Mini split lineset question

[Cue]

New install of a 18K mini split, the included lines are 13 feet, but its only about 8 feet from the inside unit to the outside unit. The line is looped one time behind the condenser as seen in the picture. I know this isnt a good idea but don't know what to do about it? If cut and re flared the lines would be too short for the system I was told, and there doesnt seem to be enough line to run them back in forth in a serpentine pattern. Any ideas what should be done?

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

This should have simply been taken care of in the tailoring stage before hooking up, like adjusting the the wheel and chain lash on a bicycle or motorcycle before tightening the axle nut. The outside unit a little further away from the window 1.5ft and the inside evap mounted 1.5ft further down the wall. Would have been that simple and can still be done and should be before the copper gets too stiff with age in that looped position. Just make sure the unit is shut down and warmed up to ambient temperature so the lines are not brittle from the cold refrigerant and have about 4 people help with the strongest supporting the unit line connection from stress while all the others slowly message knead bend the line set strait as the unit is moves down away taking up all but a little slack. You also should have placed the line set inside the siding within the insulation at the top coming out at the bottom. No big deal but it would not only look cleaner but kept a large portion of the line protected from weathering, but too late now unless your going to pump-down, disconnect, re-flair/braze, vacuum. I hope you pulled a vacuum and did not allow air contamination in that unit.

 

[Cue]

The outside unit and inside unit could not be moved, they only fit exactly in one place, the condenser is on stand mounted to the wall off the ground. The freon has not been let out yet of the pre charged system so the lines can be disconnected if needed. They were vacuumed but thats it so far. not sure what you mean by putting them behind the siding? Install them in a insulated wall? Dont see how you could do that without tearing all the drywall out from the inside as these lines are pre-made and insulated. I have a plastic cover for the lineset when its done which is how most systems are put in from what I have seen.

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

From your answer it sounds like you can objectively reasoned enough of the additional problems, to figure out a solution. After all your there and on scene, who better to figure it all out. Good Luck and post all the work arounds and minefields so other can benefit. .

 

[walrus]

The lines have to be 13 ft? You can't cut and flare them? Not an issue with Fujitsu or Mits, they come in standard lengths and you cut and flare them to whatever length you need.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I wouldn't recommend trying to move the outdoor unit with the lines connected, period. Soft line sets are suppose to be unrolled, not stretched straight. Pulling it straight is a great way to kink the lines, or worse, break off a service valve or flare connection.

Tommy

 

[Cue]

I was told the system has a minimum length of 10 feet so they cant be cut and flared. I called the manufacturer and they told me to leave it the way that it is, but everything I have read says it shouldn't be coiled.

 

[Rockhead261]

I was told the system has a minimum length of 10 feet so they cant be cut and flared. I called the manufacturer and they told me to leave it the way that it is, but everything I have read says it shouldn't be coiled.

I've been installing mini splits since they came to be. Early instructions from every manufacturer stated minimum lengths, do not cut/braze/etc. Keep in mind - a mini split condensor can be mounted literally inches (wall thickness) from the evaporator. It was common to see coils of excess tubing behind units like the OP has.

In short, the liquid line on the set acts as a metering device. Too short or long and you'll get poor performance - with the factory charge. A learned tech can easily adjust refrigerant levels via superheat to compensate for too little or too much pipe. Lazy installers would simply use the included lineset, coil the excess, open the service valves, and cash their checks.

I say do a clean installation with just the amount of tubing needed, use flare connections, and charge by superheat FTW.

OP, don't worry about that small amount of coiled tubing - it's not hurting anything.

 

[Trey T]

I don't see any reason why tubing rolled like that is any of a concerns. If you don't care for the look, leave it alone. Vacuum and then release the refrigerant.

If you want to shorten it, cut it and correct the refrigerant level.

 

[monkeyspanners]

Could you run the lineset left as it comes out the wall, then down, then right to get to the connections on the outdoor unit?

 

[Cue]

Could you run the lineset left as it comes out the wall, then down, then right to get to the connections on the outdoor unit?

I could do that, may have to give that a try

 

[Idle Serge]

I had to do the same with my 25ft line set:



Been going all summer without any hiccups:

 

[Jackfre]

Fujitsu, which is the only one I am familiar with as to the specifics of the line sets say that if you are to close you can lay the line set off, not on a coil, but in a serpentine manner. Back and forth in other words. The coil will trap oil and create problems according to Fujitsu Tech.

If you choose to re-pipe the unit you will have to recover the refrigerant and weigh in the correct factory charge. The real goal of the manuf has been to maximize the line-set length. I think that is a part of the reason they have the minimums

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

And once a system has a compressor failure due to and resulting from system contamination, that line-set and other supposedly unaffected hydraulic components can never be completely cleaned and have been known to spread the contamination like a disease to replacement components resulting in more problems. No loops, no hoops, no hoop-de-doo's.