Milwaukee Cordless Table Saw

[Wamsutta]

This thing looks real neat. What you guys think?

 

[Muttly]

I've had it over a year. It is legit. For a travel table saw it is perfect. I'm not getting rid of my unisaw, but my 8" Makita that I've had for 25 years hasn't been plugged in since this showed up.

Layout is great, fence works good, even has a clipped in push-stick right where you need it.

I ordered the stand for it, my Makita was used way too much on the ground with me on my knees cutting stuff.

 

[danski0224]

This thing looks real neat. What you guys think?

I have seen them used on commercial jobs (and not babied or used for a few cuts only), it isn't junk.

Check the specs.

 

[Tom Sestito]

I have one. Great saw. One minor quibble with the fence system, is that depending you need to pay attention to the measuring tape - it's easy to read the wrong one and cut the wrong size part. They have the measuring tape offset because you need to put the fence onto different pegs to get the wider rip capacity.

Otherwise, make sure you have HO batteries. I've been running it off of a couple 8ah HO batteries and the run time is ok for ripping small stuff.


As noted above I wouldn't get rid of my big saw but this one it pretty handy.

Dewalt fence system is still king, however.

 

[neophyte]

This thing looks real neat. What you guys think?

People like this youtuber are the reason SawStop was invented.

 

[jives]

People like this youtuber are the reason SawStop was invented

Explain his faults, please.

 

[neophyte]

Explain his faults, please.

Generally you want to make sure lumber cannot twist as you push the lumber against the fence and past the sawblade.
If the lumber twists or pivots, the blade can cause the lumber to kick back and get forced backwards into the saw user.
Some of the pieces he was cutting were eider, than long, making a kickback issue more likely.
Admittedly, this is a bit of nitpicking, since the side of the lumber against the fence was still fairly wide, and unlikely to pivot problematically, but it was a type of cut that is sometimes considered unsafe.

Cutting the tapered panel cuts on the face of the boards was the major safety issue.
That type of cut required the blade guard to be removed.
The Table Saw insert has a fairly wide opening compared to the blade width, leaving gaps on both sides of the blade.
The fence was also fairly short compared to the width of the panel being held vertical while bring cut.
The piece pivoting into the opening into the table saw top insert, and either getting thrown back at the saw user, and or twisting and potentially pulling a hand into the blade, are potential safety issues.

 

[jives]

Generally you want to make sure lumber cannot twist as you push the lumber against the fence and past the sawblade.
If the lumber twists or pivots, the blade can cause the lumber to kick back and get forced backwards into the saw user.
Some of the pieces he was cutting were eider, than long, making a kickback issue more likely.
Admittedly, this is a bit of nitpicking, since the side of the lumber against the fence was still fairly wide, and unlikely to pivot problematically, but it was a type of cut that is sometimes considered unsafe.

Cutting the tapered panel cuts on the face of the boards was the major safety issue.
That type of cut required the blade guard to be removed.
The Table Saw insert has a fairly wide opening compared to the blade width, leaving gaps on both sides of the blade.
The fence was also fairly short compared to the width of the panel being held vertical while bring cut.
The piece pivoting into the opening into the table saw top insert, and either getting thrown back at the saw user, and or twisting and potentially pulling a hand into the blade, are potential safety issues.

I agree that some cuts are inherently more dangerous than others, such as the panel bevels. But I disagree that a challenging cut automatically precludes making such cuts, or that they cannot be done safely (even though a zero clearance insert may have been a better choice for the dados). The safest cuts are 90* crosscuts with the miter gauge, but that does not mean long rips should not be done. Just because the blade guard needed to be removed also does not preclude making cuts.