As far as I'm aware, they are all essentially the same in terms of the installation process, which is why I was puzzled by your question. Fujitsu (and Friedrich) seems to be the most flexible in terms of lineset lengths and the need to adjust the charge. The factory charge will cover 10-16 ft (whatever the min spec is on the unit) all the way up to 50-60 ft. So if you don't want to deal with weighing in extra charge (and the hassle of obtaining R410) or calling someone in to recover refrigerant for a short run, that might make things easier. By contrast I think LG needs to be adjusted for anything outside 20-30 ft. But my info is a little old, maybe that's changed. I don't think there is any other differentiating feature from a DIYer's perspective that makes one easier to install vs. another.
Mini Split = Who has done DIY Install
- Thread starter mobiledynamics
- Start date
As far as I'm aware, they are all essentially the same in terms of the installation process, which is why I was puzzled by your question. Fujitsu (and Friedrich) seems to be the most flexible in terms of lineset lengths and the need to adjust the charge. The factory charge will cover 10-16 ft (whatever the min spec is on the unit) all the way up to 50-60 ft. So if you don't want to deal with weighing in extra charge (and the hassle of obtaining R410) or calling someone in to recover refrigerant for a short run, that might make things easier. By contrast I think LG needs to be adjusted for anything outside 20-30 ft. But my info is a little old, maybe that's changed. I don't think there is any other differentiating feature from a DIYer's perspective that makes one easier to install vs. another.
sands35
Well-known member
JakeKohl
Well-known member
nonhog
Well-known member
Hard to get a straight answer from professionals, I've tried. They always come back with you need a heat pump system. (easy out) They may not be wrong however I've had 4 companies come out for bids. And the first 3 were all very different. Yet to hear back from the 4th.
I have an unconditioned 15x15 atrium, with glass roof/ceiling. It'll be a compromise no matter how I go about it. Pretty sure I'll start with a mini split in the atrium, installed mostly by yours truly
.Heck I'm near Seattle I don't need the whole house with A/C.
Still have wood heat and my Propane furnace for my winter needs. DIY= WIN.
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I am also looking at the Senville Aura model. Anyone have an experience using them?
Also, is it less efficient to run up to 23 feet as opposed to shorter? I talked to an installer and he said he wouldn't do it.
coolreed
Well-known member
I put a Mitsubishi Mini Spilt Heat Pump in my garage a few weeks ago. I posted it on the garage journal. It is not very difficult to install. You need to understand basic home wiring and follow manufacturers instructions.
However, in order to have a warranty you must have a licensed HVAC pull a vacuum on the line before opening up the refrigurant valves. Mine is an 18,000 BTU Hyper Heat unit. My garage is 900 sqaure feet and it works very well.
The Mitsubishi web page recommended a much larger unit. My research revealed the proper size I needed. Home Depot is marketing Mitsubishi's now and I received a quote from them of $5,000 and it was not as good a unit as my Hyper Heat. I purchased mine online and I have a total of about $3000 in it. I spent a little extra on materials for a clean installation.
Worth every penny of it.
However, in order to have a warranty you must have a licensed HVAC pull a vacuum on the line before opening up the refrigurant valves. Mine is an 18,000 BTU Hyper Heat unit. My garage is 900 sqaure feet and it works very well.
The Mitsubishi web page recommended a much larger unit. My research revealed the proper size I needed. Home Depot is marketing Mitsubishi's now and I received a quote from them of $5,000 and it was not as good a unit as my Hyper Heat. I purchased mine online and I have a total of about $3000 in it. I spent a little extra on materials for a clean installation.
Worth every penny of it.
tlfoster38
Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Messages
- 22
I installed a 30K Mr Slim with two air handlers about a year ago, an 18K for the 24x28 garage and a 15K for the bonus room above the garage. I had a friend who has his own HVAC company to hook up and test the lines. I'm very pleased with the performance of the system.
Attachments
I DIY'd mine with the help of a friend. I ran all the electrical, mounted the unit and had everything ready. He's a building manager so he had the equipment for correct line flares and pulled the vacuum for me. Took 1/2 day of work to get it all done-up.
LJ inverter 11500 / Heat pump - Ran the power lines from the breaker box to the outside unit / mounted the unit via bracket to foundation wall (drilled thru the concrete) / mounted the inside unit bracket - scariest part was drilling the 3 inch hole thru the house! / Had a professional HVAC friend hook to the 220 breaker / wire according to code the inside and out side unit / drop the inside unit into place and cut and flare the fittings install and adjust the charge. He charged me $300.00
These units are very inexpensive in Central America, every one uses them. Even after calculating the exchange to $$$$ the price are typically much lower than the US.
Has any one use this model....Very good price, comparing them to the other brands
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095V0OYM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Has any one use this model....Very good price, comparing them to the other brands
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095V0OYM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I saw that model as well, but for me the SEER is too low. I'm going to be using mine to heat my house also. Check out Senville Aura at sogoodtobuy.com, I've read decent things about them, not much out there for reviews. I'm just about the order one, trying to figure out where to mount the damn thing, so I can figure out the length of lineset I need.
Does anyone know if 21 ft is to far? I asked an installer and he said he wouldn't do it. Its rated up to 25 feet, but does that mean I will lose much of the efficiency? Keeping to 13 feet is hard for me, unless I want it right in front of my house, besiide the main entrance (which I don't). Anyone ever mount theirs on a roof? I have a great spot right on the chimney which is above my garage, it would be lower than the roof line, but I read there may be too much wind for it up there.
Albiemanmike
Well-known member
I have a brick house. Built in 1850 so the walls are very thick I think they are double brick thickness? Can a minisplit system be installed in this type of home? How much equipment must pass from the outside unit to the inside unit that gets mounted high on the wall? We currently have a NG furnace which is pretty new 2008 but we have a radon problem in the basement. We just bought the house in august and we knew about the radon but we were given bad information about radon remediation. Seems radon cannot just be exhausted from the basement as we were advised. I guess you have to rip out the slab in the basement and lay down minimum 18" of gravel then re-pour the slab with the radon piping installed under the new slab. The system ducting is really bad with many gaping leaks so we are pretty concerned about blowing radon all over the house. So the wife was talking to an engineer who is a radon expert today at a party she was catering and he mentioned all of the above information. He also mentioned the Mitsubishi units as being #1 and highly recommended them. So now we are looking at alternatives to ripping up the basement and spending huge sums of money on something we had not planned on. Will one of these units sufficiently heat an 1850 Sq. Ft. home? Not too worried about cooling but that would be a bonus. These units/systems are completely new to me so I am in the research mode.
Anyone have the Fujitsu 15RLS2H or any other 18000 BTU system that can tell me the approximate sq footage they heat with? So far I figured my 1300 sq feet home would be fine, but I called younits.com and asked the guy on the phone and basically what he was saying it I would need 66000 btu!
Also, does anyone have any experience with younits.com or greendroplet.com ? They have great prices, until I have to pay an extra $500 in taxes and brokerage fees getting it across the border. I'm in Canada and Fujitsu can only be installed by a dealer, much more expensive.
I was going to try out a Senville unit, but for a $1k more I think the Fujitsu is the way to go I think.
Also, does anyone have any experience with younits.com or greendroplet.com ? They have great prices, until I have to pay an extra $500 in taxes and brokerage fees getting it across the border. I'm in Canada and Fujitsu can only be installed by a dealer, much more expensive.
I was going to try out a Senville unit, but for a $1k more I think the Fujitsu is the way to go I think.
You need to get a certified heat loss for your 1300 sq ft home. I'm currently installing a 15RLS2 in my new addition. Your 2H model will produce between 3,100-18,400 btu of cooling & 3,100-23,900 btu of heat. This unit is rated down to -15*, meaning it will provide 15kbtu at that -15*
Again, I must acknowledge my bias as I represented Fujitsu in a six state area for 12 years. I think you will find that the specified unit will do an excellent job, but I also think it exceedingly optomistic that a 15kbtu unit will do the whole job. You are going to need supplemental heating. A proper heat loss will help you make the right choices, and with that heat loss we can tell you precisely what to do
Well I got my Senville Aura installed and so far its heating my whole house, its not too cold yet mind you but I'm happy so far.
Just wondering what the cost of hooking up the lineset, vacuuming, and charging the lines should cost? I paid an HVAC installer $250 cash. I may have to go back to him and get an invoice, as the warranty card is asking for it, however the warranty card did ask for his name and HVAC license number, which I provided.
Just wondering what the cost of hooking up the lineset, vacuuming, and charging the lines should cost? I paid an HVAC installer $250 cash. I may have to go back to him and get an invoice, as the warranty card is asking for it, however the warranty card did ask for his name and HVAC license number, which I provided.
mygarageone
Well-known member
I would like to know how you DIYers are getting this equip ? They won't sell any type of refrigeration equipment here unless you are certified .
I wouldn't want to be the guy talking to the EPA about why he sold to anyone who came in the door.
I wouldn't want to be the guy talking to the EPA about why he sold to anyone who came in the door.
You need to be better informed about what the EPA does and does not allow. These supply houses have nothing to fear from the EPA, they choose not to sell to non-tradespeople. The easy way around that is purchase your tools, supplies and equipment online. And that's not illegal either.
hurstscrambler
Member
I've never been carded for equipment, but certainty for refrigerant. Any supplier that doesn't collect license information from refrigerant purchasers certainly does have something to fear from the EPA, on line or otherwise. Pre-charged equipment, I'm really not sure about.
I put a Mitsubishi Mini Spilt Heat Pump in my garage a few weeks ago. I posted it on the garage journal. It is not very difficult to install. You need to understand basic home wiring and follow manufacturers instructions.
However, in order to have a warranty you must have a licensed HVAC pull a vacuum on the line before opening up the refrigurant valves. Mine is an 18,000 BTU Hyper Heat unit. My garage is 900 sqaure feet and it works very well.
The Mitsubishi web page recommended a much larger unit. My research revealed the proper size I needed. Home Depot is marketing Mitsubishi's now and I received a quote from them of $5,000 and it was not as good a unit as my Hyper Heat. I purchased mine online and I have a total of about $3000 in it. I spent a little extra on materials for a clean installation.
Worth every penny of it.
My husband and I are planning to install the same unit. We haven't yet purchased it, so I don't have installation manual. Did you use 10 gauge wire or 12? Since the LRA is 16.1, and that exceeds 80% of the capacity of a 12 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit, do I need to size up to 10 gauge? Also the wire from the panel to the disconnect will be about 35 feet, so would 10 gauge wire be better so that I don't have problems with voltage drop?
Thanks.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
A dedicated HVAC circuit can be wired at more than 80% of the circuit rating because the peak loads are very short and predictable (usually only at startup). The manuals can usually be found in several places online...I don't know exactly which unit you are looking at (be sure to get the correct manual)...but you can find them from this site:
https://www.expresshvac.com/res_systems/ductless/mitsubishi/hvac_mszfd09na.asp
or this site:
http://carefreeair.com/cf_products/mitsubishi-mr-slim-hyper-heating-heat-pump-wall-mounted-system/
There are several others.
parksplace5454
New member
I am new to this forum.. this is a great thread. I have a question I am hoping someone can help me with. I am completing the installation of a 4-zone LG mini split system and am nearing the point of pressurizing and checking for leaks (I have rented the Nitrogen bottle). Once leak free, I plan to bring in an HVAC tech to finish with pulling a vacuum and releasing the R410A (and adding a little). There are two ports on my LG to accomplish this... one is the 3/8" line and the other is the 1/4" line. Can anyone tell me which of the two to use for pressurizing the system (see photo). I have watched a ton of videos and none of them really answer that question and I don't want to screw this up.
Thanks
Thanks
