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Mini Dump Truck Build

dozerbuilder01

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Far Northwest Burbs of Chicago
I guess it's that time to start a new thread. I've shared the idea in my last build thread

DT2%20copy_zpsgw0tyysg.jpg


This one is probably going to move a little slower than the last one now that there are two little boys running around the house.

I still have some design work to do but I can only get so far until I start buying parts so I can model them properly.

First up? Some axles. One is a GM 14 bolt full float axle and the other is from a 2wd S10. I have a plan to graft them together and will show more detail soon.

IMG_6854_zpsvyrm3hrl.jpg


With this build, I may tend to post more details on my webpage (seen here). I've found that it lets me organize the build a little better and index the different stages. However, I won't forget about you all here and I will continue to update you all as the build moves forward.
 
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Gear Wolf

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Feb 25, 2015
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I just read the bulldozer thread in its entirety! I'm looking forward to reading about this!
 
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dozerbuilder01

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Thanks guys. Still probably a few weeks before I can start making sparks or chips in the garage. I have a pretty good idea how I'm going to meld the two axles together. In the end, it should look like this.

Rear%20Axle%209-3_zpswjpgmofk.jpg


The center section, axle shafts and a few inches of tube will come from the S10. The spindles (and a portion of the tube) and the hubs will come from the 14 bolt.

You can read more details here. http://www.minidozerbuild.com/p/rear-axle.html
 

Mr.N

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Dozer,

I know you've a lot of time and effort into the custom axle, but I'd suggest you reconsider. The S10 axle has a very small ring gear and it looks like your thinking was to use it for the width, however it's too wide.

I suggest you just shortening the 14B. It will save you time, increasing safety and increase your payload.
Plus the larger pumpkin matches the look better.


Also since your building a custom axle, look into off setting the pumpkin so you've same length axle shafts, easier replacement.
also look into cutting and welding the axle shaft to shorten them, can alway buy custom latter.


Good luck!
 
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emtmark

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
20
I second the narrowing of the 14 bolt. Lots of off-road shops are fAmiliar with the process also the deeper gears will help with your speed requirements, slow :)


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xtremek

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St. Johns, Mi
Strange and Moser will shorten your axles or make you new ones. I worked in a Hot Rod shop and we narrowed rear ends all the time. Pull the axles, cut the tubes in half, remove the required amount, reweld the flanges back on. Easy, peasy. That being said, I'm sure whatever way you go, it'll turn out fine. Anyway, I'm glad I found this thread, your last one was incredible. Count me in for the follow along.
 

vintagespeed1956

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Dec 24, 2014
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RanchoCucamonger, CA
yeah, the 14B is a great axle; heavy, large R&P, FF, easy disc brake swap and plentiful. you can also flip it for ground clearance.

you'll just need to spline one end of each shaft which you'd have to do anyway to adapt to that flimsy 10bolt.

subscribed.

edit: i read your plans on your website & have a couple more ideas for you to ponder.

" Purchase H1 hummer wheels. They are 16.5" rims with an 8 lug 6.5" bolt pattern. So far it looks like it may work. I would just need 1" spacers and I would run a long bolt thru the whole setup. They are a two piece wheel so they have all the extra hardware to hold them together. Not sure I like that look."

Humvee wheels are lug-centric so you'll need studs to hold them in place. spacers & thru bolts aren't going to work unless you re-center them. you can make a light-weight internal bead lock for them though from a large piece of PVC properly machined. the magnesium internal beadlocks are heavy and expensive if you dont get them with the wheels. i bought a full set of HMMWV wheels without locks for less than 2 wheels with locks would've cost. then i just ordered PVC inserts & new o-rings. worked well.
 
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rsanter

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visalia ca
Wouldn't it be more logical to build the back hoe or front end loader first?
You need to have a way to fill the dump truck first
Besides think how fun it will be for the boys to dig holes in the yard

Bob
 
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dozerbuilder01

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Far Northwest Burbs of Chicago
I'll try to answer most questions about my axle choice. Where to start...

Just like the dozer, I have to be realistic with what I intend to use this for. The dozer was never meant to dig or do heavy work. The snow plowing and moving loose dirt was an added bonus but it mainly was just something fun for my sons to ride on and take to tractor shows. As mentioned in my last thread, I live on a 1/4 acre lot in suburbia. I'm not building highways.

There are two main issues with using a complete 14 bolt, even if it's narrowed. First, it's ridiculously heavy. Just the tires and wheels alone are going to make up about 700lbs of this build. I don't want this thing to weigh more than 2,000lbs. Second, the center section is so wide, after I narrow it to what I need, it's likely I won't have any tube area left to mount it to the suspension.

The 14 bolt had a 8,600lb GAWR and a towing capacity something past 10,000lbs. I just don't need that. Is the S10 ring gear weaker than the 14bolt? Of course. But I'm probably going to have an engine in the mid 20hp range. I don't see how I'd break a ring gear with that.

As for having shops narrow axle housings and cutting shafts, you guys know me. I like a challenge. I learned a lot on the dozer build by trying things myself.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all of the feedback. I'm figuring this out while I go. One of the best pieces of advice I got on the dozer was when someone told me I should put springs on the plow for when I'm pushing snow. I never plowed snow before. Would have never thought of it. And I'm glad I added them. So keep it coming. I have a lot of work to do and a lot of things to figure out.

Here's what it will look like with the tires on.
Rear%20Axle%209-2_zpsxjg6ohdv.jpg
 
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dozerbuilder01

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Wouldn't it be more logical to build the back hoe or front end loader first?
You need to have a way to fill the dump truck first
Besides think how fun it will be for the boys to dig holes in the yard

Bob

I built a hydraulic driven, 950lb dozer for my first son and am now attempting to build a 1/4 scale, roughly 1 ton dump truck for my second. Logical really isn't in my vocabulary.

I have gotten that question a lot. I liked dozers, so I built one. I like mining trucks, so I'm building one. It is out of order but that's fine. I don't really have a method to my madness. Front end loader will be next if my boys want to help.

Ryan
 
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dozerbuilder01

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Humvee wheels are lug-centric so you'll need studs to hold them in place. spacers & thru bolts aren't going to work unless you re-center them. you can make a light-weight internal bead lock for them though from a large piece of PVC properly machined. the magnesium internal beadlocks are heavy and expensive if you dont get them with the wheels. i bought a full set of HMMWV wheels without locks for less than 2 wheels with locks would've cost. then i just ordered PVC inserts & new o-rings. worked well.

I did not know that. I guess it's good that I bought two to start. They'll be here Monday. I was mainly sold on price ($25 a piece) and the fact that it's a two piece wheel so I can hopefully mount my own tires which came in today. I was already thinking that since I'm flipping them around, I would have to do something to the center section.

I bought 2 wheels and tires just to have. I can't ever trust online dimensions. I've been burned before. So now I can make sure my cad model is correct. I did the same thing with the dozer and bought tracks very early on.

IMG_6935_zpsy4txw6y1.jpg


Ryan
 

srmofo

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SW ohio
Just like the dozer, I have to be realistic with what I intend to use this for.

This is one of the most difficult things members here struggle with. If you listened to every piece of advice received you would end up with a full scale truck before you know it, and made of top quality, best of the best components to boot.

Its important to keep things in perspective especially when tackling such a unique project. Staying grounded keeps the project on track and prevents being overwhelmed both physical and financially.
 

mrolds88

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Feb 17, 2010
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WV
Hummer wheels are 16.5". I assume the tires are for 16.5 wheels.

Missed the part about the Hummer wheels. Yes the early Hummer wheels were 16.5's. If it were me, I would re-center those with centers from 16.6 dually wheels. That would negate spacers and such. Those dually wheels are out there still.
 
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dozerbuilder01

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This is one of the most difficult things members here struggle with. If you listened to every piece of advice received you would end up with a full scale truck before you know it, and made of top quality, best of the best components to boot.

Its important to keep things in perspective especially when tackling such a unique project. Staying grounded keeps the project on track and prevents being overwhelmed both physical and financially.

I agree. I do appreciate the comments. Some have them have proven to be useful. I already go over board as it is. This project is will be no exception. But I do have to come back down to earth every once in a while.
 
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dozerbuilder01

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Missed the part about the Hummer wheels. Yes the early Hummer wheels were 16.5's. If it were me, I would re-center those with centers from 16.6 dually wheels. That would negate spacers and such. Those dually wheels are out there still.

That's not a bad idea. May have to make a trip to the junk yard and see what I can find. I do like having the split rim because I can take the tire on and off by myself. That will be helpful throughout this build and when I go to paint.

I did get one mounted and inflated so I can take measurements and get back in the CAD model.

IMG_6945_zps3zyvkn8l.jpg


Ryan
 

mrolds88

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WV
Trim the centers somewhere around the "hubcap lip" and it should give you easy access to the dually centers.
 

aggie91

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Oct 1, 2012
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Longview, TX
This sounds like a cool project. I work for Joy Global where we build the worlds largest wheel driven loader. Our facility built large haul trucks back in the mid 90's.

I think a scaled down loader would be a cool project..
 

Mr.N

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I'm not sure the hummer rims were the best solution for your application.
Yes, they were cheap. However the dual rim wasn't designed to take extreme weight. Yeah it just a toy but have you done the math on how much weight the box could hold?
Plus the Hummer rims are hard to keep sealed. If they are holding fine now wait until you get a loaded box sitting over night.
If you do loss air pressure the run flats may make you miss it and they will damage the tire when driven on.

Rather than spend the time cutting and welding dually centers, just get some dually rims. Buy a tire spoon from harbor freight and mount them yourself, once you get it down it will take less time than tightening all those hummer nuts.
 
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