milwaukee right angle drill chuck removal - sanity check!

[paulsomlo]

I recently got a like new milwaukee D-handle drill with the right angle attachment off of ebay.
I'm trying to remove the chuck from the right angle attachment so that I can change the speed, but it's giving me hell.

I removed the LH screw that retains the chuck, but now I need a sanity check; the chuck IS RH thread, yes? The stud on the end of the drill is RH, the chuck on my 1/2" hole shooter is RH, and the Milwaukee user's manual doesn't say anything to the contrary.

I've tried chucking a large allen key, holding the hex on the right angle attachment with an open end wrench, even using steel shims to take up the slop on the wrench to keep it from rounding over the hex on the right angle attachment. I've also tried chucking a large hex bit and using my IR mid-torque impact, no good. I tried two steel flats bearing on the nut, held in place with my shop press, a hardened steel bar where the chuck key goes, and a deadblow hammer, no good.

I've tried some Kroil, but I'm doubtful - this thing is pristine, doesn't have any corrosion on it.

If anybody's got some brilliance, send it along please. I'm about out of answers.

 

[6PTsocket]

I recently got a like new milwaukee D-handle drill with the right angle attachment off of ebay.
I'm trying to remove the chuck from the right angle attachment so that I can change the speed, but it's giving me hell.

I removed the LH screw that retains the chuck, but now I need a sanity check; the chuck IS RH thread, yes? The stud on the end of the drill is RH, the chuck on my 1/2" hole shooter is RH, and the Milwaukee user's manual doesn't say anything to the contrary.

I've tried chucking a large allen key, holding the hex on the right angle attachment with an open end wrench, even using steel shims to take up the slop on the wrench to keep it from rounding over the hex on the right angle attachment. I've also tried chucking a large hex bit and using my IR mid-torque impact, no good. I tried two steel flats bearing on the nut, held in place with my shop press, a hardened steel bar where the chuck key goes, and a deadblow hammer, no good.

I've tried some Kroil, but I'm doubtful - this thing is pristine, doesn't have any corrosion on it.

If anybody's got some brilliance, send it along please. I'm about out of answers.

The usual method is to strike the hex key with a hammer rather than trying to turn it off. Holding the shaft is a plus. Plan B, the hex bit and impact wrench has never failed me. I would use the shortest, fattest hex bit that fits in the chuck. Maybe you need a more powerful impact wrench. You are right, the chuck should screw off CCW. I can only think of one other possibility. In the past, Milwaukee has used a tapered spindle, like a drill press, instead of a thread, on some of their hand drills. But that should not require a left hand screw, as the taper is omni directional. I guess it is possible to have a taper and a LH screw, as a back up. There should be a parts breakdown picture for your adapter. It should show what the end of the spindle looks like, threaded or tapered, even if it is a rough drawing. If it is a taper you need a pair of wedges to pop it off.

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[paulsomlo]

Got it off!

The usual method is to strike the hex key with a hammer rather than trying to turn it off. Holding the shaft is a plus.

Already tried that - in this case, holding the shaft was a necessity, as Milwaukee advises removal of the right angle attachment before removing the chuck. In the end, what worked was a hex bit in the chuck with a 1/2" breaker bar on it, and a wrench on the shaft. I put the right angle attachment in a soft jaw vise and let the wrench rest against my body. I'm surprised that impacting didn't work. I could have used a larger impact, the big IR cordless, but I was apprehensive about ruining the chuck. In the end, slow and steady did it - I didn't even realize that it had broken loose; I thought the open end wrench has slipped.