I have installed the indoor unit, nothing is connected yet. When I pour water in the pan, it's flowing alright, but there is a little upward slope right before the [correctly sloped downwards] feed-through hole in the wall, so the drain line is about 1/3" higher than it should be. There is a little water staying in the pipe (2 oz or something). Should I remove the fasteners and move the mounting plate a little higher or is ok to keep it like this ?
Mini split : condensate drain line slope
- Thread starter alga
- Start date
American Locomotive
Well-known member
It probably won't affect functionality, but the standing water could lead to mold/mildew build up that will eventually clog the condensate line.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
I guarantee it will fill with gunk over time if there is standing water. You have two options. Slope it now so water doesn't stand, or get used to the idea of flushing and cleaning the line.
I must have done something wrong in my life. We have bought quite a few properties over the years. Most of them had some real hack jobs on HVAC installs and repairs. Those drain lines are one of the big culprits. I'm sure the installers don't see it as a big issue in their short term. Good enough for now is hardly the best approach but often used.
I must have done something wrong in my life. We have bought quite a few properties over the years. Most of them had some real hack jobs on HVAC installs and repairs. Those drain lines are one of the big culprits. I'm sure the installers don't see it as a big issue in their short term. Good enough for now is hardly the best approach but often used.
The drain line has to be primary in its routing in mini-split installs. When you take the line set, power and drain line necessary to be hooked up laying off to the left and then try to close the evap onto the mounting bracket it is the perfect example of 5 lbs into a 4 lb bag. You get frustrated and push up on the lines while trying to close it and can easily get the softer drain line to move rather than the more Ridgid line set. Net result is possible trapping of water which absolutely will lead to mold/mildew/scum in the pan and grow onto the coil and fan blades. I try to switch the drain line to the left side of the evap. That gives more room for the line set and power line under the evap. Yes, you can direct the whole out the right side but if not move the drain line. Another thing I’ve seen on a number of occasions is water draining off the face of the drain pan getting thrown out into the room. Invariably it has been a wall that is not plumb and the drain pan dripping off the front. Otherwise those were good installs, but check the wall first.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I had a mini split that had a very slight upward section near the head unit which ended up clogging and leaking into the house. It was a pain in the *** to deal with after the fact. Definitely get it right now
Ok ok, I will fix it ! @Jackfre : the manual indeed instructs to switch the drain line on the same side as the hole but I have 2 problems :
1) The wall is quite thick so the end of the factory mounted tube will end up inside the wall (would be difficult to maintain in case of a leak at the junction later). 2) Since the hole will be caulked, I imagine pulling the indoor unit (a little) from its mounting plate in order to check for leak or whatever would be impossible (drain line too stretched up). Although in either case, I'm not sure how it will play out once the coolant lines are connected...
1) The wall is quite thick so the end of the factory mounted tube will end up inside the wall (would be difficult to maintain in case of a leak at the junction later). 2) Since the hole will be caulked, I imagine pulling the indoor unit (a little) from its mounting plate in order to check for leak or whatever would be impossible (drain line too stretched up). Although in either case, I'm not sure how it will play out once the coolant lines are connected...
Can’t really tell you how to go about it. I can say that in ‘14 when we re-built the house Iadded a 12k unit to the kitchen/DR. I could not get it. I was going nuts. I walked away from it for four days in a row before I was able to get it all closed up and draining correctly. Stay with it. Oh, and beer doesn‘t help…sadly!
dcg9381
Well-known member
Having done 4 of these systems, I'd say you're spot on, I'd just move the mounting plate (and indoor unit) 1/2" (or whatever higher). Beats trying to slope the hole. The holes can be tricky.
There are a number of these installs with no gravity drain path, they use a condensate pump. But you don't want that if you can avoid it.
You're creating a "trap" - and it's not ideal for slime and other build up.
There are a number of these installs with no gravity drain path, they use a condensate pump. But you don't want that if you can avoid it.
You're creating a "trap" - and it's not ideal for slime and other build up.
So you will never ever try to lift the cover to see if everything is still fine under the hood ?
duneslider
Well-known member
Just to add, make sure you add a calendar reminder to regular check the drain line and make sure it is draining. Super common for these to get plugged up and then leak causing damage. If you regularly check it and make sure it is working you will avoid damage and extra work.
@duneslider : how easy is it to lift the unit if the drain line is plugged on the same side and the opposite side of the hole ?