Millermatic Multiprocess 200- Should I ?

[tarbellb]

I have the chance to get a Multiprocess 200 at discount, used.

What I do:

Lots of steel furniture fabrication, lighter wall tube typically. Right now I use my Miller Passport and its been great. But I would like the ability to start doing TIG welding on both steel and other metals (mostly Al, maybe SS).

So... should I get a Miller Multi 200 to start my TIG learning and expand my fab envelope, or should I wait and get a dedicated TIG machine that isnt a compromise later?


The price might be around $600 for a used machine w/ basic package and good shape. No TIG gun or accessories.

If I do decide to jump into TIG my starter budget would be $1000+/-...

 

[pi_guy]

can not tig Al
but great unit I have one use it to mig Al

 

[topcok88]

I would jump on it for that price seeing as you could always sell it in the future for most likely more than you paid. Most equipment I own/use is Miller and don't think you can go wrong. If nothing else you would then own a very nice portable MIG/TIG machine.

 

[tarbellb]

can not tig Al
but great unit I have one use it to mig Al

Very helpful, thanks.

I would need a machine that runs AC for TIG is that correct?

 

[Loscaldazar]

Very helpful, thanks.

I would need a machine that runs AC for TIG is that correct?

AC with High frequency start (can't just use a stick machine that has AC).

Or you can use DC with 100% Helium gas, but that's super expensive and rarely done

 

[ovrrdrive]

For that price a 200amp Miller Mig is well worth it if its in good shape. I wouldn't bother with the multi function part. If you want to tig pick up an AHP tig and learn with that. They are highly regarded.

 

[dr_clyde]

I use one of those every day at work. They are the cats *** for portable work on steels. They tig super nice, the wire feed works well, and they run 1/8" 7018 no sweat. They are light weight and very durable with the plastic housing.

That's a great deal at $1000. I would buy it.

There are a few downsides:

No high frequency. You still get a pedal, but its lift arc only. That's fine for me, but some guys like the HF, especially for little delicate things.

Not enough OCV to run 6010. Sputters and won't stay lit.

Factory leads are ****. They are way too short, not heavy enough gauge and the clamps and torch heads pretty much immediately need to be replaced with good ones.

Goofy small twist lock connectors. I had to make adapters to run the leads a already had.

DC only current. This can't really be considered a downside, as most multiprocess machines are like this. You give up AC in exchange for constant voltage. There are a few exceptions, like the old Miller Shopmaster, but by and large that's the way it is. Then they can sell you two welders.

I consider this the best small portable machine on the market right now. If you use it within its limits, then you'll be very happy.

 

[IUEC Medic]

If you can get that multimatic for 600 and its in good shape that's a great deal. I'm in NorCal too, and if you don't like it, I'll buy it from you if it's in good shape. Seriously, that's a killer price.

 

[B_Bimmer]

I already have that welder and if another was offered me for $600 my overalls would be smoking from pulling out the cash so fast.

 

[tarbellb]

THanks guys.

I already own the Millermatic Passport machine that does everything I want in MIG.

This machine would be for me to TIG Aluminum and other metals.... still worth getting or
save my money for a dedicated machine?

 

[dr_clyde]

THanks guys.

I already own the Millermatic Passport machine that does everything I want in MIG.

This machine would be for me to TIG Aluminum and other metals.... still worth getting or
save my money for a dedicated machine?

This machine cannot TIG aluminum, at least not conventionally. It is DC only.

 

[KM223]

I have that very machine and it's fantastic! I use it for TIG mostly but have used the MIG as well. I use a Miller wireless foot pedal which helps cut down on cables and clutter. $600 for even a used machine just seems to good to be true.

 

[tarbellb]

Well they (several) went for close $1000 bucks in auction. I was hoping people might be sleeping on them but almost everything in this auction went for stupid money. These were some of the "better" deals...

I ended up not bidding, my Passport has treated me well and if I am going to drop that kind of cash im leaning towards a AC/DC machine.

Thanks for all the input!

 

[KM223]

Well they (several) went for close $1000 bucks in auction. I was hoping people might be sleeping on them but almost everything in this auction went for stupid money. These were some of the "better" deals...

I ended up not bidding, my Passport has treated me well and if I am going to drop that kind of cash im leaning towards a AC/DC machine.

Thanks for all the input!

I think that's a better idea for sure. While the multimatic 200 is a fantastic machine it's not perfect. Almost perfect but not. Get yourself a newer Dynasty 200 DX and go to town! Still small and portable with HF start (no lift arc BS), does Al and produces fantastic results.

.02$

 

[kkroger]

AC with High frequency start (can't just use a stick machine that has AC).

Or you can use DC with 100% Helium gas, but that's super expensive and rarely done

You CAN weld aluminum with DC TIG, most definitely, you have to clean it up good, use Helium, weld even at a lower current and DCEP, but it will do it...
Heli-Arc for a reason. That said Helium will sure make a smaller machine think it is a big dog, you can even scratch start it.

 

[dr_clyde]

I think that's a better idea for sure. While the multimatic 200 is a fantastic machine it's not perfect. Almost perfect but not. Get yourself a newer Dynasty 200 DX and go to town! Still small and portable with HF start (no lift arc BS), does Al and produces fantastic results.

.02$

While I agree with the sentiment of your statement, I must take issue with the "lift arc BS" thing. Lift arc is an absolutely fantastic feature. It is an incredibly useful thing for welding in any situation where you are not seated at a bench, or can't use a remote like a pedal. Which, for me, is most of the time. It is light years ahead of the old "scratch start".

Don't get me wrong, HF start is a must for a lot of delicate work, or most bench welding, especially with aluminum. But to call lift arc "BS" means to me you haven't had a lot of experience with it. I wouldn't be without it on any machine I buy in the future.

Bottom line, I'd hate for someone who hasn't used it to read this and think its a bad thing. It is a nice feature. Arguably more useful to me than most other features like frequency, pulse, 2T, 4T and stuff like that.

Not a personal attack, hope you don't take it that way.

 

[tarbellb]

I dont want to start a debate on welding Al w/ DC power is possible, because right now I probably cant TIG anything very well with even the best setup.

I have almost zero experience TIG welding and think getting a more dedicated machine makes sense.

The real debate will be if I go HTP, (used)Miller, AHP, or Eastwood?

My main concern is welding up to 1/4" in both Aluminum, SS, Carbon Steel. This machine wont see daily use, likely 5-10hrs a month at most.

Budget would be $1000 for machine and accessories. Suggestions based on my criteria please.

_ Do I need water cooled?
_ What features are overkill for someone doing limited materials?
_ What features should I definitely look for?
_ If I go Miller, what older used machines are in this price range (cant be huge, limited floor space).

 

[KM223]

While I agree with the sentiment of your statement, I must take issue with the "lift arc BS" thing. Lift arc is an absolutely fantastic feature. It is an incredibly useful thing for welding in any situation where you are not seated at a bench, or can't use a remote like a pedal. Which, for me, is most of the time. It is light years ahead of the old "scratch start".

Don't get me wrong, HF start is a must for a lot of delicate work, or most bench welding, especially with aluminum. But to call lift arc "BS" means to me you haven't had a lot of experience with it. I wouldn't be without it on any machine I buy in the future.

Bottom line, I'd hate for someone who hasn't used it to read this and think its a bad thing. It is a nice feature. Arguably more useful to me than most other features like frequency, pulse, 2T, 4T and stuff like that.

Not a personal attack, hope you don't take it that way.

No personal attack taken

I've been doing lift arc for longer then I've had hot dinners or so it seems like. While I completely agree with you it's not terrible I believe the OP said it would be his first time learning TIG welding. I think it's far easier to learn TIG with HF than it is with lift arc.

For you and I and all the people that can do lift arc it's great. For the person that has never tried TIG welding it can be a frustrating task. I use the term "BS" simply because I've seen first timers throw TIG torches across the shop in absolute frustration.

 

[dr_clyde]

I dont want to start a debate on welding Al w/ DC power is possible, because right now I probably cant TIG anything very well with even the best setup.

I have almost zero experience TIG welding and think getting a more dedicated machine makes sense.

The real debate will be if I go HTP, (used)Miller, AHP, or Eastwood?

My main concern is welding up to 1/4" in both Aluminum, SS, Carbon Steel. This machine wont see daily use, likely 5-10hrs a month at most.

Budget would be $1000 for machine and accessories. Suggestions based on my criteria please.

_ Do I need water cooled?
_ What features are overkill for someone doing limited materials?
_ What features should I definitely look for?
_ If I go Miller, what older used machines are in this price range (cant be huge, limited floor space).

For a home shop, there really isn't the need to go more than 200 amps. If I was you, I'd look spending the extra $500 for a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200. They are about $1500 out the door and the absolute best value in new TIG machines at the moment. They are simple, easy to use and come with all the accessories except a cylinder and a cart.

If you're patient, you may be able to luck into a pro grade machine like a Miller Dynasty 200, which would be a better machine, but not needed to learn how to TIG weld.

You don't need a water cooler. Not yet.

The only features I like on AC are balance adjustment and occasionally frequency. Balance is the only one I monkey with, really.

Don't concern yourself with all the stuff like pulsing, 2T, 4T, upslope, downslope, stuff like that. No need to confuse yourself.

If I was looking for a used machine and space was a huge deal, a Dynasty would top my short list. I've used a Miller Diversion, they're ok for the money. If space wasn't a concern, I would look no farther than a Syncrowave 250. Done and dusted.

 

[dr_clyde]

No personal attack taken

I've been doing lift arc for longer then I've had hot dinners or so it seems like. While I completely agree with you it's not terrible I believe the OP said it would be his first time learning TIG welding. I think it's far easier to learn TIG with HF than it is with lift arc.

For you and I and all the people that can do lift arc it's great. For the person that has never tried TIG welding it can be a frustrating task. I use the term "BS" simply because I've seen first timers throw TIG torches across the shop in absolute frustration.

10-4, I get where you're coming from with the new user thing.

 

[KM223]

10-4, I get where you're coming from with the new user thing.

Great minds my friend. Great minds!

 

[tarbellb]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. I value your opinion dr_clyde, I follow your post and see the type of work you do.

I also know you dont see the value in a offshore machine, and I respect that.
-----
Wondering if anybody else out here has personal experience with Miller/Lincoln machines vs the newest wave of offshore machines?

Pros and Cons for someone starting out but needs a reliable semi pro machine.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I havent used any of the recent machines but I dont care for mig/tig machines. The ideal arc characteristics are pretty much opposites and the machines cost so much you can mostly buy two separate machines for the same coin.

Low amp starts with helium are harder to get started. Helium /argon mixes are pricey and only in rental cylinders. You can use oxyacet aluminum flux and dc en to weld aluminum. Just rub spit on the joint and shake some flux on it. You can tig with aluminum stick electrodes.

Best advice: buy any Syncrowave made in the last quarter century. However, I have seen Dialarc HF go for $500. It has its flaws but is good to learn on. Worst thing about the little companies and overseas machines is simple. Are they going to offer parts or even be in business when you need them? Do they actually mfg their equipment?

I like Miller. I have been in the Houston room, the Tucson room, and whatever they call the freezer room. Ive demo ed machines under developement and sold machines in limited roll out. Back in the day, no one tested machines like Miller.

 

[KM223]

I havent used any of the recent machines but I dont care for mig/tig machines. The ideal arc characteristics are pretty much opposites and the machines cost so much you can mostly buy two separate machines for the same coin.

Low amp starts with helium are harder to get started. Helium /argon mixes are pricey and only in rental cylinders. You can use oxyacet aluminum flux and dc en to weld aluminum. Just rub spit on the joint and shake some flux on it. You can tig with aluminum stick electrodes.

Best advice: buy any Syncrowave made in the last quarter century. However, I have seen Dialarc HF go for $500. It has its flaws but is good to learn on. Worst thing about the little companies and overseas machines is simple. Are they going to offer parts or even be in business when you need them? Do they actually mfg their equipment?

I like Miller. I have been in the Houston room, the Tucson room, and whatever they call the freezer room. Ive demo ed machines under developement and sold machines in limited roll out. Back in the day, no one tested machines like Miller.

Try a Miller Mulitmatic 200. It will change your mind trust me.

 

[AngryBeaver]

I have the chance to get a Multiprocess 200 at discount, used.

What I do:

Lots of steel furniture fabrication, lighter wall tube typically. Right now I use my Miller Passport and its been great. But I would like the ability to start doing TIG welding on both steel and other metals (mostly Al, maybe SS).

So... should I get a Miller Multi 200 to start my TIG learning and expand my fab envelope, or should I wait and get a dedicated TIG machine that isnt a compromise later?


The price might be around $600 for a used machine w/ basic package and good shape. No TIG gun or accessories.

If I do decide to jump into TIG my starter budget would be $1000+/-...

NO... separate tig machine....

I was in a similar boat about 10 months ago. I wanted a tig to weld alum, because the first DC tig machine I bought wouldn't do it. (bought a cheap no name on a whim). helium and DCEP can be done, but it is not practicle or affordable to a hobbiest.

I weld a lot of aluminum intakes and aluminum blowers that are cast. a 200 amp machine will weld quite a bit of stuff that is out there and is probably the most common sized unit sold. I have always been a red and blue fan. welded production sprayarc and dual shield flux core with a miller 451 and a 325 for years.

I've owned a Lincoln 225 AC/DC tombstone stick welder since the 90's and have welded aluminum with it. I don't recommend it. its not clean, its very time consuming, appearance is hideous at best, and its very expensive. (25-30 bucks a pound). the flux is a complete nightmare for multiple passes.

anyways, I have a Lincoln 185 mig and have basically abused it without issues so I went right to the local welding shop and started poking around. the squarewave 200 "seems" like a decent welder for 1449 on sale. until you start researching some of its features. then the crappy pedal it comes with, then the regulator that needs changed to a flow meter. a new person leaning tig welding doesn't need a bunch of negatives right off the bat.. then.... you find out the duty cycle is only 25% and it isn't made in the USA.

so you go over to the miller store and check theirs out. the closest thing you get is the diversion 185 for more money than the Lincoln 200 squarewave. then you find out it also isn't made in the usa and the duty cycle on this one ***** also. duty cycle is important when you're welding 1/4" and bigger aluminum without preheating...so you look at the Dynasty 200... the prices goes way up.....

so you step back and research some more. you try out a couple offshore units. you realize that red and blue fans hate green and yellow welders. "made in china junk" no parts availability" they ****, blah blah blah.

so that aside... I talked to some local aluminum welding shops to see what they ran. MAC trailers in ohio.... EAST manufacturing in ohio. both make high end ALUMINUM semi trailers. you know what brand they use? you know what brand gives them the least amount of issues? the Green ones.

So I take a step back and do some more research. I'm a red blooded, god fearing, gun toting American. "I'm not buying a Chinese welder"

Unless you are spending 8K on a welder, its not American made. you are paying for a name, and getting a lesser quality of a machine than you can elsewhere. sure, some are assembled here out of chinesium parts

Two car fab shops I know run everlast 200's daily. have for 3-4 years. lots of SS and heavy aluminum welding. its cheaper than the red and blue... it comes with better accessories, like upgraded pedal, GOOD flowmeter, better superflex torch and torch hose covers, better warranty, and twice the duty cycle.

The eastwood got knocked off the list right away. a lot of circuit board issues, low duty cycle, some pretty poor reviews when they were used for more than a weld here and a weld there.

I looked hard at the AHP200 and the everlast 200DV. I decided on the everlast due to a lot of the features. the starting amps goes way lower on the everlast. not so much for aluminum, but welding thin SS, it helps, a lot. it comes with better accessories, when you figure in the add ons to the AHP, the everlast is cheaper and its a commercially built unit. its meant for commercial use, not a weekend warrior.

since I was welding aluminum primarily with this... I decided to step up to the 255DX. Same controls, same basic machine but more amperage and the ability to add a water cooler down the line. Only downfall was 208 only (vs 208/110 on the 200DV for portability) I couldn't be happier. Blue fans hate them, red fans hate them. I like green anyways.

Couple features I think is needed on these newer inverter machines when welding aluminum is balance and freq. Not all units have these features, and when dealing with different types of aluminum, especially dirty cast. 2t/4t and upslope downslope most people wont mess with, but they are handy when you start tinkering with pulse, which is another beauty once you figure it out. sorry for the long rant, but picking one out is hard, learning to weld without any kind of guidance or instruction is harder. I'm so glad now I didn't settle for an older transformer machine.

Take a class or get some starter lessons from someone that welds will put you light years ahead of the learning curve. watching videos helps, but is nothing like having someone there to tell you what you are doing wrong . the ahp or 200dv everlast would make a great machine for you. obviously I prefer the green. not sure on current prices but they should be 12-1300 range. call them directly for a better price and get upgrades thrown in.

 

[flushcut]

I use one of those every day at work. They are the cats *** for portable work on steels. They tig super nice, the wire feed works well, and they run 1/8" 7018 no sweat. They are light weight and very durable with the plastic housing.

That's a great deal at $1000. I would buy it.

There are a few downsides:

No high frequency. You still get a pedal, but its lift arc only. That's fine for me, but some guys like the HF, especially for little delicate things.

Not enough OCV to run 6010. Sputters and won't stay lit.

Factory leads are ****. They are way too short, not heavy enough gauge and the clamps and torch heads pretty much immediately need to be replaced with good ones.

Goofy small twist lock connectors. I had to make adapters to run the leads a already had.

DC only current. This can't really be considered a downside, as most multiprocess machines are like this. You give up AC in exchange for constant voltage. There are a few exceptions, like the old Miller Shopmaster, but by and large that's the way it is. Then they can sell you two welders.

I consider this the best small portable machine on the market right now. If you use it within its limits, then you'll be very happy.

Interesting I run 6010 just fine with my Mutimatic 200.

 

[Lelandwelds]

You can mig if you push .045 or thicker ER5356 or harder alloy. Use short guns with regular liners and lay cable flat. Or, you could hang feeder overhead and point gun down like a Swingarc. The starts are rocky but settle down.

I prefer using a superior material;

STEEL.

 

[G-ManBart]

For a home shop, there really isn't the need to go more than 200 amps. If I was you, I'd look spending the extra $500 for a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200. They are about $1500 out the door and the absolute best value in new TIG machines at the moment. They are simple, easy to use and come with all the accessories except a cylinder and a cart.

That's debatable. I looked at the Square Wave TIG 200, and while it's a nice machine, doesn't have many features. I got a great deal on an Everlast PowerTIG 210 EXT and it's pretty much feature for feature with a Miller Dynasty 210 for well under $2K. I think retail is around $1700 now but you can usually get a bit better price than that. I upgraded the torches and lines and still stayed under $1700....way more welder than a Square Wave TIG 200.

I'm not anti red or blue...have a Hobart, a Miller and I'm looking at another Miller right now. In the under $2K TIG range all of the welders are running Chinese boards, so I don't really see any reason to pay more for a red or blue one that has less features.

 

[dr_clyde]

That's debatable. I looked at the Square Wave TIG 200, and while it's a nice machine, doesn't have many features. I got a great deal on an Everlast PowerTIG 210 EXT and it's pretty much feature for feature with a Miller Dynasty 210 for well under $2K. I think retail is around $1700 now but you can usually get a bit better price than that. I upgraded the torches and lines and still stayed under $1700....way more welder than a Square Wave TIG 200.

I'm not anti red or blue...have a Hobart, a Miller and I'm looking at another Miller right now. In the under $2K TIG range all of the welders are running Chinese boards, so I don't really see any reason to pay more for a red or blue one that has less features.

It's not about color or COO in my case. I want what my LWS can sell me and I can get support for. My LWS sells Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, and Fronius.

Besides, what beginner welder needs a fully kitted out inverter? Save a few hundred bucks, learn on the Lincoln, and if you find out you need more welder, sell it and get another one. Or just get another one.

 

[G-ManBart]

It's not about color or COO in my case. I want what my LWS can sell me and I can get support for. My LWS sells Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, and Fronius.

Besides, what beginner welder needs a fully kitted out inverter? Save a few hundred bucks, learn on the Lincoln, and if you find out you need more welder, sell it and get another one. Or just get another one.

If I was welding for a living I'd be much more concerned with having a LWS that could get me parts, I'm sure. Since it's a hobby for me, I'm okay if I have to wait a couple of days to get a part if something goes sideways.

I prefer the buy once, cry once theory rather than having to upgrade, and lose money in the process, down the road. That often winds up costing more than buying the next step up in the first place. Obviously, it can be hard to predict what someone will want down the road, but when I dug into the details on the Square Wave TIG 200 I found a lot of shortcomings compared to the Everlast I bought.

I'm still a new TIG welder, but even with as little experience as I have there are things I would really miss if I had to go to something like the Lincoln. Off the top of my head I think I'd miss adjustable pre and post-flow the most. I've been doing some oddball position work, and being a newbie, I'm slower getting into position and getting started than someone with years of experience. I can just crank up the pre-flow and not worry. I'm also welding large cast iron and ductile iron parts where the post-flow adjustability is nice to have since the puddle takes longer to solidify.

Some features are going to be lost on a new welder, but some actually help the newbie more that the experienced welder who has multiple ways to do the same task we haven't learned yet. I only have so much time available so I'll take all the help I can get up front

 

[WittHay]

Good comments from Angry Beaver and G-Man Bart. But I am still unsure about buying a welder with no local support.

To me buying a Everlast is the same as buying the new Harbor Freight Vulcan's, except HF has local stores. They don't ship Alpha Tig's to Canada. If I want a Everlast, I charge x amount on my credit card, sight unseen. They ship the welder across the country. Don't know what happens if I have a problem

My local tool store has Miller, Lincoln and ESAB in stock. There are Lincoln, Miller and ESAB service centers in my area

 

[G-ManBart]

Good comments from Angry Beaver and G-Man Bart. But I am still unsure about buying a welder with no local support.

To me buying a Everlast is the same as buying the new Harbor Freight Vulcan's, except HF has local stores. They don't ship Alpha Tig's to Canada. If I want a Everlast, I charge x amount on my credit card, sight unseen. They ship the welder across the country. Don't know what happens if I have a problem

My local tool store has Miller, Lincoln and ESAB in stock. There are Lincoln, Miller and ESAB service centers in my area

I actually wound up buying the PowerTIG because I had previously bought an Everlast stick welder that wound up having an electrical gremlin. I already had a stick welder but wanted something portable, so I bought a PowerARC 200ST and after a couple of weeks the display started wandering and showing crazy numbers.

I called and spoke to their customer support guy who sent me a new board, which didn't fix the problem (they offered to pay to ship it back to me, but I do enough electrical work I felt I could handle it, and it was easy). At that point they had Oleg, the owner of the company, call me. We talked through what was going on, I checked a few things with my multimeter for him, and he sent me a couple of other parts which didn't fix the issue (display and a potentiometer). It still worked fine, but you couldn't tell exactly what the amperage was.

When the second set of parts didn't fix it, Oleg offered to refund my money 100%, send me a replacement unit, or give me full purchase price credit towards any other machine I wanted, and they would give me an additional discount. I opted to get the PowerTIG 210EXT and it's been absolutely perfect.

I was a little worried at first, but when the owner of the company called me and gave me his cell phone number, I felt a lot better about it. We actually talked several times and he was very proactive about keeping in touch with me. I know any company can make a lemon, but how they deal with it is what really matters to me.

Now, to show what a geek I am, I spent hours reading reviews on Welding Web and a few other forums when the Square Wave TIG 200 came out, and some of the early models had problems that took Lincoln months to sort out. Similarly, some of those guys took their units to the LWS and the time to get service was on the order of a couple of weeks. I'm not sure how that's better than getting parts shipped to you. I guess if you're a big shop they work with a lot they might give you a loaner, but I'm not so sure if you're just a weekend warrior like me.

 

[AngryBeaver]

Short of consumables, that any welding shop carries and they are universal for tigs based on the torch you have, they aren't stocking replacement "hard" parts. They won't have boards, invertors, capacitors, or displays. If you need a board in a Miller or Lincoln you have two options. Send it to them, wait 2-3 weeks as they send it back, or the local welding shop has a third party electrical contractor for "warranty" repairs. Food for thought. It's not my money, I don't care what you buy, but don't be mislead and think the local welding shop is gonna run its tummy when it's sick. ��

Read or watch some of MrTigs reviews and demos of differnt machines. He's a certified welder and now a weld instructor and see what his thoughts are. Check out weld.coms reviews of the green machines. And lastly check out chucky2009 on his thoughts and reviews of green welders for the last 5-6 years. All of them can be found on YouTube.

For the money, you cannot get a better machine than the everlast units in the 160-255 range. I'm seriously considering selling my 185 mig and getting a big green mig.

 

[dr_clyde]

I'll be honest, I use a dynasty 200 DX as my daily driver, and I seldom use the extra features. Pre and post flow? Set it and forget it. Haven't touched it in years. I've used the 2t once. The frequency control gets adjusted rarely. I never use the pulser.

I use tha AC balance somewhat, and I use the lift arc all the time.

Most welding simply isn't that complicated. I tig weld daily and the only knob I touch most days is the amp dial.

All I'm saying is the SW tig 200 is a LOT of welder for $1500 brand new. I own one. They're nice machines.If you're gonna go bigger, go for real and get some pro grade gear. That's my opinion. At the end of the day, free advice is worth what you paid for it.

 

[tarbellb]

Well hot damn, I went out of town for the weekend and came back to some of the best, legit, non-combative, insightful welder advice I have ever seen. THANK YOU guys, seriously.

dr_clyde has lots of good info for a everyday, pro level welder, much appreciated. AngerBeaver + GmanBart absolutely insightful info that is exactly what I was looking for on those "other" brands.

Adding TIG to my arsenal right now is not necessary its just something I want to do. Honestly I am leaning towards going green. Why, the entry price is obviously attractive, power and features, and seems to have a lot legit feedback on performance (and warranty).

I will actively be looking for a used Miller that fits the bill, but once I am ready to pull the trigger I will be buying something new or used that month.

Thanks again everybody.