Milwaukee fuel 1/2" Mid torque VS High Torque usability

[Onefastgsx]

I've been wanting to buy a Fuel High torque impact for a few years now. I do quite a bit of automotive work, but I'm not a professional mechanic, and very rarely do suspension type work. I cant say I really NEED the power it puts out, but I sure would love to say I have the strongest impact on the market..
With that said, I was at a car show today that had a silent auction going on, and I was the the lucky winner of a fuel mid-torque impact with 5.0 battery and charger for $100! My first thought was to sell it and buy the high torque model I've been wanting. But after reading into it I'm realizing the mid torque has a good amount of power, but a more compact size that would probably make it alot more useful, especially in more confined areas.

I talked with my brother, who is a professional mechanic, which of his impacts he uses most often, between his snapon 3/8 and his Kobalt 1/2. He said the 3/8 is his go-to because of its size. In comparison, the mid torque model I just bought is small like his 3/8, but actually has the same power as his massive 1/2. So it seems like the mid torque might be the best of both worlds..?

What would you guys do? Stick with the mid torque, or trade up to the high torque?

 

[RedneckWelder]

For auto I would definitely stick with the mid torque

The high torque is a big SOB and a little porky. The mid torque is smaller and will therefor fit in more places plus being a couple pounds lighter will be appreciated

Get the high torque bare tool later if you still want it but I think you will find the mid torque a lot more versatile

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Stick with the mid-torque for sure, and use an air for the rest. That will take off most of the bolts on a non-rusty car and be a heck of a lot lighter the whole time. Nice deal btw.

 

[Badger 13]

Try out the mid torque and see if it fits your need. I think it will and for that price, what a deal.

 

[pbon]

I now reach for the mid torque way more than the high torque. It is more versatile. I have a whole range. I like the M12 3/8 stubby as well.

For years, all I had was the original version of the high torque and was very happy with it. Its specs were less than the mid torque, but I did not mind the size. I am 10 years older now, and don’t need to always use a real man’s impact if a lighter one gets the job done.

 

[X1 Mike]

I don't have the Milwaukee but I do have the Makita big dog and while it is a great tool it is big and heavy and I sure wouldn't want to use it all day. I'm very glad I ihave the Makita 3/8" impact as my go to. I would kind of like to have a compact 1/2" as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXO5P40/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SL2LYHM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I do also have one of the 1/4" hex chucks but I pretty much only use that for raising and lowering the leveling jacks on my camper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AD0ZZME/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rcbk00]

I have both. I use the mid torque most of the time. However, there are instances where I'm glad I have the big gun. Taking wheels of a friend's BMW the other day, the mid torque was having a hard time removing some of the wheel bolts. Rather than sit and hammer all day with the mid torque, I grabbed the high torque and it zipped them out with almost no hammering. It's huge and heavy though- I couldn't see using it as my main impact.

 

[javyLSU]

Last year I was making the same decision you're making right now. I wound up with two guns - the 1/2" Milwaukee Stubby (2555-20) and the high torque (2767-20). Previously I had tried the mid-torque when I went to do some suspension work on my FJ Cruiser - it wouldn't budge the bigger nuts found on truck suspensions. I exchanged it for the high torque, and THAT was the answer - just unbelievable power.

For everything else EXCEPT suspension work, I use the stubby. It might just be my favorite tool period, it's that good. Lots of power, and so light. If you only want to keep one gun, it's hard to argue with the "do everything" power of the high torque, but it won't fit everywhere, and you sure will feel it if you have to use it all day...

 

[RKA]

The mid torque model is the first cordless impact I've owned that has left the air tools in the tool box. It's got a lot more torque than it's size might indicate, yet it's still small enough to fit inside the wheel well when doing suspension work. Based on what you're saying, I would definitely try it out before stepping up to the bigger model. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

 

[Tallpilot]

I bought the older high torque (1100 instead of 1400 marketing bs torque) before the mid-torque came out. Now it pretty much collects dust but I keep it just in case. The mid-torque will do just about anything on a passenger car and is much more comfortable to use than the big boy.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Use the mid torque professionally on construction equipment everyday since I had it fixed under warranty (underpowered out of the box). Use it maybe 90% of the time. Anything it can't do is either handled by my IR air 1/2 or 3/4 guns. My older high torque now lives in my pickup box for side of the road stuff, changing out hitch balls and junkyard visits.

 

[visionguru]

I bought the older high torque (1100 instead of 1400 marketing bs torque) before the mid-torque came out. Now it pretty much collects dust but I keep it just in case. The mid-torque will do just about anything on a passenger car and is much more comfortable to use than the big boy.

Exactly! For the non-professionals, speed/convenience/comfort is not as much of an issue, but do need the power once in a while.

I have mid and high torque impacts from Ingersoll Rand. When working on my cars, the mid-torque is often used for taking off lug nuts, the high-torque is rarely used, but proven to be crucial for dealing with stubborn bolts. If I only keep 1 impact, it's definitely the high-torque: there are bolts on my car that a 550ft-lb rated mid torque couldn't remove, and when powering a ball joint press, the mid-torque won't cut it.

For the bolts that are less than 80 ft-lb, I enjoy using my ratchets more.

 

[Onefastgsx]

Well, after some thought, and all the advice from you guys, I decided I'd go ahead and stick with this mid torque model.
So, I just opened the box up. And if my $100 deal wasn't already sweet enough, there is not one, BUT TWO 5.0 batteries in the case! I am thrilled!

 

[04chase]

maybe its because of my background but dont see the need for a mid torque.

why not just use a 3/8 impact? it will output about the same as a midtorque 1/2 and be more compact in virtually every aspect.

turn the power down if it isnt needed.

 

[Pontiac787]

I believe the Milwaukee’s are the same gun with a different anvil. No real size advantage other than the ability to use slightly smaller sockets.

 

[Tallpilot]

Well, after some thought, and all the advice from you guys, I decided I'd go ahead and stick with this mid torque model.
So, I just opened the box up. And if my $100 deal wasn't already sweet enough, there is not one, BUT TWO 5.0 batteries in the case! I am thrilled!

I just paid $100 for two 5.0 batteries so you basically got the impact for free. I think you are going to love it. If you ever run into something it just won’t do then it is time to get a high torque.

maybe its because of my background but dont see the need for a mid torque.

why not just use a 3/8 impact? it will output about the same as a midtorque 1/2 and be more compact in virtually every aspect.

turn the power down if it isnt needed.

As mentioned the 3/8 mid torque is basically the same size as the 1/2. In my mind the typical size ranges of sockets makes more sense in 1/2 (12-27mm) for the mid torque and 3/8 (7-19mm) for the stubby. I like to avoid adapters on impacts (and in general really).

 

[javyLSU]

Well, after some thought, and all the advice from you guys, I decided I'd go ahead and stick with this mid torque model.
So, I just opened the box up. And if my $100 deal wasn't already sweet enough, there is not one, BUT TWO 5.0 batteries in the case! I am thrilled!

She's a keeper.

 

[M635_Guy]

Reviving this in a bit of buyer's-remorse-analysis and so future searches yield a better single result since this is in the same zone.

I'm switching from my old Craftsman C3 stuff to all Milwaukee. On Cyber Monday I got the M12 Fuel 1/2 Stubby impact and the M18 Fuel High-Torque. My logic was the stubby with a 1/2" anvil is more powerful than my big C3 1/2" impact and goes into far more tight spots, and where I need big torque the M18 High would be the answer. I anticipate/hope the M12 Stubby gives me 80% of what I need. I'm happy if that's true, and fine if it's more than 80%, too. I also got the M12 Fuel Surge 1/4" impact for light work and around-the-house stuff.

That said, I don't want to wind up in [A] breaking stuff (but my understanding is you can dial the gun down) and have a gap where the Stubby can't cut it and the M18 High won't fit.

I'm a DIY car guy, doing what I can on my daily and wife's Odyssey as well as two old BMW's, one very nice and one kinda crusty. I'm getting ready to do a lot of suspension work on the crusty one. I think the stubby and Surge will do all the non-automotive stuff I'll ever need.

The question: Should I return the M18 Fuel High and get the M18 Fuel Mid or should the combination two-impact kit cover me? (or, strictly speaking, three-impact kit)

Appreciate any insight y'all can offer!

Gratuitous shot:

 

[pbon]

I’d keep what you have. I have the 3/8 stubby, mid torque, high torque and some others. I rarely use the high but it’s nice when you need it. The 2 you have give you the greatest range. We have some BMWs, 73 2002, 74 Bavaria, 99 M3, 08 M3, 08 535xi wagon. We used to have a modded Euro 79 635csi. The Bavaria may get scrapped but has some mods (91 M30B35, 5 speed, LSD, bigger brakes, etc).

 

[M635_Guy]

I’d keep what you have. I have the 3/8 stubby, mid torque, high torque and some others. I rarely use the high but it’s nice when you need it. The 2 you have give you the greatest range. We have some BMWs, 73 2002, 74 Bavaria, 99 M3, 08 M3, 08 535xi wagon. We used to have a modded Euro 79 635csi.

Thanks - it's kinda why I bought it, and it seems like the 1/2" anvil and improved torque of the M12 Stubby *should* solve for the tight-space impact, but...

I guess I could use a wobble with the High in most cases....

The Bavaria may get scrapped but has some mods (91 M30B35, 5 speed, LSD, bigger brakes, etc).

Let me guess... it's got rust issues...

I hate to see the old ones go - seems like the Bavarias are coming up in price.

 

[RKA]

*edit* (in response to M635_guy)
That’s a tough one. I would go the other way and use the stubby and mid torque. Those are what I have and use 99% of the time DIYing the cars. The larger bolts typically only have 17-19mm heads (except the axles). I don’t have a high torque. The 2 times it might have come in handy, a breaker bar and cheater did what I needed. But one of those I wasn’t comfortable putting an impact on it, I wanted to “feel” what was happening to avoid rounding out a bolt and making a headache for myself. It’s very possible the mid torque would have done it.

My feeling is if the need presents itself I can get the high torque at any time. So far that hasn’t been the case and the lighter smaller mid torque is more nimble. If you were doing work on trucks with larger bolts and torque specs, I might swing the other way and get the high torque. But if it were me, I would take the same approach and use the mid torque for most of the work and add the high torque if the mid torque hits a wall too many times.

 

[_Riddle]

I've been happy with my 3/8 M12 stubby doing a lot of work on an '89 325i. Works really well getting into tight places, I'm hoping to pull the exhaust manifolds this week. The top 6 nuts/studs came out easily with the M12, now I just need to get clever with extensions an swivel sockets to get the bottom 6 out. I wish I bought this gun sooner.

 

[javyLSU]

Reviving this in a bit of buyer's-remorse-analysis and so future searches yield a better single result since this is in the same zone.

I'm switching from my old Craftsman C3 stuff to all Milwaukee. On Cyber Monday I got the M12 Fuel 1/2 Stubby impact and the M18 Fuel High-Torque. My logic was the stubby with a 1/2" anvil is more powerful than my big C3 1/2" impact and goes into far more tight spots, and where I need big torque the M18 High would be the answer. I anticipate/hope the M12 Stubby gives me 80% of what I need. I'm happy if that's true, and fine if it's more than 80%, too. I also got the M12 Fuel Surge 1/4" impact for light work and around-the-house stuff.

That said, I don't want to wind up in [A] breaking stuff (but my understanding is you can dial the gun down) and have a gap where the Stubby can't cut it and the M18 High won't fit.

I'm a DIY car guy, doing what I can on my daily and wife's Odyssey as well as two old BMW's, one very nice and one kinda crusty. I'm getting ready to do a lot of suspension work on the crusty one. I think the stubby and Surge will do all the non-automotive stuff I'll ever need.

The question: Should I return the M18 Fuel High and get the M18 Fuel Mid or should the combination two-impact kit cover me? (or, strictly speaking, three-impact kit)

Appreciate any insight y'all can offer!

Gratuitous shot:

That's the exact setup I have - 1/2" stubby (2555) and 1/2" high torque (2767). I've only had to use my high torque once, but I'm super glad I had it because that fastener broke two sockets before coming off. Everything else the stubby has handled. Plus, I don't consider the high torque to be THAT big. I've been able to fit it in some pretty tight spots.

 

[G_P]

I have the 3/8 version. It's my go to impact at work. I'm a landscape equipment mechanic and it even takes off blade bolts that were put on by air impacts. Occasionally I encounter a lug nut it won't remove, but it's rare.

Sent from my SM-T720 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Bighead38]

I have the 1/2” mid torque. If that doesn’t work I either add heat or get a breaker bar. I haven’t ran into anything the mid torque wouldn’t get off when the torch is used. Unfortunately you can’t use a torch everywhere so I have still needed a breaker bar in a few spots.

 

[M635_Guy]

Appreciate all the insight folks!!

If anyone has the high-torque and is regretting it, I'd be interested in hearing the story.

*edit* (in response to M635_guy)
That’s a tough one. I would go the other way and use the stubby and mid torque. Those are what I have and use 99% of the time DIYing the cars. The larger bolts typically only have 17-19mm heads (except the axles). I don’t have a high torque. The 2 times it might have come in handy, a breaker bar and cheater did what I needed. But one of those I wasn’t comfortable putting an impact on it, I wanted to “feel” what was happening to avoid rounding out a bolt and making a headache for myself. It’s very possible the mid torque would have done it.

My feeling is if the need presents itself I can get the high torque at any time. So far that hasn’t been the case and the lighter smaller mid torque is more nimble. If you were doing work on trucks with larger bolts and torque specs, I might swing the other way and get the high torque. But if it were me, I would take the same approach and use the mid torque for most of the work and add the high torque if the mid torque hits a wall too many times

It's funny, I've sorta talked myself into the opposite - since I got the high-torque for less-than-mid money, I can always grab the mid and not feel too bad about it in terms of $$.

I'm sorta hoping the Stubby is the workhorse...

I've been happy with my 3/8 M12 stubby doing a lot of work on an '89 325i. Works really well getting into tight places, I'm hoping to pull the exhaust manifolds this week. The top 6 nuts/studs came out easily with the M12, now I just need to get clever with extensions an swivel sockets to get the bottom 6 out. I wish I bought this gun sooner.

Yeah - I hope yours isn't as crusty as my E30 325iX is. It's a long story, but the car has come back to me after a number of years of neglect. It was a damn nice car when it left, and would have risen in value if not for the lack of care.

Just to share the misery, I heard the rear brakes making noise and wound up finding this:

So that was fun...

That's the exact setup I have - 1/2" stubby (2555) and 1/2" high torque (2767). I've only had to use my high torque once, but I'm super glad I had it because that fastener broke two sockets before coming off. Everything else the stubby has handled. Plus, I don't consider the high torque to be THAT big. I've been able to fit it in some pretty tight spots.

Thanks - glad to hear from someone running the same setup.

Amazing to hear you broke sockets though...

I've got the Sunex 43-piece metric set on the way...

I have the 3/8 version. It's my go to impact at work. I'm a landscape equipment mechanic and it even takes off blade bolts that were put on by air impacts. Occasionally I encounter a lug nut it won't remove, but it's rare.

This is a tangent, but I'm still conflicted/confused on socket sizes. I've got all 1/2" stuff for impacts, and a regular spread of 1/4"|3/8"|1/2" regular sockets from my ratchets (also a Sunex kit). I'm comfortable using the chrome bits on my 1/4" impact (M12 Surge) and my M12 Fuel 3/8" ratchet at 450 in-lb and 55 ft-lb respectively. I got the 1/2" Stubby specifically for the commonality and the reported extra grump-efficiency of the 1/2" anvil.

So I guess the question is am I missing anything without 3/8"?

I have the 1/2” mid torque. If that doesn’t work I either add heat or get a breaker bar. I haven’t ran into anything the mid torque wouldn’t get off when the torch is used. Unfortunately you can’t use a torch everywhere so I have still needed a breaker bar in a few spots.

I'm such a wuss - torches aren't my favorite. I do need to get a bigger breaker bar at some point...

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I think you'll like that combo. Especially on rusty cars, the higher torque can come in handy. I'm a southern boy, so I don't really know what rust is except when I look at my friends cars. The only car bolts I've ever broken were exhaust.

For the 1% of time the stubby is too weak and the high torque won't fit, there is always that breaker bar.

I'd recommend getting a bit more comfortable with the torch. It's not to make it easier on you, its to keep from breaking it. Just do keep a fire extinguisher handy.

 

[M635_Guy]

I'm a southern boy, so I don't really know what rust is except when I look at my friends cars

I'm in NC - lol. The western part of the state gave this car the clap

For the 1% of time the stubby is too weak and the high torque won't fit, there is always that breaker bar.

True.

I'd recommend getting a bit more comfortable with the torch. It's not to make it easier on you, its to keep from breaking it.

I'm a risk-averse pansy, which means I'd steer toward NOT breaking something by using heat. I'd just whine about it a lot.

Just do keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Sage advice

 

[allinon72]

Now what about this - friction ring or detent? The friction ring is readily available but I prefer the detent ball.

 

[M635_Guy]

Now what about this - friction ring or detent? The friction ring is readily available but I prefer the detent ball.

The research I did boiled down to this:

If you spend most of your time with the same socket on the impact, get the detent. If you switch sockets with any frequency, get the friction ring.

 

[Adderall]

The mid Torque has done almost everything I’ve asked of it so far on a 2007 Outlook, 94 Ranger, and 17 4Runner. For really stubborn stuff I have SK 30” and 36” breaker bars.

Sunex Impact sockets all the way.

 

[DFB]

Now what about this - friction ring or detent? The friction ring is readily available but I prefer the detent ball.

I have the ball pin on my 2655 1/2" compact.

For the most part its really no big deal to change sockets just keep a little screwdriver or small piece of metal rod on the tool cart or bench. Every now and then I can actually wiggle a few off even with using a tool.

I often carried it out to the field at the orchard farm especially for wagon flat tires and wheel changes, liked that the socket wouldn't fall off.

Though I do have the Hog Ring Mid Torque now I think still would buy a pin again if when the 55 goes

 

[paul.nmedia.net]

1. Friction ring. It is NOT a ball detent. It is more of a cylinder. They call it pin detent and they mean it. You have to force it to release with a screwdriver. It is intended for production (factory) applications where they don’t change sockets very often. I made that mistake and it’s a royal pain. Hog rings are always kind of wushu washy but so far the Milwaukee ones seem to hold up.
2. When metal corrodes it absorbs oxygen and so the resulting oxidized metal expands greatly, putting pressure on the metal on metal contact. In addition although contact science is not completely understood there is some cold welding (seizing up) that goes on so heating it up expands the metal to loosen things up and break the binding that happens. It’s not just about expansion rates. That’s also why smacking it good with a sledge hammer makes a difference too.
3. Our experience on my crew with the high torque impacts is an electric motor shop where we routinely deal with “jumbo” size fasteners in base bolts and couplings in the 1-2” range. We routinely work on 1000-3000 HP motors and every size below that. Lowes and HD are pretty limited in terms of tools for us. We used to have to heat it, tap on it with a sledge, and double wrench it sometimes and even then sometimes the only way to remove a bolt was to cut it off. It would be nice if everyone else got religious about MbS2 (never seez) but that doesn’t happen. The 1400 ft-lb impact is a god send. In that size range if it is possible to break it loose, this tool will do it. If not it often breaks the bolt in half and it comes out anyway, leaving the same cleanup as using a torch. It saves a lot of time either way.
4. Do NOT tighten at the highest setting on a torque wrench as a general rule. Well you can with the high torque since tightening is less than loosening torque. I prefer to hand tighten either way. It’s more reliable whether I use a torque wrench or not.
5. We have a “low”, mid (220 ft-lb), and high (1400/700) ft lb impacts. I’d like to use the mid for everything but it breaks small fasteners and strips out anything aluminum almost instantly so I keep the little one with 3/8 and 1:4, the bigger one up to 1-1:8, and the bad boy for anything above that size.

 

[Bighead38]

Now what about this - friction ring or detent? The friction ring is readily available but I prefer the detent ball.

Funny when I bought mine the local Home Depot’s only had pin detents. At first I wasn’t a big fan but it’s really grown on me. When doing lug nuts I line the socket up and use the pin detent. Doing stuff where I will need to swap sockets I just make sure the socket hole isn’t lined up and I can pull the socket off by hand.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Funny when I bought mine the local Home Depot’s only had pin detents. At first I wasn’t a big fan but it’s really grown on me. When doing lug nuts I line the socket up and use the pin detent. Doing stuff where I will need to swap sockets I just make sure the socket hole isn’t lined up and I can pull the socket off by hand.

I came here to day this but you beat me too it. It's growing on me as well. All the hog ring experience I've had is with worn out ones, and that's not much fun.

 

[DFB]

Milwaukee changed the pin part number several times over a few years and if you look up different tool parts diagrams there are a few different numbers on them. On the 2655B I had from more than 5 years ago the "B" stood for ball pin and the end of the pin is slightly tapered all the way around. And you really can wiggle an impact socket off now and then but with some effort. But seriously most of that depends on the individual socket itself and I do use a quick press of a tool more often than not.

There was three 1/2" compacts available then... one was friction ring and the other was a true pin with flat cut end.

Though I am not totally sure of this though I don't believe many of the pins varieties are of that straight flat cut now but most are some slight variation of the tapered ball pin.

Exploring Milwaukee's exploded tool diagrams can show the differences those willing to look.

Now this might be an old wive's tale but once heard a story in the past that someone put a chrome socket on the old style flat end cut pin...and well couldn't get it off

 

[bob from indiana]

I got a hi torque for Christmas. I played with it on my tractor last week. It is very big but easily loosened 30mm size nuts on the wheels of my 74 tractor. They have never been off. I look forward to trying the blades on my bush hog. My CP 734 wouldn't touch them. I may get a 18 volt compact for smaller jobs.

 

[_Riddle]

Appreciate all the insight folks!!


Yeah - I hope yours isn't as crusty as my E30 325iX is. It's a long story, but the car has come back to me after a number of years of neglect. It was a damn nice car when it left, and would have risen in value if not for the lack of care.

I got the manifolds off but had to cut one of the nuts off with a grinder. A few studs are still stuck in the head so I ordered an extractor from Amazon to try and get them out. It's going to be a great car when it's all finished but it's been sitting/rotting for 12 years so just about everything made of rubber needs replacement. There's a little bit of rust on the body (battery box, rocker panel) but it's not bad enough to make it a parts car. Plus it was free!

I'm going to attempt to get the brake calipers and rotors off this weekend and I will be impressed if the m12 stubby gets them off with the amount of rust. I broke a snap on socket trying to remove one of the front wheel lugs. I was disappointed when the mid torque wouldn't break it free but I'm guessing I put close to 1000 ft lbs on that breaker bar to get the lug off. This car is leaking so many different fluids that it's actually rust proofed a lot of the car... Those Germans are so forward thinking!

Anyway the m12 has been a work horse on this project so far. It zipped off all drive shaft nuts/bolt, all engine fasteners when I replaced the timing belt and water pump, and most of the wheel lugs. Very impressive. It also did extremely well with the exhaust manifold nuts. The Sunex 3351 with wobble sockets has been a life saver for a few bolts. Very impressed with the set especially for the ~$100 price tag.

What do you have planned for your 325iX? I was just on another forum and was shocked to hear what OEM front axles go for on those!

 

[kctyphoon]

Sometimes you just have to try things and figure it out for yourself. Otherwise you might find yourself stuck with something you really didnt want and everyone else’s opinions.

You might wanna think about a cheap set of swivel impacts, like sunex or even HF. That will help mitigate the size of the impact.

 

[M635_Guy]

I got the manifolds off but had to cut one of the nuts off with a grinder. A few studs are still stuck in the head so I ordered an extractor from Amazon to try and get them out. It's going to be a great car when it's all finished but it's been sitting/rotting for 12 years so just about everything made of rubber needs replacement. There's a little bit of rust on the body (battery box, rocker panel) but it's not bad enough to make it a parts car. Plus it was free!

Wow - I'd love to find a free E30 I could play with (and keep - this one has a story, but it's not going to stay...probably)

I'm going to attempt to get the brake calipers and rotors off this weekend and I will be impressed if the m12 stubby gets them off with the amount of rust. I broke a snap on socket trying to remove one of the front wheel lugs. I was disappointed when the mid torque wouldn't break it free but I'm guessing I put close to 1000 ft lbs on that breaker bar to get the lug off.

That's pretty scary. The wheel that had the stuck caliper (see rotor pic above) had lugs that required a giant breaker bar and some grump to get off. It was the spare, and there is some evidence the car was in some kind of wreck/incident (I'm thinking slid off the road) on that side. I guess AAA or whoever put the spare on was in a bad mood... I'd love to have had the high torque to see how it fared with it...

This car is leaking so many different fluids that it's actually rust proofed a lot of the car... Those Germans are so forward thinking!

I'm lucky (sorta). The car runs like a top and doesn't appear to be leaking much.

Anyway the m12 has been a work horse on this project so far. It zipped off all drive shaft nuts/bolt, all engine fasteners when I replaced the timing belt and water pump, and most of the wheel lugs. Very impressive. It also did extremely well with the exhaust manifold nuts. The Sunex 3351 with wobble sockets has been a life saver for a few bolts. Very impressed with the set especially for the ~$100 price tag.

What do you have planned for your 325iX? I was just on another forum and was shocked to hear what OEM front axles go for on those!

I'm probably grabbing the HF wobbles in the next day or three if they have them at my local store.

Most of the front of that car is unique to the iX - motor, motor mounts, struts, control arms, ball joints, etc. - all kinds of stuff. It didn't sell in high volumes here, so a lot of things (like ball joints) are NLA in the US.

I'm deciding whether to rebuild the axles - the CV joints seem good but the boots are torn. I'm thinking I could put new boots on and save some $$$ (the iX community does this routinely), but I haven't done that before and screwing it up would be pricey. I was hoping to save a few dollars and do the ball joints with parts from Europe, but the parts have been lost in customs and the guy sending them to me only insured for $50 - In the US your only option is to buy the whole control arm assembly with bushings for ~$750. Ouch. Not sure what I'm going to do on either of those at this point...

Overall I'm trying to do a minimum number of things to make it as desirable and roadworthy as I can, but its cosmetic issues will need a certain guy as a buyer.