mig purchase help
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sberry
Banned
A Millermatic is a standard mig. If you are staying in shop get a 180/200 class which run on 240v. New 210/211 are dvi and run on either. They allow the use of a larger wire which gives it a lot more punch for structural work.
Most mig models today are very good, the competition has become so intense that they have weeded the losers from the line ups. The red ones, the Lincs from the box stores are very good, a 180 under 700$ I think. All the Hobarts are very good too. I think the 190 is about that price, the 140 are a couple hundred cheaper, the 210 which are dvi about 300 more.
Most mig models today are very good, the competition has become so intense that they have weeded the losers from the line ups. The red ones, the Lincs from the box stores are very good, a 180 under 700$ I think. All the Hobarts are very good too. I think the 190 is about that price, the 140 are a couple hundred cheaper, the 210 which are dvi about 300 more.
sberry
Banned
140 machines run from 120v They work well with 023 wire for sheet metal. Work quite well to about 1/8 but are slower and just so limited by the circuit.
I might be tempted to look for used deals on 140 class as there are some for sale, many when a guy realized he should have got a 200. Ha
I might be tempted to look for used deals on 140 class as there are some for sale, many when a guy realized he should have got a 200. Ha
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anndel
Well-known member
I have a Hobart Handler 140 and it's enough for my needs - repairing fence brackets, some light body work, etc. Don't have 240V in the garage except for the dryer so I opted for a 110V model and Hobarts get good reviews.
DSLTRK
Well-known member
The Hobart Handler and Lincoln Powermig 140 are both very nice machines. Hobart is owned by Miller, and is very similar to the older Millermatic 140.
I don't think it's worth the extra 350 bucks for a blue machine over the Hobart.
I don't think it's worth the extra 350 bucks for a blue machine over the Hobart.
sberry
Banned
There is a reason for that with these. You just cant wring more out of a small one. But they would be correct, a 140 does it for a lot of people and I might even be able to make it if I lived in the burbs. Better than no welder.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
If all you plan to use it for is welding patch panels, a 130-140 machine on 110 will easily blow holes in sheet metal. A bigger machine just makes it easier to blow bigger holes.
Seriously, I got a used Lincoln 130 just for this purpose. It works great.
Seriously, I got a used Lincoln 130 just for this purpose. It works great.
sberry
Banned
I got my first 140 not too long ago. Its handy to have small wire and even used it portable a couple times so far. I used it on a couple super thin jobs, a size smaller wire has its place.
I used to be a Miller fan but now giving Lincoln and Everlast a try. I just dont think there is a reason to pay more for the name. If you are a professional and depend on your welder for a living...maybe. I had a Miller 180 that I had for 10 years. Only had 1 40lb spool of wire though it and now it doesnt work. Needs a new circuit board for $300. I just bought a Lincoln open box at Home Depot for $225. Been working like a champ.
And while you cant weld thicker metals in one pass with a small mig, you can make a couple passes. I just built a toe jack for machinery and made it from 1/2" steel. I just made 3 passes on the structural parts.
And while you cant weld thicker metals in one pass with a small mig, you can make a couple passes. I just built a toe jack for machinery and made it from 1/2" steel. I just made 3 passes on the structural parts.
aka Larry
Well-known member
Someone has to say it, so I will. Depending on your budget, the new offering from HF get pretty good reviews. Myself, I have a Lincoln 140 that I bought used 10 years ago, and I'm perfectly happy with it, but if I were buying a small welder today, I'd strongly consider one from HF.
Bottom line, if you have the coin, get a Miller or Lincoln. If you have less coin, get a Hobart, or maybe one from HF.
Bottom line, if you have the coin, get a Miller or Lincoln. If you have less coin, get a Hobart, or maybe one from HF.
sberry
Banned
The Hobarts and the box store Lincs are very good. They are simple and don't have all the super features they use to drive the pricing up. 25 years ago I bought one from a dealer, 625$ and they still are only 700,,, same machine. The reason for all the gizmo stuff on them is they needed a price raise and the competition is so fierce that they couldn't get it up without some more bling. Dvi, auto set, auto track, spool gun ready, all that stuff.
They weld the same, the cheaper ones are single voltage, tap voltage and the operator has to set it. They weld very well though. I have 10 machines, the little red one is still my main one, do 95% of the work with it.
They weld the same, the cheaper ones are single voltage, tap voltage and the operator has to set it. They weld very well though. I have 10 machines, the little red one is still my main one, do 95% of the work with it.
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FSrepair&fabrication
Well-known member
Miller is top of the line when it comes to welders. only 2 out of 5 welders we have are miller, but they are my favorites. It depends on what you plan to use it for really. If its light work and done infrequently a cheaper machine may be the economical move. But if youre like most on GJ, youll find 1000 other things to use it for once you have it, so if budget isnt a huge concern Id go with the miller. The MM is one of the nicest welding migs ive used once you get it dialed in, and you wont be limited by duty cycle as you would with a cheaper machine. If you have a roberts oxygen in your area sometimes they will have last years showroom model discounted super low. My buddy bought his trailblazer this way.
Stooge
Well-known member
A Hobart 140 would be my suggestion as well if you are going to be primarily doing the thin stuff, using it for sheet metal and light gauge steel to maybe 1/8", but if you plan on welding 3/16"+ (frame, suspension, etc welding) I would suggest stepping up to a bigger machine. For my car projects, my miller 211 has done everything I've needed of it, from thin rusty sheet metal to 1/4" single pass frame and suspension work. no one likes to spend extra money if they don't have to, and getting all set up with tank, helmet, gloves, wire, etc adds up, but its also a kick in the pants after you spend that money, to then not have the capability 6months- a yr down the line when you realize you need to weld on new axle brackets or something thick and you need to start farming stuff out for a job you could have banged out in half an hour. Be honest with yourself with what you'll be using the machine for. (I had a Hobart 140, and "outgrew" it / needed more within a few months and upgraded to the 211)
sberry
Banned
I agree with this if a guy has some work for it. The machine portion of the price difference in this equation can make it worthwhile to step up. The 211 is a machine a guy could use a lot. I know a guy retired from the motors, bought 2 welding machines and gonna do it all. 211 and a Dynasty. 1200 decked out at the time and 5 grand. Used the 211 quite a bit and the Dynasty 10 minutes, 5 of it practice, coulda done the work spoolgun easier.
This all depends on how a guy values 3 or 400 difference in a machine. I am in business at all hours, it can be totally unexpected and it is my trade, I can say in the long run the cheapest machines have made the most and done most of the work. I have 10 miles of aluminum pipe and hundreds of fittings. If it wasn't for that could near count on one hand the demand I have had for aluminum over the decades. Most people can go thru life without an aluminum welder, cheaper to pay a little really.
But steel is another matter. 1000's of welds, 1000's of brackets breaks and small mods and some projects. Made 4 welds today on a bracket. About a minute of arc. Fixed a wheelbarrow. Could and would have done it with a 140 but used a 180 wide open as it was with 030. Anything thicker than autobody sheet the larger wire works so much better and faster.
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Ign
Well-known member
I've bounced off the duty cycle A LOT on a Miller 135, but this was arguably light production work, welding welded-wire fence to steel frames.
The annoying thing is that once they overheat they trip that much easier after allowing you to weld again, until they FULLY cool like overnight. Some claim tripping the thermal is damaging to the machine but I don't believe this and Miller tech support confirmed when I asked.
Just remember the 110V 140A class machines are really only happy with .023 solid. Yes, people run .030 but I can also put 3000# in the bed of a half ton truck - doesn't mean it's a good idea or that it won't struggle
Similarly the 210A class machines are great w .030 but struggle w .035. Again, congratulations if you do it but drop to .030 and you'll HEAR the arc improve
Now flux is a completely different matter - I only run .035 flux no matter what. I've had nightmare feed issues and bird nesting w .030 flux - it's just too flimsy
The annoying thing is that once they overheat they trip that much easier after allowing you to weld again, until they FULLY cool like overnight. Some claim tripping the thermal is damaging to the machine but I don't believe this and Miller tech support confirmed when I asked.
Just remember the 110V 140A class machines are really only happy with .023 solid. Yes, people run .030 but I can also put 3000# in the bed of a half ton truck - doesn't mean it's a good idea or that it won't struggle
Similarly the 210A class machines are great w .030 but struggle w .035. Again, congratulations if you do it but drop to .030 and you'll HEAR the arc improve
Now flux is a completely different matter - I only run .035 flux no matter what. I've had nightmare feed issues and bird nesting w .030 flux - it's just too flimsy
I must say, sberry, SWEET welder cart. I lobe it man. Genius idea and you probably have $0.00 in it..i love it
sberry
Banned
Got rid of junk at the same time.
I found a Hobart 125 with gas on Craigslist. It's been great for thin metal. Most of all my welding is done with stick. Since I have gotten the tiny mig, I now think I want a 220v mig. If you have a 220 outlet, get the bigger machine. While the small migs are nice and probably fit your needs, the big ones are much more practical (weld thicker metal and higher duty cycle).
can you weld with a 140 class welder? sure can
if you want a real welder, move up to the 180 class and 220 power.
think about it, you are melting two pieces of metal and filler (wire in this case) at the same time. this is not 110 volt work.i have a 211 and i am almost always welding in the upper range which is the 240 volt range on a 211. i have done some serious welding and never tripped the overheat. would never consider a welder that was at least capable of running on 220.
if you want a real welder, move up to the 180 class and 220 power.
think about it, you are melting two pieces of metal and filler (wire in this case) at the same time. this is not 110 volt work.i have a 211 and i am almost always welding in the upper range which is the 240 volt range on a 211. i have done some serious welding and never tripped the overheat. would never consider a welder that was at least capable of running on 220.
sberry
Banned
I will agree, my small 180 sits around on high most of the time. A 211 is still a small machine.