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Mini Lathe and Mill - Practical?

Sr. WiNdTeCh

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Apr 15, 2011
Messages
241
I've always wanted a mini lathe and a mini mill, I just came across this -
334969_lg.jpg

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200418481_200418481

It's pretty neat and would probably be big enough for me, atleast for now. I've seen some mini lathes thrown in some other threads but search didn't bring up any thread for just mini lathes, so I'll start this one :beer:

Some questions for you experienced folks:

1. What projects do you find yourself doing on a mini lathe or mill?
2. What brand did you buy and why?
3. Do you find that you wish you had a bigger mill or lathe?
4. Do you think the combo deal is a good idea, or would it be better to have them separate?
5. Has anyone used a normal drill press with one of those milling vises and had it actually work good?
 
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larry_g

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oregon
Search out 3 in 1 machines and you should find lots of information on those tools. I owned one for awhile and sent it down the road. The one I owned was a Swiss EMCO brand not an asian machine. It takes a lot of time to get things set up from lathe to mill and then the milling is wimpy at best. I would not recommend one unless your strictly playing and making small parts.

3. Do you find that you wish you had a bigger mill or lathe?
I have bigger machines and thought that the 3n1 might be suitable for small work but to much fiddlin arroung

4. Do you think the combo deal is a good idea, or would it be better to have them separate?
That combo is not a good idea if you plan to move on to real machines. It has an MT3 in the mills spindle that means you will have to retool for a better machine, typically R-8


5. Has anyone used a normal drill press with one of those milling vises and had it actually work good?
A drill press is not made for milling. The taper on the chuck will disengage with side load. A mill will have a drawbar to pull in and retain the tooling. What you are calling a milling vise is just for positioning the work under the spindle and then moving a measured amount to drill more holes in a measured pattern.




lg
no neat sig line
 
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bamackc

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Feb 2, 2011
Messages
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I have a buddy that has something similar to that and he uses it to make body jewelry. It's just a hobby to him but he can make some really nice pieces that could fetch some cash if he ever tried to step up production and sell them.

2rz5r8y.jpg


He made that piece for me. Give you some idea of what can be done.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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Spokane, WA
1. What projects do you find yourself doing on a mini lathe or mill?
None - in the end, it was always a frustration. Yes, I've seen good work done on one. The process is painfully slow - we used to say, "like a cat eatin' a grindstone."
2. What brand did you buy and why?
Enco - seemed like a good idea at the time.
3. Do you find that you wish you had a bigger mill or lathe?
Yes, the first and every time I used it.
4. Do you think the combo deal is a good idea, or would it be better to have them separate?
No, I wouldn't have another mini mill/lathe as a gift.
5. Has anyone used a normal drill press with one of those milling vises and had it actually work good?
No, drill press bearings and Jacobs chucks are not designed for side thrust. Trying to use a DP as a mill is a sure way to ruin the workpiece and injure yourself. BTDT.

Bottom line - buy a real knee mill. The Clausing or Millrite are the best small mills out there. With enough searching, they can come in under $1000. Get one completely tooled. It is always less expensive to buy a machine with tooling than to buy it separately.

jack vines
 

Steve from Socal

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Hutchinson Ks.
Larry had the highest of quality 3in1 and offered good advice. If you live in an apartment and want to build model engines or other small parts you can. The machine is a compromise in every aspect; it is neither a rigid mill or sturdy lathe.

If at all possible buy dedicated machines, the brands and models are too numerous to get into. My own personal opinion is to buy American, European or Japanese machines. Chances are you will buy twice or more machine used than anything new short of spending tens of thousands. Many machines of small size are European and several have cult followings, go up in physical size just a bit and the options grow immensely.

Drill presses are designed to drill holes; the taper on the spindle of a drill press is not suitable for milling or side loading. The quill or spindle it self is not rigid enough and while some people do it, it is an accident and possible injury waiting to happen.

Steve
 

A_Pmech

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IL
In this economy, $1,500 will buy a Bridgeport or small universal mill in decent shape if you keep your eyes peeled.

:thumbup:
 

Beaumont67

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St. Thomas, Ontario
I have a friend that bought a used mini lathe/mill combo - and loves it.
He is a retired welder, and makes "dog agility" (training & competition) equipment.
- so he uses the MINI. to make black nylon hinge pieces, for the stuff he welds up & sells

------------------------------------------------
Beaumont { :>)) www.petperfectexpress.com
1965 Malibu S/S, 1966 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont Custom, 1967 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont 396-350HP Sport Deluxe M21-411's - SOLD 1970 Judge
 

king nero

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Belgium
http://www.mini-lathe.com/

check this website, lots of practical info.

Be warned though, when you start with one of those, you'll get to know the ropes after a while, and start making bigger things.
Eventually you'll step up to the rear-sized machinery. Been there, done that.
Bought a celtic lathe and deckel mill. I still have the mini machines, but I don't use them anymore.
 

GSteg

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Earth
In this economy, $1,500 will buy a Bridgeport or small universal mill in decent shape if you keep your eyes peeled.

:thumbup:

I second Bridgeport. Been using their mills lately and they're just fantastic to use. I've also used a crappy Chinese mill that ruined my parts. Every time I plunged the drill bit down into my workpiece, the part moves tenths of an inch. :headscrat
 
OP
S

Sr. WiNdTeCh

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Messages
241
In this economy, $1,500 will buy a Bridgeport or small universal mill in decent shape if you keep your eyes peeled.

:thumbup:My eyes have been peeled, but without 3 phase it's hard to find something, and to get a phase converter wouldn't be the cheapest...

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

check this website, lots of practical info.

Be warned though, when you start with one of those, you'll get to know the ropes after a while, and start making bigger things.
Eventually you'll step up to the rear-sized machinery. Been there, done that.
Bought a celtic lathe and deckel mill. I still have the mini machines, but I don't use them anymore.So... you want to sell them?

keep in mind that you will be limited to small projects only, does that work for you?

bobI really don't know, I mean I have no real reason to have one at this time, reason being I want a small one, to see if I could actually use one, I have tools that I use once every 2 years, but atleast I have it, i hate borrowing tools...


I thank all the good posts here, I will do a little more research now that I know not to waste my time with a combo machine, which I assumed was garbage but you never know sometimes. I have a mini drill press and always finding my self needing a larger one, so maybe that's the way it is with everything?

Thanks again! :beer:
 
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Steve from Socal

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You can build a rotary phase converter or use an inverter VFD for around 200.00 If you have 240 single phase you will have no problem. There are some lathes with DC drives that are single phase as well. How much room you have for machinery and how much you are willing to travel or ship it has a big bearing on availability.

Steve
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
if the lathe you get is smaller than a 6'' I think it is only usefull for doing small stuff and not 'general purpose'

bob
 

sprkt01

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Jan 2, 2011
Messages
21
You wont regret the bigger equipment if you have the room. With the economy the way it is the bigger stuff is usually cheaper. If you have three phase dirt cheap. I have a bridgeport and a lathe cant live without them, opens up the possibilities.
 

cheap bastard

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Apr 3, 2006
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I have a Smithy 3 in 1 and it works well for making small parts and repairing hard to find parts or something I'm just too damn cheap to buy. They are light weight machinery, so if that will cover a majority of your needs, they can be found used fairly cheap. I picked mine up at a local used tool dealer that took it in on consignment.
 

king nero

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http://www.mini-lathe.com/

check this website, lots of practical info.

Be warned though, when you start with one of those, you'll get to know the ropes after a while, and start making bigger things.
Eventually you'll step up to the rear-sized machinery. Been there, done that.
Bought a celtic lathe and deckel mill. I still have the mini machines, but I don't use them anymore.
So... you want to sell them?

That should be real-sized,

and I doubt shipping from belgium would be cheaper than finding something local...

But anyway, I probably wouldn't sell 'em, I've had them for quite some years now, and now and then they come in handy...
The mini-mill (which weighs in at over 600 pounds) is a very good drill, and has thread cutting tools (or tap holders, or whatever it's called over there) which I don't have on the large machine. So yes, i still use it, however not very often anymore.
 

IndyGarage

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Indy
I have a smithy, which looks just like that Shop Fox, that I bought about 12 years ago in the parking lot of a local hotel at a "truckload sale".

It works well for odds and ends in the garage, and doesn't take up much space. I've milled a few pieces with it from time to time - the table travel is pretty limited - but it's best for one-offs or modifications to things.

The Lathe part works better than the mill - mostly because the access and site lines are better, and the capacity is more in line with a standard lathe.

Amazingly, I can hold .0005 or 5/10,000's of an inch with it on the lathe if I'm really, really careful. Over the weekend I made a shaft for my wheel balancer that will hold motorcycle tires - I made a 13 inch long steel shaft, two aluminum taper spacers and a long clamping bolt. I turned three different sizes of threads and I drilled a 3/8 through hole the length of the shaft. I held the OD of the shaft that mates to the machine to less than 1/2 thousandth. I haven't used shaft yet, but the fit is perfect.

Here are the downsides:

1. Everything needs to be oiled, adjusted and honed when it comes from the factory. Plan on spending a day taking the whole thing apart and fine tuning every moving part. On mine the motor shaft actually contacted the guard and made a terrible racket until I corrected it. I seem to recall something that was assembled backward, and the tailstock was set up wrong from the factory.

2. The motor on mine was total junk. It vibrated, it had no power and it was noisy. When it quit, I took it apart, and, although it seemed like a good design, the internal wiring seemed way too light for the motor. .

3. Both the motor drive belt tensioning system and the idler belt tensioner is a kludge - I have never replaced them, but it's just a stupid design. The drive belt slips or must be adjusted often.

4. Many of the plastic handles have broken over the years - just plain cheap plastic. Even the bolts and screws they use to put the thing together seem cheap. I've replaced quite a few of them.

5. It's very slow to work with. Like any universal machine you are constantly setting it up and tearing it down, and there's nothing quick about setting it up. For example, to cut threads, you've got to figure out which gears you need, find them (the markings are terrible from the factory) pop off the e-clips, pull off the old gears, readjust the shafts, put on the correct gears, adjust all the shafts, and lock them tight, then check the thread cut. That can take 1/2 hour for a single thread cut. It's also not very powerful - so you are forced to take very light cuts, which is slow if you are cutting very much material off. And periodically I oil and then readjust all the gibs on the machine.

All that sounds pretty bad, but I'm not one to recommend the "industrial machine" in every situation. An industrial machine works great, but generally a homeowner is buying a well-used one to make it affodable. When they are tuned up and ready to go they are a joy to use, but they are more expensive, tooling can be very expensive, and if something goes wrong, it may or may not be a "fix it yourself" proposition. Those all-in-ones are relatively simple, the accessories and tooling are relatively cheap, and with care, they can make good parts, however you are usually trading your time for convenience.

I liken it to working with an old-fashion ratchet rather than an impact gun. They both will get the job done to the same quality level in the long run, but one is much quicker and easier to use.

If I were buying, I'd find a good used one with lots of tooling.
 
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justanengineer

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Apr 5, 2011
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Motor City
I have about 1/3 of the cost of that machine in my Clausing lathe and Bridgeport combined. The realistic resale of that machine is several hundred. The realistic resale of my two machines together are several thousand. Hunt around for a deal on used equipment and dont settle for little toys.
 

Steve from Socal

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Amazingly, I can hold .0005 or 5/10,000's of an inch with it on the lathe if I'm really, really careful. Over the weekend I made a shaft for my wheel balancer that will hold motorcycle tires - I made a 13 inch long steel shaft, two aluminum taper spacers and a long clamping bolt. I turned three different sizes of threads and I drilled a 3/8 through hole the length of the shaft. I held the OD of the shaft that mates to the machine to less than 1/2 thousandth. I haven't used shaft yet, but the fit is perfect.


You drilled a 3/8 hole through a 13 inch shaft and it is within 5 tenths on a 3in1 machine?

Your hired

Steve
 

jdub63

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Jan 28, 2008
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Azle, Texas
I agree with those that say buy used full size, but the transport, setup and space required seems overwhelming. I've been looking at a Shopmaster/shoptask Patriot, I got on their mailing list and they have some good deals every once in a while. It's easily converted to CNC for after you learn the manual process.

http://www.shoptask.com/
 

IndyGarage

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You drilled a 3/8 hole through a 13 inch shaft and it is within 5 tenths on a 3in1 machine?

Your hired

Steve

No the 3/8 hole is just drilled with a long drill bit - because a long lockbolt goes through it with loose fit - but the OD is that close - especially where it slip fits into the shaft on my balancer - That part is only .9 inches long, but it's pretty close to the original shaft's .7495 in diameter - I mic'd it at .7494.

You wouldn't want to hire me to do machine work - I'm way too slow.

I did use the balance shaft tonight and it worked perfectly. I even calibrated the machine and it came out dead nuts.

I have a Monarch 10EE that I just got back together a week ago. I gotta order some tooling for it. That job would have been 3x as fast on the Monarch.
 
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