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Milwaukee metal cutting saw

RivennHewn

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Anybody have any experience with these type saws?

I know milwaukee and makita make them, I've just never seen one in use.
 

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Ign

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Yep, they're ok. Just like everything else in this genre the blades are damn expensive and easy to screw up (chip a tooth) so I don't reco them for everyday use. But for cutting something like grating there's no other (worthwhile) option IMO.

Evolution offers several (almost too many) options but compare carefully to the Milwaukee. Generally the Evo's are more expensive and don't include a blade until you get into their fully loaded bad-boy top-end model. That may no longer be true. And I don't know what the Evo warranty is but of course new Milwaukee will be 5 years. Look around for recon Milwaukees, quite a bit cheaper if you're ok with the recon 1 year warranty. I've heard the motors do burn up in these but this type of saw is easy to mis-use; push too hard, crooked cut, bind the blade, incorrect blade depth etc. So I'd suspect most burnt motors are operator error.

I've also set mine to "slot" flat bar leaving approx 1/16" of material, then bend it there and weld the cut back up. Poor man's hydraulic press brake.

All in all great when you gotta have it, but not an everyday tool for me.
 

PCO6

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I have a Pro-Point which is a relatively inexpensive brand sold at Princess Auto. I think I paid about $150 for it on sale (vs. the regular price of about $250). It works great. I've cut up to 1/4" plate with it and have had no problems.

View media item 34368
 

firebox40dash5

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I cut up an old stepvan body with a regular circular saw and a ($50) Diablo metal blade last month. I always kinda wondered what the enclosed blade guard on metal saws was all about, but no more. Little aluminum daggers everywhere. I mean EVERYWHERE. I don't even know how they went flying in most of the directions they did.

In my experience, the softer/thinner the metal, the better a carbide does. I bought the higher tooth count Diablo blade, and even the 3/16" extruded ribs gave it a workout compared to just sheet.
 

neonnblack

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I cut up an old stepvan body with a regular circular saw and a ($50) Diablo metal blade last month. I always kinda wondered what the enclosed blade guard on metal saws was all about, but no more. Little aluminum daggers everywhere. I mean EVERYWHERE. I don't even know how they went flying in most of the directions they did.

In my experience, the softer/thinner the metal, the better a carbide does. I bought the higher tooth count Diablo blade, and even the 3/16" extruded ribs gave it a workout compared to just sheet.

Bahaha, i use a diablo steel demon in the skil wormdrive, and you are right, those little chips go absolutely everywhere. It cuts 18ga sheet like nothing is there, though. I dont see a need for a separate metal circ saw. UNless it is just that much better than using a different blade on the worm drive.
 

Jack Olsen

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Yeah, the poor man's option is to use an ordinary circular saw and a Diablo blade. I've chopped up loads of sheet, up to 12 gauge, without any issue. The saw was maybe $30.

This video shows me cutting 3/16" plate.

Lyon031262306512.jpg
 
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RivennHewn

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Placed an order at HD.

I've been walking around Homer's for a month with $400 worth of gift cards, and couldn't find anything I wanted/didn't already have.

I'll post up a good review.
 
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Milton Shaw

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They work great. Cuts a 2/4 steel about the same speed as a regular saw cuts a 2/4 wood. Get a long saw guide to help steady the cut and for sure get a long square for 45 cuts. Blades do get expensive but cutting that much steel with anything that fast is going to cost blades. Do remember to empty the chip guard before you put the saw up or they will be in everything that your stored it with. They catch 100% of the chips on solid stock but will fill the inside of hollow stock but even then they don't throw it at you. They are rated for 3/4 inch solid stock so they breeze through 14 gauge.
 

stock z/28

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Dec 17, 2006
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I have had one for about 6 years (?) and would be lost with out it. Its cut lots and lots of plate.

As far as blade life goes, in my opinion if you take it easy and don't force it, blades seem to last quite a while.

Just try and avoid any thing that's "hardened". Mild steel is usually no problem.

One thing that I wish it would do that it wont, is have the ability to tilt the blade. I think that would aid in cutting a "bevel" (?) for welding.


Over all its a very nice tool.

Oh and blades are usually an Ebay item at a good deal.

Jeff
 

sloppy

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Mar 3, 2013
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I just got a HF one on a open box deal.. And it seems pretty awesome when ripping threw sheet. I am impressed with its cutting ability.. The fit and finish on the saw is **** but mechanically it cuts good..

I was kinda of unsure on these saws, I am now hooked and can see a upgrade in the future..
 
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RivennHewn

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Finally got a chance to play with my new toy.

Set up a straight edge, and ripped some 1/8" steel.

Noise was about the same as a skilsaw.

The edge of the cut was straight, with only a slight burr. Easy to knock off with a file.

Overall, I'm loving it.

I've got a number of projects in mind for it. Now all I need is the time.
 

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KnurledNut

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We have one of these at work. I really like it. It uses the cermet blades which is different that most other steel cutting blades. Also these saws spin at a lower RPM than a circular saw, improving wear and production. Nice buy.
 

gus1962

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Dec 21, 2012
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Canton, Ohio
Congratulations on your new purchase. It's handy and small. I always wanted one for my small metal cutting job.
 

tarbellb

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So im on the fence between ordering a dedicated metal circular saw (Morse 7.25" blade model) or getting a Milwaukee worm drive circular saw and putting a metal blade in it.

Pros for Morse is a slightly slower 3300 RPM, purpose built?

Pros for Milwaukee is slightly cheaper by $25 and is a wormdrive= multi purpose and robust.

Any comments on why I should choose one or the other?

Typical use will be for 1/8"-1/2" carbon steel sheet cuts of 6"-48" lengths.
 

BD1

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RivennHewn

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Took my saw to the job site to make a few cuts.

We had some changes to some stone counter tops, and had to cut the plywood sub tops. There was some 1/4" plate under the sub tops to support a few spans that needed reinforcing.

Here's where things got interesting. In cutting the plywood and the metal in the same pass, the chip collector filled with sawdust and hot metal dust.

The saw dust caught fire and I had flames shooting out of the saw.

Luckily the fire was contained to the chip collector and didn't do any damage to the saw. The motor never got hot. The collector was too hot to touch.

Won't be cutting wood and metal together anymore!
 
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