Milling Machine

[Johnny A]

Hello,
Any feedback on the item below?




http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=334984&gclid=CNnU_ZfqocoCFQErHwodVjkAfA

 

[dcmus]

I have a larger round column mill drill. It's a great drill press but when milling in the X axis the head will move at the most inopportune times. Just my 2 cents.

 

[larry_g]

Being that is a JT1 taper and no drawbar I would not classify that as a mill. The milling process puts sideloads on the spindle that the JT1 will not like and cutters try to pull themselves out of the holder so a drawbar is needed to restrain them.

If your doing plastics work or wood you might have some success, but steel? I doubt it.

Compare your linked machine to this one, http://grizzly.com/products/G8689

I'm not making suggestions here but look at the features that separate the griz mill from the shopfox drill press.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Johnny A]

Larry G:

Thank you!!! That is perfect!!






http://capecod.craigslist.org/tls/5385598649.html

 

[Kevin54]

I have a larger round column mill drill. It's a great drill press but when milling in the X axis the head will move at the most inopportune times. Just my 2 cents.

That's because it is not a true mill. It's a glorified drill press. And one of the easiest ways to wreck a part is to try an mill in a drill press. Same with the OP "mill". It is not made to really be a mill because of the spindle size and the side load on the quill. And I don't care whether they call it a mill or not, it is NOT a mill. I know, I've ran mills most of my life from small to large.

Save your money and buy a real mill. Something a little more heavy duty than what you have. You want something that is rigid, that won't break an endmill when you put a little too much load on it.

Something else.....look at the table travel. it's less than 3"x6". Not hardly enough travel for anything. If you shop around, you can find a Bridgeport, or a Bridgeport knockoff for around $1500. It might not happen today, or it might not happen tomorrow, but it will happen. They come up for sale all of the time. You just have to be patient. If size is an issue, look for a mill smaller than a Bridgeport, but something that is a true mill. Look at JET or Grizzly for one. Here is one from Grizzly for less than a thousand http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill/G0758

Here are (4) for less than $1500. Take notice that the third one for $1395 has a dovetail column. This is more rigid than your normal column you find on mills. http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(category:"Milling+Machines")+AND+(price:[1000.00+TO+1499.99])

 

[Kevin54]

In looking, here is a Bridgeport in Everett for $1500. It looks like it needs some cleaning and some paint, but that is just cosmetic http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/5376332507.html

Here is one in Somerset for $400 if you want to put one back together, which wouldn't be bad if he just tore it apart to move it. It looks like the only thing off of it is the table. http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/5376332507.html

So look around, there are ones out there that I believe you would be more satisfied with over the small one you are originally looking at.

 

[tcianci]

Kevin is right on

 

[Falcon67]

X3 on all the above - the Northern link is a mini drill press and probably not a very good one at that. Beware of buying a mini-mill like the Grizzly link - be sure of the size and scope of projects to be worked on the mill because you can get outside the parameters of a small machine real quick.

Kevin, both your links go to the same place.

I have a larger round column mill drill. It's a great drill press but when milling in the X axis the head will move at the most inopportune times. Just my 2 cents.

Why I bought a square column - and that there are few if any B-ports that come up for sale here.

 

[matt_i]

+1 or +4 wherever we are, get a Bridgeport or clone and don't look back on wasted funds with regret.

 

[My Old Tools]

There are some capable mills smaller than a Bridgeport or clone. Look at Millrite (Powermatic or Burke) at about 3/4 of a Bridgeport, or Clausing and Rockwell at about 1/2 a Bridgeport size. They don't have as large a work envelope as a BP, but they are capable of doing fine precision work if you aren't in a big hurry.

 

[Rrumbler]

And, gimme a +5. That is not a milling machine, would definitely let you down.

 

[Johnny A]

guys thanks for the input. I think I should save up & buy a a good used one than an inexpensive one. I'm trying to "cheap out" but it will bite me in the *** with one screw up.

Kevin54: Thanks for the link. I will email the guy & see if he wants to do some trades for it or partial $ & trade..


T

 

[My Old Tools]

You should have a wide selection in Mass.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

There are some capable mills smaller than a Bridgeport or clone. Look at Millrite (Powermatic or Burke) at about 3/4 of a Bridgeport, or Clausing and Rockwell at about 1/2 a Bridgeport size. They don't have as large a work envelope as a BP, but they are capable of doing fine precision work if you aren't in a big hurry.

I was able to get a Millrite myself, although I had to look for months and drive a few hundred miles to find one. They aren't necessarily any cheaper, but they will fit in a smaller space...which is nice.

One thing to keep in mind on some of these old machines (like the Millrite) is they were originally available with different tapers. Mine is R8 which makes it compatible with tons of tooling which you can still buy. Many were built to other specs, such as BS9, which will make it a lot harder to find tooling for them.

And...make sure your budget includes $ for tooling. It adds up fast.

Phil

 

[kf4zht]

If you have to buy new take a look the Precision Matthews machines. They are square column and have the HP to make decent cuts. I picked one up due to lack of used machinery in the area and have been very happy with it.

 

[Jeffsmachine]

If You really do need a small bench top sized precision mill, here is one with an R8 spindle.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5500&category=1387807683
They also have cheaper models with R8 spindles, so check out their website.

If You just want a general purpose mill,not precision, but need it to be a small bench top size , the Grizzly type of mill/drill will work.

But You can't beat a used Bridgeport if You have the room.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Lots of good info at mini-mill.com

Below is probably the best mini-mill you can buy.

If You really do need a small bench top sized precision mill, here is one with an R8 spindle.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5500&category=1387807683
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But You can't beat a used Bridgeport if You have the room.But You can't beat a used Bridgeport if you have the room.

Very true !

 

[bobss396]

Better off making a friend with someone that has a Bridgeport than spending $439 on that one. $439 will buy lots of beer (standard payment for services rendered.. or free lunch).

My Bridgeport (1967 vintage) is getting old and I'll be looking for another one maybe next year. I'd sell mine to anyone in the area for around $1500.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Better off making a friend with someone that has a Bridgeport than spending $439 on that one. $439 will buy lots of beer (standard payment for services rendered.. or free lunch).

I found a friend right here ! $439 doesn't get much, if any, tooling. Probably not even a good vice !

 

[gte718p]

Everyone loves to hate on the round column mills. Don't get me wrong, they have distinct and annoying drawbacks, however you can do good work on them. I have RF31. I have a thread on here where I'm converting it to CNC. I've done a lot of good work with it, including in steel. Yes it would have been faster and easier with a Bridgeport, but I don't have 220 power nor space in the garage for a Bridgeport.

If you have the infrastructure by all means get the full sized mill. If not don't be afraid of the round columns. Understand there limitations and start making chips.

The best of both worlds is a Clausing 8520. I looked for years to find one and finally gave up. Then one pops up local.

 

[Jeffsmachine]

Yep, love the small Clausing knee mill like an 8520, but hard to find and $$$.
Small older US made knee mills are always hard to find and $$$$.
My second mill is a great little Benchmaster that converts from vertical spindle , to horizontal. Always get a knee mill if You can afford the differance http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vertical-Mill/G3102
My last Bridgeport had been converted to 110 v by mounting a new motor onto a motor plate made from 1/2" aluminum.
I helped a friend improve accuracy on a round column drill/ mill by making a better collar and rack gear key way guide, but it still needs to be re-indicated in after moving the spindle vertically.

 

[pepi]

If you have to buy new take a look the Precision Matthews machines. They are square column and have the HP to make decent cuts. I picked one up due to lack of used machinery in the area and have been very happy with it.

Good advice .... The garage's Christmas present this year was a Mill form PM .

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

I purchased this mill used for ~$1,200 or so.. its a round ram (overarm) and I've not had any issues with it moving.. I have a hydraulic spindle / quill feed that I need to change a shaft in the head to use, but haven't yet. I purchased it because it broke down enough for me to disassemble it with an engine hoist, move it into my basement shop, and reassemble with an engine hoist.. The largest part (column) was taken down the basement stairs with an appliance cart by 3 of us... Since its SBL, tooling is hard to find, but I've done OK with it..it has an interesting mechanical table feed mechanism that used the SBL tumbler system that I purchased from SB Latheman and installed myself..

View media item 56564

 

[monkers]

I have one of those South Bend Mills at my shop at work. Decent machine, little small for what we want to do, but a nice machine. The spindle taper is 30MM, you can use 30NMTB tooling if you put the set screw pockets in them. I did one for a drill chuck taper. I built a little fixture to hold and index the taper to cut the pockets. If I remember Ill snap a picture of it. Worked great. I seen it on another site and made one similar.

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

I have one of those South Bend Mills at my shop at work. Decent machine, little small for what we want to do, but a nice machine. The spindle taper is 30MM, you can use 30NMTB tooling if you put the set screw pockets in them. I did one for a drill chuck taper. I built a little fixture to hold and index the taper to cut the pockets. If I remember Ill snap a picture of it. Worked great. I seen it on another site and made one similar.

Yeah, I have some of the cat30 with the retainer threaded hole in them, that I would love to cut the set screw spot-face in.... very interested in your fixture....

 

[APEowner]

If you're ready to buy a full size machine I suggest you give these guys -> http://www.usedmachinery1.com/ a call. They have a constantly changing inventory of used equipment. You won't steal anything from them but they'll give you a fair price and an accurate description of what they've got. I've bought a Bridgeport, a Hartford brand Bridgeport clone and a Southbend lathe from them over the years and I've always found them to be really great to deal with.

Also, when you're planing your budget keep in mind that the machine is the cheap part. It's the tooling that's expensive.

 

[monkers]

I'll try to attach the photos, can't get into my photo bucket account, haven't used it in a while and forgot the passwords.

 

[monkers]

 

[monkers]

First photo shows the fixture in the vice, second photo is the 30 NMTB and 30MM side by side, third is the fixture on the vice, fourth is the mill itself.
The fixture is just a block of steel, of unknown variety, bored to accept the 30 NMTB taper and the round drawbar part. I use a bolt to draw it into the fixture to hold it tight.
The fixture has an arm with a lug on it that goes into the slots on the taper shank, after cutting the first pocket loosen the draw bar bolt and index to the other slot to cut the second pocket.
I use an original 30 MM end mill holder to set up the fixture in the vice. I set the table stops once I have the fixture centered and a cutter seated in the pocket. I set the depth stop also with the cutter seated in the original. I lock the table so it doesnt move, then I put the 30 NMTB shank in tighten it up, and use the quill feed handle to plunge down nice and easy. I use carbide end mills also, I think its 7/16 but you would have to measure, been a while since Ive done one and dont remember. Hope this helps, any questions feel free to ask.

 

[monkers]

The fixture has a 45 degree ledge cut on it to sit on the vise because the pockets are 45 degrees, forgot to mention that.

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Super cool.. very thoughtful.. Hummm....

 

[monkers]

Easy to make, and comes in handy. I didnt think it up, and cant remember what forum I seen it on or the gentlemans name, so I apologize for not giving him credit.

 

[JunkYardDawg]

guys thanks for the input. I think I should save up & buy a a good used one than an inexpensive one. I'm trying to "cheap out" but it will bite me in the *** with one screw up.

Kevin54: Thanks for the link. I will email the guy & see if he wants to do some trades for it or partial $ & trade..


T

Chiming in late here, but I agree with the Bridgeport comments.

I've been a machinist my whole life. My dad was a machinist. I've been around a lot of metalworking machinery as a result. I can say one thing about the Bridgeport: All other milling machines aspire to be a Bridgeport - plain and simple. A Bridgeport is like a Harley. All the other brands try to make models that appeal to Harley enthusiasts, but in the end you may as well break down and buy a Harley. You picking up what I'm laying down?

There is more information written, more accessories, more parts, more service available, more EVERYTHING available to a Bridgeport owner than any other machine. If you are a serious hobbyist, or serious about your business, nothing else will do. Period.

 

[JoeFin]

Kevin gave you some really good advice.

Machining can be very addictive no matter if your refurbishing classic cars to inventing widgets. No sense in getting bogged down with "step 2" of getting a better (real) milling machine.

 

[Steelbuilder]

I've been looking at buying a mill for about a year now and have seen everything under $2000 It's important to consider what you are going to use the machine for, if your wanting to do large precision work and intend to use the machine regularly ,then by all means get a used bridgeport. Just remember used machines are like used cars, can be a great value if well cared for, if not they can be a money pit. If your wanting something to learn on that may only get used a few times then consider the harbor freight mini mill Item#44991 its the same machine as the Grizzly G8689 but with a 20% coupon it can be had for just over $500.

Personally I'm going with either a Grizzly G0759 with DROs or G0704 both should work great for hobby use on Yamaha parts, 80%receivers, model engines and anything else I'm likely to need it for.

 

[gnpenning]

Might be to far away...

http://kalispell.craigslist.org/for/5406126000.html

 

[rodm1]

Might be to far away...

http://kalispell.craigslist.org/for/5406126000.html

That is a grate machine if not worn out better then a bridgeport.

 

[Kevin54]

That is a grate machine if not worn out better then a bridgeport.

What makes it better than a Bridgeport? Just curious

 

[yaidunno]

Chiming in late here, but I agree with the Bridgeport comments.

I've been a machinist my whole life. My dad was a machinist. I've been around a lot of metalworking machinery as a result. I can say one thing about the Bridgeport: All other milling machines aspire to be a Bridgeport - plain and simple. A Bridgeport is like a Harley. All the other brands try to make models that appeal to Harley enthusiasts, but in the end you may as well break down and buy a Harley. You picking up what I'm laying down?

There is more information written, more accessories, more parts, more service available, more EVERYTHING available to a Bridgeport owner than any other machine. If you are a serious hobbyist, or serious about your business, nothing else will do. Period.

I’m certainly not trying to discredit, or necessarily disagree with your post, but you are one of the first people I’ve heard say that the Bridgeport is the “Cadillac” of manual knee mills. While they certainly did come up with the general architecture of the knee mill as we know today, there are other models that offer more rigidity, larger castings, and more features. Lagun and Wells come to mind. This is certainly not to say that there is anything wrong with a Bridgeport, as they are a very fine manual mill. What you’re paying for is the name, to some extent. It’s been beaten into people’s heads since the 40’s, no different than “Crescent” has for adjustable wrenches.

As for comparing them to a Harley, well, I’d take a finely crafted Japanese or Italian sport bike over a lumbering air cooled cruiser any day of the week. Not everyone wants to follow the crowd.

In any case, a quality Bridgeport (or clone) style mill will be head and shoulders above round column machine.

 

[justanengineer]

Everything's relative including rigidity and price. The bigger/heavier mills typically have bigger/heavier heads which are a PITA to finely position, the smaller ones cant take too heavy of a cut. Pricing is a similar trade-off - smaller mills typically sell for more but use dirt cheap R8 tooling, larger machines are often semi-expensive 40 taper.

When I get my next shop I'm going to find either another Van Norman or K&T to sit alongside my baby Bridgeport so I have the best of both worlds. Compromises ****, multiple machines rule.