Recently acquired this milwaukee mag drill with 3/4 chuck. Looking to use it for annular cutters but am unsure of which adapter I need. The 3/4 chuck attaches by a torx screw in the middle. Pics attached. Any ideas on what I need?
Milwaukee Mag drill
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neophyte
Well-known member
That appears to be a tapered arbor, but not sure what size.
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
The drill arbor is Morse taper #3 I have the same drill motor.
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
That is a different type of spindle? The taper should be #3 but the arbor is still in the drill?
This is what the spindle looks like on my drill. Unless that piece comes out you need an arbor made for that style of spindle.
This is what the spindle looks like on my drill. Unless that piece comes out you need an arbor made for that style of spindle.
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matt_i
Well-known member
I think you need this style of tang drive cutter, Milwaukee's own brand of "Steel Hawg" annular cutter.
www.milwaukeetool.com
13/16" Quick Change Tang Drive Steel Hawg™ Cutter
www.milwaukeetool.com
Looks like you need the Weldon adapter for 3/4" annular cutters
This would have been the OEM standard piece that came with the machine. Try looking up parts diagram for P#
Its basically a 3/4" Weldon style (not to be confused with something that gets "welded on") adapter, 2 flats with a torx set screw iirc
This would have been the OEM standard piece that came with the machine. Try looking up parts diagram for P#
Its basically a 3/4" Weldon style (not to be confused with something that gets "welded on") adapter, 2 flats with a torx set screw iirc
ttpete
Well-known member
That kinda looks like a Jacobs Taper.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
That is NOT a morse taper number 3 or a jacobs taper. That is a proprietary spindle that is not removeable. The chuck drives off of the flats, the shaft is not tapered and is just to locate the chuck radially. A jacobs taper would come loose if the spindle motor was reversed such as when tapping that these mag base models were intended for. I think the morse taper adapter shown by Steve in Socal is similar and a later style compared to the OP.
Milwaukee made several different style spindles for different applications.
The OP is drill motor's Illustrated parts list.
To use annular "Quick change" cutters on this motor you have to buy the 49-57-0032 adapter "Bottom half of first page"
And use the milwaukee quick change steel hawk cutters.
To use "threaded" annular cutters you need the 49-57-0030 adapter "bottom left of first page"
Caution, careful with the part numbers of the cutters, both threaded and quick change start with 49-57-****
I do not think it is possible to use the weldon shank annular cutters with that model of drill motor.
Milwaukee made several different style spindles for different applications.
The OP is drill motor's Illustrated parts list.
To use annular "Quick change" cutters on this motor you have to buy the 49-57-0032 adapter "Bottom half of first page"
And use the milwaukee quick change steel hawk cutters.
To use "threaded" annular cutters you need the 49-57-0030 adapter "bottom left of first page"
Caution, careful with the part numbers of the cutters, both threaded and quick change start with 49-57-****
I do not think it is possible to use the weldon shank annular cutters with that model of drill motor.
So if using 49-57-0032 does that piece go into the jacobs chuck? I don't see any other way to attach it
Firebrick43
Well-known member
No. As stated in the IPL that part is not illustrated. You remove the chuck by removing the screw inside and slide the adapter over the straight pilot making sure the "wings" slide over the flats above the pilot and reinstall the screw. The flats are what drive the adapter.
Damn, now I'm even MORE glad I bought a Hougen 917 (didn't think that was possible)
Got so spoiled NOT using a DP , for smaller than 7/16" holes I also got one of these
Thinking the OP might be better off putting that Milwaukee on CL and using the money for almost ANY brand of Weldon compatible mag drill... Steve
Got so spoiled NOT using a DP , for smaller than 7/16" holes I also got one of these
Thinking the OP might be better off putting that Milwaukee on CL and using the money for almost ANY brand of Weldon compatible mag drill... Steve
alex71
Well-known member
Wait, what? I have a milwaukee mag drill similar to the OP, but with morse taper. I have a JT chuck mounted on it. Lots of holes drilled and tapped with it. nothing coming loose.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I don't know what size taps your using but obviously on the small end. Get a 3/4-10 tap cranked down in the spindle enough to hold it and reverse it after going to far and pop comes the taper loose.Wait, what? I have a milwaukee mag drill similar to the OP, but with morse taper. I have a JT chuck mounted on it. Lots of holes drilled and tapped with it. nothing coming loose.
Just because it has not happened to you does not mean its doesn't happen?
Also, how are you taping with a keyless chuck? They loosen in reverse as well(the chuck that is).
alex71
Well-known member
i was using a 1/2-13 helicoil tap. no loosening... you can see the number of holes in the pic below.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Well, piss.
The drill motor is 4262-1 right?
That part number is the number given for that model of motor. I am at a loss as to weather that is a miss marked part, milwaukee screwed up the literature, or what???? I did find this literature which does show what you got but clearly states under it for a 4262-1??
4662-1 adapter chuck
Can you call milwaukee's technical line and ask. I have not used them in maybe 10 years(no need to) but they were quite good last I used them.
I am wondering now to, the mag drill that I have used with that motor extensively (previous employer so no access currently) was the annular cutter chuck one they had modified to work? They had a very extensive tool room with awesome tool makers(and two idiots). The mag drill had been around before I came so who knows. I know we were always begging for them to get a hougen as wrastling that milwaukee around in a man lift or some other odd place was hell due to the weight.
Also PM me and I will cover return shipping/fees as it was my advice you went on and I will take responsibility.
Wow are you kidding?? You've been nothing but helpful. I contacted their tech dept but they're off till Tuesday for training. I'll get back to them next week. Keep you guys updated. Thanks for your time regardless!!
Holy **** that set is cheaper than like one Jancy cutter. Are they any good?
quickfarms
Well-known member
"Holy **** that set is cheaper than like one Jancy cutter. Are they any good?"
They work pretty good, you can even get away with a hand drill if you have a steady hand - I found out they don't like being side loaded any more than the bigger annulars do. Also, the smaller sizes only cut 1/4" thick material til you get up in size where the cutter part is larger diameter than the end where the arbor screws into the rear of the cutter.
If you click on the second picture in that link, you'll see that the 9/16" cutter is the smallest that isn't "stepped" - so the larger sizes can cut at least 1/2" material. If you're cutting thicker than maybe 1/8" material tho, I would use either a DP or a mag drill with 3 jaw chuck so there's no chance of side loading. I try to ALWAYS use either a lube stick or cutting liquid on both the small kits like this AND with annular cutters - Probably why I have well over 100 holes on some of my cutters and they're still as fast cutting as ever.
I' ve found that actual annular (weldon shank) cutters from Evolution hold up really well for me, and they tend to be cheaper than some of the other name brands - they also come with a pilot and a handy screw top container, not all annulars include the pilot. The containers are all the same size (until the cutter is too big, then they go to a larger size container - this makes it easy to set up an "index" from scrap lumber, using forstner bits - HTH... Steve
BTW, when I bought my Blair kit it was cheaper (amazon) than the hougen which appears to come from the same factory - just now I see that the Hougen version is cheaper than the Blair by almost $10.
They work pretty good, you can even get away with a hand drill if you have a steady hand - I found out they don't like being side loaded any more than the bigger annulars do. Also, the smaller sizes only cut 1/4" thick material til you get up in size where the cutter part is larger diameter than the end where the arbor screws into the rear of the cutter.
If you click on the second picture in that link, you'll see that the 9/16" cutter is the smallest that isn't "stepped" - so the larger sizes can cut at least 1/2" material. If you're cutting thicker than maybe 1/8" material tho, I would use either a DP or a mag drill with 3 jaw chuck so there's no chance of side loading. I try to ALWAYS use either a lube stick or cutting liquid on both the small kits like this AND with annular cutters - Probably why I have well over 100 holes on some of my cutters and they're still as fast cutting as ever.
I' ve found that actual annular (weldon shank) cutters from Evolution hold up really well for me, and they tend to be cheaper than some of the other name brands - they also come with a pilot and a handy screw top container, not all annulars include the pilot. The containers are all the same size (until the cutter is too big, then they go to a larger size container - this makes it easy to set up an "index" from scrap lumber, using forstner bits - HTH... Steve
BTW, when I bought my Blair kit it was cheaper (amazon) than the hougen which appears to come from the same factory - just now I see that the Hougen version is cheaper than the Blair by almost $10.
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In that case, I stand by my comments in post# 15 - but if that isn't possible for your situation, here's a "bandaid" that will SORTA work
www.airgas.com
That adapter will mount standard 3/4" weldon cutters, depending on your "desperation level" - some caveats...
1 - for most things you do you'd need to come up with a "stand-off" that would elevate the drill motor (and be THICK enough NOT to weaken the magnet's pull - 3/4" thick is about minimum for good magnet strength, 1" is better. That STILL doesn't cover the DECREASED headroom the adapter itself causes.
BUT, due to the "chuck only" thing (ability to compensate for varying drill bit length) the height range could be fine (because annular cutters are generally SHORTER than jobber length drill bits)
2 - The adapter MIGHT increase wobble, NOT something annulars like
3 - The adapter does NOT cover "feed-thru" for cutting oil, so lube MUST be done manually (or you'll shorten tool life a LOT)
Those are the MAIN reasons NOT to go the adapter route; hence my "desperation" comment... Steve
Airgas - HOU11016 - Hougen® 2 1/16" X 1/2" Arbor Assembly
Arbor to Use Hougen Annular Cutters in a Drill Chuck
That adapter will mount standard 3/4" weldon cutters, depending on your "desperation level" - some caveats...
1 - for most things you do you'd need to come up with a "stand-off" that would elevate the drill motor (and be THICK enough NOT to weaken the magnet's pull - 3/4" thick is about minimum for good magnet strength, 1" is better. That STILL doesn't cover the DECREASED headroom the adapter itself causes.
BUT, due to the "chuck only" thing (ability to compensate for varying drill bit length) the height range could be fine (because annular cutters are generally SHORTER than jobber length drill bits)
2 - The adapter MIGHT increase wobble, NOT something annulars like
3 - The adapter does NOT cover "feed-thru" for cutting oil, so lube MUST be done manually (or you'll shorten tool life a LOT)
Those are the MAIN reasons NOT to go the adapter route; hence my "desperation" comment... Steve
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Yea looks like I'm gonna have to go down that road.In that case, I stand by my comments in post# 15 - but if that isn't possible for your situation, here's a "bandaid" that will SORTA work
Airgas - HOU11016 - Hougen® 2 1/16" X 1/2" Arbor Assembly
Arbor to Use Hougen Annular Cutters in a Drill Chuck
That adapter will mount standard 3/4" weldon cutters, depending on your "desperation level" - some caveats...
1 - for most things you do you'd need to come up with a "stand-off" that would elevate the drill motor (and be THICK enough NOT to weaken the magnet's pull - 3/4" thick is about minimum for good magnet strength, 1" is better. That STILL doesn't cover the DECREASED headroom the adapter itself causes.
BUT, due to the "chuck only" thing (ability to compensate for varying drill bit length) the height range could be fine (because annular cutters are generally SHORTER than jobber length drill bits)
2 - The adapter MIGHT increase wobble, NOT something annulars like
3 - The adapter does NOT cover "feed-thru" for cutting oil, so lube MUST be done manually (or you'll shorten tool life a LOT)
Those are the MAIN reasons NOT to go the adapter route; hence my "desperation" comment... Steve
Spoke with milwaukee tech again today. They recommended I call unitec first to see if they have a universal adapter for this type of drill. Second option is replace the current drill motor 4262-1 with 4292-1 and that'll accept weldon and morse taper chucks
Wonder what makes that one worth three TIMES as much as this
www.airgas.com
Airgas - HOU11016 - Hougen® 2 1/16" X 1/2" Arbor Assembly
Arbor to Use Hougen Annular Cutters in a Drill Chuck
So got the drill going and works wonderfully on regular mild steel. I've started doing layout on my welding table and was able to drill one hole with no issue. Can't drill anymore it sounds like the table is hardened steel. The bit is not dull because it will still cut mild steel with no issue. What can I be doing wrong or not seeing?
dutchgray
Well-known member
Get a carbide tipped annular cutter.
quickfarms
Well-known member
What size hole are you drilling?
is this an existing table? If so that area was probably hardened from welding
I drill a 1/4” pilot hole then switch to anular cutters, and I use lube on everything