Mini Split - 110V or 220V?

[ps2cho]

I want to buy a mini split to cool a single room in the house that is always too hot.

I’m decent with AC from automotive but no experience with electrical.

Can I purchase a 9000btu in 110v and simply plug it into the outside wall outlet or am I missing anything? It appears max load is under the 15a breaker for that outlet.

Is there any downside doing it this way rather than going 220v (which would require more electrical work and have to hire someone)

There’s a good Memorial Day sale that ends today so I sort of want to buy either the 110v or 220v before it’s over and I’ll figure out the rest of the items later

Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[evildky]

I don't have mush experience wiht mini-splits but I have one in a rental. The Inside unit is 110, the outside unit is 220v. I suspect like window units that once you crest a certain size 220 become a must. but keep in mind that the inside unit will likely always be 110 as its just powering the blower and the controls. the outside unit is where the compressor lives and might have some 110 units available just know you'll need a power source at both ends.

 

[ps2cho]

I don't have mush experience wiht mini-splits but I have one in a rental. The Inside unit is 110, the outside unit is 220v. I suspect like window units that once you crest a certain size 220 become a must. but keep in mind that the inside unit will likely always be 110 as its just powering the blower and the controls. the outside unit is where the compressor lives and might have some 110 units available just know you'll need a power source at both ends.

Power on these mini splits is all done via outside. There’s a cable that runs with the lineset

 

[dcg9381]

Can I purchase a 9000btu in 110v and simply plug it into the outside wall outlet or am I missing anything? It appears max load is under the 15a breaker for that outlet.

Assuming nothing else is on the circuit and it's rated for 15A, the max load is 12 continuous. As long as it's at or under that, you should be good in terms of "enough power".

What might not be so good is modern code requires disconnects for HVAC systems - I assume mini-splits are included in that... Doesn't mean you can't get away with just plugging into the wall outside. I would worry a little bit about long term UV exposure on the cord.

 

[ps2cho]

Assuming nothing else is on the circuit and it's rated for 15A, the max load is 12 continuous. As long as it's at or under that, you should be good in terms of "enough power".

What might not be so good is modern code requires disconnects for HVAC systems - I assume mini-splits are included in that... Doesn't mean you can't get away with just plugging into the wall outside. I would worry a little bit about long term UV exposure on the cord.

Got it, maybe best I essentially get the whole thing set up myself, test it to make sure it works and no issues then get an electrician out and have them wire it in to meet all codes. Last thing I want is selling the house and have to deal with fixing it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I doubt that a pigtail (plug) into an outside outlet would pass code. Even 120V units likely need to be hard wired (flexible conduit) to a disconnect. Many locations require a "convenience outlet" within less than 6' for the technician's vacuum pump.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Why not get a mini split for the whole house?

 

[ps2cho]

Why not get a mini split for the whole house?

Already have central air. There is just one room with computers and has exterior wall that has 115F ambient and sun on it all day and the room just roasts so it needs some supplemental cooling.

 

[CraigStu]

How about an old school window AC? You can mostly go by whatever the manufacturer builds it as 110 vs 220. When I have looked at them it was pretty apparent that up to a given size range, all brands are 110 and above they switch to 220. The manufacturers may stretch the size a little to make things above the best efficiency switchover point so the customer doesn't need to hire an electrician. But the common 15A circuit imposes it's own limit so they can't get too crazy.

 

[Hubmonkey]

If you are looking at a possible window unit, look at the Midea U-Shaped.. iTs basically a mini-split in a single unit. They are really quiet and are inverter AC units. Their small 8k unit says up to 350 sq feet.

 

[cherokee]

How about an old school window AC? You can mostly go by whatever the manufacturer builds it as 110 vs 220. When I have looked at them it was pretty apparent that up to a given size range, all brands are 110 and above they switch to 220. The manufacturers may stretch the size a little to make things above the best efficiency switchover point so the customer doesn't need to hire an electrician. But the common 15A circuit imposes it's own limit so they can't get too crazy.

We just did this last weekend. Got a "saddle" AC and put it in the window, I think $300 all in. Plugs into the wall, turn on and off when you are in there. It is in "my" room as well and for some reason gets darn hot in there, computers and amps I think. Works well, and will make that room hit 60 if you let it, I tested that.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Already have central air. There is just one room with computers and has exterior wall that has 115F ambient and sun on it all day and the room just roasts so it needs some supplemental cooling.

Perfect for a mini-split ! Shop carefully based on efficiency!

 

[jjrbus]

I am in FL with 3 minis in the house and it is a pain getting service. When they fail I am considering putting in window type AC units. As an experiment I put a LG 9500 dual inverter in my RV and it is a great unit so far, quiet, energy efficent. Look at the inverter window units.

 

[ching0n]

I doubt that a pigtail (plug) into an outside outlet would pass code. Even 120V units likely need to be hard wired (flexible conduit) to a disconnect. Many locations require a "convenience outlet" within less than 6' for the technician's vacuum pump.

Seems like some places allow the outdoor rated cables that come w/the units to be exposed? Either that or I'm seeing a lot of violations. Would be curious to know if one could get a waterproof outlet enclosure w/some sort of disconnect (may as well wire up a proper disconnect at that point and cancel the outlet.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Lots of terrible advice in this thread.

All mini-split air conditioners have to be hard-wired with proper disconnects, just like "real" air conditioners. The outside unit also needs to have a convenience receptacle nearby, if there's not already one, then you will have to install one, again just like any other air conditioner.

All air conditioners have to be on their own, dedicated circuit. You will have to run a new circuit specifically for the mini-split. If you have to install a convenience receptacle, you cannot even share circuits between the air conditioner and the convenience receptacle.

No electric arrangements are needed for the "inside" part, because the inside units are powered from the outside unit.

Question of whether to do 110V or 230V is a minor one. Do you have 2 slots available in your breaker panel? If so, consider going to 230V because the units are usually (very) slightly more efficient, and you often can use a 15A breaker with 14g wire which saves a little wire cost. If you don't have two breaker slots available, then you will need to go 120V, which might require a 20A breaker and 12G wire, but it saves you a breaker slot.