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Mineral Spirits or Acetone

PearlWhiteGT

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Which is best to use on metal surface before applying some Corroseal Rust Inhibitor? Working on a road feeder that was given to me and I already removed all the lose rust off with a wire brush and plan on applying the corroseal but not sure what to use to clean the surface with before applying it. There is some sticky stuff on there from the decal I had to remove that I plan on using some goof off on. I will follow up with primer and paint.
 
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There's a lot of debate over which is best before painting.

I still use Acetone for most general, raw steel cleaning, de-greasing, etc.

Been using the denatured mostly for pre-paint prep. I fabricated a steel project where I removed all the mill scale and the acid (faux patina) products manufacturer recommended using denatured alcohol prior to applying the chemical. They claim that Acetone left a film?

Anyway, I just got into the habit of using it before priming, painting, etc. Haven't noticed anything different on application. How it aids or affects primer and paint adhesion? l don't know yet.
 

glentre

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Gloucester, Virginia
Talked to an auto paint shop guy who said the best thing to use is soap and water. He feels the solvents still leave a film of oil or grease after they dissolve it. He likely meant to use solvents first to get the major grease and crud off and follow up with soap and water. Anybody else get this kind of advice? I haven't tried it yet.

Glen
 
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PearlWhiteGT

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I sprayed some WD-40 on the hinges and there was a bit of run off so want to make sure I get off all the oil, dirt, grime and adhesive before I apply the corroseal rust inhibitor.
 
Joined
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AZ
Talked to an auto paint shop guy who said the best thing to use is soap and water. He feels the solvents still leave a film of oil or grease after they dissolve it. He likely meant to use solvents first to get the major grease and crud off and follow up with soap and water. Anybody else get this kind of advice? I haven't tried it yet.

Glen

If I used soap and water on raw steel, stripped of mill scale and sanded, it would start rusting immediately. Would need to prime or paint ASAP.
 

Cahark

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Dayton,Oh
I’m no pro, but I use mineral spirits first to wipe everything down. It doesn’t evaporate as fast so it gives me some time to wipe out the corners, and it is a workhorse for removing heavy oil and grease deposits.

After mineral spirits, I do a final wipe down with acetone.

Works well for me, but I don’t paint for a living.


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EOC_Jason

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^^^ I'm kind of the same school of thought...

I use mineral spirits for less aggressive cleaning and for its slower evaporation rate...

I use acetone for quick & final cleaning because (IMO) it doesn't leave a residue, evaporates fast, and is quite aggressive at cleaning. It will remove paint and other residue that mineral spirits won't...

I'll be honest I haven't used denatured alcohol all that much so I can't really say where it fits in with the equation, though all it really is is a high proof alcohol with some checmical added to prevent you from drinking it...

If acetone doesn't clean off what I need then you jump up to MEK...

I would never use soap & water to clean a bare metal item for final prep. Not only would it rust but if it's cast then water will seep into the pores and you have to get all that good and dry before wanting to paint...
 

Lelandwelds

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Talked to an auto paint shop guy who said the best thing to use is soap and water. He feels the solvents still leave a film of oil or grease after they dissolve it. He likely meant to use solvents first to get the major grease and crud off and follow up with soap and water. Anybody else get this kind of advice? I haven't tried it yet.

Glen

I sprayed some WD-40 on the hinges and there was a bit of run off so want to make sure I get off all the oil, dirt, grime and adhesive before I apply the corroseal rust inhibitor.

I use Dawn or Simple Green until clean. Then I wipe with a solvent. Sometimes I add d-limonene or a pressure washer to the mix.

Some rust converters leave white stains if water is present in the first 24 hours. Slight petroleum residue just seems to keep product away from the surface and slows the reaction.
 
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38Chevy454

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Acetone is a much stronger solvent. It also evaporates very quickly. The problem is you have a rag soaked with acetone, wipe the surface to remove the residue. The rag then has the diluted residue which can be spread very thin back onto the surface. So the proper way is to use the rag for cleaning that has acetone, followed immediately with another rag to catch any of that acetone left behind. The second rag can also have some acetone on it to help clean that very thin film.

Alcohol is nice because it will flash dry quickly without rusting when compared to soap and water, but for that matter so does acetone. Alcohol removes any of the water, whereas acetone does not mix with water.

Mineral spirits is a less aggressive solvent and would also have the same residue problem as acetone when you wipe a surface.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Talked to an auto paint shop guy who said the best thing to use is soap and water. He feels the solvents still leave a film of oil or grease after they dissolve it. He likely meant to use solvents first to get the major grease and crud off and follow up with soap and water. Anybody else get this kind of advice? I haven't tried it yet.

Glen

I wouldn't take your car to that shop for paint unless you like fish eyes in your paint. Soap leaves a film. A PROPER degreaser, like Dupont Prepsol, will not.

Tommy
 

EricP

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Alabama
There isn't a single solvent best for all jobs. I find some work better than others. VM&P Naphtha is excellent at removing oils and waxes off surfaces before painting. Mineral spirits is good with sticky labels. Acetone dissolves old hardened paint. Alcohol breaks down shellac. The list goes on. I keep a cabinet stocked of solvents and will test them to see what works best.
 

pcmeiners

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I’m no pro, but I use mineral spirits first to wipe everything down. It doesn’t evaporate as fast so it gives me some time to wipe out the corners, and it is a workhorse for removing heavy oil and grease deposits.

After mineral spirits, I do a final wipe down with acetone.

I do the same, mineral spirits is cheaper then acetone for the first wipe down, acetone for the finish.
Ps. due to the fact our bodies produce acetone, it is one of the safest solvents.

"Alcohol removes any of the water, whereas acetone does not mix with water."
Either will cause condensation, due to the cooling during evaporation under the right conditions.
 
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PearlWhiteGT

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Corroseal recommends using a water based cleaner. Also states for surface preparation, DO NOT use Acetone or Mineral Spirits.
 
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gahrajmahal

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I'm with LS6Tommy, I once had a paint job peal off like a decal because the solvent I wiped it down with melted the sand scratches from scuffing. The DuPont paint rep was pretty good about it and replaced the paint for me, but I had to strip it down and start over. For me it is soap and water, Dawn or simple green, prep sol or whatever wax and grease remover, then do all grind, sand whatever. Prep sol again before epoxy prime and finish coat. If using a spray bomb on furnace duct or other home job I might use laquer thinner as a solvent. Works great on adhesive softening and removal.
 
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