Metric motorcycle tools

[iScream]

I use a 12v Milwaukee 1/4" hex driver (not impact) for almost everything. It's geared down enough that I can break a screw loose or apply final torque just by twisting the gun manually. It works really well on bodywork fasteners and 6 mm cover screws.

I also have the t-handles, including allen, torx, and hex sockets. I have two square drive t-handle speeders with ball bearing grip sleeves, 1/4 & 3/8.

Sockets and ratchets are 1/4 & 3/8. I have magnetic trays for sockets and hex drivers.

The Kawasaki and Ducati use mostly allen head fasteners, and the BMW is mostly torx. The '67 Triumph is all Whitworth.

I have a dedicated laptop that's used to run diagnostics and to work with fuel and spark mapping. There are also complete workshop manuals for all of my bikes in memory.

Each bike requires some special tools for regular maintenance, and I have what's needed. Two bikes use 10 mm spark plugs that require special extra thin wall sockets, and one needs a tool to remove the ignition coils from the spark plug wells. Front axles require large allen sockets and the Ducati a special socket for the rear wheel nut. Oil filter sockets are also needed.

Sounds like you have your setup close to the point I want to get.

Dynojet is beta testing a new Android app for the Power Commander. I'm an iPhone and iPad guy but I'm about to pick up a cheap droid tablet to use for that an dfor programming my RC car speed controllers.

I took the bike in for the 600 mile service, just because I like to have a record of it being done. I'll be doing pretty much everything except tires from now on so I do need to figure out what I need for the oil filter. Thanks for the reminder on that.

 

[rice rocket]

I did my own tires w/ the Harbor Freight manual mounter + their adapter.

It wasn't the easiest thing I've done, but I learned a few things too, and it paid for itself in one go. Depending on your tire choice and how much you ride, it may or may not be worth it for you.

 

[iScream]

Topical thread: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262507 - Show your motorcycle track tool box

For some reason I mostly only use t-handles on the dirtbike and mostly 1/4"-drive for some reason. I've got all the tools I need for most basic maintenance including valve height adjustments in a small tool rollup that lives in my gear bag. The street bikes are mostly 3/8"-drive and on ratchets.

Haven't done a track day yet but one way or another I'm going to get down to Barber for one before too long.

I bought a HF 4 drawer tool cart a few weeks ago and I'm trying to get it setup to make working on the bike easy while still being useful for car stuff.

I like your box setup from that thread. What is with the 0-20 PSI and 20-50 PSI labels on your tire pressure gauges?

After reading about how inaccurate even some more expensive gauges can be I decided to go for a nice liquid filled gauge.

 

[Bagherra]

After reading this, I've decided that I need (would like) a set of JIS screwdrivers.

Link?

 

[iScream]

It really depends on the bike. I have a honkin' 17mm (I think) allen that is used for the front axle, rear requires a 27mm socket/wrench. That's where my impact wrench (which I've yet to use) is going to be put to use. I will echo what others have said, GET THE JIS SCREWDRIVERS!!!

10mm socket and wrench get a fair bit of use. 5mm (or is it 6?) hex key is used for much of the bodywork removal. Pulling the plastic body panel rivets can be a royal pain, especially when destruction of them is not desired. I've variously used needle nose pliers, bent nose needle nose, and will be trying out some auto trim "lifters".

Oh, and watch out for the oil filters. They can be sneaky on sizing...

On my last bike I needed to remove the front wheel and didn't want to pay for the proper tool so I bought a bolt and nut that fit into the axle, which was six point rather than hex, and tack welded them together. That way I was able to use a regular 1/2" breaker bar to remove it.

You made me go out to the garage and look though and this bike is also six point so I may do the same thing if I can find a MIG to borrow for a minute. My rear axle is 32mm.

I grew up taking the interiors out of cars in my old man's body shop so this is hard to admit, but it took me a while to figure out that you just have to push the little center tab in with a punch or something on most of the motorcycle plastic clips to release them. They come right out after that.

 

[iScream]

The only special tool I've needed so far is something to hold the damper rod for when I changed the fork seals. Mine need the equivalent to a long 17 mm allen key (to reach to the bottom of the inside the fork tube). They make fancy tools to go one the end of a long extension:

but I just took a nut and squared off the inside with a file.

That and as a few others have suggested a lift table. Just 2 weeks ago, I spent a few quality hours dealing with some broken bolts 9 inches off the ground, I'm getting too old for that ****. I'm currently looking around for a lift table.

I've never had the chance to use a lift table so I think I just don't know what I'm missing. I've read decent comments of the cheap one from HF but it's still pretty low on my list. Maybe if I actually tried one it would go up in priority. Not sure...

 

[iScream]

I did my own tires w/ the Harbor Freight manual mounter + their adapter.

It wasn't the easiest thing I've done, but I learned a few things too, and it paid for itself in one go. Depending on your tire choice and how much you ride, it may or may not be worth it for you.

I bought my bike new in April and I've got 2000 miles on the stock Dunlops. The rear probably has another 1500 left in it then I'm going to put a more performance oriented set on both ends.

I ran a couple sets of Michelin 2CT tires on my last bike and liked them a lot but I'm thinking about trying the Dunlop Q3 this time. So I'll probably be going through at least 2 rears a year and hopefully just one front per year.

The tire tools would pay off quickly but I'm just not sure I want to screw with it. And what do you do about balancing? Do you find it isn't needed or do you do it yourself?

 

[rice rocket]

I've gone back and forth with people when I was deciding, there's people on both sides of the argument. I decided to throw them on unbalanced just to see (left the factory weights on) and I haven't noticed, but my bike won't go past 130 mph either.

I made a little condom for the tire iron out of a plastic milk jug, and put rubber tubing over the wheel clamps, and my wheels were spared from any damage.

 

[fasteddie313]

I believe I have a complete set of CMan T handles in metric still in there package, you can have them for 1/2 the going rate from sears, pm if you want them..

 

[aaronrkelly]

I've never had the chance to use a lift table so I think I just don't know what I'm missing. I've read decent comments of the cheap one from HF but it's still pretty low on my list. Maybe if I actually tried one it would go up in priority. Not sure...

Thats what I have, the red HF lift. It handles everything I throw at it....800lb bagger to my rigid bar hopper. Snagged it with a coupon.....have something like $300ish in it. They get great reviews and I definitely give it a two thumbs up. Alot of things that can be done on the ground get so much easier with the bike at eye level.....can I do without it....sure. It does make life much easier.

 

[chillrich]

Have 2 sets of t-handles but have started using the M12 1/4 ratchet for most bolts up to M8. So much easier. I would advise against the M12 3/8 square drive impact as it can't really loosen anything that is torqued in excess of 25-30 ft/lbs.

Here are some really useful tools for Motocross;

 

[Dust Devil]

Ooooooo that seal driver set looks sweet.

 

[knobby]

After reading this, I've decided that I need (would like) a set of JIS screwdrivers.

Link?

The most used size would be the #2 phillips lookalike try ebay with a search of JIS screwdrivers and pick what you want.

 

[MotoCARR]

Depending on the bike, high 20s low 30 millimeter socket (like 32mm 34mm) to get front sprockets off.

One of these to remove front axles

or a socket big enough to remove the home made version you may make lol.

 

[wafrederick]

Hah, I've wondered about that.

Those are the only two metric fastners in a Harley I know of so far

 

[HarveyM]

I’ve worked on my Vespa for the last nine years (20,000 miles). Because of the metal monocoque body there’s a lot of work in cramped spaces. As an amateur wrencher I don’t use power tools on the bike, but a 2 foot breaker bar comes in handy for a couple bolts in the transmission and rear wheel (93 ft-lbs). I want to feel what’s happening when I break loose or tighten a fastener. I don’t have a lift table, but those foam floor mats make working lying down bearable. The Wera Kraftform Kompakt bit holder set with 89mm (3.5“) long bits are handy. They fit recessed fasteners better than normal bit holders do. Also a set of flex head ratchet wrenches (mine are Blackhawk) are a real time saver. I like the Motion Pro spinner T handles.

 

[afmrick]

I like your box setup from that thread. What is with the 0-20 PSI and 20-50 PSI labels on your tire pressure gauges?

After reading about how inaccurate even some more expensive gauges can be I decided to go for a nice liquid filled gauge.

Thanks! The track toolbox is still, as always, in progress.
The 0-20 PSI is for dirt bikes and the 10-50 PSI is for street bikes. I haven't found a stick gauge that is accurate enough and has the range to do both. Some tire dealers at the track have a self-serve station to compare your gauge to their calibrated ones and both of these happened to be right on the money around the middle of their rated range (which is what I care about).

I do have a gauge like yours for when I want a more precise measurement and finer control of letting air out but, the those sticks are surprisingly accurate and easy to store.

 

[ttpete]

Sounds like you have your setup close to the point I want to get.

Dynojet is beta testing a new Android app for the Power Commander. I'm an iPhone and iPad guy but I'm about to pick up a cheap droid tablet to use for that an dfor programming my RC car speed controllers.

I took the bike in for the 600 mile service, just because I like to have a record of it being done. I'll be doing pretty much everything except tires from now on so I do need to figure out what I need for the oil filter. Thanks for the reminder on that.

I'd suggest that you look for a small unit with a keyboard and touchpad with a USB port for a mouse if necessary. I have a cheap 12" laptop running Win7, and it has plenty of capacity for manuals and such. Map tables have very small numbers and don't work well with small touchscreens. Keep it in the garage for work times. The Android stuff is ok for traveling.

If you're going to run Autotune, be aware that the wide band O2 sensor has a heating element in it, and make sure that the 12V circuit you tap into has enough capacity to run it without blowing a fuse.

 

[Ray916MN]

I've never had the chance to use a lift table so I think I just don't know what I'm missing. I've read decent comments of the cheap one from HF but it's still pretty low on my list. Maybe if I actually tried one it would go up in priority. Not sure...

If you have the space for one and the budget can afford one, buy a lift table. Mount a roll in wheel chock on it and have at it.

There are very few jobs I don't do on a lift table. Oil changes, tire changes, hydraulic fluid services, chain/sprocket swaps, brake pads, tire pressure checks, track day prep, all these common jobs are much much easier when you do them at eye level. Of course bigger jobs also are easier when done on a lift table.

Here's an RC51 getting a full suspension refresh.

ZX7R M1 homologation special under going restoration

Having lift tables has made me much less prone to put off maintenance, or deal with problems and at eye level, I've discovered problems earlier than I would have otherwise.

 

[MikeF2316]

I forgot my wheel balance stand. As you can see, I spend big bucks on it.

I use the axle sitting on top of the side boards as the pivot. If you roll the axle back and forth it overcomes the static friction.

It's now in the position to do the rear wheel. I move the one side board with the screws in a few inches to do the front wheel. You can see the holes and the pencil lines in the pic.

And since I was out in the garage taking pictures, here's my homemade damper rod tool. It's 19 mm, not 17 as I misremembered.

 

[iScream]

I just ordered a Gearwrench 7 piece metric stubby ratcheting wrench set from Advanced Auto Parts. Also got Gearwrench 7" diagonal cutters and 3/8" breaker bar. With a $25 off $75 coupon and a 20% BofA cashback deal the stubby set cost me $20 and the other two items $8 each, tax and all with local pickup. Pretty darn happy with that.

 

[Bagherra]

Been looking at getting alift for some time now...had my eye on the HF one...

 

[BikerDad]

Been looking at getting alift for some time now...had my eye on the HF one...

oh HELL NO! You want a B.O.B.

Sure, it costs a little( ) more, but it's worth it. However, it's not metric, so it won't work on imported bikes.

 

[BikerDad]

On my last bike I needed to remove the front wheel and didn't want to pay for the proper tool so I bought a bolt and nut that fit into the axle, which was six point rather than hex, and tack welded them together. That way I was able to use a regular 1/2" breaker bar to remove it.

You made me go out to the garage and look though and this bike is also six point so I may do the same thing if I can find a MIG to borrow for a minute. My rear axle is 32mm.

No welder here, the tool at HF was cheaper than a welder.

I grew up taking the interiors out of cars in my old man's body shop so this is hard to admit, but it took me a while to figure out that you just have to push the little center tab in with a punch or something on most of the motorcycle plastic clips to release them. They come right out after that.

Works for some, but not for the damnable "mushroom" heads, which pull out instead. I suspect sportbikes don't use many, but they're swarming all over the Goldwings and some other sport touring bikes with lots of tupperware.

 

[ttpete]

No welder here, the tool at HF was cheaper than a welder.


Works for some, but not for the damnable "mushroom" heads, which pull out instead. I suspect sportbikes don't use many, but they're swarming all over the Goldwings and some other sport touring bikes with lots of tupperware.

If I owned a bike with a lot of bodywork, I'd convert most of those plastic fasteners to aircraft type 1/4 turn fasteners. Kurveygirl sells kits for some bikes. http://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/

 

[afmrick]

Been looking at getting alift for some time now...had my eye on the HF one...

Having a lift is glorious! I wouldn't sweat buying a cheap one but, a good wheel vise goes a long way. I dropped a Weaver Wheel Clamp (~$80 at the time) on my budget lift that had a similar tire vise to the HF lift and it made a world of difference. If I was to do it again, I'd buy the Titan or the Handy wheel vise - that wheel stop is pretty. At anyrate, those low-profile clamps *really* need to be combined with tie downs.
VS

 

[iScream]

Thats what I have, the red HF lift. It handles everything I throw at it....800lb bagger to my rigid bar hopper. Snagged it with a coupon.....have something like $300ish in it. They get great reviews and I definitely give it a two thumbs up. Alot of things that can be done on the ground get so much easier with the bike at eye level.....can I do without it....sure. It does make life much easier.

I got a HF coupon flier yesterday and the lift is in there for $300. It's tempting but I think I'm going to wait and get some other stuff from my list.

 

[iScream]

Have 2 sets of t-handles but have started using the M12 1/4 ratchet for most bolts up to M8. So much easier. I would advise against the M12 3/8 square drive impact as it can't really loosen anything that is torqued in excess of 25-30 ft/lbs.

Here are some really useful tools for Motocross;

I'm not sure what all I'm even looking at there.

 

[iScream]

Depending on the bike, high 20s low 30 millimeter socket (like 32mm 34mm) to get front sprockets off.

One of these to remove front axles

or a socket big enough to remove the home made version you may make lol.

Who sells that tool on top? Does it take a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet?

 

[iScream]

Thanks! The track toolbox is still, as always, in progress.
The 0-20 PSI is for dirt bikes and the 10-50 PSI is for street bikes. I haven't found a stick gauge that is accurate enough and has the range to do both. Some tire dealers at the track have a self-serve station to compare your gauge to their calibrated ones and both of these happened to be right on the money around the middle of their rated range (which is what I care about).

I do have a gauge like yours for when I want a more precise measurement and finer control of letting air out but, the those sticks are surprisingly accurate and easy to store.

What brand are they? I'd like to get a few to keep in glove boxes and under my bike seat.

 

[iScream]

If you're going to run Autotune, be aware that the wide band O2 sensor has a heating element in it, and make sure that the 12V circuit you tap into has enough capacity to run it without blowing a fuse.

I knew about the O2 sensor heat but haven't heard about anyone blowing fuses.

 

[iScream]

I’ve worked on my Vespa for the last nine years (20,000 miles). Because of the metal monocoque body there’s a lot of work in cramped spaces. As an amateur wrencher I don’t use power tools on the bike, but a 2 foot breaker bar comes in handy for a couple bolts in the transmission and rear wheel (93 ft-lbs). I want to feel what’s happening when I break loose or tighten a fastener. I don’t have a lift table, but those foam floor mats make working lying down bearable. The Wera Kraftform Kompakt bit holder set with 89mm (3.5“) long bits are handy. They fit recessed fasteners better than normal bit holders do. Also a set of flex head ratchet wrenches (mine are Blackhawk) are a real time saver. I like the Motion Pro spinner T handles.

I can't even picture what a Vespa looks like but I can imagine and kind of scooter being cramped to work on.

 

[iScream]

If you have the space for one and the budget can afford one, buy a lift table. Mount a roll in wheel chock on it and have at it.

There are very few jobs I don't do on a lift table. Oil changes, tire changes, hydraulic fluid services, chain/sprocket swaps, brake pads, tire pressure checks, track day prep, all these common jobs are much much easier when you do them at eye level. Of course bigger jobs also are easier when done on a lift table.


Having lift tables has made me much less prone to put off maintenance, or deal with problems and at eye level, I've discovered problems earlier than I would have otherwise.

I checked out your garage thread. Pretty darn slick.

 

[iScream]

Works for some, but not for the damnable "mushroom" heads, which pull out instead. I suspect sportbikes don't use many, but they're swarming all over the Goldwings and some other sport touring bikes with lots of tupperware.

Gotcha. So far on this bike I've only run across the ones with a center pin plus a couple with a philips insert.

 

[iScream]

If I owned a bike with a lot of bodywork, I'd convert most of those plastic fasteners to aircraft type 1/4 turn fasteners. Kurveygirl sells kits for some bikes. http://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/

My fairings have those stock. It's amazing how fast and easy it is to pull the side fairings or put them back on.

 

[iScream]

Bump with a bike pic to see if any Sunday morning people have tool comments. And because I love looking at the thing.

 

[afmrick]

What brand are they? I'd like to get a few to keep in glove boxes and under my bike seat.

The 0-20 PSI is from Pit Posse. The 10-50 PSI is branded by my local motorcycle store but, Pit Posse makes one in that range too.

I borrowed a *really* nice stick gauge from someone the other day at the track - it bugs me that I didn't write down the brand.

 

[bwringer]

Haven't seen this mentioned yet: thread tools. Taps, dies, thread pitch gauges, thread gauges, and a metric thread file.

Make sure you get the correct thread pitches -- on Japanese machinery, 8, 10, and 12mm threads are 1.25mm pitch. Many "complete" sets leave out the 10X1.25 and 12X1.25; you're sometimes better off buying taps and dies individually.

An assortment of left-handed drill bits is quite handy as well, especially on older machinery.

And let's not forget an assortment of spare JIS nuts and bolts.

 

[BikerDad]

I didn't see it mentioned, but if you're going to be spending a lot of time at the track, you'll probably have to safety wire your oil pan plug bolt and perhaps some other stuff. Sooooo, you'll want a pair of Safety Wire Pliers.

 

[kaia]

i *try* to do all the work to my bikes myself. i find that the metric tools i go to the most in the garage are:

Motion Pro T-handles (the long ones, not the short ones)

Tekton 1/4" Offset Ratchet & Deep sockets(with a Harbor Freight one right next to it)

18 Pc SAE & Metric T-Handle Ball End Hex Key Set

(yeah, they're cheap, but they work!)


i've got a different set of tools specific to each bike, many gleaned from the toolkit thread mentioned on advrider earlier in this thread... but it's amazing how much i can fix on the current bike (KTM 530 EXC) with four tools (three of which are motion pro):

Motion Pro 08-0547 Y-Drive Wrench Combo
Motion Pro 08-0288 10" T6 Combo Lever 27mm
Motion Pro 08-0536 BeadPro Bead Breaker
KTM Multi-Wrench