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Milwaukee Cut off saw. What am I doing wrong?

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bedn0009

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I bought this saw on a great deal recently, but I can't get it to make any cuts without burning through multiple batteries...including the high 12 ah.

Video



Does this saw **** or am I doing something wrong?

The cut progress shown here is after 2 full batteries overheated and I'm still only halfway through.image.jpg
 

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PCustoms

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The Cobbler said:
I agree. the saw sounds weak. the motor looks very small to me as well. i'm thinking like above poster, maybe for conduit?
Click to expand...

I was wrong, steel studs.

Lol @ the power rating though....

”The MILWAUKEE M18 FUEL 14 in. Abrasive Chop Saw offers users a portable solution while generating the same power as a 15A Corded Chop Saw. The M18 FUEL 14 in. Abrasive Chop Saw utilizes a POWERSTATE Brushless Motor, providing 4,000RPM for consistent power and cut speed. REDLINK PLUS Intelligence ensures maximum performance and protection from overload, overheating, and over-discharge. When paired with the M18 REDLITHIUM HIGH OUTPUT HD12.0 Battery (not included), the cordless chop saw provides up to 200 cuts per charge in 3-5/8 in. 20-Gauge Steel Stud.”
Click to expand...
 
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Joemctag

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You just have to go slow. Cutting wheels on a 4-1/2” angle grinder is what I’d use if I didn’t have a big bandsaw. Mark your cut and guide it by hand. I did buy a chop saw many years ago but don’t use it anymore. It’s just slower on anything thicker than steel studs or all-thread or something. Also, if you’re cutting at an angle, clamp piece really solid.
With grinders, there’s a way to cut and a way not to. Easiest way to explain it is the sparks should be going back toward the body of the grinder. If it were to bind or dig in, the grinder would be pulled toward the work, not pushed back.
A cheap welding helmet with a clear lens makes a great grinder face shield. Be more careful cutting with the thin discs than you would be just grinding on something.
Also, you can change the discs andwheels by hand. Don’t need the wrench. They tighten in use. I use these a lot and most days fab I get steel.
 
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neophyte

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The blade looks like it’s wobbling around in the video, causing extra friction.
That looks to be the fault of the way the saw was built which doesn’t look that stiff or sturdy.

20 gauge steel which the saw is advertised for also isn’t very thick. (.911mm or .0359 inches)
 
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uart

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KnurledNut said:

:cool:
Click to expand...
That looks a lot more powerful, but I can see it's got two batteries.

For something that needs pretty high power levels, and looks like it's mostly going to be set up to use in one place, I'm a bit dubious about the benefits of battery over corded TBH. That one in the OP seems way under powered.

BTW. I don't have a chop saw, so forgive me if this is a dumb question, but is it possible to get a thinner cutting wheel for that thing? Thinner may not be as strong (though it only looks like fairly low power and low RPM anyway), but thinner usually cuts a lot better at lower power levels.
 
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uart

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signcrafter said:
Sounded like something rubbing when you first started out before lowering it?
Click to expand...
Sounded like a bit of a rattle, but didn't seem to slow it down. To me it seemed that it slowed down a lot from just the friction on the side walls of the disc as it lowered into the cut, before it really started cutting much at all. Like it just doesn't have enough power to overcome the friction of the sides of the blade in the cut.

I don't know enough about chop saw discs to recommend anything, but it seems that whatever type of disc that cuts most efficiently would be the best to make the most out of something a bit under powered like that.

I thought maybe thinner, but googling it, it seems that 3/32 is already pretty thin for a 14" disc. Maybe a better disc would cut a little more of a kerf and reduce the friction. Perhaps the sides of the disc just aren't abrasive enough to keep the cut wide enough and stop it jamming up?
 
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danski0224

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Those things have been essentially banned on jobsites for over 20 years. The GC's would make the trades (well, everyone but their own in house carpenters) get a hot work permit and require a fire watch to use that tool.

Back then, even a corded version mostly sucked and was easy to overpower.

I really only see carpenters (steel studs) or plumbers (cast iron) using the abrasive chop saw any more... on jobs that either don't have hot work permit requirements... or look away with a wink and a nod.

There's a DeWalt 60 volt cutoff saw that's the hot ticket for steel stud work. It looks like a smaller gas powered cutoff saw.
 
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redwrench60

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I’ll go ahead and say it. That saw *****. Sounds way underpowered. You can hear it struggling with the slightest load. That saw would get laughed out of the shop I work in by 7:33am.

There has to be something wrong with it.
 
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PCustoms

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redwrench60 said:
I’ll go ahead and say it. That saw *****. Sounds way underpowered. You can hear it struggling with the slightest load. That saw would get laughed out of the shop I work in by 7:33am.

There has to be something wrong with it.
Click to expand...

It's already been said.

Sorry to say, but @bedn0009 seems to have failed to read the specs, this inst made to cut heavy wall tube, it's made for lightweight 20 gauge studs.
 
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redwrench60

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PCustoms said:
It's already been said.

Sorry to say, but @bedn0009 seems to have failed to read the specs, this inst made to cut heavy wall tube, it's made for lightweight 20 gauge studs.
Click to expand...
That doesn’t look like it “has the same power as a 15A chop saw” as advertised.

I don’t think that thing would cut tampon strings let alone anything metal. It has to be defective…..
 
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neophyte

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A diamond grit ferrous blade might eliminate some of the possible side friction issues, but the diamond blades supposedly cut slower, have a slightly thicker kerf, and cost $100-$200 depending on brand, so it’s a high cost to try that as a Possible solution that might not work.
I don’t believe any of the 14” Cermet ferrous blades are rated for 4,000 rpm.
 
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Steve_P

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Diamond blades definitely cut way slower.

I didn't know they made a cordless chop saw, but there's no way you're going to get thru much solid stock with one, except maybe some threaded rod. A corded chop saw is a 15A hog for power, and the mfgs would use bigger motors, but that's a standard breaker size for 120V.
 
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American Locomotive

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Yeah, I'd say that's not a particularly good saw. The reviews on Milwaukee's own website are pretty damning.

"Cuts well for smaller items. Works great for pvc"
"It just bogs down."
"seems to bogg down too easy when trying to go thru thicker material."
"Was having hard time cutting through 1/8" tubing. Eats through batteries worse then any other cutting method. Would not recommend unless you're cutting plastic or aluminum."
"Was having hard time cutting through 1/8" tubing. Eats through batteries worse then any other cutting method. Would not recommend unless you're cutting plastic or aluminum."
"Great for thinner metals. Materials that have a small surface area. Start the cut with an angle grinder and cutting wheel and then you can cut thru thicker stuff once more of the blade is in the material"

Usually the battery powered saws have tricks, like super thin blades, to make them perform like more powerful saws. I don't think anyone makes 14" 1/16" thick abrasive blade, though.
 
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uart

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redwrench60 said:
That doesn’t look like it “has the same power as a 15A chop saw” as advertised.
Click to expand...
Yeah, 15A at 120 volt would be around 900 Watts, even taking quite pessimistic assumptions for power factor and efficiency.

There is no way the chopsaw in that video is even close to 900 Watts (1-1/4 HP)! Looks like it would be lucky to be 200 Watts.
 
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tarbellb

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12ah batter $300 + new M18 saw $500 + USA Sait blade $15 = $800 machine should be a pretty amazing cutting machine


The fact that it cant means its either lemon or a total miss by Milwaukee, which they typically dont do.

I would be looking at the M18 bandsaw and table or dedicated corded dry cut , BUT FIRST return and try another.
 
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