panel? It was a $1,200.00 base so I don't want to just go get another. I've seen the metal adapters, but I can't find anything that says they are okay to use on meter bases/outdoor panels so I leery to use them and have the inspector fail me.

 

[mm08822]

Some concentric/excentric KO's are delicate. Not uncommon to have to remove the smallest first and have to nip away at the next few with a pair of dykes to sneak up on the size you need.

If you are using pvc/cable coming out of the meter pan, then 2 reducing washers should be sufficient.
If metallic conduit, you with need the reducing washers and a bonding bushing.

 

[SlappyWhite]

Are you running conduit to the base? If so can you just run 3 inch conduit to it?

 

[wcp0611]

Are you running conduit to the base? If so can you just run 3 inch conduit to it?

I am running conduit, but the 200 amp panels its feeding on each side are residential panels so 2" is the max they go up to. Was hoping to just adapt the meter down to 2" and use the 2" conduit all the way.

 

[Norcal]

Go to a supply house and ask for a couple of sets of 2" X 3" reducing washers, don't bother with a big box store though.

 

[wcp0611]

Go to a supply house and ask for a couple of sets of 2" X 3" reducing washers, don't bother with a big box store though.

Went and got them at lunch today. I think I'm set.

 

[wcp0611]

One more question for you electricians, since I'm having a hard time figuring it out online. POCO here requires the ground from rods to connect in the meter box as I have done in the attached pic. This is how it is installed currently on the side of my house. Obviously, the neutral and ground are bonded at that attachment block. Do I need run a ground wire from this meter base to the 200 amp panels too? Or does the ground being bonded here carry the ground to the two disconnects via the neutral wire? If I don't need to run a ground to the two subs, then how to I wire the incoming grounds from the ser feeder to the central subpanel inside my house? Do the neutral and ground both attach to the neutral bar? I know, lots of questions, but I'm lost on this and the inspector is coming in about four hours so if I need to install something, I still have time. Thanks to all in advance.

 

[mm08822]

Since there is no ocp in this meter pan you can run 3 conductors to each building as shown in your pic.

At the exterior disconnect at each building, bond the neutral blocks to the enclosure. Each disconnect gets 2 ground rods. The grounding electrode conductor from the rods connects to the ground bar in each disconnect.
Each (sub) panel is fed with 4 wires from the exterior disconnect. Do not bond the neutral to grd in the subpanels.
(This assumes you have ocp in each exterior disconnect. Otherwise, slightly different answer once reaching each building.)

 

[wcp0611]

Since there is no ocp in this meter pan you can run 3 conductors to each building as shown in your pic.

At the exterior disconnect at each building, bond the neutral blocks to the enclosure. Each disconnect gets 2 ground rods. The grounding electrode conductor from the rods connects to the ground bar in each disconnect.
Each (sub) panel is fed with 4 wires from the exterior disconnect. Do not bond the neutral to grd in the subpanels.
(This assumes you have ocp in each exterior disconnect. Otherwise, slightly different answer once reaching each building.)

I should've clarified, this is the 400 amp meter base on the side of my house. The disconnects are sitting on each side of it about six inches away. One of the disconnects has feeder coming in from the back of it that feed two big panels in my house. Do I still need to run two ground rods and a wire into each disconnect?

 

[mm08822]

I should've clarified, this is the 400 amp meter base on the side of my house. The disconnects are sitting on each side of it about six inches away. One of the disconnects has feeder coming in from the back of it that feed two big panels in my house. Do I still need to run two ground rods and a wire into each disconnect?

Do each of these disconnects have a cb inside of it or just a knife switches?

 

[wcp0611]

Do each of these disconnects have a cb inside of it or just a knife switches?

200 amp cb up top and 'to be installed' breaker slots under it like a normal panel. Not a knife switch type.

 

[mm08822]

200 amp cb up top and 'to be installed' breaker slots under it like a normal panel. Not a knife switch type.

Ok, over-current protection is in both disconnects.

• Drive two grd rods 6' apart and connect both rods to each disconnect's grd block. Easiest way to do this is start at one disconnect loop through the 2 acorn clamps and then back into the 2nd disconnect.
• Bond each neutral to grd in each disconnect.
• If the disconnects connect to the meter pan with pvc then you won't need any raceway bonding.

Each sub panel (2 at house, 1 in barn) will need to be fed with 4 wires.

 

[PCustoms]

Do each of these disconnects have a cb inside of it or just a knife switches?

What does this have to do with it?

@wcp0611 how are the disconnects mounted/attached to the meter, do you have a pic?

I think I know the answer but I'm not a sparky so I'll wait for a bit more info.

 

[sparky 1971]

What does this have to do with it?

Bonding is done at the first point of overcurrent protection, not the first means of disconnect (which is what a lot of people think). Once in awhile, a knife handle non fused disconnect is used for the emergency disconnect, but i haven't done it nor have I seen it done. The bonding wouldn't be done there, it would be done at what would probably be a main breaker panel. In this case, since circuit breakers are used, that's where the bonding is done and the panels with all the breakers will be subs. It would be the same if fused disconnects were used, but that gets expensive in a hurry.

@wcp0611 how are the disconnects mounted/attached to the meter, do you have a pic

I think I know the answer but I'm not a sparky so I'll wait for a bit more info.

 

[walta]

How sure are you the meter base you bought is on your utilities approved list?

Some utilities are very picky about this and will defuse the install.



Walta

 

[wcp0611]

How sure are you the meter base you bought is on your utilities approved list?

Some utilities are very picky about this and will defuse the install.



Walta

It is. I had a meeting with the POCO before starting any of this and they gave me a list of meter bases I could use for 320 amps. I didn't do anything from what my pic of the base looks like before the inspector got there yesterday. He looked at it and quickly told me I'm definitely not an electrician and said the only issue he had was that the two disconnects didn't have the bonding screws. I located them quickly and put them in and he passed me. Said to give it until tomorrow morning and call the POCO to come out and inspect and run the new wiring. All that worry was for not I guess. I appreciate you guys answering my questions. I am almost completely done running wiring, etc to the new additon and panels. I'm just really, really wanting to get to drywall. Drywall will being a big, noticeable forward movement. Feel like the build has been at a snails pace since Sept.

 

[wcp0611]

Ran power into house and started working on the subs. Realized a big issue with the current panels in the house that I need to correct before codes comes to inspect as well. Long story short, the only way to fix this issue now, after I already ran feeder from the outside panel, is to run the feeder into a panel from the bottom. No big deal, but the neutral and ground will have to connect at the bottom of the bars, instead of the top of the bars. Is that a problem? Will codes care where I connect those wires? I don't have enough wire to run them to the top of the panel and I don't want to go buy a completely new wire to run into it or splice anything in that panel.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Is there lugs on the bottom of the bars that will accommodate the larger size wire?

 

[mm08822]

Can you flip the guts of the panels?

PICS??

 

[wcp0611]

Is there lugs on the bottom of the bars that will accommodate the larger size wire?

Not built in, but I added a screwed in lug to accept the larger wire.

 

[wcp0611]

Can you flip the guts of the panels?

PICS??

I don't have a pic, but its like all neutral bars in panels. There's a big, built-in lug at the top of it and below it is the small screws. I took out the bottom three and screwed in a lug to accept the neutral wire. The top lug had to be used for the output neutral to the sub feeding off this one. The wire from this panel, to the old sub I'm feeding power to is just long enough to make it to the top lug of the neutral so I had to attach it there.

I can't flip the innards of the panel.