Mini split control cable

[Ska23]

Good morning All,
Im currently installing a dual mini split system and have a few questions about the control wire installation. I been doing carpentry for many years but have limited knowledge with HVAC wiring. Ive seen most of the control cable tied to the line set inside the line hide but heard that isn’t code compliant and that it needs to be inside conduit.
Does the wire have to be in conduit when ran on the outside of the wall and if so do you peel the sheathing back before you snake it through the conduit?
Does the wire in the attic have to be in conduit as well? Or can i run that portion of the wire just like NM?
In addition I’m installing an air handler on the far side of the house and would like to know if I should route the line set and control wire inside the wall and up into the attic? It’s a tight 90degree turn. I would drill a 2 1/4” hole in the double plate for the line set and control wire. I would run the drain inside the wall and pop it out at the bottom. Has anyone done or seen this? Not sure how else to run the line set and control wire with out cutting two holes in the siding to make that return into the attic. It wouldn’t be to eye appealing! Thanks in advance.

 

[rlitman]

It depends. If you're using Romex, it isn't code compliant at all, because Romex shouldn't be used in wet locations. UF can be protected in conduit where it needs to be (outdoors), but the line hide isn't acceptable for that, so far as I know.

However, they make a cable that does not require conduit (depending on your AHJ). It's a sunlight resistant tray cable sold just for mini splits.

Here's an example (if 14AWG works for your unit):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW2B6PI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ska23]

Thanks for responding. Can the cable you recommended be installed in the line hide with out conduit?

 

[rlitman]

Thanks for responding. Can the cable you recommended be installed in the line hide with out conduit?

Yes. The line hide is immaterial. You either hide it or not. Your choice. Though keeping the UV off of your lineset insulation is a good idea, it's not an actual requirement.

 

[Firebrick43]

Are you talking about the line from head to outside unit or the power to the outside unit?

If the power, I do believe it needs to have a disconnect and should be in conduit or through the wall directly. The disconnect needs to be readily accessible and within sight from the outside compressor unit. NEC 440.14

 

[Ska23]

The head to the outside unit. So it will have a couple of feet exposed from the line hide to the condenser.

 

[Firebrick43]

The cable that RLitman posted appears to be the correct cable. It is covered by section 336.10 and Should be TC-ER or TC-ER-JP. This stands for Tray cable exposed run joist pull. The joist pull part is if you are running through holes drilled in studs/joist. I can not see those letters on the picture but one of the asked questions state that it is TC-ER-JP.

Cable needs not be in a conduit/raceway but states

The cable is installed in industrial establishments where the conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation.
The cable is continuously supported and protected against physical damage using mechanical protection such as struts, angles, or channels.

and allows for this exception
Exception to (7): Where not subject to physical damage, Type TC-ER shall be permitted to transition between cable trays and between cable trays and utilization equipment or devices for a distance not to exceed 1.8 m (6 ft) without continuous support. The cable shall be mechanically supported where exiting the cable tray to ensure that the minimum bending radius is not exceeded.

I would probably put some kind of light weight protection just to keep the uv light off of it

 

[brewchief]

I have used the honeywell wire but we now use southwire ez in. It's a coated metal clad cable, pretty sure the same as teck 90 that's common in Canada.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Ska23]

I would prefer the ez in southwire but it goes from 50ft to 250ft. Nothing in between

 

[rlitman]

...I would probably put some kind of light weight protection just to keep the uv light off of it

"Direct Burial Sunlight Resistant" is printed on the jacket.
It's basically special made for this purpose.

For my first mini-split, I ran LFMC from the disconnect to the unit, and from the unit to the wall, and EMT inside, with THWN pulled everywhere. It was surprisingly easy, due to the simple path of that particular install. On my next one, I was SO glad I had the tray cable, because I was snaking it in a way to hide it in the wall, and really couldn't have made it work any other way.

I would prefer the ez in southwire but it goes from 50ft to 250ft. Nothing in between

The metal armored stuff is nice, but it's got a relatively large minimum bend radius, so you're not going to be able to sneak it in line hide.

 

[Firebrick43]

"Direct Burial Sunlight Resistant" is printed on the jacket.
It's basically special made for this purpose.

For my first mini-split, I ran LFMC from the disconnect to the unit, and from the unit to the wall, and EMT inside, with THWN pulled everywhere. It was surprisingly easy, due to the simple path of that particular install. On my next one, I was SO glad I had the tray cable, because I was snaking it in a way to hide it in the wall, and really couldn't have made it work any other way.



The metal armored stuff is nice, but it's got a relatively large minimum bend radius, so you're not going to be able to sneak it in line hide.

Yes, PVC conduit is supposed to be as well but it will still get brittle after a 15 years or so. Resistant not proof

 

[SALIV8]

This is what I used. I’m not a fan of tray cable outdoors.

https://www.ferguson.com/product/so...ielded-mini-split-cable-s59351203/_/R-7055082

 

[Ska23]

Any advice for running the line set for the init on the opposite side of the house?it was the last question in the beginning of the thread.

 

[Ska23]

What type of wire connectors did you use to connect the Honeywell (tray cable ) to the condenser and air handler.

 

[rlitman]

Any advice for running the line set for the init on the opposite side of the house?it was the last question in the beginning of the thread.

Running a lineset through a tight 90 is a bad idea. So is, running the drain further than it needs to. Even if the compressor cannot be sited near the air handler (be careful about lineset length requirements here), the drain is best kept short and relying on gravity. Long horizontal runs lead to low spots that will freeze or clog. Don't do it.

What type of wire connectors did you use to connect the Honeywell (tray cable ) to the condenser and air handler.

My older unit had plain screw terminals, so I crimped rings on my stranded THWN,
My newer units have the square washers under the screws that work directly with whatever wire you use. Mini-split cable is solid, so it is super easy to terminate.

Or are you asking about the jacket? An NM clamp works just fine.

 

[Ska23]

The drain is t the problem, that can go right through the side of the house down the siding and out. Ill hide it in line hide so it looks neat. My problem is routing the line set. The easiest path is right ip to the attic and meet right above the room where the sir handler is. Im just not sure the best way the get to the line set pipes to meet.
The question for the cable was in reference to the jacket. What type of weather proof connectors.

 

[rlitman]

The drain is t the problem, that can go right through the side of the house down the siding and out. Ill hide it in line hide so it looks neat. My problem is routing the line set. The easiest path is right ip to the attic and meet right above the room where the sir handler is. Im just not sure the best way the get to the line set pipes to meet.
The question for the cable was in reference to the jacket. What type of weather proof connectors.

When you see the way the unit works by taking the cover off the electrical compartment, you'll understand how weather proof is not the issue. You just need rain tight, which means that all wires need to exit downwards from their boxes.

Most electric inlets to mini-splits are a cover with a gasket that's surprisingly open at the bottom. If you're as **** about these things as me, you'll want a squeeze connector. The style with the flat slot for romex won't work, but one with a round hole should.

 

[Ska23]

Anyone know where to purchase 14/4 TC-ER-JP over 50’? I need approximately 65’.

 

[rlitman]

Anyone know where to purchase 14/4 TC-ER-JP over 50’? I need approximately 65’.

Ugh, your lineset is going to be 65'? I think you need to reconsider your plans.

 

[Ska23]

The installation manual states its good up to 80’