Hi, I'm looking for a good micro torch to help remove stubborn bolts when working on my motorcycle. I did a search online and it seems the Blazer GT8000 Big shot gets a lot of good reviews, have any of you guys used this torch? Or can you recommend a good alternative? I really appreciate any advice you guys can give me!
Micro torch recommendation
- Thread starter jgelack
- Start date
Fix Until Broke
Well-known member
Maybe something like this instead?
http://www.theinductor.com/induction-heating-products/mini-ductor
http://www.theinductor.com/induction-heating-products/mini-ductor
rlitman
Well-known member
A micro torch for stubborn bolts is a terrible idea. The smaller the torch, the longer you will need to dwell on the bolt, and the more heat damage you will cause.
The Inductor is insane. Boss has one at the shop. 30 seconds and it's glowing red no risk of scorching something flammable nearby. Great if you're working on suspension with gas, oil and brake lines nearby.
OP, try using MAP gas and an adjustable nozzle? Proven technology.
OP, try using MAP gas and an adjustable nozzle? Proven technology.
plinker
Well-known member
Mini ductors work great in most situations, they can be spendy though. Mapp gas torches are the least expensive torch that will actually do something, likely the best bet for a budget.
For a mini torch, I found Master MT51 works well, Pretty inexpensive, around 22$. They dont like to be dropped though, the striker breaks off inside and wont spark, they can be manually lit. I have used these to heat small bolts (machine screw size) with some success.
For a mini torch, I found Master MT51 works well, Pretty inexpensive, around 22$. They dont like to be dropped though, the striker breaks off inside and wont spark, they can be manually lit. I have used these to heat small bolts (machine screw size) with some success.
It's not all that.... only works if you can wrap the coil around the nut...
In no particular order:
- There is NO MORE MAPP available (not counting some forgotten cylinders on a shelf somewhere). The 'substitute' called MaP (or similar, sometimes with the word "pro" stuck in there as well) is not even close. Only about 10% 'hotter' than plain propane, not worth the ~4x higher cost per cylinder compared to plain propane for most uses IMHO.
- That little torch looks like something to use for caramelizing the sugar on Creme Brulee.
Might work ok for some uses, but not a pinpoint flame or enough concentrated BTus IMHO.
- Sometimes, if just 'warming' something is all you need to do, a plain old air-propane 'plumbers torch' can do the job. They come in different size/heat output levels, find what seems to fit your wants/needs. The swirl-torch ones put out a LOT more heat than a plain pencil flame, but that heat is spread out a bit more. Good for soldering copper pipe, not quite as good to rapidly heat a 3/8" nut and not end up heating everything around it.
- If you want intense and concentrated flame, oxy-fuel is the way to go. IMHO. Get the bolt/nut red hot FAST, and not be pumping heat into the entire area. Watch out you don't melt aluminum stuff nearby though. Or thin stuff nearby. Or anything that you didn't want to melt or burn or set on fire.
- There is NO MORE MAPP available (not counting some forgotten cylinders on a shelf somewhere). The 'substitute' called MaP (or similar, sometimes with the word "pro" stuck in there as well) is not even close. Only about 10% 'hotter' than plain propane, not worth the ~4x higher cost per cylinder compared to plain propane for most uses IMHO.
- That little torch looks like something to use for caramelizing the sugar on Creme Brulee.
Might work ok for some uses, but not a pinpoint flame or enough concentrated BTus IMHO.- Sometimes, if just 'warming' something is all you need to do, a plain old air-propane 'plumbers torch' can do the job. They come in different size/heat output levels, find what seems to fit your wants/needs. The swirl-torch ones put out a LOT more heat than a plain pencil flame, but that heat is spread out a bit more. Good for soldering copper pipe, not quite as good to rapidly heat a 3/8" nut and not end up heating everything around it.
- If you want intense and concentrated flame, oxy-fuel is the way to go. IMHO. Get the bolt/nut red hot FAST, and not be pumping heat into the entire area. Watch out you don't melt aluminum stuff nearby though. Or thin stuff nearby. Or anything that you didn't want to melt or burn or set on fire.
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
Perhaps not best for this application, but I find my Smith Little Torch quite handy. The hoses have fittings that fasten directly to your full sized oxy and acetylene tanks.
I just read the applications listed in your link. As I suspected, there is no mention of loosening bolts. It is just too small. The full size ones are are around 500 bucks and hard to justify by most shade tree mechanics.
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rlitman
Well-known member
What link are you reading? I see:
Mini-Ductor®
Experience fast, safe and damage-free removal of stubborn nuts and bolts,...
Finky198
Well-known member
I have the blazer gt8000 big shot it’s a great torch. Zero complaints well made would buy another in a heartbeat. I use it mostly in the kitchen, sometimes for rope cutting , splicing. There are unlimited uses...
I'm trying to remove the T30 Torx head Bolts that are holding the stator to the engine cover on my motorcycle. These bolts are red Loctited in, so I thought a micro torch might be the best option to heat them since the bolts are so small and I don't want to do any possible damage the stator with a larger flame.
rlitman
Well-known member
I’ve used a soldering iron to heat bolts to remove loctite in the past. No flame at all.
I like that idea! I'll give that a try first, thanks!