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Sweetcorn

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Feb 14, 2018
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673
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North Central Ohio
I'm a Miller guy to the core, but Lincoln Super-Arc is great stuff.

A spool of mig wire will last most non-commercial operations a very, very long time. Don't cheap out (spend the extra 20 bucks) and your wire will be the least of your welding problems.
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I always use one of those lubrication pads on the wire just before it goes into the drive wheels. I use a large paper clip to hole the pad in place. 45 years later and I have not had driven wire problem. My welder is MILLERMATIC 200. I use only MILLER consumables. ALTHOUGH, my welding gun is BINZEL. I did not like the original GA20C from MILLER.

 

Walkers

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Cave Creek Az
If you want the best, bar none, wire, then you will want Lincoln L-56. It is the only wire I run anymore in the shop, and I run it every day. It is sprndy. It will likely run you 2-3$ a pound higher than other wire brands, but for me it pays off in no feed problems and easier arc starts.
 

Walkers

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isb cornbinder

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Do you have a Millermatic 200?
I do have a Millermatic 200. It is 45 years old. It is a Miller with the ACKMATID livery on the orange case. I painted the orange case, grey.
I got my MM200 from a welder supply. It was a repossession. I paid the outstanding balance on the account and the Miller was loaded in my truck. My cost was $1400.
I did mention, my welder is a Millermatic 200.
 

Walkers

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I do have a Millermatic 200. It is 45 years old. It is a Miller with the ACKMATID livery on the orange case. I painted the orange case, grey.
I got my MM200 from a welder supply. It was a repossession. I paid the outstanding balance on the account and the Miller was loaded in my truck. My cost was $1400.
I did mention, my welder is a Millermatic 200.
If you look at the quote in my post it says your welder is a Milker, but not a 200, your post was edited after my quote to say MILLERMATIC 200.
I just recognized the gun number, I that was what my 200 from '86 had.
 

bdbecker

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Nov 18, 2015
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Iowa
If you want the best, bar none, wire, then you will want Lincoln L-56. It is the only wire I run anymore in the shop, and I run it every day. It is sprndy. It will likely run you 2-3$ a pound higher than other wire brands, but for me it pays off in no feed problems and easier arc starts.

Totally agree... Lincoln L-56 would be my first suggestion as well.

Hobart and ESAB also make good wire and I wouldn't hesitate to go with one of them if you can't get your hands on Lincoln for some reason. House brands like Radnor from Airgas can be hit or miss and just aren't worth the gamble in my opinion, especially for a hobbyist/home gamer that is only going to buy a spool every now and then. I'd avoid no-name China wire at all costs... ain't nobody got time for that.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
I use Hobart wire. I buy 10lb spools from TSC.

I also have a piece of blue paper towel over the wire with a clothes pin to clean it off.
 

zmotorsports

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I like the Lincoln L-56 but it's been difficult to get from my supplier lately for the past several years.

The last couple of rolls I've purchased have been Pinnacle .030" ER70S-6 and I really like it. Can't tell much of a difference from the L-56 to be honest.
 
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jjrbus

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Florida
Not sure which one to buy but the flux core that came with a cheap Harbor Freight welder was barely usable.
 

BD1

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north side
I agree with the others, Lincoln Super Arc L-56 is definitely the best. That's all I've been using forever.
 

imagineer

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Dec 13, 2015
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Location
Ohio
My steel MIG is a smaller one, Lincoln Weld-Pak 155 with a gas kit (and I'm an occasional hobbyist welder).

I've used MIG wire from Lincoln, Hobart and Vulcan (Harbor Freight), large and small spools, and have never had a feed problem with any. The only difference I could spot had nothing to do with the quality of the weld, but the Lincoln brand wire seems to not show rust as quickly.
 

jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
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MN
My welds are way more pretty with Hobart. Feeding was never an issue.
 

speed bump

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Butte Montana
As long as it's not super cheap wire I really haven't ever noticed at a difference in ER70-S6. If you want to do something special there is stuff like Esabs EZ grind or you can look at something alloyed if you want better impact resistance or some other trait.
 

oldmachinenut

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Missing, presumed dead in central Pa.
If you look at the quote in my post it says your welder is a Milker, but not a 200, your post was edited after my quote to say MILLERMATIC 200.
I just recognized the gun number, I that was what my 200 from '86 had.
My MM200 also had the GA20C gun, kind of pre-historic looking and hard to find liners and nozzles for. I replaced it with a Miller M25 gun, it is much nicer to use.
 

The Cobbler

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Not sure which one to buy but the flux core that came with a cheap Harbor Freight welder was barely usable.
had the same experience with Princess Auto welder. had a heck of a time trying to weld with it. once that roll was gone & I put in( whatever brand I put in, can't recall) welding was a breeze. no means am I an expert welder. I am good enough to get by on most things.
 

jjrbus

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Dec 8, 2018
Messages
619
Location
Florida
had the same experience with Princess Auto welder. had a heck of a time trying to weld with it. once that roll was gone & I put in( whatever brand I put in, can't recall) welding was a breeze. no means am I an expert welder. I am good enough to get by on most things.
One issue with the cheap flux core welders is they are AC current, DC is easier to use as the arc is more stable. If I were going to buy a welder instead of borrowing my neighbors $99 Harbor Frieght I would buy a DC unit. Some claim to be able to mod the cheap units to DC.

Long time ago I was a welder, now I am a grinder, I spend far more time grinding the mess than I do welding.
 
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