Metric motorcycle tools

[iScream]

Anybody else wrench on your own metric bikes? I'm curious what tools you grab first when you need to do something. Anything I do to my Yamaha pretty much starts with hex keys and I'm trying to build some tools to make that as painless as possible.

I just bought a Motion Pro 3/8" drive speed wrench and now I need a good set of long hex bit sockets to go with it.

Really close to pulling the trigger on this Sunex set since it has regular hex and ball heads in the sizes I need. But I thought I would ask if anyone has a reason I should spend more for another brand.

I really want a set of t-handle hex wrenches too and I like the Klein sets I've seen but I think I'm gonna try out my speed wrench first and see if I still feel like I need something else.

Other than that I'm just interested in hearing what kind of specialty tools you guys may use that I haven't thought about.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Bagherra]

I do all my own work on my 2 GSXR's and my friends bike. A good 1/4" and 3/8" drive set and you can handle just about anything. Got a set of T-handle hex wrenches from HF and they haven't let me down. A basic tool set and you'll be good...
Get a decent torque wrench too..
As for speciality tools, I got the chain breaker/riveter from Cycle Gear ($40) and a couple of tools from Motion Pro.

Do you have front and rear stands?

 

[Yankee]

I work on my son's motorcross bike. A basic 1/4 drive socket and extension set and metric hex sockets pretty much can do most work.

I did purchase a 1/4 drive torque wrench. I tend to over tighten fastners and figured I'll pay the money up front to save a twisted off bolt in the block down the road.....

I don't tighten ANY fastener without it....

 

[speed bump]

On my Kawasaki It seems like 90% of it could be done with a 1/4" and 3/8" drive set. The BMW is mostly Torx and hex.

 

[wafrederick]

Harley Davidsons have a couple metric sizes used,10mm for the battery post bolts a 6mm hex in the front forks.

 

[rice rocket]

I really want a set of t-handle hex wrenches too and I like the Klein sets I've seen but I think I'm gonna try out my speed wrench first and see if I still feel like I need something else.

From the dominant tool brand of MotoGP...

You'll thank me later. They're seriously excellent, they're faster to use than ratchets and sockets. If all my tools went up in flames, I'd buy these again for sure. Nothing I've tried compares in comfort, the ball end is fantastic, lots of relief while still holding solid. I always feel like I'd snap the ball off before I'd come cam out of the hex head.

Tips are forged, which no one else does anymore apparently, not Bondhus, not PB Swiss, not Snap-On. They're not cheap, around $90 for the set up to 6mm, but it'll save you a lot of aggravation from rounding off fasteners.


I have a Ducati, which uses some ridiculous combination of fasteners, so anything else probably doesn't translate onto your Yamaha.

 

[AndyCBR]

All my bikes are metric and I have a Snap On flex head 1/4" ratchet as my go to tool. It usually has a long extension with a 1/4-3/8 adapter for the hex sockets, or an 8mm or 10mm deep well socket.

Second would be my long 3/8 SO ratchet for breaking loose brake caliper bolts, etc. (too big for a 1/4" ratchet).

The SO hex bit sockets are worth the money as I have twisted lots of Craftsman (yes the USA ones) like licorice.

A good quality hand impact is very nice to have (rotor bolts on the crankshaft, bolts that hold the wheel discs on the wheels, etc.)

I have a set of K&L T handles but they usually just hang on the pegboard. The 1/4" flex head ratchet is just as quick and I can work fasteners with one hand where it seems like a T handle you usually have to use two to get it spinning.

Another handy item is a small 9.6v 3/8" drive impact if you have to do some clutch work where repetitive disassembly can wear out your wrist. Mine is a Makita.

Hope this helps.

 

[The Toolest Guy]

This should give you an idea of what is needed. Basically JIS stuff. Same as a Toyota. 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm's
The riders pouch is great. I have it.
http://ktc-tools.eu/index.php?id_category=220&controller=category
http://ktc-tools.eu/index.php?id_category=230&controller=category

 

[AndyCBR]

Since somebody mentioned a rider's toolkit I'll link you to the greatest toolkit thread of all time.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-toolkit-thread.262998/

Definitely dirt specific but lots of cool ideas for any toolkit. If you have anything to get done at work don't open it there!

 

[Ray916MN]

Depends a bit on what vintage bikes you work on.

Back in the 70s when I first started working on metric bikes, a key thing to have was a hand impact since allot bikes used screws to hold engine covers on.

These days I've got long and short allen bits as well as T-handles and have had to add Torx bits and T-handles. Gotta have a full compliment of torque wrenches as I've found some bolts require very low torque, while others like axle nuts on single sided swingarm bikes require allot of torque. JIS screwdrivers are also nice to have, although increasingly Phillips screws are being replaced with either allens or Torx on bikes.

The big advance in my tool thinking came from noticing that a professional mechanic buddy of mine was almost exclusively using 1/4 stuff to work on bikes in his shop. Going to 1/4 inch drive in most sockets and bits has been a big help. Lighter and easier to work with and naturally prevents you from over torquing fasteners.

 

[Moto]

Get a set of JIS B 1012 (aka Japanese Phillips) screwdrivers.

They're a little bit different than regular Phillips screwdrivers.

 

[knobby]

Get a set of JIS B 1012 (aka Japanese Phillips) screwdrivers.

They're a little bit different than regular Phillips screwdrivers.

X2 something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/221747675859?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
be kind to the bikes screws

 

[aaronrkelly]

I have a full set of allen sockets and T handles - mostly I use the T handles.

I also have the Motion Pro speed wrench.

I have Vessel JIS screw drivers - a must.

I also own a BMW so I have a full set of Torx sockets.

....also my lift table, so very very handy.

 

[iScream]

I do all my own work on my 2 GSXR's and my friends bike. A good 1/4" and 3/8" drive set and you can handle just about anything. Got a set of T-handle hex wrenches from HF and they haven't let me down. A basic tool set and you'll be good...
Get a decent torque wrench too..
As for speciality tools, I got the chain breaker/riveter from Cycle Gear ($40) and a couple of tools from Motion Pro.

Do you have front and rear stands?

I've got a good selection of ratchets and sockets in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drives along with wrenches. And I do have 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches. Most of it is 15 year old Craftsman stuff but it has served me pretty well.

I grabbed a set of the HF t-handle hexes when I bought my 4 drawer tool cart a few weeks ago. Haven't had a reason to try them yet so I can't really comment but I'd like to pick up a quality set.

I've got swingarm spools on my bike and a nice stand for that plus a steering stem stand for the front.

I don't think there is anything I would need to do on my bike that I couldn't accomplish with the tools I already have. I'm really trying to enhance my tool set with some specific stuff that speeds up the job or just makes it faster and more convenient.

-Chris

 

[iScream]

I work on my son's motorcross bike. A basic 1/4 drive socket and extension set and metric hex sockets pretty much can do most work.

I did purchase a 1/4 drive torque wrench. I tend to over tighten fastners and figured I'll pay the money up front to save a twisted off bolt in the block down the road.....

I don't tighten ANY fastener without it....

I just tighten the smaller stuff by feel but I'm sure the way you do it is better.

 

[iScream]

On my Kawasaki It seems like 90% of it could be done with a 1/4" and 3/8" drive set.

My previous bikes have been that way too. This one, a Yamaha R1, hardly has any regular nuts or bolts visible when you look at it. It's just a sea of hex.

 

[iScream]

Harley Davidsons have a couple metric sizes used,10mm for the battery post bolts a 6mm hex in the front forks.

Hah, I've wondered about that.

 

[iScream]

From the dominant tool brand of MotoGP...

You'll thank me later. They're seriously excellent, they're faster to use than ratchets and sockets. If all my tools went up in flames, I'd buy these again for sure. Nothing I've tried compares in comfort, the ball end is fantastic, lots of relief while still holding solid. I always feel like I'd snap the ball off before I'd come cam out of the hex head.

Tips are forged, which no one else does anymore apparently, not Bondhus, not PB Swiss, not Snap-On. They're not cheap, around $90 for the set up to 6mm, but it'll save you a lot of aggravation from rounding off fasteners.


I have a Ducati, which uses some ridiculous combination of fasteners, so anything else probably doesn't translate onto your Yamaha.

Awesome. This is exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for. Never even heard of the brand though. Where do you get them?

 

[iScream]

This should give you an idea of what is needed. Basically JIS stuff. Same as a Toyota. 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm's
The riders pouch is great. I have it.
http://ktc-tools.eu/index.php?id_category=220&controller=category
http://ktc-tools.eu/index.php?id_category=230&controller=category

Nothing there that I don't already own but could be a decent starter set for someone. Needs a torque wrench though.

 

[maxpower_hd]

Diddo on the hand impact. I have seen a lot of corrosion on the aluminum parts. I would also suggest good impact bits for the hand impact tool. I have seen many tips break in the fasteners too.

 

[iScream]

All my bikes are metric and I have a Snap On flex head 1/4" ratchet as my go to tool. It usually has a long extension with a 1/4-3/8 adapter for the hex sockets, or an 8mm or 10mm deep well socket.

Second would be my long 3/8 SO ratchet for breaking loose brake caliper bolts, etc. (too big for a 1/4" ratchet).

The SO hex bit sockets are worth the money as I have twisted lots of Craftsman (yes the USA ones) like licorice.

A good quality hand impact is very nice to have (rotor bolts on the crankshaft, bolts that hold the wheel discs on the wheels, etc.)

I have a set of K&L T handles but they usually just hang on the pegboard. The 1/4" flex head ratchet is just as quick and I can work fasteners with one hand where it seems like a T handle you usually have to use two to get it spinning.

Another handy item is a small 9.6v 3/8" drive impact if you have to do some clutch work where repetitive disassembly can wear out your wrist. Mine is a Makita.

Hope this helps.

In addition to my generic Craftsman ratchets I have Gearwrench 1/4" and 3/8" with high tooth count and the round head that swivels. Quality is not on par with Snap-on, i'm sure, but they are definitely nicer than a fixed head ratchet for some things.

I try not to break any bolts with them so I grab the cheap Craftsman ratchets for that. I really should get a 3/8" breaker bar though as you really aren't supposed to use ratchets for that. I bought a nice 1/2" drive 24" handle breaker bar recently. Don't tell anyone but I was using my big torque wrench to remove my rear axle nut before that.

3/8" and 1/2" impacts are on my list but I haven't decided between cordless or air driven. I've got just enough compressor to drive an impact.

I do have a Makita 18V Lithium set with drill and impact driver. Didn't even think about grabbing the driver when I dug into the bike pretty deep several weeks ago. It might be the fastest and easiest thing overall for disassembling but probably not good for re-assembly.

 

[iScream]

Since somebody mentioned a rider's toolkit I'll link you to the greatest toolkit thread of all time.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-toolkit-thread.262998/

Definitely dirt specific but lots of cool ideas for any toolkit. If you have anything to get done at work don't open it there!

I clicked that link and, oh my. I book marked it for when I have some time.

Unfortunately, my bike has almost no room at all for carrying any tools. There's a small pouch under the seat with a few things that don't look like much fun to use. There was a small space under the front seat but that is now filled with my Power Commander and Autotune modules.

 

[iScream]

Depends a bit on what vintage bikes you work on.

Back in the 70s when I first started working on metric bikes, a key thing to have was a hand impact since allot bikes used screws to hold engine covers on.

These days I've got long and short allen bits as well as T-handles and have had to add Torx bits and T-handles. Gotta have a full compliment of torque wrenches as I've found some bolts require very low torque, while others like axle nuts on single sided swingarm bikes require allot of torque. JIS screwdrivers are also nice to have, although increasingly Phillips screws are being replaced with either allens or Torx on bikes.

The big advance in my tool thinking came from noticing that a professional mechanic buddy of mine was almost exclusively using 1/4 stuff to work on bikes in his shop. Going to 1/4 inch drive in most sockets and bits has been a big help. Lighter and easier to work with and naturally prevents you from over torquing fasteners.

My only bike right now is a 2014 Yamaha R1 and it is hex, hex hex. There are some philips screws holding down the airbox top but those are the only ones I remember running across so far.

First bike I ever wrenched on was an early 70's Honda CB125. That was around 1980 when I was 9 years old. I don't remember hex fasteners back then but maybe they were there and I just forgot.

This is the 4th sport bike I've owned since 1999 and there's definitely been a shift to hex compared to the others. Last one was a 2005 though.

That's a pretty good idea on 1/4" drive ratchets to keep from over torquing stuff. I suspect using t-handle hex drivers will be similar.

 

[iScream]

I originally started in 69 with a Hammer impact, a few Craftsman "V" metric sockets and a Craftsman beam Torque wrench. Next came a set of Ekland Metric T-wrenches which I still have and they look like new in the original pouch. As time went by, I'd pick up what was needed for specific job although I've found I typically use a lot of deep 6pt. 1/4" drive metric sockets, ratchets and extensions. I just picked up a 1/4" drive Wright "Speeder" which I love and have a couple Precision Instrument torque wrenches for light settings.
Motoretro

When I started working on bicycles when I was about 8 years old then motorcycles a couple years later my dad had an auto body shop in our back yard. So I had his Snap-on tools to work with.

This is the first bike where I feel the need to invest in more than the most basic hex tools though.

 

[iScream]

Get a set of JIS B 1012 (aka Japanese Phillips) screwdrivers.

They're a little bit different than regular Phillips screwdrivers.

X2 something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/221747675859?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
be kind to the bikes screws

Hmm, I have a nice set of Wera screwdrivers with the special etched tips. Is there really enough difference to buy the Japanese versions as well?

I never knew there was a difference so I definitely learned something here.

 

[iScream]

I have a full set of allen sockets and T handles - mostly I use the T handles.

I also have the Motion Pro speed wrench.

I have Vessel JIS screw drivers - a must.

I also own a BMW so I have a full set of Torx sockets.

....also my lift table, so very very handy.

So you aren't finding the Motion Pro handy?

This is what I actually have so I guess it isn't a speed wrench. I'm hoping it has enough mass to spin most of my hex fasteners in or out with a good twist. Haven't had a chance to try it but it feels like it should do the job when I give it a spin in my hand.

 

[Sine Swept]

I like the Wera drivers for interior car work. However, I like JIS drivers for interior Japanese work. I can put the JIS screw on the screwdriver and then point the screw at the ground and still hold onto it on the head of the screwdriver. Very handy for replacing radios in a dash without losing the screw I am using. You won't know the difference until the first time you use a JIS driver on a JIS screw.

Quite often a JIS screw will be very noticeable, look for a Phillips head that has a dot between two of the points of the star head.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/images/fastener/screws_JIS_phillips_pozidriv.jpg

 

[Ray916MN]

...
3/8" and 1/2" impacts are on my list but I haven't decided between cordless or air driven. I've got just enough compressor to drive an impact.
.....

Boy I've found virtually no use for impacts on bikes. The only 3 places where I might use an impact is to take off the rear axle nut (my Ducatis single sideds swingarm bike axles are torqued to ~ 100ft. lbs.), removal of the front sprocket nut, and removal of the swingarm pivot. I've got a 3/4" socket, ratchet and breaker bar set specifically for axle nuts. I regularly use ratchets for removing the majority of stuff, and occasionally a fixed end wrench with the tap of a mallet for stubborn nuts.

Modern sportbikes use pretty fine swingarm bearings, so swingarm pivots are no longer highly torqued, so the only 2 places left for using an impact are the countershaft nut and rear axle nut. A 1/2 inch impact set should be all you'll need along with an electric impact gun. Although I wired my shop for 220 specifically for a decent compressor, in end, I figured out that my compressor use would be so infrequent that an electric impact made much better sense. All 14 bikes I own are metric and I can't think of a torque spec above 100 ft. lbs on any of them.

What some of my professional friends use are very small modest torque LI screw guns for light fasteners to save their wrists on disassembly and assembly. Good ones aren't cheap (~ $250), and I don't wrench enough to justify the luxury. If I didn't have a lift table, I buy a HF lift table before spending $250 on a screw gun.

 

[loneowl]

....

I just bought a Motion Pro 3/8" drive speed wrench and now I need a good set of long hex bit sockets to go with it.

Really close to pulling the trigger on this Sunex set since it has regular hex and ball heads in the sizes I need. But I thought I would ask if anyone has a reason I should spend more for another brand....

I picked up a set of carlyle metric long hex sockets for around $25.00 a few weeks back. They seem to be holding up well and if any break I can take them back down to napa and have it warrantied out. The same set I bought is showing on sale for $26 if you don't have an account with them.
http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsList.aspx?&k=CHT BSLH3807M&p=1

 

[knobby]

Hmm, I have a nice set of Wera screwdrivers with the special etched tips. Is there really enough difference to buy the Japanese versions as well?

I never knew there was a difference so I definitely learned something here.

Yes IMHO it is well worthwhile to have at least a #2 JIS handy when working on metric bikes.
Once you fit the proper driver in a tight fitting screw and remove it with no slip you will understand.
Funny story but back in the 70's everyone who wrenched on Japanese bikes bitched about the screws being made of something resembling silly putty when we were just using the wrong tool for the fastener...

 

[HanShotFirst]

Long hex or torx wrenches, either T-handle or on sockets. Older Yamaha's put all the engine covers on with Phillips screws rather than bolts, so a hand impact driver will save you some grief because they're really on there. Good metric combination wrenches and I'm often reaching for a stubby to get into tight places. Many of the newer bikes have their wheels held on with very large hex heads, so look for some of those anywhere from 17mm - 24mm.

Chain breaker is handy, you wont use it often but it will pay for itself the first time you actually need it. Long Phillips screwdrivers will come in handy quite often. Feeler gauges for doing your valves.

Good multimeter, you'll be doing electrical.

If you're doing dirt bike tires get a set of Motion Pro tire irons (they're the short ones) and then supplement them with two of the really long tire irons from Harbor Freight; those are very good.

If you're doing street bike tires, get some Motion Pro rim savers, and a tire station will be very helpful, but you can do it with tire irons also.

Oh, magnetic spark plug sockets in 5/8(which is 16mm) and 18mm. And never throw away a factory tool kit's socket wrench, sometimes they're the only thing that will fit down inside a head to get to the spark plug.

For sockets, 1/4" will get most everything done, but you'll sometimes reach for 3/8". Get a 3/8" torque wrench which should be sufficient for just about everything on your bike.

Well there's your starter kit, everything after that is probably more specialty.

 

[morgantm]

I use the Bondhus t-handle hex the most, I have a set of the Motion Pro speed wrenches but never use them. JIS screwdriver bits are a must, I have a couple extra if you are in need of a set.

 

[ttpete]

I use a 12v Milwaukee 1/4" hex driver (not impact) for almost everything. It's geared down enough that I can break a screw loose or apply final torque just by twisting the gun manually. It works really well on bodywork fasteners and 6 mm cover screws.

I also have the t-handles, including allen, torx, and hex sockets. I have two square drive t-handle speeders with ball bearing grip sleeves, 1/4 & 3/8.

Sockets and ratchets are 1/4 & 3/8. I have magnetic trays for sockets and hex drivers.

The Kawasaki and Ducati use mostly allen head fasteners, and the BMW is mostly torx. The '67 Triumph is all Whitworth.

I have a dedicated laptop that's used to run diagnostics and to work with fuel and spark mapping. There are also complete workshop manuals for all of my bikes in memory.

Each bike requires some special tools for regular maintenance, and I have what's needed. Two bikes use 10 mm spark plugs that require special extra thin wall sockets, and one needs a tool to remove the ignition coils from the spark plug wells. Front axles require large allen sockets and the Ducati a special socket for the rear wheel nut. Oil filter sockets are also needed.

 

[afmrick]

Topical thread: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262507 - Show your motorcycle track tool box

For some reason I mostly only use t-handles on the dirtbike and mostly 1/4"-drive for some reason. I've got all the tools I need for most basic maintenance including valve height adjustments in a small tool rollup that lives in my gear bag. The street bikes are mostly 3/8"-drive and on ratchets.

 

[iScream]

I like the Wera drivers for interior car work. However, I like JIS drivers for interior Japanese work. I can put the JIS screw on the screwdriver and then point the screw at the ground and still hold onto it on the head of the screwdriver. Very handy for replacing radios in a dash without losing the screw I am using. You won't know the difference until the first time you use a JIS driver on a JIS screw.

Quite often a JIS screw will be very noticeable, look for a Phillips head that has a dot between two of the points of the star head.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/images/fastener/screws_JIS_phillips_pozidriv.jpg

Yes IMHO it is well worthwhile to have at least a #2 JIS handy when working on metric bikes.
Once you fit the proper driver in a tight fitting screw and remove it with no slip you will understand.
Funny story but back in the 70's everyone who wrenched on Japanese bikes bitched about the screws being made of something resembling silly putty when we were just using the wrong tool for the fastener...

I use the Bondhus t-handle hex the most, I have a set of the Motion Pro speed wrenches but never use them. JIS screwdriver bits are a must, I have a couple extra if you are in need of a set.

OK, you guys have convinced me to put a couple JIS screwdrivers on my list.

 

[iScream]

Boy I've found virtually no use for impacts on bikes. The only 3 places where I might use an impact is to take off the rear axle nut (my Ducatis single sideds swingarm bike axles are torqued to ~ 100ft. lbs.), removal of the front sprocket nut, and removal of the swingarm pivot. I've got a 3/4" socket, ratchet and breaker bar set specifically for axle nuts. I regularly use ratchets for removing the majority of stuff, and occasionally a fixed end wrench with the tap of a mallet for stubborn nuts.

Modern sportbikes use pretty fine swingarm bearings, so swingarm pivots are no longer highly torqued, so the only 2 places left for using an impact are the countershaft nut and rear axle nut. A 1/2 inch impact set should be all you'll need along with an electric impact gun. Although I wired my shop for 220 specifically for a decent compressor, in end, I figured out that my compressor use would be so infrequent that an electric impact made much better sense. All 14 bikes I own are metric and I can't think of a torque spec above 100 ft. lbs on any of them.

What some of my professional friends use are very small modest torque LI screw guns for light fasteners to save their wrists on disassembly and assembly. Good ones aren't cheap (~ $250), and I don't wrench enough to justify the luxury. If I didn't have a lift table, I buy a HF lift table before spending $250 on a screw gun.

I'm sure you're right about the impact gun for motorcycle use. Still need a good 1/2" gun for car stuff though. And for stuff like zipping off the mower blade to sharpen it. And I guess I just want a 3/8" because I want one but it's pretty far down on my list.

 

[iScream]

I picked up a set of carlyle metric long hex sockets for around $25.00 a few weeks back. They seem to be holding up well and if any break I can take them back down to napa and have it warrantied out. The same set I bought is showing on sale for $26 if you don't have an account with them.
http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsList.aspx?&k=CHT BSLH3807M&p=1

Thanks. I decided to go ahead and buy the Sunex 9921 set I linked in the first post. Ordered them this afternoon from ToolTopia.

The single set just meets my needs so perfectly that I couldn't resist.

 

[BikerDad]

It really depends on the bike. I have a honkin' 17mm (I think) allen that is used for the front axle, rear requires a 27mm socket/wrench. That's where my impact wrench (which I've yet to use) is going to be put to use. I will echo what others have said, GET THE JIS SCREWDRIVERS!!!

10mm socket and wrench get a fair bit of use. 5mm (or is it 6?) hex key is used for much of the bodywork removal. Pulling the plastic body panel rivets can be a royal pain, especially when destruction of them is not desired. I've variously used needle nose pliers, bent nose needle nose, and will be trying out some auto trim "lifters".

Oh, and watch out for the oil filters. They can be sneaky on sizing...

 

[iScream]

Chain breaker is handy, you wont use it often but it will pay for itself the first time you actually need it. Long Phillips screwdrivers will come in handy quite often. Feeler gauges for doing your valves.

Good multimeter, you'll be doing electrical.

If you're doing street bike tires, get some Motion Pro rim savers, and a tire station will be very helpful, but you can do it with tire irons also.


Well there's your starter kit, everything after that is probably more specialty.

I've got the chain breaker kit already and a good DMM.

Street bike tires are one of a very few things I'm not sure I want to tackle. I always remove my wheels and take them in to have tires mounted so it doesn't cost as much as taking the bike in.

It just seems like a hell of a lot of work and I don't want to screw up my wheels.

I've actually done some stuff to this bike already. About 6 weeks ago I installed an aftermarket y-pipe to eliminate the cat, a one tooth smaller front sprocket, block off plates for the air injection smog ****, a Power Commander, Auto Tune and POD 300 display. Before that I installed a rear fender eliminator.

A set of stubby wrenched would have been nice doing the exhaust so those are on my list.

 

[MikeF2316]

The only special tool I've needed so far is something to hold the damper rod for when I changed the fork seals. Mine need the equivalent to a long 17 mm allen key (to reach to the bottom of the inside the fork tube). They make fancy tools to go one the end of a long extension:

but I just took a nut and squared off the inside with a file.

That and as a few others have suggested a lift table. Just 2 weeks ago, I spent a few quality hours dealing with some broken bolts 9 inches off the ground, I'm getting too old for that ****. I'm currently looking around for a lift table.