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Mid-Engine Sandrail build

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zmotorsports

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Well I didn't get much done last week but had a pretty productive weekend. I was able to get some small items taken care of such as the fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket, the MSD ignition boxes mounted, the battery disconnect mount fabricated. After that my son and I installed the engine and fabricated the rear transaxle cradle/support. We then installed the front suspention, removed it from the chassis table and set it on its tires/wheels.

Overall I am pretty happy with the sleek style and appearance. This was just the look I was going for. Let me know what you think. Mike.

2enx7qh.jpg


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11udgew.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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Here are the mirror tabs fabricated and tack welded into place on the 'A' pillar.

166ephe.jpg


And yet more tabs. The two large ones are for the passenger foot rest mount which I need to trim and tack into place. The three small tabs are for the brake line termination where it will go from rigid brake line to the flex line (2 required) and will be welded to the chassis near the rear suspension pivot point. The third tab is for the hydraulic clutch line termination point. It will be welded just below the transaxle and a flex line will connect from the termination point to the slave cylinder on the trans. Mike.

rmtipw.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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Well, I think these are the last few pictures of the car in the mock up stage. It is about ready to blow apart for final welding. Thanks for all the comments and I will try to post more pictures up as it is being finished. Mike.

Here are a couple of pics of the car as it sits right now.
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11a907a.jpg


This is a picture of the many floorboard tabs that I had to fabricate. You can also see the passenger footrest brackets and the tabs for the ice chest mount just ahead of the footrest.
348otn4.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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This is a picture of the passenger grab bar. My wife thought that a bent and welded one looked better in this particular application than the clamp on style.
30kamoj.jpg


This is the floorboard templates made and mocked into position.
oqlxf5.jpg


This last picture is of the nitrous bottle mount fabricated and welded into place. Once the side panels are installed the mounting tabs and fasteners will not be seen. Battery is easily accessed by removing the bottle and it is right there.
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MOPARINMYCAR

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Fantastic build and you have some very good fabrication skill there. Can I ask what is your method for producing all of the the tabs and gusset plate you are making there ? as they are also done to a very good standard.

Thanks MIMC
 
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zmotorsports

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Fantastic build and you have some very good fabrication skill there. Can I ask what is your method for producing all of the the tabs and gusset plate you are making there ? as they are also done to a very good standard.

Thanks MIMC

Thank you. All of my brackets, gussets and tabs are fabricated old school. No lazer cutting or water jet method (I wish I had the capabilities in my shop). I prefer to use P&O steel (cold rolled) due to the lack of mill scale but it does cost a little more. I just blue the steel and make a cardboard template. I then transfer the template to the blued steel. After having everything scribed I like to use the vertical band saw to cut within about .030" from the scribed line.

Most brackets will have a bolt hole in them so I drill that out next on one and then use it to transfer the center to each of the others. The key is to use one for the template to keep the margin of error low. After getting them cut I bolt the brackets together and then use the disc sander to grind them all to the same size. This may sound like a time consuming task, however, it actually goes fairly fast and a person can get pretty proficient at it with excellent results. Hope that helped, Mike.
 

MOPARINMYCAR

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Not to different from how I do mine the only differenece is you have a band saw and I have to use a 1mm slitting disc which is not as fast as with a band saw. I do have a wood bandsaw but I have been told this will be to fast for cutting steel? what speed do yours run at Mike ?

Thanks MIMC
 

blue dog

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I realize what you and i do are different, but if i may suggest a few things for your tubework for safety. Add a cross braces in the area above the engine, this will stiffen up the chassis as well as give the cage work some strength.
Add v bars in the windshield area to your cross member and then down to the main tubes of your chassis. this is important in a rollover at any speed. lastly, I would work in a extra bar on the sides right behind the seats that tie into the horizontal tubes on the sides of the chassis. I am assuming that the tubing is 1 1/2" dom 120 wall. There really is not a lot to protect you in a rollover as it is now. Just something to think about.
Looks fun, enjoy and be safe.
 
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zmotorsports

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Not to different from how I do mine the only differenece is you have a band saw and I have to use a 1mm slitting disc which is not as fast as with a band saw. I do have a wood bandsaw but I have been told this will be to fast for cutting steel? what speed do yours run at Mike ?

Thanks MIMC

I will have to look when I get to the shop but I think it is either 125 or 150 fpm. Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

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Broke the car down over the weekend and took the parts to the chrome shop on Monday.

I have been doing all the final welding over the last couple of nights and getting the chassis ready to send off for powder coating hopefully at the first of next week. I am playing with my bead roller a little so I can fabricate my side panels. My aluminum sheet is in and I am going to pick it up today on my lunch hour.

I have done several small items such as tanks and some offsets/beads with my roller but nothing as big as my side panels. They are six feet in length and 14" tall. I am a little nervous to mess up $100.00 sheet of aluminum. Mike.
 

doggerdowns

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Mike, you and I have talked before on the phone, about you building me a buggy frame,I live in Kentucky,I think you were in the middle of moving your shop.I am still interested in a buggy if you are wanted to build one.
 

anythingfastxxx

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The 13B has street ports, a Turbonetics T-04 turbo with a Deltagate wastegate, Weber IDF carb. It will also have a 60hp NOS setup installed.

The engine should put out approx. 350-365 hp at 12 lbs. boost. I hope to have the entire car weigh in right at 900 lbs., maybe just a tad over. It should end up being a pretty wild ride with that kind of power to weight ratio. Mike.



My favorite part of this thread. :beer:
 

blue dog

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Again, do yourself a favor and add some tubes to the cage, with that kind of power and that weight, that thing will fly. I am not being a **** here, i am just telling you that the tubework that you would expect to save you in a rollover is not sufficient. I am assuming that is 1.5" DOM, look at what is above your head, and how the geometry is. By adding around 30' of tubing will make a huge difference in safety.
Just trying to give you some sound advise, i have been doing this for a long time and have seen tops like that crushed at Glamis and Dumont more times then i care to have ever seen.
Your car, your choice, just do not put kids in it with out beefing it up and nets to keep the little ones arms safe in a rollover.
Better to be safe then sorry.
 
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zmotorsports

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Update. I picked up the brightwork yesterday afternoon. The polish on the aluminum parts and the chrome looks AWESOME.
Console and shift linkage:
29n7csg.jpg


Exhaust, shock reservoir clamps and steering:
dy6912.jpg


Transmission/engine cradle:
2ev3og3.jpg


Suspension Bolts: The little details like machining the knurls off of the socket head cap screws takes more time than I thought but well worth the work.
2zjfkn8.jpg


Smaller bracket bolts and misc. fasteners:
28bdzr7.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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Well I picked up the frame Friday night. The color looks great. I am not used to having someone else apply my paint, I usually paint all of my own stuff. However, considering that I didn't want to wait until it warmed up a little to paint it and I also decided to have it powder coated rather than paint for a little more durability I opted to have a local shop powder coat it. They did a great job and it is pretty consistant for a candy color. Mike.

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Here is a picture with the chrome transmission cradle set into place.

2qlhekp.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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Well, I was able to get caught up on clients work and start some final assembly over the weekend. I bent and polished the stainless steel brake and clutch lines then assembled the front suspension and mounted the transaxle.

The next major task it to wire the car and after that is should go fairly quick to do it mostly being just bolting things together. I have a few paying jobs the remainder of the week so I hope to start the electrical the first part of next week. Thanks for looking, Mike.

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This picture shows the brake and clutch lines that were a PITA to get symmetrical and evenly spaced.

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Griff93

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Man that turned out nice! Glad to see it got finished. As others have said, take some pictures when you get to try it out.
 

TireTracks

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I bet that would do 9's in the quarter with slicks on it. Nice work! I wish i could have something like that. Lots of Sand in Eastern Or and WA but no money to play in it.
 

Mr.N

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Very nice build! Can't wait to see a video of it in the sand.
I start off roading in a VW, almost turned it into a rail...



Have you tested your articulation on the rear axle?
It looks from the picture that the placement of the shock reserve might be an issue. Seem an odd spot to place it, I'd suggest on the tube next to the top of the shock.
 
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zmotorsports

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Very nice build! Can't wait to see a video of it in the sand.
I start off roading in a VW, almost turned it into a rail...



Have you tested your articulation on the rear axle?
It looks from the picture that the placement of the shock reserve might be an issue. Seem an odd spot to place it, I'd suggest on the tube next to the top of the shock.


The shock reservoir is not attached in this picture, it is just hanging. It is going to be attached to the tube that angles downward towards the transmission via aluminum clamps. I cycled the suspension travel prior to deciding on placement to make sure it will clear the axle tubes. Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

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On the home stretch!

I have been able to get a lot done over the weekend. The engine is in and the electrical is hooked up. I ran all of the wires then removed from the car to cover and form a complete harness. Last night I ran the fuel lines, installed the radiator and hooked up the throttle cable.

All that is left to do at this point is install the turbo, plumbing to the turbo, boost guage and line, install brakes and bleed, mount floorboards and add fluids. After that is done it can go to the upholstery shop then ready to hit the dunes for some tweaking and fine tuning. Mike.

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A shot of the rear. I love this view.

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Looking forward.

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Car on the lift for easier access for fuel line routing.

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Shot of the engine bay.

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zmotorsports

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SHE RUNS!!!!!! After a seven month build she runs.

I have had a couple of long nights trying to tie up the loose ends and get it ready to go to the upholstery shop.

Monday night I was able to get the brakes installed and bled along with the clutch bled.

Tuesday night I installed the Turbo and all of the related plumbing.

Last night I filled the transaxle and engine with lubricants and the coolant. I then put a couple gallons of Sunoco in the tank and hooked up the battery.

My stomach always gets tied into knots prior to firing up any project build. After checking over all electrical connections with a VOM and making sure all of the wiring was correct I fired her up. She only turned over about a dozen times or so then fired right to life. What a wonderful sound that rotary puts out.

I am so happy I don't think the wife can take much more of me. I am ready for it to go out for upholstery and then a night or two to install the seats and sidepanels and a ton of detailing then ready for the sand.

Thanks for all the comments and for those who have encouragingly followed this build-up. I have never posted a complete build-up from start to finish before and have been very happy and I have appreciated the comments. Mike.
 

jhn9840

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Your sandrail is a work of art. You got every reason to be proud. Thanks for posting this build and keeping it updated. Please let us see it after the upholstery has been added.

jhn9840
John
 
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zmotorsports

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what are you getting upholstered? its definatly looking sweet. should be fun in the dunes

I am having interiror side panels made and covered in gray tweed to match the suspension seats, they will have a small pocket incorporated into them so the wife can carry her sunglasses, chapstick or whatever she needs to take with her. The tweed material will be attached to fiberboard with a thin foam between the fiberboard and the material much like a streetrod door panel. The material will carry up and over the top rail which will have the polished aluminum side panels attach from the outside and hide the attachment area.

I am also having a cooler cover made for the small 6-pack cooler that is mounted in front of the passenger footrest and floorboard covers made which will cover about 2/3 of each floorboard to keep the aluminum from getting scratched from shoes. The polished aluminum will be visible around the sides of the floorboards but the centers will be covered where your feet ride by the pedals and the passenger footrest. Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

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Well she's finally done!!!

After 15 plus years of planning and saving money & parts plus seven long months of work it is finally completed. I know it is not as nice as many of the super high dollar long travel 600+ HP LS powered cars that are being built nowadays but on my smaller budget I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. Besides that I still think that many of the details and the overall workmanship is what is more appealing than just having a lot of expensive parts thrown at a car.

It should be a nice first car and I hope it is a head turner when it hits the dunes. Most of the people we go to the dunes with don't even look at a sandrail driving by unless it has 20+ inches of wheel travel and an LS motor hanging out the back. I have caught quite a bit of ridicule from some friends because I did not just bite the bullet and build a long travel rail with mega-horsepower but I cannot bring myself to refinance my house for a toy that I will drive 6-10 times a year. Thanks for looking, Mike.

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View of polished side panels installed.
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Interior shots. Check out the subtle design in the floorboard panels that my upholstery guy thought would look good and the cooler cover so I don't have to look at an ugly plain cooler. Mike.

2cngwog.jpg


amw677.jpg
 
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zmotorsports

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granted, i don't know anything about sand rails, so... what are the 2 extra shifters in the middle?


The two levers in front of the shifter are the cutter brakes. On a mid-engine car they are not as necessary as a rear engined car but I intalled them anyway. Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

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Well, I have had fun with it this summer but haven't downloaded my camera in a while. I forgot some of these pictures were still on it. Here are a few pictures of the rail when we first unloaded it on it mayden voyage to St. Anthony, Idaho dunes and as well as a couple of shots of the wife and I buzzing around a bowl after getting it dialed in.

Thanks for all of the support and kind words during my build.

Mike.

5d5g82.jpg


296c0v9.jpg


eg4wh3.jpg


2uy52sn.jpg
 
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