Mini Splits w/ hyper; Panasonic, Daikin, Mr Cool...

[Retlaw 66]

These are lower cost than the preferred Mitsubishi and Fujitsu units. Which is a good budget choice?
My list so far, single zone, 12k btu, all with hyper heat, price high-low:
Mitsubishi MZFH12NAH, 26.1 seer, $2073
Fujitsu RLS3H, 29.3 seer, $1840
Gree Sapphire,30.5 seer, $1836
Panasonic Exterios XE, 26.2 seer, XE12SKUA, $1600
Daikin Aurora 20 seer, FTX12NMVJU + RXL12QMVJU, $1496
Mr Cool Oasis Hyper heat (with line set), $1356

The Panasonic is at a great price point, right in the middle.

Most likely a DIY install, which would void the warranty. Although I could have the final pumpdown/signoff for a warranty done by a contractor for an extra $475.... at what point is the extra $$ for a warranty worthwhile?

This unit would be for my house, central LR/DR/Kit. Been using wood stove for heat, I barely use A/C. Tough to justify a high cost unit considering low usage.
Thanks for any guidance.

 

[yeldogt]

So you are not going to use it for heat .. if you are .... you should get one that will provide heat at the cold temps in PA. What's your backup for the wood stove? Don't know how old you are or how long with the wood .. gets old quick ... I hated using wood at my cabin on the weekends. You may be tougher than I. With PA electric rates it will matter.

For AC only -- it's a different situation. They all work .. it just seems that the Mitsubishi have fewer problems. Mitsubishi has been building the low temp models for a long time .. the others are newer to the game. I did a Fujitsu about 4 years ago -- it's a fine unit ...not to the level of the Mitsubishi ...but very good. The mitsubishi model you reference is the best head with the split output and eye ... it's very nice ... I did a system 2 years ago with it and thats what I am using in my new build.

I also have an LG art cool in my small studio from 2006 -- no problems. LG has had issues from what I hear ?? The mister cool units with recharged are an interesting idea -- the heads are ugly and they never seem to be the best units ... did not know they had a hyper. How cold will it give full output?

 

[Retlaw 66]

Primary use would be heat, for when I'm not around to feed the wood stove (while at work or out for the day). So the mini split would be used part time.
House has oil/hot air which I don't use anymore as the wood stove is fine for the central area of the house that I use. Been using wood for past 10 years, I'm 55.

AC will be used to keep the house under 85. So maybe 1-2 weeks during the summer.

I haven't found full specs on the Mr Cool Oasis Hyper. That makes comparisons tough.

 

[Retlaw 66]

The mister cool units with precharged are an interesting idea ... did not know they had a hyper. How cold will it give full output?

The user manual says the operating temperature is 5-86*F for heating operation. That's the same as their DIY, Advantage, Oasis ES and Premier series... there's nothing 'hyper' about these specs. Maybe it's a misprint. There's no mention of the % output at those temps.
No precharged lines on this 'hyper' series, only on the DIY series.

 

[yeldogt]

The user manual says the operating temperature is 5-86*F for heating operation. That's the same as their DIY, Advantage, Oasis ES and Premier series... there's nothing 'hyper' about these specs. Maybe it's a misprint. There's no mention of the % output at those temps.
No precharged lines on this 'hyper' series, only on the DIY series.

Almost all the mini-splits will work down in cold temps -- it's all about the output at those levels. The better hypers come with a pan heater to keep ice out of the condenser.

There must be chart someplace that gives the output numbers at a given temp .... We have had very cold temps in PA the past 5 years. So ... having a system work at 5 degrees is important ... but, you have other systems to provide heat.

I only asked you age because i know lost of people who think wood is fine at 30 .. but in a few years the work and mess is too much .. sounds like you are the exception.

 

[ticklechicken]

Most likely a DIY install, which would void the warranty. Although I could have the final pumpdown/signoff for a warranty done by a contractor for an extra $475.... at what point is the extra $$ for a warranty worthwhile?

$475 is about double what others on here are paying. You should call around.

When I bought mime form an online retailer, I asked them if there were any installers near me. They put me in touch with a local guy who did the evac/charge for $100.