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Mill dolly / mobile base

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jxxxoxxxe

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Feb 15, 2007
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The oiler has black, white and ground, it operates at 120 volts. There is no way it could trip out the spindle motor. I looked at the CNC Mazak I run at work. It has the same type of oiler but; downstream attached to the oil line there is a pressure switch that is wired into the ladder in the controls. The Bijor itself can't kill the operation of the machine, only the reading from the separate pressure switch can do that. I can't see anything like that on the old girl.

Thats exactly what mine has, and the float switch allows 120 volts through to activate the contactors...the black and white on mine arent hot and neutral, they just pass the current through the switch....

I'll try to make it out to snap some pics of mine today...
 
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CAlhoon

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I just brought up this thread and found you beat me to the punch. Yes the oiler is important, it will not run without it. There is a wire from the start switch #33 that passes through the oiler (wierd) but that is how it works. I have an emergency stop button which I want to leave off. As it turns out it is a closed circuit which opens when your press it, therefore I put a jumper arcross the panel and eliminated it. I have the power quill option on this mill. The little DC motor starts and runs in both directions but I can't for the life of me figure out how this thing transfers power to the quill. there is no direct connection, it has a large bearing on the front which is free to run off center. It rubs up against a tube which is filled with ****** fluid. They call it a harmonic drive??
 

A_Pmech

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I just brought up this thread and found you beat me to the punch. Yes the oiler is important, it will not run without it. There is a wire from the start switch #33 that passes through the oiler (wierd) but that is how it works.

Correct. Labeled "LLS" on the schematic. Wire #33 makes up part of what is commonly called the "start" side of a 3-wire control circuit. Should the oil supply run low, the spindle motor won't start, but will continue to run if it is running when LLS opens.

I have an emergency stop button which I want to leave off. As it turns out it is a closed circuit which opens when your press it, therefore I put a jumper arcross the panel and eliminated it.

I would leave that connected if I were you. :)

I have the power quill option on this mill. The little DC motor starts and runs in both directions but I can't for the life of me figure out how this thing transfers power to the quill. there is no direct connection, it has a large bearing on the front which is free to run off center. It rubs up against a tube which is filled with ****** fluid. They call it a harmonic drive??

Harmonic drives are fascinating contraptions. The "large bearing" is called the "wave generator". For a good description of the operating principles, have a look here:

http://www.harmonicdrive.net/reference/operatingprinciples/
 
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jxxxoxxxe

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so was the oiler switch the problem? Did you get the spindle running now?
 

CAlhoon

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Jun 22, 2010
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The spindle is operating correctly and I just finished the harmonic drive on the quill. Also working. I only have one of the large 90 volt DC motors and it is on the knee (Z) I removed it and took it apart. The ground wire had shed its insulation and was arcing near a brush. I took it completely apart and cleaned it. I reinsulated the GRD and reassembled. That was tricky but I pulled it off. I wired it up without installing it and it roared to life on the table traverse circuit(X,Y). I have to track down some gasket mat'l to install it. So far am a happy camper. The best part is they sold it to me cheap because the electrician said the boards were fried. Gotta love those big Union shops!As for the E STOP there is one at face level to kill the spindle. Why add one low down that I can barely see. Never had anything like that on any other Bridgeport mill I ran.
 

CAlhoon

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Jun 22, 2010
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Good old 10W-30 in the oiler. 90 weight in the gears for the Harmonic drive and ****** fluid in the drive itself. Also 90 weight in the traverse gear box.
followed by a quick paint job. Then onto the surface grinder.
 

CAlhoon

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Jun 22, 2010
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Installed the big 90 volt motor which is a Peerless Winsmith 183-18-0288 on the X'Y gear box. The mechanical end works great but the motor is throwing a blue arc from the brushes. Back to the drawing board!
 
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CAlhoon

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Jun 22, 2010
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The brushes looked good as did everything else . I'm baffled. It is all buttoned up and I have to rip it apart. All in all I guess I shouldn't complain.
I was just looking at those chinese digital read outs on E bay. 400 bucks with custom scales.
 

k.ross

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Aug 30, 2010
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I just purchased a couple of BP S2s that were slated for the scrap yard. One had been dropped, the other was really abused. Made one good one from the two. I am having problems getting mine to run as well. Glad you mentioned the lube pump! I have been looking everywhere for an electrical schematic. Does anyone have one that they could e-mail me. I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks. [email protected]
 

hippchip

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Oct 22, 2012
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Correct. Labeled "LLS" on the schematic. Wire #33 makes up part of what is commonly called the "start" side of a 3-wire control circuit. Should the oil supply run low, the spindle motor won't start, but will continue to run if it is running when LLS opens.



I would leave that connected if I were you. :)



Harmonic drives are fascinating contraptions. The "large bearing" is called the "wave generator". For a good description of the operating principles, have a look here:

http://www.harmonicdrive.net/reference/operatingprinciples/


I have a harmonic drive that is not working. The motor has field voltage but no armature voltage. Also, does anyone have a schematic of the harmonic drive quill power feed? Mine just shows a block on the diagram.
 

diebog

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Dec 12, 2012
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Grass Valley CA
Resurrecting an old thread here, but Ive been looking for a wiring diagram for the Bridgeport phase II ive been trying to get going. The person I got it from took the head off because the forklift they had was to small to pick up it all together so they just took all the wires off and allot of them don't have number tags so I have to find out where they go.
If anyone has something they can email me, my email is [email protected] Thanks
 

MBfreak

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Dec 10, 2010
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Linkoping , Sweden
Re: Mill dolly / mobile base/sparking DC motor

Hi,
if I can follow this interesting thread, I understand (?) that a DC motor is sparking at the commutator. If commutator, brushes appear in good order the sparking may be caused by the wrong brush position. Commutation has to take place close to the neutral position, if shifted from that there will be quite a voltage jump each time the brush finds a new commutator bar.

Several handbooks describe how to set/adjust the brush position, or take the motor to a good winding shop to have it done.

I am the lucky owner of a fantastic old style book called " Electric Motor repair"
PM me if you want some scanned pages related to finding the right brush position.

Best regards

Ola
 

diebog

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Dec 12, 2012
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Grass Valley CA
Would really appreciate it if someone could email me a copy of the manual so I can figure this wiring headache out. Thanks
 
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bimmer1980

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diebog--you might try sending AP_mech a "PM".... not sure if he is still checking these threads or not, so a "personal message" through the garage journal message center may be the quickest....

Did you try googling the manual? I was able to find a manual for my Series I bridgeport online that was downloadable.... I can't remember which site had it tho....

Best of luck...
 

diebog

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Grass Valley CA
Ya I found a download for series I, and for series II CNC, but not just the manual series II. I did send A_Pmech a message and he did respond. On Friday he said he had the manual I need. So hopefully its the one and I can figure this out. Thanks for the sugg.
 
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