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MIG welder 110 or 220

Bucklagrim

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Dec 7, 2012
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Hey all, been lurking here for awhile and wondered if I could have the members of this forum help me make my decision. I am looking to get a mig welder to do sheet metal repairs on my Jeep cj5. I already have a 220 ac/DC stick set up for thicker steel and need the MIG mostly for thin stuff. That said I know the 200 amp machine will run better and do more, but I'm not made of money. The two welders I'm looking at are the Hobart handler 140 and Miller MVP 210 or 211 (can't remember the model number). I would be looking to run gas. The Hobart runs about $450 without bottle and I can get the Miller with empty bottle locally for about $950. Appreciate the help!
 
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bad12jr

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I think the miller will do both 110/220 iirc. I'd buy as big as you can afford. Always easier to turn one down. I have an older Lincoln sp125. Works great for what I do. Got a smoking deal on it or I would have bought a 180 new which is a 220 machine.



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madcrisis

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I was recently in a similiar situation. I opted to get a 110 due to the fact that i had stick welders already for the heavy welding. I picked up a longevity migweld 140. Good little machine even though it is chinese but it was cheap and came with a 5 year warranty.

The hobart has tapped voltage settings but other than that it is a very solid machine. Everyone raves about that miller and everyone who gets one falls in love instantly from what ive read. Both machines have the regulators and hoses included for gas which is always a plus.

I'd say if you don't mind spending the money go for the 211 all the way. If you'd rather save a few bucks then go for the hobart. Just realize the handler 140 has its limitations but again you have the sticks for those situations. Since your only doing sheet metal with it both machines will be more than satisfactory. But again if you dont mind spending the money the 211 will tackle anything you throw at it and will last forever.
 

kazlx

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220. You can't weld with amps you don't have. You won't regret a bigger machine.
 
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Bucklagrim

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Thanks for your replies. I guess I can understand the concept of rather have and not need then need and not have. I am also reassured by the resale welders seem to enjoy. I've been checking craigslist for three months now and used welders bring close to what a new one would cost. Its just that my current welder does all I need other than sheet metal and the 140 would work fine for sheet metal. The Miller would allow me to do aluminum with the addition of a spool gun though.
 

sberry

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This is a place in the tool world its worth a little extra stretch to get a little better unit. The 140 is a fine machine but the circuit one is trying to use is less than ideal for welding. A 200 class machine is 2x as good.
 

fhemm20

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I have a thermal arc 211i and love it. It's a 3 in 1 machine and it does 110 and 220. If you can front the cost for it then unload your stick machine to offset your cost, I'd do that. I got mine with the tig setup and heavy duty cart for a little over 1300. Plus if you ever want to do aluminum mig down the road, it's spool gun capable as well
 

shoot summ

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Lot's of good comments here. I'd love to have a bigger 220 machine, but the reality is that 99% of what I do can be accomplished with my little 135/110v. Plus I can take it outside and weld where I need to(with enough of the right gauge cord), and I can take to a friend's house if I need to.

So the question is what do you want to weld?
 

bsaint

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Definitely 220. Even with the same current output, the 220 will run more efficient on the primary side. 110 will have a lot more current = heat = wasted energy.
 
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bobcatdan

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As much as I like the dual voltage of a miller 211, I think I'd side on the 140 amp for what you want to do. A 140 will handle sheet metal all day. On the heavy side, your arc weld will out weld a 211. I'm split on this about 51 to 49, but for body panels, a 220 machines is overkill. That said, going to 220 gives the machine added ability and you may find it completely replaces the arc. I prefer mig 10 to 1 arc. Talking out both sides of mouth I guess isn't real help .
 
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Tim C

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Dec 21, 2012
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I've got the miller mvp211. I love it. It'll run 220 volts in my shop and when I have to weld somewhere else the plug on the end of the cord will swap in less than 30 seconds to 110 volt and I can plug it in anywhere. Its heavier than my old Lincoln 135 but still portable. It welds way better than my old 110 volt mig ever did.

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sberry

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Mig is the workhorse of a small shop. I am a career stick welder but will take wire if possible. The 240 machines have a little punch and as someone mentioned nearly replace a stick in this kind of environment.
 

bcradio

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Lot's of good comments here. I'd love to have a bigger 220 machine, but the reality is that 99% of what I do can be accomplished with my little 135/110v. Plus I can take it outside and weld where I need to(with enough of the right gauge cord), and I can take to a friend's house if I need to.

So the question is what do you want to weld?

We aren't trying to match your requirements, we are trying to match the OPs. He suggested buying a 120v only machine or one that can do 120v AND 240v. This means the machine can still be taken anywhere your little 135 can just as easily.

I say go for the miller 211 as you may want to expand what you weld later. But how the heck did you find it for such a cheap price?
 

sk farmer

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go with a 220 volt, there are very few garages that can't get 220 with very little work. if you have an electric dryer or water heater, you have 220 nearby and should be able to tap into that source.

i have a miller 211 and have not used my old forney stick welder since (over 2 years). i have done a fair amount of repairs and fabrication and it has done it all.

someone mentioned duty cycle. the miller 211 will do 150 amps, 23.5 volts at 30%. the 140 will only do 90 amps 18 volts at 20%. even when welding at 110 volts, the 211 outperforms the 140 by having a 90 amp, 20 volts at 20%. the 211 also outperforms the 180 which is 130 amps, 22.5 volts at 30% duty cycle.

the 211 is not full size mig welder but it will do everything that 140 class welder will do. outperform the 180 class welders and do nearly as much as the 212, a full size mig welder. imop, the 211 is the clear winner in the compact welder category. it is a little more money but the features and performance are worth it in the end.
 

y5e06

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The miller MVP, the best of both words. a year down the road you'll forget about the price difference.
I have a 220 Mig and there were many times I wish it ran on 120 for portability, yet i very rarely did anything thicker than 1/8".
If 120 OR 220, and given you indication of mostly thin stuff I'd say 120 machine if you don't get something dual voltage. However, with true mig wire you'll be running with a tank and likely all strapped to a cart.... so the quick portability argument becomes weaker already.

Thing is, i found myself doing car stuff (not offroad machines) and ended running 0.030" mig wire as a compromise and leaving the 0.035" on the shelf. I didn't bother w/ 0.023" as most my stuff was race car repair or hidden repairs and may still have a thicker part or two to take care of.

Heck, now I sorta want a 120 machine w/ just flux core for the best portability...

also note, a bottle might cost you $175-200 from a vendor. The guys i get mine filled at said they would not take an exchange (typical fill) of a bottle that wasn't theirs already. I haven't tried filling anywhere else to see if that is common among supliers. So if that MVP comes w/ a bottle, make sure you can exchange it somewhere or else you could be looking at that extra cost.
 
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sparky7

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Dec 13, 2010
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miller 211 is what i got, it will burn 3/8 in HOT on a single pass. I would not hesitate to double pass 1/2 steel with mine. Its a powerful machine.

One thing to keep in mind is that the hobart 210 is essentially the same welder but for 300 bucks less. I paid up for the blue version but its really not necessary.
 

tedsters

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that 140 hobart is a good machine but if was in your shoes i would by a Hobart 190 which is a great welder and spool gun capable i think you can pick that up at TSC with a spool gun for around $900 then you can do aluminum also, i had a HH187 for 5 yrs or so and sold it to my cousin and i got a 250amp Miller Matic Vintage i wish i would have kept the hobart around to, that hobart 190 is a heck of a good welder and smooth, has a soft arc start and good wet out puddle and plenty of power you can do 5/16 steel with it and i have done 3/8 with the 187 the only reason i got the MM Vintage is i can do body work with it or burn 1/2in steel with it
 

Falcon67

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I hear you all. Guess I'll buy once and cry once and go with the miller.

Good plan. I have a Hobart 140 and it's a fine machine. I can't wait to sell it and buy a 210 MVP. Dual voltage is the deal, because when you need the amps, you need the amps.
 
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Bucklagrim

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Dec 7, 2012
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Well I went ahead and picked up a Hobart 210 mvp at tractor supply. They wanted $899, but I talked them down 5% as it was the display. Haven't welded with it yet. I'll let ya yall know what I think of it when I do.
 

rodhotter

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Dec 23, 2015
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hobart a USA made product is under the Miller umberella now + many USA branded units are globally aka import built. i am researching + the Everlast inverter-Mig units are chinese built to their specs + have a 5 yr warranty + leading my selection. you can get a 110-220 mig 200E, E for economy for $555 from them directly!! still looking + learning though as black friday deals may be coming from many!!
 

finn

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As usual, I’ll be the contrary here

I have a 240 v Miller and a 120 v HTP that’s probably 25?years old. I can’t remember the last time I plugged in the Miller. All my sheet metal work is easily handled by the 120v HTP with .025 wire.

I also have a HTP inverter Tig that I occasionally use for aluminum.

Bigger is better when you’re spending someone else’s money, but auto body work isn’t a place that you need a large, high amp welder.
 
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