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Miller 252 with 30A spool gun, what settings are you using?

TheEquineFencer

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I have a new 252 with a 30A spool gun, http://www.millerwelds.com/products/wire_feeders/pistol_grip_-_spoolmatic_30a/ , I'd never used one before until I used it to weld the latch on back of my G/F's AL horse trailer. It was 3/8 - 1/4 AL metal and it turned out OK. Trying to weld 0.063 AL is a joke so far. I have 0.035 wire, I think it's something like 4043, the AL is diamond plate 0.063 from Lowes. What settings/wire ect works? 100% Argon with about 30 CFM flow.
 
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Bondo

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I have a new 252 with a 30A spool gun, http://www.millerwelds.com/products/wire_feeders/pistol_grip_-_spoolmatic_30a/ , I'd never used one before until I used it to weld the latch on back of my G/F's AL horse trailer. It was 3/8 - 1/4 AL metal and it turned out OK. Trying to weld 0.063 AL is a joke so far. I have 0.035 wire, I think it's something like 4043, the AL is diamond plate 0.063 from Lowes. What settings/wire ect works? 100% Argon with about 30 CFM flow.

Ayuh,..... Switch to .030 wire, 'n turn the speed up as fast as it'll go, then adjust slower to match yer weldin' speed, which must be Fast as well,....

If ya get burn-thru's, spot weld it, or get a copper backer piece,....
 
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TheEquineFencer

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Not all Diamond plate is a weldable alloy.

That's what I'm starting to think. What is weldable and what is not? I got the plate at Lowes to screw down over some old tie down holes in her trailer. This is what I had left over and tried to weld it. If I "spot it" for VERY short burst it welded sort of OK. But I hate doing the gun on/off like that.
 

Bondo

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That's what I'm starting to think. What is weldable and what is not? I got the plate at Lowes to screw down over some old tie down holes in her trailer. This is what I had left over and tried to weld it. If I "spot it" for VERY short burst it welded sort of OK. But I hate doing the gun on/off like that.

Ayuh,.... Smaller wire will help,... but the gun don't care,....
I can spot down to .040, or thinner pieces with .030 wire,...
Short runs on .063, with .030 wire,...

My ole Lincoln has a function that'll make the gun spot weld at selectable intervals,....

I doubt the pieces you got are any sorta exotic alloy,...
Nothin' you shouldn't be able to weld,...
 

MoonRise

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For that I would guess 023 wire would be the way to go.

Not in aluminum wire. The smallest diameter listed/produced in aluminum electrode wire is 0.030.

Not all Diamond plate is a weldable alloy.

True, not all aluminum alloys are arc weldable.

That's what I'm starting to think. What is weldable and what is not? I got the plate at Lowes to screw down over some old tie down holes in her trailer. This is what I had left over and tried to weld it. If I "spot it" for VERY short burst it welded sort of OK. But I hate doing the gun on/off like that.

Sometimes, especially with MIG (GMAW) on 'thin' workpieces, doing a series of 'spot' welds is exactly what you have to do. Otherwise you get burn-through and/or a ton of warping/distortion.

I was looking at the lower grades of AL diamond plate, they have a **** load of copper in them.

As to 'weldable' aluminum alloys, most of the 3xxx and 6xxx and 5xxx series of aluminum alloys are generally considered weldable. The 'common' 3003 and 5052 and 6061 and 6063 aluminum alloys are generally 'weldable'.

Most of the 2xxx and 7xxx series of aluminum alloys are considered not weldable with arc-process welding. 7075 (a common 7xxx series alloy) is not considered weldable via arc-welding processes.

Aluminum treadplate? My supplier's catalogs list AL treadplate in 3003 and 6061. Both are considered weldable with arc-process welding.

GMAW, you need to do a 'push' when welding (with some minor exceptions).

If there's slag, then drag.

Which means that if the welding process you are using is a slag producing process (SMAW or FCAW), then you use a drag movement. Generally.

GMAW is not a slag process, so you (generally) should use a push movement and not a drag movement.

But the movement during welding does not really affect whether you are blowing right through the workpiece, but more about getting proper fusion and shield gas coverage for the weld puddle and bead.

Aluminum is hot and fast.

For some 1/16" sheet (0.063"), general GMAW parameters are ~90-100 amps at 15-20V and about 260-300 ipm WFS to start with using 0.030" wire. Travel speed is ~25-45 IPM.

Which is right on the edge of transitioning into spray mode transfer.

Compare that to welding some steel 16 gauge (0.063" or 1/16" thick) with 0.030 wire. Using C25 shielding gas and short-circuit transfer mode, starting parameters are around 17V (similar to the aluminum parameters) and 80 amps at around 175 IPM WFS (little lower amperage and much lower WFS compared to the aluminum parameters). But the travel speed is only 13 ipm, which is 1/2 to 1/3 of the travel speed on aluminum.

Aluminum is hot and fast. :evil:
 
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TheEquineFencer

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I'm hoping someone in here welds 0.063 with a 252 and a 30A gun on a regular basis and chimes in with what settings they use...

I do appreciate all the input...
 

CGT80

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I'm hoping someone in here welds 0.063 with a 252 and a 30A gun on a regular basis and chimes in with what settings they use...

I do appreciate all the input...

You can set the 252 to do stitch welding for thin material. My brother said he has made some nice aluminum welds this way. The welder is his, but he has the less expensive gun. I played with the spoolgun a bit but just blew through the material. He did say you have to move fast. I said to hell with it and just used my TIG welder to do what I was working on. He did say it took him a long time to get the hang of the spool gun and aluminum. I have not seen his welds or watched him weld aluminum with it. I am kind of in the same boat as you. I borrowed the welder for a big project (on steel) and wanted to play with the spool gun too.
 

BigMike782

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You can set the 252 to do stitch welding for thin material. My brother said he has made some nice aluminum welds this way. The welder is his, but he has the less expensive gun. QUOTE]

If he does not have a 15/30A which spool gun does he have?
I did not know there was another spool gun that would fit the 252 other than the 15/30A
 

CGT80

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Spoolmate 200

Look at Miller's web site and then look at the accessories tab on the 252 page. It shows the 15a and 30a also. The 200 is more of an economy model, but I don't know all of the differences between it and the 30a.
 
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BigMike782

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Spoolmate 200
Look at Miller's web site and then look at the accessories tab on the 252 page. It shows the 15a and 30a also. The 200 is more of an economy model, but I don't know all of the differences between it and the 30a.

Well, looky there.....page 16 in the 2015 catalog......woulda thunk it:lol:
 

Voodoo504

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23.3 machine. #4 on the spoolgun. .035 wire. 30 on Argon. 1/8" to 3/8" with preheating on the thicker side of the spectrum
 
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TheEquineFencer

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I gave it another shot after doing some more reading here on GJ and the net. I managed to get something stuck together that looks like it won't fall apart. The learning curve is steep. I may try to get a TIG and try that too, hell it can't me much worse than trying to weld with the Spool Gun.
 

mike13u

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If its bright and shiny it is 3003-H22 and it is weldable. Also common, but less so than the 3003, is the more industrial use 6061-T6 in a mill finish. Also weldable.
I have never seen a piece of aluminum diamond/tread plate that wasn't one of these two alloys but then again I haven't seen the metal selection at Lowes either.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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If its bright and shiny it is 3003-H22 and it is weldable. Also common, but less so than the 3003, is the more industrial use 6061-T6 in a mill finish. Also weldable.
I have never seen a piece of aluminum diamond/tread plate that wasn't one of these two alloys but then again I haven't seen the metal selection at Lowes either.

I got it from Dillon Supply a while back, I remember it was 3000 series, but I'm not sure what it is for sure. The .080 welded a LOT better than the cheap .062 stuff from Lowe's'. I just need to practice some more I'm sure. I try to push it instead of pulling. I found if I run a really fast bead along the seam, let it cool some, then go back over it I can almost make it look like I know what I'm doing. With the fast bead, It's not putting down enough metal to be strong.
 

rmack898

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Welding anything much thinner than 1/8" with a 30A can be tricky. 5356 wire is a little bit stiffer and might help a little. Unless your running the spool gun off a machine that has a pulse function, it's pretty hard to do. The door settings on the 252 are a good starting point and you may find that bumping the voltage up slightly and backing down the wire speed just a little might get you in the sweet spot.

But really anything under .100" in aluminum gets tigged in our shop.
 

MatBirch

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I weld piles of Al with a 252 daily.
12 ga. - 17.7/460 is my low staring point
1/8"- 18.5/485
3/16" - 20.0/500


We have dozens of machines, but I can generaly get close starting there. Any thinner than 12 ga. is not worth the struggle. Break out the tig.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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I weld piles of Al with a 252 daily.
12 ga. - 17.7/460 is my low staring point
1/8"- 18.5/485
3/16" - 20.0/500


We have dozens of machines, but I can generaly get close starting there. Any thinner than 12 ga. is not worth the struggle. Break out the tig.

Without going out and turning the machine on to look, I think it was set at 17.5/466.

I've never used a 252 before. I just opened it up out of the box and started welding. I think I may have gone back and changed some of the setting in it, but it seems like most are still set like it came from the factory.

I'm wondering if there's a way to change a setting on the timers and such so when I use the spool gun it'll pulse the gun to allow the Al time to cool a little as I weld?

I'm sure it'll take some practice, but just changing to the .080 Al made a big difference. This has been a real learning curve for me. Kinda like I noticed when I change the wire speed on the Spool Gun, it changes it on the display on the machine. I noticed that, I don't think the "book" tells you it does that. Just figuring that out made a lot of difference.

As someone mentioned earlier, and I may try this later today, I may run the wire speed WAY up and try welding fast, then back it off. I noticed I could weld a line really fast, but not be laying down much material to start with, then go back over it and it looked about 1/2 way decent.

I'm welding the metal at 90* joints from the inside putting a "fillet" in. I must be getting pretty good penetration. When I take the flapper disc and sand the joint from the outside down it looks like a solid joint. Most of the sluices I see are welded with what looks like TIG from the outside. I think the way I'm doing it will make a stronger joint as there's more metal on the inside of the joint.

Sitting here thinking about it, there's short arc and spray arc. I'm wondering if I run the wire speed and heat up enough to get it to spray arc if I can run fast along the joint and get enough weld put down where it stays and makes a solid joint and looks decent? At what voltage does it change to spray arc?

Almost 4 am and here I am thinking about welding, am I nuts or what?
 
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