Milling Trees Into Lumber/Slabs

[Hawk136439]

Hey everybody!

I have a few Walnut trees in the backyard that I need to cut down and I would hate to have it all just go to fire wood. I have a big chainsaw and everything I need to build an Alaskan mill but I'm wondering if anyone can recommend some good resources on aging the wood after I slab it all up?

I have heard that a good rule of thumb is a year for every inch of thickness but that's about where my knowledge on the subject runs out.

Attached is the first one that is already dropped but I have 7 more to go.

 

[cgrutt]

Seal end grain with an oil based paint (latex should also work) and stack it flat with stickers in between boards to allow for air movement between the boards. Best to cover top if left outside. You could also throw some weight on top of stack (sandbags, cinderblocks etc) to limit movement. Alaskan Mill will waste alot of the lumber may want to see if a local mill will cut it for you. Good luck that looks like some beautiful wood.

ETA yeah 1 year per inch is general rule of thumb.

 

[gba2331]

After one tree you’ll be looking for a bandsaw mill…chainsaw mills are exhausting.

One year per inch seems to work for me, maybe buy a moisture meter. Not sure if you need to worry about bugs (eg apply Boracare)

 

[gba2331]

This site is an excellent resource

Sawmills and Milling

Questions and discussions on sawmills, and the milling of lumber Sawmills and Milling sponsored in part by: [br][url="https://woodmizer.com/"][img]https://forestryforum.com/woodmizer_board.gif[/img][/url] [url="http://www.cookssaw.com/"][img]https://forestryforum.com/cooks_board.gif[/img][/url]...

forestryforum.com

 

[Firebrick43]

There isn't going to be a lot of usable wood in that log with those crotches.

I use a logosol timber jig/ms660 to mill trees and don't find doing a single tree to be that bad of a job.

Make sure the ends are sealed, the wood is well stickered 12" between slabs and stacked on a flat solid surface, and its covered and has air flow.

 

[jblnut]

When I season wood I make stickers out of some of the discard pieces of the freshly milled wood to keep everything touching the wood the same. I'll make them 3/8" thick and 1-1/2" wide and put them every 12". I put the stacks on pallets to keep them off the ground and make them around 6' tall. On top I put the crappier boards so if they twist and warp it isn't as big of a deal. I'll put some used tin on top with a bunch of cement blocks on top of the tin to keep it from blowing away and to put some weight on the top layers of boards.

With cheap and ready available wood like oak and ash I don't have a problem using a chainsaw mill but I've gone away from that for everything and pay a guy to come onsite with a bandsaw mill. The yield per log is a lot more and I'm not trashing chainsaws. At first I had an 044 and 24" bar on a mill, then upgraded to a 660 and a 32" bar and then an 880 and a 36" bar. The reason for the upgrades wasn't because I wanted larger setups, it was because the saws were not holding up to the amount they were getting used and were wearing out. I had extra drip oilers on the ends and even a small air blast going into the clutch area to keep things clean and cool and they still would eat clutches and melt pistons. Running the mix extra oily helped a lot but it is still really hard on saws.

Find a guy with a portable saw rig and at least see what it's cost to have him come in and do it for you. I pay this guy $60/machine hour. When you look at the increase in production and product gained by having a thinner kerf it's a no brainer.

 

[gba2331]

How long do you think it would take to make one pass through the middle (once you got there) of that 10' tree? For me I'd estimate at least 15 min with a freshly sharpened blade & Stihl MS400.

Its definitely worth trying once for the experience, but then I decided to spend $$$ on a bandsaw mill and save my knees, back, and lungs. YMMV of coursre.

 

[WillyBoy]

If you're a wood turner or know someone who is, those crotches would be nice to work with.
I've tried oil base and latex paints on end grain. I've had much better results with Anchorseal.

 

[Firebrick43]

How long do you think it would take to make one pass through the middle (once you got there) of that 10' tree? For me I'd estimate at least 15 min with a freshly sharpened blade & Stihl MS400.

Walnut, as long as it’s not dirty or in a place with a lot of wind blown sand, less than 10 min per cut. It cuts easy.

It’s definitely worth trying once for the experience, but then I decided to spend $$$ on a bandsaw mill and save my knees, back, and lungs. YMMV of coursre.

There is nothing to prevent lifting a log off the ground to save your knees and back with a chainsaw mill? If one has the equipment to move logs to and load a bandmill then it stands to reason they have equipment to lift logs and a respirator keeps your lungs clean.

Don’t get me wrong if I have two large logs or three smaller logs or more then they get loaded up and hauled 5 miles away to my local sawyer with a nice woodmizer.

 

[MongoTA]

Years ago I fashioned a winch setup for my alaskan mill, I used an inexpensive trailer winch one that probably goes for $15-$20. Crank handle is on the operator's end of the mill, the winch line then runs out to a pulley anchored at the far end of the log being cut, then returns and is anchored on the far end of the mill. When taut, the winch line looks like a "V".

Get the saw going and use the winch to advance/pull the mill versus having to use your lower back. World of difference in level of fatigue and a more consistent quality of cut.

Don't cut into dirty bark. Even clean bark can contain bits that can dull a chain. Consider debarking the cut line on the side of the log where the chain will enter the log.

Insert wedges into the kerf as you go.

Consider skip tooth chain loops.

Watch your fuel and oil levels. The goal is to not run out of either during a cut.

I understand the appeal of DIY, it resonates. But it is work, and there will be a learning curve. Save your better logs for after you've honed your technique.

 

[BigMike782]

Some sawyers don't want to cut "yard" logs because of the "stuff" that can be in them. My sawyer is ok with them as long as I know that any blades he ruins hitting stuff I'm paying for.
I highly second the use of Anchorseal. It will leave a much better film than the paint I have used but ANY sealer is better than nothing.
Another second for cutting the crotches into turning blanks.

 

[dcg9381]

Seal end grain with an oil based paint (latex should also work) and stack it flat with stickers in between boards to allow for air movement between the boards. Best to cover top if left outside. You could also throw some weight on top of stack (sandbags, cinderblocks etc) to limit movement.

(FYI: Photo from a local sawmill that sells slabs and custom finishing)

 

[RTM]

Here is a thread by a guy who recovers logs from the river, saws them, and built a solar kiln to dry them. Fun read, living vicariously thru him.

Sawmill

After a month long wait, my sawmill arrived today! A couple years ago I started considering buying a mill. I started to research the different brands, pouring over reviews, and narrowed in on the Woodland Mills HM126 Woodlander. I know there are other machines out there, but this make/model...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[fozzy]

Yep, what RTM said ^^^. First thing I though of was RivennHewn when I saw this thread.

 

[LopezBart]

Having milled several cedar logs with an Alaska mill and my beleaguered 20" Stihl, I do not recommend trying this with walnut, even w/ a monster saw. If you do so:

• Set up a good fan to blow the exhaust away from you.
• Wear a respirator.
• Figure out how to get the logs in a stable, comfortable working height.
• Use chains specifically designed for ripping wood, and plan on sharpening them often.

I'd set something up and try w/ a poor quality log; you may find yourself uninterested in continuing. These logs were 19" or so max diameter; there are some areas I had to mill from both sides, leaving a rough cut. For this purpose the result was fine, but nice lumber it isn't.

Here are the raised beds my wife built w/ the lumber I milled. The branches are ocean spray; they help stabilize the deer screening. The garden has grown some nice produce when we can keep up with it and the weather cooperates.

 

[NBraun]

I would agree with everything said previously. Chainsaw milling is more labor intensive and a bigger pain than a bandsaw mill. That being said, the cost of entry is pretty low compared to a bandsaw mill that has a decent log capacity, and if you're just doing it as a hobby it's not THAT bad.

I was in a similar situation. I had picked up a large maple log than I wanted to mill. It was too big for most bandsaw mills, so that wasn't even in the cards. I picked up a farmertec 660, and a cheap bar. I built my own mill and set it up with a boat winch. You're going to want at least a few extra chains as well. All in I probably have $700 into the setup with 3 chains.

Each slab took about 10-15 minutes, and a tank of fuel. Once I figured out to use wedges to keep from pinching the blade anyways.

I would also recommend a good respirator.

For the lumber I got, the time and effort was worth it, and would do it again, but it was simply a means to an end. I did not enjoy the process.

 

[toolmiser]

People will disagree with me, but I would get the boards milled to 1 1/8" thickness if you want to end up around 3/4". They will shrink thru drying, and the extra thickness will let you work around sawing irregularities, and a little warpage/bowing.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

When I season wood I make stickers out of some of the discard pieces of the freshly milled wood to keep everything touching the wood the same. I'll make them 3/8" thick and 1-1/2" wide and put them every 12". I put the stacks on pallets to keep them off the ground and make them around 6' tall. On top I put the crappier boards so if they twist and warp it isn't as big of a deal. I'll put some used tin on top with a bunch of cement blocks on top of the tin to keep it from blowing away and to put some weight on the top layers of boards.

With cheap and ready available wood like oak and ash I don't have a problem using a chainsaw mill but I've gone away from that for everything and pay a guy to come onsite with a bandsaw mill. The yield per log is a lot more and I'm not trashing chainsaws. At first I had an 044 and 24" bar on a mill, then upgraded to a 660 and a 32" bar and then an 880 and a 36" bar. The reason for the upgrades wasn't because I wanted larger setups, it was because the saws were not holding up to the amount they were getting used and were wearing out. I had extra drip oilers on the ends and even a small air blast going into the clutch area to keep things clean and cool and they still would eat clutches and melt pistons. Running the mix extra oily helped a lot but it is still really hard on saws.

Find a guy with a portable saw rig and at least see what it's cost to have him come in and do it for you. I pay this guy $60/machine hour. When you look at the increase in production and product gained by having a thinner kerf it's a no brainer.

Ok you are making your stickers out of the same wood you are slabbing. Why 3/8” thick versus the size you are slabbing say
1 1/8”. The 3/8” after drying is relatively useless for anything. Since material would be at the same moisture level to begin with. Even if the width of pile is 4’ that board would still be useable. Or to make things more simple make the stack 8’ wide x 8’ long.
Worst case scenario is the wife might have to repile the lumber half way through drying process.
Result no wasted lumber.

I don’t have access to much for deciduous lumber but have a small chainsaw mill and want to give it a go. I already had 3 chainsaws but bought a new Stihl, along with a modification kit with a proper chain. Haven’t used it as yet but looking forward to making some wood chips fly.

 

[Jim C.]

I have a walnut s lab on my bench right now. It’s destined to be a desktop hopefully in a couple weeks

Jim C.

 

[Firebrick43]

Ok you are making your stickers out of the same wood you are slabbing. Why 3/8” thick versus the size you are slabbing say 1-1/8

Mice and birds will make their home in between the boards if they are tall enough to fit in there.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Mice and birds will make their home in between the boards if they are tall enough to fit in there.

Don’t mean to be a PITA but if I have a bunch of 1/4” plastic mesh I wouldn’t have a problem.

 

[jblnut]

When I season wood I make stickers out of some of the discard pieces of the freshly milled wood to keep everything touching the wood the same.

Ok you are making your stickers out of the same wood you are slabbing. Why 3/8” thick versus the size you are slabbing say
1 1/8”. The 3/8” after drying is relatively useless for anything. Since material would be at the same moisture level to begin with. Even if the width of pile is 4’ that board would still be useable. Or to make things more simple make the stack 8’ wide x 8’ long.
Worst case scenario is the wife might have to repile the lumber half way through drying process.
Result no wasted lumber.

As said in a post above if the stickers are thicker mice and critters make homes in my wood.

I make the stickers out of pieces that wouldn’t be much good for actual lumber. I’m not taking nice boards and ripping them down. I take the leftover slabs and have them milled into the stickers.

I stack onto 48” pallets so I can move them around with the skiddy if needed. When milling I grade and sort the lumber as it’s coming off the mill so I have no real need to restack it until I want to use it to build something.

In a picture above there are large slabs that look to be stored indoors that have thicker stickers and even some 3” thick ones. The 3” thick stickers are so a forklift can get in there and break down the piles. Being indoors the stickers can be thicker without fear of critters getting in there.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Don't forget to buy a ripping chain. They aren't the same as your average chain.

 

[jblnut]

Don't forget to buy a ripping chain. They aren't the same as your average chain.

I put a ripping grind on old chains when I was still chainsaw milling. I used old chains that were already a few sharpenings from being shot. They have a thinner kerf and I didn’t have to buy new chains. Not everyone can do this but if you have extra chains and a grinder I’d say go for it.

 

[toolmiser]

FIL in northern Wisconsin would use rip cutoffs usually 1" ish, but didn't seem to have an issue with birds and mice, maybe because we saw a couple snakes come out of the piles when disassembling them.

 

[Torque&Recoil]

The comment about making stickers out of the same wood is right on. If you use a different species, it can stain the lumber. I have a bunch of ash which has stain marks every couple feet where the stickers were. I couldn't really plane enough material off to remove the marks and still get the thickness I needed. Not sure how much of a problem this would be with a darker wood like walnut, but you don't want to find out.

 

[Jim C.]

I have a walnut s lab on my bench right now. It’s destined to be a desktop hopefully in a couple weeks

Jim C.

I’m making progress.

Jim C.

 

[Jim C.]

I’m making progress.

Jim C.

Pretty much done. I just need to tuck in all the wires.

Jim C.

 

[RonnieC]

Pretty much done. I just need to tuck in all the wires.

Jim C.

Very nice and takes advantage of the shape of the space!

 

[Renegade1LI]

I was hot on the idea of buying a mill but there are so many around I don't think it pays. I have one guy I bought some rough sawn from & he said he'll mill anything I bring him. I still like the idea of having a mill one day just for fun.