Milling Machine Refurb - Millrite MVN

[mike13u]

Here is a 40 year old Milling machine that I bought about a year ago for my garage/shop. It was a back-up mill at an aircraft parts manufacturer. I Finally got around to a complete teardown, replace or repair, clean, and repaint. It was a ton of work. Sorry I didnt take some before shots. Didnt really think about the post when I started. But, I do have some shots of the larger parts stripped down to the cast and filler. Although this isnt a Bridgeport, its a great American made milll that is perfect for a small shop. It will do just about eveything a Bridgeport can do until you get to the much larger peices of work. They are about 3/4 the size of a BP and, like I said, perfect for the hobby guy or a garage. This is a three-phase machine that I hooked up to a rotary phase converter.
Hope you enjoy the pics.
-Mike

 

[mike13u]

 

[mike13u]

 

[A_Pmech]

Looks like you gave it "the works"!

Was it mechanically and geometrically in good shape when you started? I can't see one of those machines being used too heavily?

Nice Raptor BTW.

Now about that vise...

 

[mike13u]

Thanks for the compliments APmech. Its not quite one of your rebuilds, those are top-knotch. I barely know what Im doing compared to you. . But, i think I did enough that it will out-last me.
Yes, it was in good shape. The table has very little in the way of marks and the travel was tight on all axis's (very little play for its age and the fact that it was used in a manufacturing facility). I replaced all bearings when I rebuilt and went through everything. The machine was neglected at that plant and didnt seem beat up at all. The only chips I found in the machine where aluminum (lots). But it was sitting next to a big old BP in the plant and there was only one machinist in the shop. I think he just always went to the BP. The thing that strikes me is they decided to paint it to sell it and used some horrible quality white paint. The person in charge of selling it probably did the painting because everything including zerk fittings and the like were covered white. I guess they thought it would cover something up and make it easier to sell, but I never found anything
There were some small things I needed to make or replace, but all-in-all it was usable the way it was and probably would have went for a long, long time. But, it wasnt mine like that. So, I needed to make it mine.
The only problem at all that still exists after having gone through the mill is a knocking noise with every full turn downward of the knee. Pisses me off because I went through and replaced everything that looked worn and didnt see anything there. Too tired at this point to disassemble. One day i'll go back and remove the knee and give it a look again.
The vice is a Brideport that I picked up at auction.
Question for you APmech since you asked: Is it typical that you paint that flat top section of the milling vice? I want to paint the vice like the machine now, but I was told that you indicate the vice (and thats what I did) on that flat section. If I paint, I would imagine I need to leave that bare. Am I correct?

 

[larry_g]

The only problem at all that still exists after having gone through the mill is a knocking noise with every full turn downward of the knee. Pisses me off because I went through and replaced everything that looked worn and didnt see anything there. Too tired at this point to disassemble. One day i'll go back and remove the knee and give it a look again.
?

Very good looking machine there. I wish I had the patience to clean and paint like that. I have a small Index mill that 'knock' or clunk on the way down if I forget to release the knee lock. Something to look at make sure the gibs are not to tight or the lock snug.

As far as paint on the vise I would only paint the rough casting parts leaving the machined parts bare.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[A_Pmech]

It looks good, Mike. It should serve you well!

Regarding the knock, it sounds like you have some stick-slip going on. The gibs are either too loose causing the knee to rock and seize up, or they're too tight and dragging on the column ways or you may have the knee clamp set as Larry suggested.

Pump up the table zerks with way lube and slather the ways and see if it goes away. I'm not sure how familiar you are with knee mills so I'll add that you should always make your final knee adjustments in the "up" direction to eliminate the backlash of the knee screw and thrust bearing.

Crappy "porch paint" paint jobs seem to be the universal way of "prettying up" a machine for sale. Just slather the whole thing in the stuff! I have no idea why though!

As Larry said, just paint the rough cast parts. Everything else should be left bare, including the top of the movable jaw. When you tram your machine, tram to the table top, not the vise jaw top. The vise top may or may not be parallel to the plane of the table ways. The machine table top is, by design and execution, in-plane with the table ways.

Once the head is trammed, align the fixed vise jaw parallel to the x-axis with an indicator and you should be set! And yes, you'll get MUCH faster at tramming with practice.

 

[mike13u]

Much appreciated. My first mill. No experience at all except some use of friends Bridgeport on occassion. Looking forward to a lifetime of learning on this mill.
Thanks Larry. i'll paint the cast parts only. Knee locks are all open.
AP Mech, the lightbulb went off when you said that. I set the gap on those when re-assembling everything and must have overtightened. I will check in the morning but that makes perfect sense.
Its great to have the web and this forum as a resource.
Thanks again -Mike

 

[A_Pmech]

Hi Mike,

That might be the culprit.

You'll get the hang of running it quickly enough. There's a lot of unwritten "Bridgeport practice" which you would normally be taught in a shop by the older hands. However, you can learn most of it from reading the posts on Practical Machinist.

Moltrecht's "Machine Shop Practice" is a good set of books to start with.

A couple pieces of Bridgeport practice to get you started:

Always mill with the quill as far up as practical with the quill lock set.

If you use the quill to locate the Z datum with a carbide endmill, do so with the spindle turning to prevent chipping the endmill. Not so much a concern with HSS.

NEVER let go of the drawbar wrench lest you leave it up there and then hit the start button.

Conventional milling only unless you're taking a finish pass.

Clockwise always moves the table away from you.

 

[mike13u]

AP Mech - Great stuff. Notes captured in the 'gray matter.' Hope it sticks.
I have one other question and then Ill leave you alone. I have some tooling from my lathe but my milling items are limited at this point. If I hit a good auction, I can get a lot of stuff reasonably, but they dont come around alot because I dont live in a manufacturing area (tourism is our industy). So, being that I may need to purchase items one by one, what would you say would be top ten first purchases? I have a parallel set, end mills, R8 collet set, a couple of edge finders, and an R8 albrecht keyless chuck.

 

[A_Pmech]

A nice .0005" dial test indicator such as Compac or Interapid with a dovetail swivel holder for tramming and vise setting is nice. (I'll try to post pics tomorrow).

A small piece of round stock with a flat milled down the length for squaring up the second flat surface of a block in the vise. (See MIT's Tech TV basic milling videos for usage)

Precision hard square set for setting up work in the vise or on the table. (See MIT's Tech TV again)

Noga magnetic base for your test indicator.

1-2-3 blocks

A clamping kit with the correct T-nuts to fit your T-slots. Gibraltar makes fairly good kits for around $40 or less.

"Rout-a-burr" or similar deburring tool. Noga "Shaviv" is a popular model.

Cigarette paper comes in handy for setting tools to the work. Get close to the work and place a piece of cigarette paper between the endmill and the work, held lightly between your fingers. Advance slowly and carefully until the paper is just pulled from your fingers due to the wedging action of the endmill against the workpiece. The cutting arc of the endmill is now the thickness of the paper from contacting the work.

That should cover the basics...

 

[larry_g]

One thing that will get you fired in some shops is blowing the chips off the machine with a blowgun. Get in the habit of sweeping and vacuuming and you will find the shop stays cleaner. Get an older copy of machinerys handbook. Not having a quick quill handle you will not be able to power tap, same problem I have with the Index. I would also get rid of the swival base on the vise. It ***** up height and will not be used much. Learn to work with your backlash. Your dials will serve you once you learn that you always approch the mark from the same direction.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[A_Pmech]

Get an older copy of machinerys handbook.

Good point on Machinery's Handbook! I totally forgot to mention it!

Learn to work with your backlash. Your dials will serve you once you learn that you always approch the mark from the same direction.

And a grease pencil arrow just above the dial will remind you of which direction that is after you come back from a long lunch.

 

[mike13u]

Great stuff gentlemen. Many thanks.

 

[bobadame]

You might want to replace the vice with a Kurt or a Parlec. Those old Bridgeport vices will flex a bit when you clamp something tight. This makes it rock up out of square. The Kurt and Parlec have a clamping system that actually pulls down as it tightens. The BP vice has an odd shaped jaw that is difficult to attach a jaw stop to. In any case, make some keys to locate your vice parallel to the table.

 

[gorilla]

When you can afford it a DRO would be a good addition to your mill. It makes dealing with backlash much easier and you don't have to count turns. Your mill is beautiful !! One thought on your stickage problem, are you using way oil or just regular oil?

 

[justanengineer]

Very nice resto...I "restored" a pair of those for the prototype shop I worked at last summer. Those two came out of a lens grinding shop that bought them new, used them a few hours (just long enough to cover them in grinding slurry), then sold the pair along with a pair of Troyke 9" rotabs and all of the lens grinding stones for $600. My boss tore them apart to move them, then let them sit for ~5 years until I found them in a closet in pieces. I didnt have to do any fancy painting on those though, just scrubbed them good, reassembled, and buffed the original green paint out.

You definitely have one of the nicer small mills there, and one of the last Powermatic/Houdaille/Millrite/Burke ever made. With regard to the knocking noise in the knee, one of mine did that. Try lowering the knee while watching the bronze insert in the knee support (the screw jack it rests on). The bronze nut should NOT spin and should have a set screw that locks it tight. On one of the ones I restored, it would spin slightly and pop up and down inside the iron outer casting. If that doesnt do it, try slathering the **** out of it and the ways with way oil as others suggested. If you havent done so already, the backlash in the X and Y can both be easily taken out of those machines for a certain portion of the travel (maybe all of it), dependant upon the wear in the leadscrews.

Have fun, enjoy, and if you run into trouble dont hesitate to ask...

 

[NASTYZEN]

Nice. For sure that baby's gonna outlast you now.Takes decades to wear them out. Many guys have even CNCed them over on cnc.com
Hope you enjoy it for years to come.

 

[930dreamer]

I sure enjoy posts about machine refurbs, any chance of a video milling something.

 

[jvitez]

I'm always impressed by talented gents like you folks who can do so much with machines and metal. I've a pretty reasonable woodworker but other than grade 8 metal in shop class this is all foreign to me, but very, very cool. Great job!

 

[Ufordinner]

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for taking the time to take some photos and post your progress. I came across a Millrite MVN sitting in the back of someones homeshop just recently in central florida using craigs list. I got the Millrite and a Brown and Sharpe #2 automatic grinder for $1100 total. I am pretty stoked and just learning this stuff; got a small lathe earlier this year. Anyways... I am already starting to pull my mill apart and curious if you would mind sharing what primer and paint you used? It appears to be a brush on primer and paint or did you use rattle cans? Any name brands or information would help... especially if it is holding up well and you have no complaints. Maybe even the color name... I really like that blue color!! Nice job again man... I hope mine looks that great when I am done!

Jase

 

[mike13u]

Jase - No problem man. I used Magnet Paints. Great stuff!!! They make high quality paint for farm equipment and industrial machines. I ordered from them. They have great sevice. Here you go: http://www.magnetpaints.com/
Also, here is what you need: Their 500 series industrial primer, 1 gallon of their 4800 gloss enamle paint, and a pint of their UEH100 urethane enamel harder. Also, I used a little standard paint thinner to minimize any brush strokes. Get one of those mixers that goes in your drill with the plastic mixing blades and some good quality paint brushes from ACE.
If you have ability to spray it, that would be best. I didnt have that option though and I think it came out great.
Are you located in Florida? If so, PM me your area.
You will enjoy that machine. Im having a great time with mine. Learned alot when i broke it down and refurbed also so if you have questions let me know.
Good luck,
Mike

 

[Ufordinner]

Man.. That's Good information!! Thanks again... I meant to tell you I did a lot of research before buying this machine and your post about refurbing it really made me more comfortable about doing the same.. Ya I am in central Florida, between Tampa and Orlando. I'll research those paints and get some ordered... Appreciate it!

 

[underpsi68]

Jase - No problem man. I used Magnet Paints. Great stuff!!! They make high quality paint for farm equipment and industrial machines. I ordered from them. They have great sevice. Here you go: http://www.magnetpaints.com/
Also, here is what you need: Their 500 series industrial primer, 1 gallon of their 4800 gloss enamle paint, and a pint of their UEH100 urethane enamel harder. Also, I used a little standard paint thinner to minimize any brush strokes. Get one of those mixers that goes in your drill with the plastic mixing blades and some good quality paint brushes from ACE.
If you have ability to spray it, that would be best. I didnt have that option though and I think it came out great.
Are you located in Florida? If so, PM me your area.
You will enjoy that machine. Im having a great time with mine. Learned alot when i broke it down and refurbed also so if you have questions let me know.
Good luck,
Mike

Is the paint battle ship gray (4893)?

The mill looks GREAT!!! I just picked up the same mill and want to repaint it.

Thanks

 

[jeff g]

Hi
Great job, first-class, love it,
jeff

 

[Chunthechip]

Hello Gents,
New one on the block. Been wanting a homeshop mill for 2 decades not. I appreciate your posts and all the valuable information they contain. I am currently looking at a '78 MVN with some problems (as far as I can tell) for sale. Motor not running, ect. Will make another trip to Houston sometime next week to pickup if feeling adventurous. Hope I'm doing this right. Always open to suggestion.

 

[longlivepunk]

You or others might like this project, it has you doing some basic milling, to produce something that's very useable in the end.

http://tomstechniques.com/tutorials/stack-blocks/

 

[mikegt4]

Hello Gents,
New one on the block. Been wanting a homeshop mill for 2 decades not. I appreciate your posts and all the valuable information they contain. I am currently looking at a '78 MVN with some problems (as far as I can tell) for sale. Motor not running, ect. Will make another trip to Houston sometime next week to pickup if feeling adventurous. Hope I'm doing this right. Always open to suggestion.

I have a Millrite, it's agreat home shop machine. A lot of info on the Yahoo Millrite (Burke Mill) forum.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/BurkeMills/info

 

[Guster]

Another good option for painting these machines is a small paint roller with the correct roller for the type of paint. Much better with a roller than what I could achieve with a brush. Used less paint and it went on faster with less likelyhood for runs or drips.

 

[mike13u]

Hello Gents,
New one on the block. Been wanting a homeshop mill for 2 decades not. I appreciate your posts and all the valuable information they contain. I am currently looking at a '78 MVN with some problems (as far as I can tell) for sale. Motor not running, ect. Will make another trip to Houston sometime next week to pickup if feeling adventurous. Hope I'm doing this right. Always open to suggestion.

Chunthechip - Last I checked, DC Morrison out of KY had bought all the NOS parts for the Millrite Mills and had them available for sale. They even had some brand new Leeson motors with the proper shafts available.