Milling machine...thoughts?

[1982fxr]

Not immediately in the market for one but saw this today. Don't know much at all about Mills. This one looks different than what I usually see around here.

First generation Chinese?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/tls/d/phoenix-bench-top-milling-machine/6793651654.html

 

[Lassen Forge]

If the bearings aren't all wallered out and it runs, why not? I'm assuming it may not have a power X/Y feed, but you never know.

It's not like you'd have to drive far to check it out... just make sure you have compatible power for it - some of these small machines still take 3ø power...

 

[Maui]

Looks like it was produced in Taiwan.

 

[Ign]

It's tiny but looks relatively stout. R8 spindle so that's good. I wouldn't want it but a hobbyist might. Add a basic DRO for a few hundred.

I'm not exactly familiar but looks like the head moves on ways rather than the knee. I'm sure these have a cult following somewhere in cyberland.

Me personally I'd save my $900 and put it toward a real vertical knee mill, but if you don't have the space...

 

[ar2stp48]

It may be earlier model, but google King milling machine. there are a few (images) that have same basic design. Good that it takes R-8 collets; and has more rigid column. The round column models are called a mill/drill for a reason. This is a good step above them. Looks like all moving adjustments are by dovetail. Seller says OBO; look it over and make an offer--cash in hand. With vise, tooling, etc it could be a good deall

 

[larry_g]

That might be a good machine. Not your typical mill drill. If it fits your work envelope and is still tight. That machine has some features of a jig boring machine. I wonder if it has a power down feed?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[KLRCraig]

I have one just like it.

 

[Ign]

I have one just like it.

....and does it have power down feed?

 

[Aaron_W]

Hard to tell the size, but I'm guessing at least an 8x30" table? $900 for a square column mill isn't bad, and that looks fairly stout for a bench top mill.

If it were close to me, I'd be taking a look at it.

 

[LXCam]

That's a really nice unit. As long as it had nothing smaller then a 1-1/2hp motor I'd be all over that. Hell just that Albright keyless chunk is a couple hundy.

 

[theoldwizard1]

That one looks pretty stout ! How is the speed controlled ? Electronic, belts, gears ? How is the column attached to the base ?

Find someone who is a machinist who can "tram" the X, Y and Z dimensions. It is not that difficult. You need a machinist share and one maybe two dial indicators. It won't be prefect, but you will know what you are buying.

 

[Strouty]

Around here for a little more you can buy a bridgeport with a DRO, unless you need the smaller size, I would pass. The R8 is a nice feature and the machine does look rugged, but I would wait, who knows what would happen if you needed parts.

 

[gte718p]

I would absolutely rock it. Looks like a good combination of size and rigidity. Add a little Yuri's toys DRO or a CNC conversion and rock and roll.

 

[ddawg16]

Not immediately in the market for one but saw this today. Don't know much at all about Mills. This one looks different than what I usually see around here.

First generation Chinese?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/tls/d/phoenix-bench-top-milling-machine/6793651654.html

I see this as "I have some things I'd like to try if I had a mill"

I'm the same kinda guy...…..sometimes our projects are not because of need but because of tools we just bought.

I'm on the fence.....the spindle size really does kinda future proof it.

But....for that money, unless you really need it now....maybe it's best to pass.

Let the guy who has a more immediate need ****** it up....then when he gets tired of it...****** it from him

 

[matt_i]

That one looks pretty stout ! How is the speed controlled ? Electronic, belts, gears ? How is the column attached to the base ?

Find someone who is a machinist who can "tram" the X, Y and Z dimensions. It is not that difficult. You need a machinist share and one maybe two dial indicators. It won't be prefect, but you will know what you are buying.

Tram is squareness of the spindle to the table. On a bigger machine (thinking Bridgeport & friends) there are specific mechanisms built-in to adjust the head/spindle in 2 dimensions. On this one its scraped into the Z-way column alignment. So there is no changing it on this machine short of busting out your surface plate and scraper which is a job fraught with extreme peril.

You need 1 dial indicator and a bar bent in an L- shape to "tram the head". It can be something you bent in a vise with a hammer as long as it holds the indicator rigidly. The bar is put in the collet & tightened and the spindle rotated slowly by hand, observing the indicator marks. One can either "jump" the table slots or use a 1-2-3 block with no-holes. Note readings at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 and the changes are made (where possible) to make all of those readings equal.

Now your head is in tram and its time to indicate the fixed jaw on the milling vise....

Personally I'd say as long as there isn't extreme backlash in the X or Y leadscrews its going to be OK. I'd want to cut a little metal if the seller is willing for a live fire test. In my book, having a Z-way is much much better than a round column.

 

[Riggerson]

I'd personally wait for a bridgeport to pop up. It's not much larger or more expensive and it will be a significantly better machine. The good thing about that machine is that when/if you decide to upgrade the R8 tooling will still be useful or at least saleable.

It does look like a nice little machine though. But if you know you want to get into machining it makes more sense to just buy the larger mill the first time.

 

[Bretny]

In the mid 90s my father bought two ENCO mills for his window and door machine shop. He and two other guys worked in that shop for many many years. One of those mills was always making chips. Until the day he sold them he only replaced the drive belt and one power switch. They were still tight and accurate.

My first job after i left working in his machine shop was a diesel tech that had a small machine shop. In there they had a Bridgeport mill. It was terrible. The head would always go out of square, the table feeds had huge slop and used a crappy split style collet. My fathers WW1 erra rough cut mill was more accurate than this Bridgeport. His was so old no out would buy it and had to scrap it. That old mill would cut nearly 1/4in deep and 8in wide with one pass.

Point is dont buy a mill for the name. Buy it because its tight, accurate and well taken care of.